DiyLightAnimation
Hardware => Lynx Smart String => Topic started by: IndianaChristmas on February 12, 2012,
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I have hooked up my rectangular modules and have some issues.
1. I was amazed at how quickly and how warm these things get. They weren't too hot to touch but the do get warm. Is that normal?
2. Secondly, the issue I have is that when I use the SS Utility to set the parameters for the controller, I get blinky but the first 7-10 will blink white, the next 5-6 will blink red, the next couple will be barely lit red and the remainder have no light. Short? Bad module? The reason for #1? I bought these modules last summer when the first opportunity to buy them was announced.
Thanks,
Eric
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Eric,
Most likely the module just before one that blinks red (or any color that isn't white like the first ones) is bad. Start by cutting that one out and splicing the rest in. I have the strings and even those get a bit warm but if you have a bad module it will get a little warmer than the rest is they usually draw more power. One more thing did you change the resistors in your SS controllers to the 150 ohm ones? http://diylightanimation.com/index.php?topic=5535.0 If your modules seem to be getting really warm (hot) shut them off as you may be drawing to much current through them due to a shorted module.
I have hooked up my rectangular modules and have some issues.
1. I was amazed at how quickly and how warm these things get. They weren't too hot to touch but the do get warm. Is that normal?
2. Secondly, the issue I have is that when I use the SS Utility to set the parameters for the controller, I get blinky but the first 7-10 will blink white, the next 5-6 will blink red, the next couple will be barely lit red and the remainder have no light. Short? Bad module? The reason for #1? I bought these modules last summer when the first opportunity to buy them was announced.
Thanks,
Eric
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Thanks for the feedback.
I have put the 150 ohm resistors in my ssc's.
I already thought about removing possible bad modules and will do that.
Just one other observation. I didn't notice this with my nodes as they aren't as warm as my modules but I noticed that they get warm with out blinky, simply having them plugged into a powered hub makes them warm. Does this mean they draw power even when not lit? If so then unlike dumb LED these will consume power 24 hr a day if the power supply is running. If so do folks run around turning off/on their power supplies each day? I would guess electric bills go up with these lights more than dumb LED's.
Thanks,
Eric
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Simple answer = Yes.
Many folks here leave all there controllers on 24-7 including there show computers. I turn all my controllers off every night after the show is over and then shut off my show computer then due the opposite when I get ready to start my show. There are pro's and con's for each and I am sure RJ could spend an hour talking about it with great technical detail but I gues in the end it is what works for you. The only benefit I could see to keeping controllers on 24-7 would be that they would stay warm and would not be likely to have moisture condense on them as one that was cold might. I have not had any problems like that even up here SE Michigan so that has been my experience.
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Power is always present on the 12v+ regardless of what channels are on/off/dim.
the control signals on pins 1+2 are used by the chip to apply that power to the LEDs.
When the pixels are on/dim they consume power. when off, the power usage is very low.
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my plastic rectangles have never gotten hot
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The info about hot, not hot, etc should be add added to the troubleshooting section of the wiki imho
-Rimist (via Tapatalk)
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If it is getting noticeably warm with the nodes off, I'd be a little concerned. The power draw with them off should be very low, and not generate much heat. However, if they have been on for a bit, it may take some time to cool down.
I turn everything off at night, the power up and test about an hour before the show starts each day. I don't like leaving things on and plugged in if not in use...
RM
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I am just now getting in some rectangular modules, (100 of them), and started testing.
Here is what i have done.
1.) Built SSC's
2.) Loaded Test Firmware
3.) Took jumper off
4.) tested 20 nodes
5.) Experienced white lockup.
6.) Changed Resistor:)
7.) Now I see color change, but what happens is that some of the end modules do not change to the same color:( All nodes change to different colors, all change to white when supposed too. It is just the colors. They do not all change to the same color.
Is this a bad node?
Mike.
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Maybe. However, I'd try reflashing test firmware if you haven't since you replaced resistor. Might luck out. I had a similar issue once.
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Thanks,
I will try that and post what has happened!!
Mike
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I know this sounds silly but make sure the free end isn't shorted. For my nodes the free end had bare wires. I discovered this issue and my problems went away. I did loose the very last module in my set of 20.
Eric
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Well, I reflashed the ssr and made sure that nothing was shorted and still have some different colored modules.
So, to trouble shoot, do I just go to the end of where the lights all match and cut out the next module and then connect the rest of the modules back together?
Is there anything magic about trouble shooting them?
Any advice would be appreciated.
I purchased 100 Modules from Ray in strings of 20 and would love to figure out which ones are bad and work with Ray to get them replaced.
Mike.'
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I find that more times then not the bad one is the last one that has correct color. It is usually displaying correct color but the output from that one is bad causing leds from that point on to display wrong color. A good test is to cut the wire immediately after last one with correct color. Connect a smart string controller to modules after cut. If they display correct color the bad one is the one before cut. If the remaining ones display bad colors then it most likely is one after the cut.
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I am still testing my initial batch of 100 rectangle pixels and was wondering what failure rate people are seeing?
I am over 10 percent.
mike
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I found that if you leave them on all white. The failing modules usually act up by them selves after a couple minutes.
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With these various (partial) failure modes, anomolously hot modules, etc I would always try a quick check of the current, the voltage at the head of the string, and the voltage at the tail of the string (with white and with all off), before cutting any modules, and report those results too.
Then you know whether to focus first on power or on data. Not that there can't be strange cases which are harder to troubleshoot, but it's good to zoom in first on the most likely things.
And of course you have a major advantage with 5 strings of 20 - you can plug and play.
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o.k. I am starting to think that I am doing something wrong.
I am over 50% failure rate with these module:(
Here is what I am doing.
I am running the Smartstring SSC test code.
I am plugging no more than 20 modules into a controller.
I run the test pattern for a while, and then turn on the white mode.
After 30-60 minutes I start seeing a rainbow of colors! Usually 1 LED on the module goes to a specific color and locks there.
AM I missing something? Am I doing something wrong? Even if I leave these in white mode overnight they should not overheat or fail. Should the???
I am getting a little frustrated and discouraged. I have several projects that these LED Pixels will work great for, but if I cannot feel confident they are going to work thru the season, what are my options?
I am sure that Ray at ALiexpress will work with me, but I want to check my sanity first!!!
Mike.
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i'm about to bring my modules of out storage. (working on some coro stuff) i'll let you know how mine act. i know i have a couple that are acting up. but most work.
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It could be that you have one bad module in the twenty that will not pass data correctly to modules after it. This could make it look like all modules after it are displaying incorrect color but really it may only be the one bad module. The bad module usually is the last module in the line that displays correct color.
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I am confident that Ray tests his gear before shipping BUT with his controller. I wonder if many of the failed nodes/modules I read about on DIYLA would work with his controller? I have a TH2010x ($20) and it is a must have for testing. At 50% failure rate I think something is wrong on your end.
When programming pic for testware do you have program jumper on or off? I don't think it supposed to matter but I remember having similar issues. Leave it on as you program but take it it off before you kill power. This also goes for programming start channel. Also make sure you're getting correct checksum. You have 330 ohm resistor in it right? Lastly, do you have another SSC to try or another pic to swap? I had a heck of time with testing once and after hours of trying things I swapped a pic, programmed, and it worked flawlessly ever since. Think it might have to do with the fact I don't have any antistatic protection...
Anyway, really hope you get it fixed since I am about to order a ton of the same modules! I would be willing to buy a strand off you to test if you want a 2nd opinion. Just a thought.
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The jumper pin can be in either position when you program the PIC. It will not matter as far as programming pic. Although having it on will allow Pic to boot into SmartString program mode immediately after Pic is programmed.
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Suggesting again - what current and voltage do you measure going into the string? What's the voltage at the far end of the string?
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thanks for the feedback.
1.) I thought that once the pic is programmed that if the jumper is in the off position they SSC cylces the modules thru the colors. If on, it turns them all on to constant white.
2.) I have 3 different SSC's running testing and I am experiencing same problem with all 3.
3.) dpitts, I have not checked current and voltage at both ends, i made an assumption that the PC power supply that I have plugged in was good enough. I will check, but my ask some help on it to get it right!
Mike.
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thanks for the feedback.
1.) I thought that once the pic is programmed that if the jumper is in the off position they SSC cylces the modules thru the colors. If on, it turns them all on to constant white.
Mike.
I forgot you were using test firmware.
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Looks to me that power supply is a common denominator. I agree with Zeph, get your meter and rule it out.
Some other thoughts...
Tried another cable to connect to SSC? Another output from hub?
Tried the other strands right? Does each strand of 20 modules behave same way when connected to different ssc's?
Reason why I said something about the programming jumper is I am 100% sure if you do not remove the jumper before killing power when programming start channel to ssc it will not program correctly.
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Look at step 4 in the assembly manual. If you are using the 330 ohm resistor and having issues, you should replace it with a 150 ohm resistor.
RM