DiyLightAnimation
Hardware => Lynx Aeon => Topic started by: therealbigjim on April 27, 2011,
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I have recently assembled my Aeon clock kit from the recent coop. Nothing is lighting up or appears to work. I have 7 vdc at the plug and at points around the board but I am just guessing at this point. I have tried to attach pictures and an not having much luck. I reviewed some recent photos and I think everything is placed correctly ( but if it was it would working. ) I will try to add some photos after this post. Jim
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See if this post helps you with posting pictures.
http://diylightanimation.com/index.php?topic=2895.0
I think you are trying to post pictures from your computer using the image button above this area. That image button is for pictures on the internet and not your computer. The link above explains the proper way to display pictures.
Rick R.
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thank you, I was able to post the photos. I am glad some thing finally worked today. Thx. Jim
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I had the same problem with mine. here is the tread on it http://diylightanimation.com/index.php?topic=4982.0
I hope something in there helps you out
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I had read that thread and compared my components and their placement. I thought I was careful when placing the led s but would that cause a no light at all?
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Have you tried loading the PIC again. From the pictures though a little hard to see it looks good. I can not tell about the solder joints. Try and see if that will work. also check direction on the push button switches. I remember reading somewhere about the direction being very important.
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Are the regulators in the correct positions?
/mike
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I placed the switches with the tab in the hole in the pcb. I retouched all the solder joints and have 7 vdc at all the led s and in most places on the board. here are some more pics. still no lights <fp. I am about to use it as a $50.00 frisbee......
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mike I just posted better pics
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In the great trend of second guessing oneself I removed the switches from the pcb and they were installed correctly but the switches and their socket were ruined in the process so its all a moot point now.
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I have spare switches so it is not a moot point. I do not what sockets you are talking about the switches do not have sockets on them?
When you say you have 7 volts everywhere can you test the top .1uf cap on the right side of the big chip in the middle. Should be about 3.3 volts across it. This would be a good first step.
RJ
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I believe I damaged the board its self where the switches attach. From what point on the board do you want me to use as the ground for the voltage check. I have been using the top of the three soldered points of the power connector as mt ground. from there its reading 6.1 vdc.
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That pin isn't ground. For ground, use the metal tab of the 7805. Another good place to get ground is the pad for the extra (not loaded) 0.1uF cap above the lynx's head, closest to the big number 11.
/mike
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Put the probes on your meter one on each side of the capacitor I said and see if you have 3.3 v or very close.
RJ
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Nothing across the top cap, but the bush buttons are not installed on the board.
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Nothing across the top cap, but the bush buttons are not installed on the board.
The buttons would not have effect on this. With it powered up you should have 3.3v on that capacitor so we have an issue. Pm me and setup a time and day to work with me in Teamspeak we will troubleshoot it and get it working.
RJ
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pm sent
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Well on my second try I have been a little less medicated and more careful and only messed up installing one chip socket. A little desodering and three messed up traces I have finished. Powered it up and I have one led lit (21 seconds). The chips I used were from the coop, I believe there they came programed I took some voltage readings and I have 3.3 v at the caps I checked. ........ any suggestions? ???
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May want to verify your select push buttons are not backwards.
Push the button and see what it changes
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I put them with the tab on the hole in the mother board..... and I have pushed the buttons and removed the battery and let it sit, then plugged it back in and the same thing, the 21st second light comes on and stays on. <fp.
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Ok, so I know I am a little impatient but I decided to try to program the Aeon with my shiny new Picit 3. After blundering around installing Picit on my computer I got the program installed and the Picit 3 devise loaded and communicating with the computer. I connected the Picit to the Aeon (set on 3 volts) and I got an error message
PICkit 3 detected Connecting to PICkit 3...
Firmware Suite Version...... 01.26.43 Firmware type......................PIC18F PICkit 3 Connected. Target Detected Target Device ID (00000000) does not match expected Device ID (00000420).
I then went to the wiki page and copied the aeon .hex file. I saved it om my computer. I then opened the file and attempted to load it.. I got the error message;
Programming... The following memory regions failed to program correctly: Program Memory Address: 00000001 Expected Value: 00000002 Received Value: 00000000 Programming failed.
These were coop chips from my failed first build do I decided to install the new blank chips that came with my order from Mouser. I got the same message and not the 21st second led is not on ......
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It sounds like there might be a solder bridge or two under the control chip..
(just my thougt.)_
Larry
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Ok I see a major issue. The unit is not an 18f pic it is a 24f pic. So the programmer needs to be set to the correct chip. If you can schedule some time this weekend I can get one teamspeak and we can do some troubleshooting to get you heading in a better direction. I really want you to get your clock working.
RJ
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with the pickit 3, you have to choose the model of your PIC from the drop down list. you might need to update the firmware on your pickit 3 also, (which can be done by opening MPLAB)
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Well, Thank you, I knew something was up when I saw the drop down for all the chip types. Two other things, first , I am having a carpel tunnel release done on my right hand Friday morning. Secondly, I inspected the board again and I found I folded a pin under the IC, CRYSTAL OSC, 32.768KHZ, 5.5V chip. It broke when I tried to move it straight. So I ordered a new one ( this chip was the one that came with the coop, I did not order it when I reordered new parts) so I am waiting on that to arrive. It has thin pins and doesn't like to be removed and re installed. I may wait till I am off pain meds before firing up the iron again. I thought this would be a good project to do while I have been recovering from back surgery, but I have been doing less then my best work. Attached are some of my welding and a shot of the front. The wires attached to the back are to replace the damaged wire runs. There are no shorts or bridges ( I checked with my meter before going on) The chip socket had a shorted folded pin and had to be taken off to correct it.
If it is alright with you RJ I will PM you when I have my replacement chip and can do the work.
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well I received my replacement chip and it is installed. Read the wiki and found the 24fj32gaoo2 and selected it in the picit 3 menu and got,
PICkit 3 detected
Connecting to PICkit 3...
Firmware Suite Version...... 01.26.43
Firmware type......................dsPIC33F/24F/24H
PICkit 3 Connected.
Target Detected
Device ID Revision = 00003046.
so I guess I have the right chip set selected.
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Well, after reading the wiki on the pic, I connected it to the clock and now I have all the leds lit at once.... I removed power and the battery but when re connected all the led are still lit. I guess that is better then having nothing lit at all .... <fp.
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Pm me and Setup a time to work with me in teamspeak. Sounds like the pic is not running .
RJ
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Isn't all the LED's being lit a known issue. IIRC, many had that issue and simply reprogrammed the Pic with the current firmware to eliminate it. Sme actually liked that it did that as an easy way to test the LED's ad connections prior to puting it to use.
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Well it been a long strange trip but finally, yes finally I have a blinky flashy clock stepping through all 72 leds. The problem was the mplab ied program. I was re reading old clock trouble posts and came across a post by RJ on Nov. 15 2010 about the same condition I was having. His solution was to use the picit 3 programmer stand alone utility. I downloaded it and after two tries the lights went out and only one red led was on. I was able to set the clock and now it is propped on my computer desk, ticking / stepping away. Thank you for the assistance. now to start on the dongle....... ;D
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Congratulations on your new working Aeon clock! <res. The bigger issue here is that your were resourceful enough to continue to sift through the forum posts and even though you asked and got some help your were ultimately able to solve the problem by yourself - Way to Go! That's why I love this site, lots of resources and expert help if you get stuck.