DiyLightAnimation
Hardware => Lynx Smart String => Topic started by: sittinguphigh on October 08, 2012,
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Wanted to know if I could by pass the 4 port passive hub.
I want to know it is possiable to spit the signal coming out of the conductor? Then supple the signal to each SSC and then power each string separately.
I wish to use a small in line volt convertor/regulator for each smart string.
Thanks
Mort
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I believe you can do it without any problems.
You would either have to create your own adapter to make all the connections or wire it direct to the SSC instead of using the pigtail. Also, you would not have a pixelnet out to connect the next device so would have to create your own splices if you need more than one connection. I would also make sure to add a fuse to the power input.
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For your particular situation where all the wires are short (on a horse for those who have not been following this thread), you should be able to get away with splitting the data pair coming out of the conductor - but the split needs to be at 1 location. Not a two way here and another two way over there and the third a little farther down. Multiple splits will not work reliably. Every split causes an impedance mismatch, which degrades the data signal...
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In choosing you regulators, figure 30ma per node + 50ma for a v1 ssc (150 ma for a v2, v3 should be back around 50ma).
I.e. for a 1 amp regulator, you could probably do the ssc + 30 nodes.
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Now splitting the date stream shouldn't be a problem.
Now were and how would I plug in the power on each line to the SSC?
It would have to be between the data split and the SSC.
Maybe going into the the SSC using some kind of double wiring connection
plug in?
The smart strings uses three lines. What line is the power line?
Any ideas?
I'm using a 128 nodes. RJ put down if all nodes were on at the same time it would be 3.85 amps.
The fuze is 5 amps on the 4 port hub.
That is a good idea putting a in line fuze in.
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If only using 1 128 strand of smart strings do you really need to split? You can solder in lengths of cable to extend it in places where you don't need lights or to cross over or run back up a spot, perhaps using those spots to add in some quick disconnects for ease of putting it on the horse. I think RJ had said in the original Smart String videos not to extend space between two nodes more than 3 ft. Seems to me coming up with an up one side and down the other wiring idea and hopping spots may be easier as far as less components.
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I can report that I have successfully separated rectangle nodes with 6 feet in between. My coro candy canes each have 8 rectangles and the candy canes have six to eight feet of wire in between canes. I have connected 10 canes to a single SSC with zero problems. I think rectangles have the same TM1804 chip as strings.
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I think rectangles have the same TM1804 chip as strings.
Yes, they do
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On the input of the ssc, you have 4 connections: a pixelnet data pair (orange/white-orange), ground and +12v.
On a v1 ssc, there are three wires for ground and three wires for +12
On a v2 ssc, the same three wires get twisted together for ground and the same three for + 12
You can not skip the ssc.
On the output of the ssc, you have ground, +12, and 1 wire for pixel data (uses ground for the data return).
Pixelnet and pixel data are not the same. Pixelnet is a balanced rs-485 type data stream, while the pixel data is an unbalanced bit stream. There are also data speed and bit encoding differences. The ssc coverts pixelnet to pixel data.
Since you are talking about skipping the passive hub, my assumption is that you are making a custom wiring harness using cat 5 patch cords with one end cut off . The pixelnet data must be a twisted pair - you cannot go very far with a home brew twisted pair.
If you are thinking about splitting the pixel data after the ssc, you are entering uncharted waters...
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The problem is I'm running three or four smart strings.
I need a converter to set the battery at 12 volts.
Problem is I'm can find a converter/regulator that works with high enough amps.
At least 20 amps.
So I thought about spitting the smart strings up and take out the 4 port hub.
There by having four small converts/regulators at 5 amps a piece.
And if I could maybe using two batteries at 3.6 volts and that would be two 40 amps equaling 80 amps.
That gives me alot more current to work with and less space.
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how many nodes to you want to use total?
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Ya guess I misunderstood on my previous post. From what I read it was just 128 nodes, but those power requirements in your next post and the mention of 3-4 strings make me think it's 512. That'll be one bright horse.
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I want to use 128 nodes times 3 smart strings. But I want to have to ability to add a four if I need it.
But I may save that for next year.
So that is 385 nodes must. 3 strings.
Choices 3.2v to 3.6v converter booster to 12v using 2,3,4 batterys. 80,120,160 amps
6.2v to 7.2v converter booster to 12v. using four batterys. 80 amps one or two converters
12.8 to 14.4 converter booster to 12v using one four batterys 40 to 60 amps
Of coarse there is some loss due to step up booster. Except if you step down booster then there is a gain.
The biggest watts usage will be the ampilier and speakers.
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You have to choose either 3 or 4 SSCs when you make your custom harness. You can only split the data lines at one location. All lines going to SSCs have to be terminated. The ssc does that for you or you can use a 120 ohm resistor. If you split it three ways and decide later that you need four, you have to do it at the same split solder joint. You can't create a second split joint and expect things to work consistently.
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On the converters there is no free lunch. If you go from say 3.6 volts to 12 volts... if you need 5 amps at 12 volts, you are going to be drawing something like 20 amps at 3.6 v.
5*12= 60 watts.
converters are not 100% efficient, so you need more that 60 watts coming from the battery
3.6*20 = 72 watts
20 amps would be 83% efficient...
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plan of rougly 4A @ 12V per 128 cnt string of smart strings.
so plan on 12 to 16A @ 12V
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Can I use the 4 port hub and do not connect the power line.
Then connect the power directly to the 3 SSC's.
Just what is the best way?
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if you're going to power them, why not do it through the power input of the passive hub. I don't see why you would want to reinvent the harness since it's already built, and will do what you need it to do.
if you connect the power to the hub, it gets tied directly to the ssc's anyways (via the cat5 cable)
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Problem is they don't make them that high of amps. If you can find them it cost alot. Were the 4 or 5 amp ones cost very little.
But also would be great If I could get a lot more amps out of it.
Say I can get 3.6v 4 amp converter. Four batterys gives me. 160 amps - 15 % equals about 136 amps.
Gives me alot of room for the amplifier and amp. That's the big draw of current.
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Have you considered a battery operated megaphone with a 3.5mm aux input? Similar to this one http://www.overstock.com/Electronics/Pyle-50-Watts-Professional-Piezo-Dynamic-Megaphone-W-3.5mm-Aux-In-For-Music-iPod/6501922/product.html
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I did conceder a horn type. There loud and you can get them small.
But there sound is not very good. It sounds like announcements when you were in school.
But after being a part of this web site. I think I can do better.
With decent sound and volume the lights will not have the impact they should.
I thnk this site has taken away my mediocriey.
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Another option you may have is a DC to DC power supply such as this one on E-Bay http://tinyurl.com/8r65mnq Which is rated at 200 watts and should provide you with enough clean 12 volt power to run the smart strings.
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That just might work. I hadn't seen one of these.
I have to do some research on it.
I need find out what the parameters of the input are.
1 amp ether way maybe.
Thanks guy
This looks like it will work. If all else fails.
But I still would like to find one that takes between 6.2v to 7.2v to 12v.
Or 3.2v to 3.6v to 12v if I can.
I would like more power if I can get it.
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It all has to do with Hoffman's iron law.
http://www.salksound.com/wp/?p=56
Bass is the key. Med and low bass.
To get good sound out of a small enclosure you have to go with low db senativity.
That means low volume per watt. That means you need more watts to get more volume.
Just had an idea. O no. Can I use four boosters coming out of the battery. Then join the lines together on the out put and into the 4 port hub. Do you think that will work.
Looking at using this booster maybe. Very small.
http://www.prodctodc.com/high-power-dc-4530v-to-0830v-12a-buck-converter-dc-car-power-supply-module-p-160.html
I would have 80 amps - % the booster step up.
Can't find a calulator on line to check output amps after the boost. But I'm thinking 6 amps per booster.
Using two sets batteries of 6.2v to 7.2v.