DiyLightAnimation
Hardware => Lynx Smart String => Topic started by: therealbigjim on December 09, 2011,
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I saw a SanDevices hub for RBG control and it had common car style fuses. Is there a reason ( I know there is) but it would be much easer then the tiny green fuses that are there now.
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Also have seen the Sandevices RGB controller, I think the first reason for using the little fuse in the hub is to save space. When you deal with DC voltages, you really have to be careful about the polarity of the connectors and wires. You have to double check your connections before applying any voltages.
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The thing is, theoretically speaking, you should almost never need to replace a fuse in the hub. The fuses protect you against user errors and the very rare issue with a string. They are also really cheap and don't take up much space. Adding a socket for just about any type of fuse is going to add to the board real estate and significantly increase the cost as 16 are required...
RM
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I started putting the fuses on the back of my 2nd hub, if need replacing - much easier to get to vs next to the cat5 connector....
Myk
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Just wait till your cables get wet and within hours crosion starts (the dongles are not water tight) and then SHORTs occur and BAM fuses start to blow. Theory is great until reality sets in.
Solution, grab some press n sean and wrap all connections! Not an absolute gurantee but adds another layer of protection.
The thing is, theoretically speaking, you should almost never need to replace a fuse in the hub. The fuses protect you against user errors and the very rare issue with a string. They are also really cheap and don't take up much space. Adding a socket for just about any type of fuse is going to add to the board real estate and significantly increase the cost as 16 are required...
RM
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I started putting the fuses on the back of my 2nd hub, if need replacing - much easier to get to vs next to the cat5 connector....
Myk
I would think it would be harder to solder them back in if you had to replace one and put the soldering iron between the cat5 connectors.
I like the idea of the auto fuse holder though, wouldn't think they would add that much space wise to the board, although looking at mouser, could add to the price quite a bit, since you need 16 of them.
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I have replaced several fuses. Was not a problem at all although some long needle nose pliers help to remove and replace the fuse between the cat 5 connectors. Once again I am thankful that I have the Radio Shack desoldering tool.
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Solution, grab some press n sean and wrap all connections! Not an absolute gurantee but adds another layer of protection.
What is press n seam?
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Solution, grab some press n sean and wrap all connections! Not an absolute gurantee but adds another layer of protection.
What is press n seam?
My guess was press n seal plastic wrap
eh
Rick R.
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Never heard of it. It sounds worth checking into from the revies on Amazon. I will by a box to try and see ifit looks like a better solution than plasti-dip for me for next year.
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Solution, grab some press n sean and wrap all connections! Not an absolute gurantee but adds another layer of protection.
What is press n seam?
Sorry, My fat fingers.
Yes, I meant Press n Seal
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Now that my display is down, I am going to replace all of the fuses in my hub (9 of 16 are fried). I looked at auto fuses first, but then I thought resettable fuses might be even better. I was going to use this device:
http://www.littelfuse.com/products/Resettable+PTCs/Radial+Leaded/16R/16R500G.html (http://www.littelfuse.com/products/Resettable+PTCs/Radial+Leaded/16R/16R500G.html)
...which is available from Mouser for just 2 cents more than the fuse specified in the Wiki.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=16R500G (http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=16R500G)
Can anyone foresee any problems with using this part?
Matt
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I'm interested to see how this develops... I didn't have any fuses blown, but I know many did. A resettable fuse would be a slick enhancement...
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Was not aware something like this existed, looks like a great idea.
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How do you reset those fuses?
-Rimist(http://www.vixenlights.com/sig/sig_h.php/20/20.gif)
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I googled how they work, it is some kind of polymer that expands when heated as more and more current goes through it, once it gets too hot the current stops flowing. Once it cools, it just starts working on its own.
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Cool
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before I assemble 12 LE units, and repair my active hubs I would love to know if this will work.
is anyone up to investigating?
I am wondering, though... as the part cools, and power is again restored: will safety be a problem if current is reintroduced over and again -- even if the time before the next 'trip' is short? in the applications that use this part, is the expectation that the short is quickly fixed?
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before I assemble 12 LE units, and repair my active hubs I would love to know if this will work.
is anyone up to investigating?
I am wondering, though... as the part cools, and power is again restored: will safety be a problem if current is reintroduced over and again -- even if the time before the next 'trip' is short? in the applications that use this part, is the expectation that the short is quickly fixed?
The failure mode I experienced with my smart strings was that a node would get wet and spark and burn resulting in a permanent short until the string was repaired. Plugging the failed string into any other socket on the hub would cause another fuse to blow. The resettable fuse still won't prevent a node from burning, but it should safely prevent having to replace hub fuses after such an event.
Btw, they are commonly used in PCs.
Matt
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Interesting.....I think I have many blow fuses also.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Think about it guys, The resettable fuse does not trip and then stay off until the short is fixed. It cools down and applies power again.
Now go look at the fuse charts for trip times. How long will the fuse keep power applied at say 6 amps? 8 amps? 10 amps?
Ok so lets think it through you have a short for 10amps and it keeps power on while the fuse heats. Then the fuse trips and cools ver quickly as they have little mass. It then applies the power again but leave it on while it heats which takes longer than cooling. It then trips to do this again.
Meanwhile the plastic RJ45 jack and plugs rated at about 5 amps are starting to melt or catch fire, the wire is burning an shorting even more.
This is not good imagine you are not there and this happens.
Now the fuse will trip after a time (does not mean node will not burn as this is what is doing the fuse in) and then no power is put back on circuit until intervention of the user to rectify the issue. Yes this also means changing the fuse.
These are great for certain things but not as safty for this type of setup. When you blow a fuse you should have blown a fuse. Circuit breakers are a different thing and they would work but they are way to costly and most do not like harsh enviroments.
Safety should always out weight convienance.
RJ