DiyLightAnimation
Hardware => Lynx Express => Topic started by: Halstaff on February 29, 2012,
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My very first Christmas light controller was delivered today! I'm looking forward to having my first Express completed and running this week.
Thanks RJ and JJ for all the hard work. The kit looks great!
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Good Luck. I know how exciting it is to get your first and complete it. I am waiting for my second and third ones to come in and am more excited to get started with them knowing that I have 1 under my belt.
Steve
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Mine was delivered today as well. Now the fun task of putting it together!! ;D
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Stop wasting time on the forum thanking us all and go have fun building, thats whats important! <wd..
RJ
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Building?!??!?!?!? Your supposed to build them!!! <fp.
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I'm making great progress on the assembly but have run into a bit of a snag. Could someone please check their 16 cable connector strips and see if they fit in the holes in the board? The pins on mine seem too large to fit into the holes. I tried a standard 2 pin header I have and it fits fine. I hate to force them and break something.
Thanks.
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I'm making great progress on the assembly but have run into a bit of a snag. Could someone please check their 16 cable connector strips and see if they fit in the holes in the board? The pins on mine seem too large to fit into the holes. I tried a standard 2 pin header I have and it fits fine. I hate to force them and break something.
Thanks.
Just checked my 6. The last pcb is real tight. I had to force it in. The first 5, no issues.
you may want to try 2-4 at a time as opposed to putting the entire strip in at once. Maybe dab a little rosin flux on the tips.
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I had to do like Steve said, 3 or so at a time. Just make sure they re-interlock on the top side
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I'm making great progress on the assembly but have run into a bit of a snag. Could someone please check their 16 cable connector strips and see if they fit in the holes in the board? The pins on mine seem too large to fit into the holes. I tried a standard 2 pin header I have and it fits fine. I hate to force them and break something.
Thanks.
Did you attach the connectors together before putting them on the board? They are keyed to fit together.
Rich
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I got mine today as well. Thank you very much RJ
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I've completed my board with the exception of the row of cable headers. Short of using a hammer or a pair of pliers or drilling out the holes a bit, I don't see how I'm going to get these to fit. I've taken them apart and tried them separately without success. I've already started to bend pins trying to get them to fit.
I can't believe I got everything else on the board completed and can't figure this out. I guess I'm not as smart as even I thought I was!
On the bright side, I ran the power check and got my green lights like I was supposed to. I'm debating now whether to install all the chips and do a full test which should be OK without the cable headers installed. I just don't want to have to remove the chips in order to solder in the headers once I figure that out. Any thoughts?
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Something is not correct? they are snug which I intended but I have never had anyone have that much problems getting them in.
You can not drill them as it will ruin the pcb. You are locking them together first before putting them in correct.
RJ
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RJ, I tried locking them together first and that didn't work. I then separated them and I can't even get one set to fit.
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Pictures?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Check this link for a picture - http://screencast.com/t/yoaejRwvQ
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I had to take some of may last ones apart as much as I could. If they did not fit, I did use a drill bit "BY HAND" and took just enough material out to get them in. The biggest help however was by taking them apart as much as possible an installing them piece by piece.
I would make sure the pin spacing is correct on the part as I would bet it's not a PCB issue.
I stressed by hand because as RJ said if you drill out the hole too much your in trouble.
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Got my 4 tonight! Now I need to figure out how to use the propane torch my wife gave me last year to solder some pipes, to work on these small parts.?.?.? ::) I'll check you-tube maybe... lol just kidding...
THANKS RJ!!
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Other than the little problem I'm having, the build went together very well. The videos were a great help.
Thanks RJ for putting this together.
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These connectors are much tighter than what I experienced on previous expresses I have built.
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+1 for the terminal strips being unusually tight. Took me almost 30 minutes to pry them off and put them in in smaller sections.
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I had to take some of may last ones apart as much as I could. If they did not fit, I did use a drill bit "BY HAND" and took just enough material out to get them in. The biggest help however was by taking them apart as much as possible an installing them piece by piece.
I would make sure the pin spacing is correct on the part as I would bet it's not a PCB issue.
I stressed by hand because as RJ said if you drill out the hole too much your in trouble.
I will be doing this if necessary. 6 le's to build today.
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I'll wait until some others try theirs before continuing the fight with the headers.
In the mean time, I went ahead and installed the chips and fired it up. Good voltage leds and the display comes on but seems to scroll slower than in the video and led #6 comes on dimly and stays on. I ran the test and the led's on pins 10, 11 & 12 don't come on at all. I've switched opto's with working ones and it doesn't fix it. Rechecked all my solder joints and don't see anything amiss.
Maybe I'll need to step back and attack it again in a day or so.
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Try reflashing the PIC. I had a slow scrolling display that was due to bad/corrupt firmware. Reloading the firmware fixed my problem.
HIH,
-Keith
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I did see in the troubleshooting guide to do that. Unfortunately, I don't have a Pickit yet. I'll need one for my Etherdongle anyway, so I'll be ordering one and trying that.
Thanks.
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I don't have a drill bit that small. Starting on the right side of the board, (so the keys can go in from the top on the next piece) I went one piece at a time, using the table top to "press" it in place. some went in a lot easier than others. Only one of 6 boards had this issue.. stressful... but got it done.
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So we had a manufactor issue with the pcb. that makes a little more sense. check for excess solder in the hole making it smaller and heat is with an iron and a little solder wick it might help. Sometimes when the Hot Air Solder Level the pcbs it leaves a little too much solder in the holes.
RJ
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Thanks for the feedback and help. I will be starting mine this weekend and I'll know what to look for.
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So I was curious about mine that I just got (Thanks RJ for the work!). Its a tight fit on both of them but I was able to get them in ok.
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It's as RJ stated above. Excess solder here and there.
They can be forced in with out breaking anything.
Or find a drill bit small enough to clean it up a bit, BY HAND.
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Success with getting the headers in! I was able to take a small awl and use the grinder to get a very fine tip. With that, I carefully reamed out the holes just enough to get the headers in one at a time. It took a good bit of pushing but got them all in and soldered.
Still have my other issues but won't be able to test whether a reflash of the chip solves them until I get my Pickit3.
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It sounds like you rec'd this controller with the COOP. Were the PIC's programmed?
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I'll wait until some others try theirs before continuing the fight with the headers.
In the mean time, I went ahead and installed the chips and fired it up. Good voltage leds and the display comes on but seems to scroll slower than in the video and led #6 comes on dimly and stays on. I ran the test and the led's on pins 10, 11 & 12 don't come on at all. I've switched opto's with working ones and it doesn't fix it. Rechecked all my solder joints and don't see anything amiss.
Maybe I'll need to step back and attack it again in a day or so.
I have the exact same problem with the 3rd and last LE I will be building today.
I did swap the pic with one of the other boards and it fixed the problem. It is a pic issue for sure.
Guess I need to order that pickit myself. ;)
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That's good to know Steve.
I knew I should have ordered 2 kits!
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Number 4 of 6 has the same pic issue as stated above. :'(
2 more to go.....
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got my first one completed but need a little help led #12 does not light solder joints look good also when i was putting lynx together the first test 3.3v led and 5v led both worked now 5v led does not light up the 3.3v and the data link led light up when i plug it in is that right thanks
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hold on found one of the pins was bent now all led are on except the 5v is that good ??? thanks again
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gonna have a beer and then start le number 2 ordered 2 from the first coop only problem i dont have a dongle missed that coop any one have one f/s thanks again
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vstar, if I was you I would post your request for the dongle in the Sale/Trade section of the forum. Or if it is a USB dongle you could also get the PCB through the store and order the parts through Mouser Direct.
Steve
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One of four done! (Whoot) It took me about 7 hours - let me explain. I soldered my first PCB (SparkFun kit) 4 days ago. I set everything for one LE on the dining room table and did a walk through. Watched the videos, printed out the assembly manual, used it as a checklist, fired up the iron, burned my hand 'cuz stupid me forgot that it does get hot, and I should have moved it before I turned it on.
Play w/grandson
Plug/solder/inspect...Plug/solder/inspect......
Play w/grandson
Soldering went great! I only re worked 7 solder joints.
Play w/grandson
Did the power up test and got the two LED's!!!
Play w/grandson........
THIS IS SOOOO COOL!!
And like the post above about the dongel (I did not get one yet), I'll go give it a try soon.
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thank steve will do started on my 2nd le last nite looking good so far wife and kids walk by me shaking there heads and laughing
starting to call me the mad scientist lol
thanks again guys been looking at this site for years i finally pulled the trigger glad i did
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Vstar it is an awesome feeling and I am sure once it is all done and your wife and kids see the results then they will be very proud and calling everyone to come over and see their show. I personally can not wait until Halloween to have my first show on and have the neighborhood shaking theirs heads and smiling at us.
Steve
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Ok I just built number 4 of 6 and it has the pic issue as well. That's 3 out of 4 <fp.
Anybody else having this problem? (besides Halstaff and me)
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Again I have to ask. Were they programmed before being shipped?
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Again I have to ask. Were they programmed before being shipped?
Yes, they are always programmed before shipping.
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Thanks Steve. I thought I read somewhere that they would not be programmed.
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finished second le looks like same problem with the pic #6 led dim and display very slow switched it with the other pic everything works fine
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One of four done! (Whoot) It took me about 7 hours - let me explain. I soldered my first PCB (SparkFun kit) 4 days ago. I set everything for one LE on the dining room table and did a walk through. Watched the videos, printed out the assembly manual, used it as a checklist, fired up the iron, burned my hand 'cuz stupid me forgot that it does get hot, and I should have moved it before I turned it on.
Play w/grandson
Plug/solder/inspect...Plug/solder/inspect......
Play w/grandson
Soldering went great! I only re worked 7 solder joints.
Play w/grandson
Did the power up test and got the two LED's!!!
Play w/grandson........
THIS IS SOOOO COOL!!
And like the post above about the dongel (I did not get one yet), I'll go give it a try soon.
Beanbag,
you got to find a way to ditch the grandson. Sounds like he is getting in the way of the addiction! (*tongue firmly in cheek*) Congrats on your first build. It is a great feeling!
Kurt
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Not sure why the firmware would be an issue it should be the same firmware we have been putting on them. Maybe the file has got corrupt. another reason I plan to stop flashing them in the coops so that the user get a programmer since you should have one if you are building this stuff we do updates all the time.
RJ
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Not sure why the firmware would be an issue it should be the same firmware we have been putting on them. Maybe the file has got corrupt. another reason I plan to stop flashing them in the coops so that the user get a programmer since you should have one if you are building this stuff we do updates all the time.
RJ
It was in my plans to get one anyway. Is there a video that shows how to program a pic on a LE?
I have seen the instructions in the WIKI but my A.D.D. and my D.A.S. prevent me from fully understanding..
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It was in my plans to get one anyway. Is there a video that shows how to program a pic on a LE?
I have seen the instructions in the WIKI but my A.D.D. and my D.A.S. prevent me from fully understanding..
[/quote]
My opportunity to use a four letter acronym and I can't do it. Here it is in the Express Manual. Adjust to your programmer as necessary. :)
http://www.diylightanimation.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual_Express#Programming_and_Operation_of_the_EXPRESS
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I should be able to figure this out. Even with my Dumb A@# Syndrome.
Thanks Jeff.
Edit for language by RJ
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Some handy tools that come to mind.
Solder station
Close cut wire cutter
Inexpensive multimeter meter
PicKit
Solder sucker / de-solder braid
Yes. Even I put an LED in backwards tonight after having built over 50 controllers. :(
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I got my Pickit3 today and reflashed my Pic. It seemed to load properly and the checksum came out right. However, when I run the test, LED6 is still dim. Everything else seems to check out fine. I switched the chip with one that was working and that didn't make any difference.
Any ideas on what I should check?
Thanks for the help.
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When you rec'd your PicKit3 did you upgrade the firmware on it and when you went to flash the PIC did you select the proper PIC as I had issues with these the first time I did mine.
Steve(from Edmonton)
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I had the same problem and reflashing the pic solved it.
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I installed the latest version on the Pickit3, downloaded the firmware twice, am using the correct device and I've reflashed the chip 3 times with the same results. The checksum comes out right and all the other led's seem to work fine.
I'm thinking that I have another problem although I just got the Pickit3 and may be doing something wrong.
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When you turn on the LE does it scroll through fairly fast or is it slow in scrolling. Also when you go through the test on the LE does led's for 10, 11 and 12 come on as when I had a bad PIC the LE scrolled fairly slow and the three LED's did not come on during the test. Once I used the Pickit3 Stand Alone Program and reflashed the PIC they all worked great.
Steve
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Steve, that exactly how mine originally acted when I first tested it. However, after reflashing the pic, the only issue that remains is that led6 is still dim. All other issues have been resolved.
That's what has me stumped.
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Halstaff are you able to attach some photo's as I know previous issues have been resolved with people seeing some images. I am new to this also, so I am at a loss and would love to see how this is resolved.
Steve
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Here are links to photos -
http://screencast.com/t/Ts9BkkVH (http://screencast.com/t/Ts9BkkVH)
http://screencast.com/t/Wo36WquPu (http://screencast.com/t/Wo36WquPu)
http://screencast.com/t/K3DJKEsf4mV (http://screencast.com/t/K3DJKEsf4mV)
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If the number 6 LED is coming on dimly there would have to be some leakage from the pic.
1. Did you try swapping out PIC's with a know good LE? If you did did it make a difference?
2. Have you run the test mode on the LE? Did it function correctly?
3. If you take out the PIC does the LED still glow dimly?
In order for the LED to glow it would have to be getting some source of ground and the only ground for the LED is the PIC
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Jeff, I haven't tried swapping out the pic with a known good one as this is my first and only Express. Maybe I'll order another one and give that a try.
I have run test mode and everything seems to run fine except for the dim led on 6. I haven't tried running a program other than test as I just got my Etherdongle and Pickit3 yesterday. These are my first purchases and I still need to get the cables and cords.
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Check pin 10 of the pic chip (10 down on left side looking at the front of the controller) for a weak bridge, could even be some flux on the pins since it takes so little current to make the led glow.
RJ
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RJ, I don't see anything but I'll reflow the pins of the pic to make sure.
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Well I reflowed the relevant joints and still the same result. Everything checks out in test mode, the checksum is right but led6 still lights up much dimmer than the others.
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Alright, please explain this to me.
After redoing all the solder joints failed to fix the problem, I jumpered the led that wouldn't light with a good one. Now it works! Maybe not quite as bright as the other led's, but it does light.
Go figure!
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you might have given it too much heat when you first put it on, and slightly damanged it? or is it in backwards?
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I don't know. I doubt it's in backwards as I never took it out, just reflowed the solder joints and it's working now.
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Great to hear! ;D
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Congrats, I was rooting for you.
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Halstaff, that is great news. Have fun once you get the dongle going.
Steve (from Edmonton)
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Thanks guys but I'm still not really sure what I did to fix this. All I did was jump the dim led and a good one. Once the dim led lit, I removed the jumper and its worked since.
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if you're using more than one express (most do) i'd mark this one in some way that you know it's "that one" in case it acts up for you outside, or in the cold.
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Possibly there was a slight bridge and with you jumpering it then removing it, this removed the bridge???
Who knows ITS WORKING, that all that really matters is it not?
Steve
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Most likely you have a bad (weak) LED when you jumper-ed it with another LED it had enough extra current flowing through it to make it work. My bad for not reading your problem more thoroughly as I thought the LED was just glowing dimly on it's own (with no output to it) and in reality when it was supposed to be on (output to the number 6 opto) it would only lite dimly. <fp. Glad you got it working it it give you any more problems just replace the LED.