Author Topic: mega tree design  (Read 7142 times)

Offline chrisatpsu

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mega tree design
« on: November 04, 2013, »
ok, for this year, i decided to go with not a full circle mega tree.

SO, what is better?
1.) a straight line at the base
2.) a slight arc at the base
3.) a semi circle at the base

what do you use, and why?
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Offline maffeirw

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Re: mega tree design
« Reply #1 on: November 04, 2013, »
With the assumption that you're talking about a pixel Megatree, I would vote for the semi circular base as it tends to keep each row of pixels (if they are evenly spaced on whatever your mounting them to) at the same height.  The straighter the base, the higher off the ground the end pixels get than the ones toward the center, distorting whatever graphic you display. IMO
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Offline jnealand

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Re: mega tree design
« Reply #2 on: November 04, 2013, »
a half tree is a half tree and it is 3 dimensional
Jim Nealand
Kennesaw, GA

Offline twooly

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Re: mega tree design
« Reply #3 on: November 04, 2013, »
I did a straight setup mainly for ease of setup and storage (hangs under storage above my garage door)
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Offline ghethco

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Re: mega tree design
« Reply #4 on: November 07, 2013, »
I'm going to do a full 360 megatree, about 8' high and using 4 x 128 pixel strings, 32 pixels high by 16 total up/down strings.  I'm struggling with what to do for the base.  I haven't experimented much yet.  I  know it's possible to make it out of PVC.  I would like for it to be circular, which for PVC means bending it unless you use the really flimsy stuff.  Any other ideas?

I'm planning to use galvanized tubing for the center pole, driven into the ground.  I'm considering just staking each string directly to the ground (instead of using a fixed base) using leaders of varying length since my front yard has a little bit of slope to it.

Gary

Offline onesmoothhead

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Re: mega tree design
« Reply #5 on: November 07, 2013, »
There is a product out there at Lowes and other places called corrugated pipe. It is used for leach fields to remove water away from the septic or even the sides of houses.  It is normally buried in the ground, but I am going to use it for my tree base.  I went to a local Septic tank installer and ask if he had any and he had some short pieces around and gave them to me at a very low cost.  Here is a link to the product at Lowes. It is very durable and flexible at the same time.  I am going to use EMT with flex strip attached.  I am going to drill holes into the corrugated pipe to slide my EMT into for the bottom and then hooks on the top. I hope this help and gets more people brain storming.
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Kevin

Offline jnealand

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Re: mega tree design
« Reply #6 on: November 07, 2013, »
My pixel tree which is made up of 16 half strips of flex are mounted on regular 1/2" metal emt that I spray painted green.  I smashed one end flat and drilled a hole thru it to use at the top for attaching.  My center pole is a pice of 2" pvc slipped over a fence stake that is pounded into the ground.  I used plumbing fittings to attach a piece of work at the top to attach the emt to and to mount a star on.  It is set up on a fairly flat area and I just let the emt sit on the ground.  No base loop at all.  The emt was cut off shorter than the original 10ft length and the lights start about 6" from the bottom which worked out well.  Just my opinion, but I thing 16 strands on a 360 megatree will not be enough, especially if you want to use nutcracker effects.  But a 180 tree would probably work ok.  I used flex instead of nodes because I wanted the light density in order for the nutcracker effects to really stand out and they do.
Jim Nealand
Kennesaw, GA

Offline zwiller

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Re: mega tree design
« Reply #7 on: November 07, 2013, »
Still designing mine but I vote semi circle base.  I think a mega is one of the few elements that need to be 3d for the effects to translate well.  However, I do think it is possible to design a 2d tree which looks just as good as a 3d tree but it will take alot of extra design/effort.  If you're gung ho a good projector and a mega tree model from nutcracker would probably work...  My rgb minis and arches are 2d/flat this year and I think they will be fine. 

My current design thoughts for a half 10' mega is 16 strands of 32 nodes (4 strands from 128 node string) plywood base with metal coupler and ABS center pole just large enough to allow a fence post driven into the ground inside.  Strips of abs and nodes for strings.  Hooks on base and eye bolt thru end cap topper to snug up strands with zip ties.  Assemble tree horizontally then slip over fence post.  Might drive some rebar with a 90 bend into ply for stability.  Need to test and see if the strips will rotate or not... 
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Offline chrisatpsu

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Re: mega tree design
« Reply #8 on: November 08, 2013, »
i dont bother with a base to my tree.

the cord that holds each string, gets anchored straight to the ground via an aluminum tent stake.
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Offline taybrynn

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Re: mega tree design
« Reply #9 on: November 08, 2013, »
If your viewers are only viewing from one side, then the 1/2 megatree saves a lot of cost and gives the same viewing experience.  I think with RGB being so directional, unlike minis, it really makes little sense to go 360 unless you place this tree where viewers can see from all angles (rare, I'm thinking).
Scott - Castle Rock, Colorado   [ 2 homes, 100% RGB in 2016; since 2008; over 32k channels of E1.31 ]
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Offline mms

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Re: mega tree design
« Reply #10 on: November 08, 2013, »
Living on a corner, I would probably do 3/4 of an RGB tree whereas I have a full incan right now.  I actually have a whole other "yard" I can add stuff for.  Time, money - mainly money, are huge factors in that process.
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Offline zwiller

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Re: mega tree design
« Reply #11 on: November 08, 2013, »
The reason I want a base is to make setup easier and accurate.  I can measure and space the mounts on the base so I don't have to fool with arranging things on the grass.  In fact, everything I am putting out with the exception of live trees will be mounted to base.  IE 4 minis spaced on a 10' PT 1x2 (2x4 ripped in half)  All lined up and spaced equally.  No more "eyeballing" things during setup.  SSC is attached to the base.  I even got thumbs up from wife and daughter that they look just as good as the 3d element

I'll be honest the main reason I went 2d was cost...  BUT then I realized how easier it will be storing 2d stuff.  Group of 8 minis and 4 arches are 6" wide...  .

RE: if I lived on a corner I would still only setup my layout on my door facing/address side, but that's just me.  But I am a less is more kinda guy.
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"Now, I had heard that word at least ten times a day from my old man. He worked in profanity the way other artists might work in oils or clay. It was his true medium; a master."

Offline Steve Gase

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Re: mega tree design
« Reply #12 on: November 08, 2013, »
i'm splitting the distance, 270-degrees.


I have a long road along the front of the yard and I want the tree to look good coming, going, and while you are directly in front.  but, no reason to do all sides in my case.


i think a 360 works well for spiral trees that are sparse enough that you want to see the effect of the full spirals.
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Offline smeighan

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Re: mega tree design
« Reply #13 on: November 08, 2013, »
I like a half megatee, we'll more like 200 degrees.

My 1809 flex strips are attached to 1/2" metal emt.

Here was thread of how I built it out of 3" abs last year
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Sean
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Offline therealbigjim

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Re: mega tree design
« Reply #14 on: November 08, 2013, »
My arches are made of the drain field pipe. Wraping the lights around it is kind of a pain in the a$$ but they were cheap to make.
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