DiyLightAnimation
Hardware => Lynx Smart String => Topic started by: zwiller on November 26, 2012,
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Tried reflashing many times and get correct checksum, a new 485, a new pic, and no solder issues that I can see. No blinking flashing for successful program... I assumed if test mode runs I was golden...
How would you go about fixing? Any thoughts?
THANKS
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We are going to need a little more info. What version SSC? EtherDongle or USB?
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I suppose that would be helpful. ;D
SSC v1 modded v3 first edition (tm) >:D Etherdongle flashed pixelnet.
Having successfully built and modded 17 other SSC's this is the only bad guy. He just needs to come out of his shell...
It wouldn't be bad to keep flashed for test on the bench but I need it.
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Test firmware proves that the SSC is getting power and the light connected to it are working.
It doesn't prove that the SSC is receiving information. I would check to see if the data lines in are solder correctly.
I am going to assume since the other SSCs work than the rest of your hardware is working (computer, dongle, hub)
So that just leaves the pigtail and wire in and the input side of the SSC, right?
Rick R.
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It could also be a bad solder joint on the data pins on the hub. If you can use the same port and cat5 cable from a known good SSC.
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When I had this I reheated all my ssc solder points on the board and it fixed it.
Sent from my Thunderbolt using Tapatalk 2.
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I had a similar issue and I found I mixed my pigtail wires.
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Do you have a stand alone pic programmer like the one in the picture that you can try? (https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTJvFm3HktVgmpO_7V9ayvFbUrAfdFHeA-c2-yU-DJ_1Twf-bMX4Q)
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That is not the programming that he is talking about. The socket you are displaying will work for flashing the PIC and since he can load the test firmware, flashing the PIC is not an issue. Where he is having an issue is configuring the controller which indicates that it isn't receiving data. If it is not receiving data to set the controller, it probably would not receive data to run the show either.
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Thanks for ideas guys. After scavenging a pic from a LE I am not using, I have another SSC to replace this one with but I still want this fixed.
Rest of hardware is OK. I swapped between a good one and this one on same hub output, so it's not hub. I checked the data lines a million times. They're correct. (I was hoping on this one!) Reflowed the joints. No dice.
I decided to pick it up and the low voltage regulator was REAL HOT. I see no bridges anywhere etc. I'd like to think it is a bad LD33 but unsure. Any ideas now? As fate would have it I have a LD33 from my 12V hub supply kit... I assume there is a
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The first thing I would look at is the pigtail and make sure that there is no shorts betewwn the data leads or the data and ground. Also make sure that there isn't an open wire on the data leads. We know that the the power leads are making connection or even the test firmware wouldn't work.
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Not sure about the hot regulator…Yet. Here are a few pins to check, if you have a meter.
First un-plug the cat5 cable, and measure the ohm’s across the data pins, it should be 120. Next measure between the following pins to see that you have 0 ohm’s.
data1 - pin6 on 485 chip
data2 - pin7 on 485 chip
pin1 on 485 chip – pin17 on the big chip
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No shorts on data/ground and continuity OK from all lines jack to pcb. Thought that was it the pigtail...
I assume that pin 1 is the dot on upper left and pins run in order vertically from top to bottom, left first then right.
measure the ohm’s across the data pins, it should be 120.
YES
Next measure between the following pins to see that you have 0 ohm’s.
data1 - pin6 on 485 chip > NO; 120 OHMS
data2 - pin7 on 485 chip > NO; 120 OHMS
pin1 on 485 chip – pin17 on the big chip- pin7 on 485 chip > YES
I also measured a working unit and had the same results...
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Sorry...Yes Pin1 is by the dot and you count in a U shape (Down, Across, Up). I think now it's time for pictures of the board (front and back).
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Thanks so far.
Before I tested I looked at the data sheet in Mouser but no pin out info there. Anyway, using the U shape pin count I rechecked and got 0 ohms on the 485 measurements. Not exactly 0 but very close to 0 (like .0005) So OK there.
Pics attached for public humiliation and viewing enjoyment...
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Your soldering looks good. From your ohm's testing we have proven that your path from the data pins to the big chip is good. The next thing to check is that the 485 chip is getting power. Check that you have 0 ohm’s between pin’s 2, 3, 5 and gnd. If that’s ok connect it to power. When doing the next test make sure you don’t short out 2 pins with the meter probe on the chip. Now measure volts from pin8 on the 485 chip to gnd, you should have +5 volts.
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Yes, 0 ohms on 2,3,5 and ground.
Yes, 4.96v (5v) on pin 8 to gnd.
Thanks <res.
I haven't seen any troubleshooting on SSC's here, I hope this will help others with similar issues.
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I decided to pick it up and the low voltage regulator was REAL HOT. I see no bridges anywhere etc. I'd like to think it is a bad LD33 but unsure. Any ideas now? As fate would have it I have a LD33 from my 12V hub supply kit... I assume there is a
Let us know how that swapout goes, I've got one that won't work correctly and has the same heat issue.
One thing I don't see mentioned is you said you are using the original version 3 mod, are you also using that firmware and programming utility as well? I don't believe the newer versions are compatible with that hardware mod.
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Yes, I have all the firmware for the first V3 renamed and backed up and the various mods are NOT compatible.
Some more info and vid here: http://diylightanimation.com/index.php?topic=10185.msg138949#msg138949 (http://diylightanimation.com/index.php?topic=10185.msg138949#msg138949)
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Bringing this one back from beyond... Swapped LD33 with a fresh one and still same results and runs too hot. Any more thoughts? Hoping to add any parts needed to the SSCv4 order. Thanks!
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Sam unless I missed it somewhere you don't mention if you keep trying the same lights. Have you tried it with another set of lights? Or does it get hot just plugged in no lights attached?
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That looks like the first "mod" attempt which didn't do so well.
My advice is to mod it to the new v3 configuration.
If you don't want to mod the board, can you easily disconnect the lights?
I would be willing to bet that the pin from the programming header being attached to the sting is preventing the programming from working.
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Actually never connected any lights since the LD33 gets hot fast and ready for magic smoke...
Very happy with that mod since I have 22 that worked well last season. Not opposed to scrapping it since v4 is due out but at this point it mostly a challenge to find it and understand what is wrong.
Just tried removing string connector, then removed mod wire, still cooking the LD33.
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Actually never connected any lights since the LD33 gets hot fast and ready for magic smoke...
Very happy with that mod since I have 22 that worked well last season. Not opposed to scrapping it since v4 is due out but at this point it mostly a challenge to find it and understand what is wrong.
Just tried removing string connector, then removed mod wire, still cooking the LD33.
I do not know the design end at all, but to make heat there must be current flow. Another words a positive connection going to a ground some where (a short). Since the LD33 reg is getting hot and you have already replace it the short would have to be after the LD 33 Regulator (unless 2 bad LD33...not likely, but possible). Just thinking out loud here.
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Pull the pic and see if it still get hot.
Check that the 5v regulator is putting 5volts out. It should be hard for the 3.3v reg to get hot on 5v as it must have a large amount of current running through it.
RJ
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Does not get hot with pic pulled. Hopefully a good thing.
Yes. 5v output from regulator. (Looked up datasheet. Cool stuff: Left leg input, center leg ground, right leg output 5v)
THANKS!
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Check that you have no solder bridging on the pic socket pins. Make sure your mod was to the correct pins.
RJ
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Hi just checking if you got the ssc to work. As I am having the same issue. Test works fine but when I program I get no blinky lights unless I remove the data line then I get all white. Have checked all soldering points as well as the pigtails and no dice. I am new and may be missing something so thought I would see if what fixed yours would work for me.
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Make sure your wiring is not swapped, there is no solder bridges and the parts are all in the correct direction.
Believe it or not this fixes 95% of the issues builders have.
RJ
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I am the 5% ;D I tried a ton of things and never got it to work. If I didn't know any better I got a bad pcb. Harvested the key parts and used on another and worked fine. This was the only bad project out of out like 50+.
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Also when you solder make sure you can see the solder on the top of the board as well as the bottom(all way through hole). Some boards have traces on top as well as on bottom. I also use an old toothbrush on the board after soldering to get rid of extra splatter of solder that could cause a problem.
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did you try just swapping the replaceable parts from one of the good sscs to this one? (pic, and 485)
also, the trace has been cut on one side of the board, which i believe uses a different jumper wire soldering on the bottom side, right?
your resistor choice, and trace cut, all match of my v1 to v3 mods (the one now in the wiki), but it was the one where we ran a wire from the data line to a pin on the pic.