Received my lights but a couple of questions

[MrChristmas2000]

I bought a TH2010-x Dream-color Controller in order to supposedly quickly test my leds before finalizing all my SSC modules.

I have both the rectangle and pixel nodes. I have hooked both types to this TH2010 tester but only the first 15 notes come on. Is that to be expected? I have pushed the three control buttons every which way I could thnik of. Great test sequences of color but on the first 15 nodes work. Anybody else out there got it to work on more than 15nodes?

Upon examination of the pixel strings I noticed there were a number of splices in each of the strings. Is that normal? If the string works I am assuming that it isn't something to worry about very much. I understand that they will need to be attached to some Paracord for added strength anway.

Does anybody have a good source of a 1000ft roll of Black Paracord?

Thanks,

Tom

[Rainlover]

Tom,
I don't have my controller here at work, but if I remember right, there is a setting on the controller that sets the number of nodes in the string. You should be able to light up all the nodes. I was able to light up all of the nodes on my 128 count strings with that controller.
There weren't any splices in any of my node strings except the ones that I put there.

John

[taybrynn]

That controller comes preset to 15 nodes.  You can enter a config mode to change it.  I found the manual somewhere and it indicated how to enter that mode.  It might be pressing both buttons at the same time, perhaps holding them down a bit ... then you can select/configure a number of things ... like # of nodes, low/high speed, etc. 

[taybrynn]

Excerpt from manual:

â…¤.Menu Setting
1. Connect the strip according to "connection diagram," and power it on. (It is normal if the strip doesn't light up. Just set as follows).
2. Press "On/Off" button to close it down (only under the state of closing down, the menu can be set).
3. Press "+" and "-" and "Mode/ Speed” three buttons all at once, and there would be no display on the screen, then press "Mode/ Speed" button to enter the mode of Menu Setting.
4.The first state is "high/low speed setting" and the screen displays "P-HI" or "P-LO"; press "-" and "+" to choose the speed mode( if what the strip IC connects is high speed mode, choose "P-HI", and low-speed mode for "P-LO").
5. Continue to press the “Mode/Speed" button to enter the second state "control point setting". The four-digit on the screen is the number of control points. Press "-" and "+" to make adjustment (long pressing can adjust rapidly).
6. Press the “Mode/Speed" button once again to enter the third state "main/branch control setting". Screen displays "F-Sr" or "F-Ct"; press "-" and "+" to make your choice ("F-Sr" for main control and "F-Ct" for branch control). [Single controller doesn't need cascade synchronous connection, so "F-Ct" is suggested.]
7. Continue to press the “Mode/Speed" button to enter the fourth state "play menu setting". Then the screen displays "00-H", which means the allowance of the play of the certain effect; and the display of "00-L" means the 00 effect is not allowed to play. The two settings can be switched by pressing "Mode/Speed” button. Press "+" and "-" to set other effects.
8. After setting the menu, press "On/Off" button to save and exit.

source:
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[rm357]

For the 2010-A, you want high speed, third setting doesn't really matter, but F-Ct is suggested.

RM

[MrChristmas2000]

That got the test running. Thanks guys. 

I am testing my rectangles right now.

I did notice a number of splices in my pixel strings. I will see if there seems to be any failures due to those splices.

The next big question is if it passes this little testers test can I assume that they should be ok being driven by a ssc?

Did any body that got the rectangles notice that some of the pcbs looked a little dirty. Dosen't seem to affect the performance but dosen't look good visually.

Still looking for a good source on the 1000ft roll of Black Paracord. 

The bad thing is that I've only got 2 days to check all this out because we are leaving on a family trip for a few days.

Tom

[caretaker]

I got mine from Amazon:
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54.99  I've seen a few cheaper prices but after you added on the expensive shipping Amazon was cheaper.

[rm357]

I'm not sure why, but the 2010-A will run some pixels that do not run with the SSC.
I've got some theories, but I'm going to have to borrow an o-scope to dig into it and don't know when I'll have time... Especially since LSP2 just came out...

I'm seeing about 1/2% failure rate on nodes. Usually either the first node in the string (I may have zapped them with static the first time I tested them...) or one color (usually red) doesn't work.

If you have a node that looks like it is bad, usually I cut the string before that node and hook it directly to the SSC. If it works, then it is probably the output of the prior node, if it doesn't work, then it gets sent to the bad node bin and I try the next one up the string...

RM

[jeffcoast]

RJ figured out that can be due to lower power output on the data line from the SSC than from the tester. The fix was to change the 330 ohm resister to a 150 ohm resister, or piggyback another 330 ohm if you've already built them and don't want to completely remove it.

[MrChristmas2000]

Yes, I recall the resistor change. I'm going to first try it without any change then if there is a seemingly bad node I'll change it out.

So far with the 2010-A I have not had any leds not work.

Tom

[rm357]

Most of my failures started acting up after an hour or so. The hanging up on white issue was immediate, and pretty much fixed by the resistor change.

I have seen one pixel that periodically scrambled the data such that the nodes following each had a different random color... I'm at a loss on how that  could even happen...

RM