DiyLightAnimation
Hardware => Lynx Smart String => Topic started by: sittinguphigh on November 27, 2012,
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Have read every thing on this site about firm ware installation.
Have down loaded PICIT-3 program.
Have built SSC v3 with mod.
PICKIT-3 plugged into the PC and SSC.
What are the steps to get the firmware into the SSC?
How do you down load the firm ware to program?
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If you read everything you should have noticed a number of warnings about not using mplab to program. Go to this link and download the programming utility. If you have never done it before you may be asked to update the firmware for the pickit 3 first. Just follow the instructions.
http://www.diylightanimation.com/wiki/index.php?title=Software#PIC_Programming (http://www.diylightanimation.com/wiki/index.php?title=Software#PIC_Programming)
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I use the Pickit3 Stand Alone Programmer Appver 1.0 on that same page above the beta.
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PIC Programming
Pickit2 Stand Alone Programmer Appver 2.61
Pickit3 Stand Alone Programmer Appver 1.0 This one
Pickit3 Stand Alone Utility v3 Beta or this one
MPLAB IDEver 8.86
Check for latest version of Pickit2 Programmer Software
Check for latest version of MPLAB IDE
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PIC Programming
Pickit2 Stand Alone Programmer Appver 2.61
Pickit3 Stand Alone Programmer Appver 1.0 This one
Pickit3 Stand Alone Utility v3 Beta or this one
MPLAB IDEver 8.86
Check for latest version of Pickit2 Programmer Software
Check for latest version of MPLAB IDE
Pickit3 Stand Alone Programmer Appver 1.0 This one
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Here is were I'm at.
PICkit_3_Programmer_1_0_Setup_A (1).zip
http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/PICkit_3_Programmer_1_0_Setup_A.zip
Show in folderRemove from list
I open the file. Go threw the next three stages.
It says it down load. Then nothing in the my PC.
What do I do next?
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Is this what I'M looking for?
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Yes that is what you are looking for. Now you have to import the hex file into the PICkit3 program and then write it to the chip.
Steve
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In the second capture screen shot
See at the top where is says extract all files? Click on that to extract the program from the zip file. When that is done it should open a new window with the real program. Run that program
When the program is running and the pickit3 is connected to the SSC then you have to select the correct PIC, PIC24FJ32GA002 then you can load the hex file you downloaded from the wiki Smart String Controller modded
After that then you click on the write button and the SSC is now flashed with the firmware. Then you need to program it with the Smart String Utility program that RJ wrote.
clear as mud?
:)
Rick R.
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Error message.
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Is this what I'M looking for?
Yes just select the PIC your are programming from the drop down menu in this case PIC24FJ32GA002 then from the 'File' menu select import hex file and select the MOD 3 hex file you downloaded from the WIKI to your computer and then select 'Write' and you should be good to go.
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I always check target power on.
Sent from my Thunderbolt using Tapatalk 2.
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Extract all files is not working. Error message.
Yes just select the PIC your are programming from the drop down menu in this case PIC24FJ32GA002 then from the 'File' menu select import hex file and select the MOD 3 hex file you downloaded from the WIKI to your computer and then select 'Write' and you should be good to go.
Were is the drop down menu?
I always check target power on.
What and were is the target power?
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pickit3 device select drop down is where I put a circle on the screen shot.
Rick R.
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Question:
Are you running the program from the zip file or the exe file? Reason I am asking is one of your screen shots shows a writing error which would happen if your are running inside the zip file.
Rick R.
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I went in to the down load files.
Clicked on show file.
Came to zip file.
Then went to extract all files.
It went into down load mod then went into error message.
I can get the pic 3 screen programming screen but the drop down doesn't work.
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Close the pickit3 program and any open windows that zip file is in.
Then go to your download folder and see if there is a new folder called
PICkit_3_Programmer_1_0_Setup_A
Click on that folder (note: NOT a zip file of the same name) - Normally it has a Yellow icon next to the name
Then run the exe file inside that folder and see if starts working. Also plug in the pickit3 programmer before running the program
Rick R.
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OK did that and down loaded the application.
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I got the file on my desk top.
Now what?
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plugin the pickit3, and then double click the pickit3 program with the red and black icon
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Double clicked and nothing.
So I deleted every thing and started from scratch.
Reloaded pickit 3.
Starts as a compressed zip file
turns to Application
then goes to down load to my desk top.
PC band new i5. Brand new router and modem.
Didn't want any problems so I waited to upgrade to windows 8.
Program not in my control panel.
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Right click on the pickit3 icon and see if there is an option to run as administrator
if not then find the program (right click on the icon again and select "Open file location") and try to right click on it and select run as administrator
Rick R.
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Download to Program - pickit3 application on Windows 8 (64bit)
1.) download (Choose the link before where it says (ver 1.0))
(http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t438/chrisatpsu/01.jpg)
2.) Extract
(http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t438/chrisatpsu/02.jpg)
3.) Open
(http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t438/chrisatpsu/03.jpg)
4.) Install
(http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t438/chrisatpsu/04.jpg)
5.) Open application from Windows Start Panel
(http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t438/chrisatpsu/05.jpg)
6.)
(http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t438/chrisatpsu/06.jpg)
7.) Choose PIC
(http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t438/chrisatpsu/08.jpg)
8.) Import Hex
(http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t438/chrisatpsu/07.jpg)
9.) Write
(http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t438/chrisatpsu/09.jpg)
10.) Done
(http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t438/chrisatpsu/10.jpg)
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OK a little different but let me try that.
Just a note when I went to delete the file it said it was running and couldn't. So I did a restart to delete.
Could it be hidden for some reason?
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it might have been waiting for UAC approval, and somehow didn't show up.
Didn't want any problems so I waited to upgrade to windows 8.
I think I ended up taking this as you now have win8.
if you still have vista or xp, skip the step 5 and go to
START->Programs->Microchip->Pickit3
if you have win7 then go to
Windows Logo-->Programs->Microchip->Pickit3
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I have win 7 right now.
What and were do I find Windows Logo-->Programs->Microchip->Pickit3?
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Windows Logo is the button that used to say start in previous versions
(https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTZtcvandDEXWs7JuNf-qgTaky4nw3PFv-fMxwdo2XAae_Ug6C9)
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Nothing. Maybe it's not extracting the file in the first place. I will turn off my anti virus and try it.
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I closed restarted the PC and it said some thing was running in the back ground.
Maybe this program some how is running under cover.
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No luck.
My head hurts trying to figure this out.
I'm going to get some sleep and start fresh tomorrow.
Thanks for the help.
Mort
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Tried to turn off the computer and it said the pickit3 program was running.
I remember some thing that would hide the program running.
I will check in to that.
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OK. The programming bar came on.
But the drop down bar doesn't work.
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Mort
I think the programing is running but you need to update the pickit operating system going by the message box next to the microchip logo
Click on the Tool menu and see if the last item is not grey out - Click on Download Operations System
Let it run and follow any prompts you get.
Once done then see if the pic drop down works
Rick R.
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I have done that and now it's working right I think.
How do you know the the programming has gone threw and done?
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It normally just takes a second or two and then comes back to the main screen
It doesn't have hey I am done popup box
Hopefully its working now
Rick R.
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No pop up I'm done.
I always check target power on.
What box do you check off.
The red line is still moving forward.
Went to verify and this message can up.
How do you test it?
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How do you know if the firmware went threw on the SSC?
I saw a test mode. I down loaded it. How do you use that?
I saw a verify button on the pickit3. Will that tell you?
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when you load the firmware, there is a checksum that shows up.
if you plug into a ssc that's been programmed, you can "read" the PIC and verify that the checksum matches.
note: after you programmed your start address, the checksum will be different
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I programmed it last night. Turn off my computer.
Can I still go in to it and check it.
I saw some thing in the site about testing the lights and SSC threw THE computer.
I see were the check sum is. What should it say?
Can I plug it in again and check it?
So I plug in the SSC with RGB lights threw the computer.
With the 4 port system and a 12v power.
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You can plug it back in and choose the correct PIC number and choose "Read". The checksums are in the WIKI where you download the firmware from.
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Firmware Checksum
Pickit2 Pickit3
Standard ECE8 ED60
Test 2180 21F8
What one is the check sum?
I have 795A. I guess not programmed correct.
Do I have to delete and reprogram?
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Firmware Checksum
Pickit2 Pickit3
Standard ECE8 ED60
Test 2180 21F8
What one is the check sum?
you're using a pickit3, so disregard the first column.
standard firmware is ED60, and the test firmware is 21F8
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I have 795A check sum. I guess not programmed correct.
Do I have to erase and reprogram?
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Yes. Choose the correct device (number on chip) Check the power checkbox. Erase and watch the text box for a done message. Then import the correct hex file and "Write". The text box will tell you when it is done and the checksum should change to the correct one. Make sure you have followed the correct hardware modification first. Cut trace. Install jumper wire. And have the correct resistor value.
Sent from my Thunderbolt using Tapatalk 2.
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What jumper wire?
The USB wire?
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The check sum says ED60. Doesn't change after reading and verify.
How are you ever going to know if it is the board or software problem?
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ED60 is the correct checksum
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That is the correct checksum for your use. The jumper wire that was being discussed, is the one when doing the SSC3 modification.
When you read from the PIC, it will display the checksum it read from the chip. If this number matches the checksum number in the WIKI, then you have successfully programmed the chip.
Good job you are done with flashing the chip, now you need to load the test software and program the start channel number and all the other data.
Steve
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Wow that was a job.
Like pulling teeth.
Thanks guys for putting up with my none tech mind.
Now on to the rest. OK test program. Is the test program? And if so how do you use it?
Mort
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Use the smart string utility in the mod to program your start channels. You will need the powered hub. And you will need the jumper closed. Choose usb or etherdongle depending on what you use and the smart channel number and how many nodes or rectangle or squares ect and transmit. They should flash the smartstrings white if successful. Then stop transmitting. They will continue to flash. Turn of power supply. Open the jumper and then turn power back on and test with your program of choice.
Sent from my Thunderbolt using Tapatalk 2.
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Have you watched these videos from RJ
http://vimeo.com/16411893
http://vimeo.com/16634121
I believe the second one is the one that will help.
Steve
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I have seen that video.
So to test the SSC and strings.
Software, dongle, computer, SSC, smart strings and program.
Ok. I have to get the etherdongle/conductor firmware programmed.
And then software. Vixen and SSC program of some kind.
OK Thanks
Mort
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Your checksum verifies you have the firmware piece of the ssc done. Next comes setting the start channel and smartstring type via the utility. Lastly comes testing the smartstring either using xlights or the sequencing software you are using whether it be lor, lsp, vixen, ect.. FYI I didn't get a checksum when I programed my etherdongles with either the regular or conductor firmware but you could tell by the values changing in the big box on the lower left that it worked.
Sent from my Thunderbolt using Tapatalk 2.
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Just as a reminder, Once you successfully program the starting channel for the SSC, if you hook it back up the pickit 3 and read it, the checksum will have changed. This is because the start channel is stored in the PIC so changing the starting address will change the checksum.
John
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What firmware do you use for the etherdongle/conductor?
Device Firmware Checksum
EtherDongle Pixelnet ver2 Pickit3 = 0000
EtherDongle DMX Pickit3 = 0000
Conductor Pixelnet Pickit3 = 0000
Conductor [ DMX] Pickit3 = XXXX
Slave [ Pixelnet] Pickit3 = XXXX
Slave [ DMX] Pickit3 = XXXX
Vixen v2.1 Plugin for Pixelnet firmware
Vixen v2.1 Plugin for DMX firmware
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It depends on if you have the conductor. If you do use the conductor firmware. If not use the etherdongle pixelnet. You will need the etherdongle firmware anyway to use the smartstring utility program unless you also have the lynx usb dongle flashed with pixelnet firmware.
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So use this one. Conductor (Pixelnet Pickit3 = 0000)
To program etherdongle/conductor hard ware.
The conductor doesn't have to be connected to program?
That will take care of the etherdongle and conductor firmware both.
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No the conductor does NOT need to be connected to program. As a matter of fact the Conductor card itself has no capability of being programed. It is in very simple terms, information in= information out.
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Ok done.
Now is there a way to test the hardware, SSC and SS lights before going to programming?
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Xlights is the simplest for me, but you will need the Etd flashed pixelnet and no conductor. You also will need your active or passive hub.
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OK. I already have the conductor connected to the etherdongle.
So what can I do now?
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Even though the conductor is connected you can still flash it with the etherdongle pixelnet firware so you can use the smartstring utility to program your ssc's starting channels and smartstring types. And then use it to test all your lights in your show to make sure your sequences will work okay. After testing everything you can then flash it with conductor firmware to run your show.
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I have all hardware flashed.
Down load xlights. It's asking for directory.
What do I use for a directory?
At least a quick on to test.
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The directory is just the file on your computer where Xlights wants to see all of your music and sequences. You can make a folder on your desk top and name it Xlights then select it for the directory. It does NOT have to have any thing in it for the test to work.
You will need to set up your network though.
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OK I see it.
Looks like I have to set it up to pixelnet dongle.
How does that work?
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I don't have it in front of my right now, but on the left of the screen somewhere there should be a selection that will put in 32 universes of 512 channels. Then all you have to set is that you want multicast.
After that you will go to the Test at the top of the screen, select the channels that you want to test, check the output to lights box. On the right there is another box that you can select chase, background ect. You can select the rgb tab if you want to play with colors, but if you just want to turn them on select background and move the slider up and lights should come on. Hope this helps.
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Set up?
What button do I push?
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You want the E131
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OK DONE. What next?
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Select save
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OK DONE
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Now follow my steps above.
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How do you set the multicast?
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You have already done that.
After that you will go to the Test at the top of the screen, select the channels that you want to test, check the output to lights box. On the right there is another box that you can select chase, background ect. You can select the rgb tab if you want to play with colors, but if you just want to turn them on select background and move the slider up and lights should come on. Hope this helps.
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Does using xlight disconnect the internet?
Here is were I am. Next step is what?
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Xlights has not kicked out my internet, but other softwares have so I would not rule it out.
What channels numbers have you programed your SS for?
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I haven't programmed any thing.
The only thing I have done is the xlights.
I have three SS RGB strings. 128 nodes per string.
I still have to hang them on the horse tack.
I have a plan on how to do that.
Measured the tack. 3 inchs between each node.
2 or 3 string should do it.
I'm going to try to use the nutcracker program.
Sean said he can make it work for me.
Do I need to program some thing to test the light and hardware?
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Ok I forgot something that you will need to do first then. What version of the SSC did you build? The V2 Modded to V3?
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Hey Mort,
I just noticed in your post about the internet question. That picture looks like you are running an older version of Xlights. Maybe 2012b and not 2012c. That really won't matter since you are using a conductor, but I thought that I should let you know.
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Here is were I'm at.
Were do I go from here?
I have SSC V3.
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First we need to program your smart strings. Download the Smart String utility from here http://www.diylightanimation.com/wiki/index.php?title=Equipment#Smart_Strings (http://www.diylightanimation.com/wiki/index.php?title=Equipment#Smart_Strings) be sure and download the one for V3. After you get that done I can help with the rest.
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OK. I down loaded this file to my desk top.
Next step please.
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Windows installer if you are running windows? Then just follow the prompts.
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Here it is.
Does this work with vixen?
By itself it doesn't look like it does any thing.
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Ok Double click on the smart String (the one with the Rein Deer) a new window will open.
Then:
1. Connect your Etd to your PC and hub
2. Connect your SS to your hub and to a set of SSs (It does not matter which ones)
3. Change your blue terminal jumper on your ssc to go over both pins that say program
4. Across the top of the SS Utility window you want to select the channel start number for your controller. For example your first controller will say 1 and if you have strings that are 100 nodes your next one will be 301. You will use 3 channels per node.
5. Select EtherDongle at the top
6. Select The direction that you want the strings to run. If you want #1 closest to the controller then leave it at forward. If you want #1 at the end of your string the select backwards
7. Select the number of nodes on your string.
8. Select which type of strings that you are using
9. Select transmit (If everything goes ok your string of lights should start to blink.)
10. Select Stop
11. Unplug your controller from the hub
12. Move the blue jumper that you put on the program terminals and leave on jus 1 terminal.
Now you can test with Xlights.
When you are done it should look something like this.... If you have 100 nodes on a string
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No response.
Windows will not run program.
I have installed NET 4.5
Were do I go from here?
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Mort, you don't want Vixen You want the Smart String utility. If it won't run you may need to install it in it's own folder...not with the vixen files.
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OK
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OK. it's working. Delete all SSC files. Down load in a new file.
Let me go threw the sets now.
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3. Change your blue terminal jumper on your ssc to go over both pins that say program.
Your mean this one?
Here is the SSC utility program I have filled out.
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Blue Jumper in middle photo is the correct way when setting it up then after it is done you will unplug the SSC card then put blue jumper on like last photo.
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Got it. Test time.
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No go commander. The transmitting flash on but go blinky.
When first hooked up the battery I saw the light blink once.
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No go commander. The transmitting flash on but go blinky.
When first hooked up the battery I saw the light blink once.
Well the quick blink is at least a sign that there is power coming from the hub.
You did program the SSC with the V3modded firmware correct?
AND the Active hub Firmware....
AND the Etd Firmware for pixelnet...... You do NOT want the conductor firmware loaded yet.
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I'm using the passive 4 port hub.
I down load the conductor firmware to the etherdongle/conductor.
The conductor firmware program will that take care of both the etherdongle and the conducter firmware?
Will the testing work with the conductor firmware installed?
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The conductor firmware will not allow you to use the Etd as an Ethernet dongle. All you need to do is install the pixelnet firmware on the Etd, then you can go back and reinstall the conductor firmware after we get your SSCs programed.
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So the firmware etherdongle and conductor are not used together.
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There are just 2 different firmwares. A lot of people are just using the Etd as an ether dongle to run their show. With the conductor attached it is more of a stand alone unit. Make sense?
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No luck transmission flash but no blinky.
What's next?
I will redue the firmware for the etherdongle to start?
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yes, for now, change etherdongle firmware for pixelnet etherdongle
when your ehterdongle has the pixelnet etherdongle firmware.
it responds to the computer, and you can program your ssc's, etc....
when the etherdongle has the conductor firmware, it no longer responds to the computer except for the special software that only sets up your shows.
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No luck.
Now what?
On the etherdongle just to make sure what is the input and out connects?
In the pictures does every thing look alright? Wiring OK?
Change SS and SSC lights around with different port.
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Input on the dongle is the top silver one.
I believe they are suggesting to start with unplugging everything and re-flash the etherdongle with the pixelnet etherdongle firmware.
http://diylightanimation.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=5765.0;attach=7980
Once you have flashed it. Then we will go to the next step.
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Lets go to the set before that. Down loading operating system.
Make sure I have that right.
Hey what's the button on the pickit-3 for?
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Staring the programming of the pickit-3 and then program the firmware for the etherdongle.
Pickit-3 programming 1.0
Pixelnet pickit-3 ver 2.0
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The button is for using a different program. You do not have to worry about it.
Yes those are the correct software.
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This happened when I tried to down load pickit-3 programming ver 1.0.
It would down load without putting a all files.
Then this error message came up.
It gave a choice to stop or bypass the error message.
Is this normal.
Have to go take care of business be back in a couple hours.
Thanks
Mort
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If you have already flashed your SSC and Etd then you should not nee to load the Pic 3 Program again. look in you program files on your start menu. For Microchip and see if the Pic3 program is in there.
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Yes it flashed.
I will reprogram the etherdongle again.
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Programmed etherdongle again.
Programmed SSC again.
No blinky.
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OK. Got a error message.
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Make sure you have the blue jumper still on the SSC (like photo below)
then plug it into your hub.
Plug the hub into the black connector on dongle, power hub on.
plug in your etherdongle to the computer (power it on) and then start the Lynx Smart String Utility (like photo Below) on you computer.
Select all the settings you need for instance start channel, etherdongle the amount of nodes.
Press "Transmit", once you press transmit your strings should be blinking. Now press "Stop"
Now unplug SSC from hub and put jumper like 3rd photo down.
Plug SSC back into hub and you should now be able to use Xlights to have blinky.
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OK. Got a error message.
You got that error because you don't have ether dongle set at the top of the Smart String Utility page. You NO NOT want the usb selected.
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Got it. I thought I had to do something with the USB SERIAL PORT PROPERTIES?
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Got it. I thought I had to do something with the USB SERIAL PORT PROPERTIES?
You don't want to mess with any of that. You are not using anything through a usb port! Leave all of that stuff alone.
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OK. No blinky. I recheck all three boards solder connections. Found two not done. Soldered them in.
Still no blinky. The connects were on the input of the etherdongle silver connector.
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When you plug the Etd into your computer do the have lights where the Cat5 goes into the Etd? As you are looking at it with the one on the right should be on solid and the one on the left should be blinking a little.
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Both lights are on. None are blinking.
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Where does the Cat5 cable go from your Etd?
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Into the 4 port passive hub.
I read that that there are update firmware ver for the SSC and SSC utility.
Maybe I don't have the right ones.
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Hey Mort
I see the wire that you have used to do the mod for Ver3 SSC, but i can not tell by your photo's. Did you cut the trace on the SSC board?
You also replaced the EXE file for the utility program for version 3, Correct???
Steve
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I did cut the SSC board. I wonder if I did cut deep enough. I thought I cut it deep. I could use a dremel.
Just to make sure on the programming send me the place to go to to get the correct firmwares and SSC UTILITY program. All the programs I have used. Just to make sure I have all the new updated programming.
Being limited on soldering. I am very picky. If any thing I could of over heat the soldering points.
Be very precise about the steps I should take. Do not leave any thing out.
I will go over the step one by one. I have been over the board about 20 times already.
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Into the 4 port passive hub.
I read that that there are update firmware ver for the SSC and SSC utility.
Maybe I don't have the right ones.
Mort let's do one thing at a time here. Where does the Cat5 wire that goes into the silver plug on you Etd come from? You said that the light on the left was on solid. It should not be solid on.
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Is there a way to test each part itself.
I have a express that works. I could test the etherdongle that way.
Then a least I would know if the problem is with the etherdongle.
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The cat5e goes from the computer to the silver input on the etherdongle.
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So there is nothing between the computer and the Etd Correct? Ok most likely you will need what is called a cross over cat5 cable.
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Correct. Just the cat5e cable between the computer and the etherdongle.
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To bad we didn't have a way to test each piece of hardware on it's own.
How about you send me all the software I need in a file. No mistakes there.
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In post number 109 it looks like the etherdongle firmware did not take. You shouldn't see all those FFFF's. Read that chip again and see if you see something else in that big window. Remember the power checkbox.
Sent from my Thunderbolt using Tapatalk 2.
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I will reprogram the etherdongle and post the results.
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In post number 109 it looks like the etherdongle firmware did not take. You shouldn't see all those FFFF's. Read that chip again and see if you see something else in that big window. Remember the power checkbox.
Sent from my Thunderbolt using Tapatalk 2.
Good catch...You are correct.
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Her is all the results of programming the etherdongle.
The etherdongle2 hex program will not let me open it up.
Don't know if that's a big deal?
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Have to take of the horses be back.
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Are you doing "file" "import" and then choosing the etherdongle hex file ? Also make sure the target power box on is checked before writing. All those FFFF's should change to other values or you have an etherdongle problem.
Sent from my Thunderbolt using Tapatalk 2.
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I go to file and click and click again on import hex.
That's when some thing funny happens. It goes to a blank file.
I have to find the file and click on it.
Maybe it's not picking it up at all.
Horses needs attending. Be back.
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After opening the Pickit 3 programmer program, select the device you want to work with (correctly selected in your screenshot, PIC32MX795F512L).
On the top left, select 'file' and 'import hex' in the submenu.
Navigate to your download directory, where the EtherDongle2.hex file is, and select that file. Import it.
The hexadecimal values in the big window underneath the commands should change and the first line should read:
1D000000 0F403CBB 00000000 0F404333 00000000
Make sure you apply power to the chip when you program it.
Don't try to write it if you cannot get past the import. If you only see FFFFFFFF values, the import didn't work.
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Got it.
-
OK that's completed.
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No blinky. I reprogrammed the SSC also.
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You didn't get a screenshot of reading the etherdongle.
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When you program the PICs (either the etherdongle one or the SSC one), do you select the checkbox to power the device in the pickit3 programmer software?
When you use the smart string utility, what type of SSC is attached to your system (v1, v2 or did you do the mod for v3)?
When you programmed the SSC with the smart string utility, what type of light string was attached to it, and did you have the jumper on the SSC itself closed?
Also how was your system connected? A (somewhat) standard connection for what you are trying to do would be:
PC->EtherDongle->active HUB->SSC->light string
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Here is the copy of the programming both ED and SSC.
I used the ver 3.
Smart strings RGB 128 nodes.
PC to ETHERDONGLE to PASSIVE 4 PORT to SSC ver3 to 128 smart strings RGB.
Yes I had the SSC blue jumper connected together when programming.
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I am unfamiliar with the 4 port passive. I think you may need an active hub in there to supply power to the ssc.
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Some more business to take care of tonight.
Talk to you later.
Thanks for all the help.
Never give up.
Has any one ever used the 4 port hub with out the active hub?
Still the etherdongle lights not blinking.
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Maybe it's time for some one to ask RJ. He said it would work.
Quote from: sittinguphigh on July 22, 2012,
OK
One Smart String Passive 4 port hub.
Four Smart String Controller V2.
A Pixelnet EtherDongle. When and if another one comes available this year.
4 128 smart RGB smart strings.
One conductor.
Sorry
Thanks
Mort
Correct
RJ
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Just a note. Out of a internet module you can't spit the signal. The router has to do it. Is this different.
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Just a note. Out of a internet module you can't spit the signal. The router has to do it. Is this different.
Not sure what you mean there, Do you have a port on the back of your internet router?
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Here is what the wiki says about the 4 port passive-Common Use: Pixelnet splitter from the output of the 16 port hub. So you need either the 16 port active hub or 16 port passive hub. the passive hub would just act as a massive pixelnet splitter. the active hub allows independant functionality of each string. Either of those 2 hubs would give power to the ssc's via a computer power supply. The 4 port alone can't.
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The four port passive hub while not exactly designed for this purpose will work, you just need to supply the 12v to the input terminals. I've programmed, tested, and ran a small July 4th display without an active hub. Hope this helps!
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Yes, the 4 ports passive HUB will work, but really need the 12V DC to get in (and be powered).
If you want to make sure your strings are working and the HUB is correctly powered, it seems you are now a master of programming those PICs chips. So go ahead, and install the test firmware for the SSC v3 and if the string is correctly powered, the lights should start to be ON (pattern depends on having the jumper closed or opened).
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I hate to ask this but….
Do we know if the fuses are good on the 4 port hub?
Also the SSC have to be on universe #1 since there are no jumpers. Channels 1 - 4096 would be fine
Rick R.
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Guys, My worry to all of this is can the SS be configured with a 4 port passive hub? I know it will drive the string, but will it let you program your SS with it....For it to drive a string all you need is the Pixelnet input and the 12 volt power source. The SSC is what decifers the code not the hub. The power source has been something that Mort has been working on for a few months now. Does any one have one that they can try to program a string with? I would have to build one and do not have the time right now.
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If the voltage flows through the HUB, the test firmware will confirm it. The SSC itself receives the packets from the (modified) ethernet cable. The content of the packets are deciphered by the software running on the PIC. If the jumper is closed, the PIC modifies its internal storage to configure the string. If it is open, it translates those packets to something the nodes can 'understand'. This is all done at the SSC level, not the HUB. Having the test firmware running on the SSC is not going to break anything, but it will tell us if the string(s) are receiving the power they are supposed to. That would be one step forward, getting us very close to having some (controlled) blinking lights over there. The turnaround to just get there is a few minutes, worth it when we don't have direct access to the system itself.
If it works, then yeah, there might be other hurdles we will have to go through to get past the passive HUB. If it doesn't, we will zero in on the power injunction.
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I'm only using one string so I don't think the hub would be a problem. Four maybe.
I 'm using a 12.8v battery for a battery sorce. Unless that is to much.
I didn't have power to the SSC when programming. Is that needed?
I don't know if you noticed the SSC utility changed profile. It has a grouping choice.
I have a small electrical meter I can use to check power.
If there is some one in the area that has smart strings that work. I could insert each piece in a working system to see what not working.
I found these in the Smart string MOD page. The last one I have no idea about.
Are these correct?
Smart+String+Controller+modded.hex (123.78 kB - downloaded 214 times.)
Smart+String+Utility.zip (338.69 kB - downloaded 161 times.)
SSC+V1+and+V2+Mod.doc (132 kB - downloaded 192 times.)
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Yes, you need the 12V flowing there when you are programming the SSC (not when programming the firmware, but when programming the channels configuration).
It seems you have all the correct software, just make sure you have the 12V hooked up when programming the SSC and you should be good to go.
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Great
Thanks
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No blinky.
You said that the lights on the etherdongle should be blinking.
Well both lights on and nether are blinking.
It would help to isolate each item and see what ones are working.
It seems that the etherdongle may be the problem.
I have a working regulater dongle. Why don't I use that. Reprogram it to pixelnet and see if it works.
How I find people in my area that my be willing to help me if it comes to that.
This was with in the SSC mod on the SMART STRING section of the DLA site.
Make sure you use the new utility program that is provided to program your modified SSC's. You only have to replace the exe file with one provided no new installed needed.
RJ
Does that mean I have to go into old SSC utility and take the exe file out and replace with the one in this SSC UTILITY file?
Smart+String+Controller+modded.hex (123.78 kB - downloaded 217 times.)
Smart+String+Utility.zip (338.69 kB - downloaded 163 times.) ***************************************
SSC+V1+and+V2+Mod.doc (132 kB - downloaded 198 times.)
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The correct files are here http://diylightanimation.com/index.php?topic=9752.0 The test firmware referenced above is the 6th post down. Reprogram your ssc with the test firmware to see if the ssc is getting the power it needs.
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On Reply #140 the etherdongle screenshot state reading from device, but the SSC States that it is erasing device? Is the SSC programmed or is it erased?
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You are sending power through the hub correct? It might help if you posted a picture or a diagram of how you have things hooked up from the etherdongle through to the lights. I only say that since I believe at one point in this project you were talking about injecting your power in the line instead of through the hub or some such.
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I eraser first then program the boards. Message 312 is up to date program.
Does any one think I should use the my regular dongle that works and program it to pixelnet.
This way we can see if there is any problem with the etherdongle.
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Sure
Sent from my Thunderbolt using Tapatalk 2.
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The computer connects to the etherdongle.
The etherdongle is connected to the 4 port hub and to dc power cord.
The 4 port hub is connect with battery power.
4 port hub connects the SSC.
The SSC connects to the smart string lights.
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I think you need to reverse your Ethernet cables. The socket with the leds on it goes to the computer. The one without goes to the passive hub.
Sent from my Thunderbolt using Tapatalk 2.
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The cable you have going to the passive hub should be in the other plug in the dongle and the cable from the computer goes to the silver one on dongle
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Sorry. I set it up for the picture wrong. Moving to quick.
Color blindness smart string wire connection to water proof connection.
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If after flashing he test firmware on the ssc, there is no light, you have to check that the power is working. With the test firmware the dongle doesn't matter. If no lights it's either your power not working, or the ssc being bad.
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Or the nodes are backward. The big chip side is the input side.
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The nodes are back wards? Are the smart string directional?
OK.
We need to start testing one thing at a time I think.
Computer band-new computer- I can't think any reason this would be the problem
etherdongle- I have a working dongle I used with a express I could flash to pixelnet and test the system with that.
4 port hub- What's a easy to test this
SSC- don't know any way to test this.
smart strings-can theses be tested on there own
cat5e- bought them from monoprice-I don't think these could be bad.
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The nodes are back wards? Are the smart string directional?
YES
Rick R.
Probably the reason the wiki chart lists the direction of each device. Label as Input Side
http://www.diylightanimation.com/wiki/index.php?title=Equipment#Nodes.28Lights.29_Info_.26_Order_Chart
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What's the big chip side. The large black chip in input. I have to redue two. But the one I'm using is correct.
So that's not the problem.
The battery is charge.
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Have you tried the test firmware on your SSC?
If not, please do so.
Once it is flashed on the PIC of the SSC, we will be able to narrow down what the problem can be.
If after flashing it, and applying power to the SSC, the lights are lighting, then the problem will be upstream.
If there is no lights after flashing it, we will focus on the SSC itself, the light string and the power. One of those would be bad.
So make sure you downloaded the test firmware for SSC v3.
Open your PIC programmer program, and reprogram the PIC on the SSC after importing the test firmware (as we did last night, make sure you apply power to the device by checking the 3.3V check box, and that you have selected the correct PIC in the drop down menu for devices)
Once it is programmed, make sure the battery is connected to your SSC and that it is outputting the correct voltage.
At that point, the lights on the string should be doing some things, i.e., they would not be OFF.
Please report the steps you took, and the result you are seeing.
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OK. Program SSC with the test firmware ver 3. Once I find that. Then use pickit-3 to test the smart strings. Not sure how that is done. By clicking on the power button for 3.3 volts. I think your talking about the power button on the pickit-3.
Do I program the SSC hook up to the 12v power supple?
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For the test firmware, you only need to apply power, there is no data involved...it is programmed into the firmware. This will let you see if the lights, controller, and power are correctly connected.
Good luck,
-Keith
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Once you have programmed the SSC with the test firmware, you can unplug the pickit3 from the SSC.
The test itself (the lights lighting) will start as soon as you apply the 12V power to the SSC. The only connections that you will need to see if the test is working are:
-Your power supply (12V battery in your case) to the HUB
-HUB to the SSC using a cat5 cable
-Light string to the SSC
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We have lights ;D.
All right. Things are looking up. That means the smart strings are ok. Right. power is OK to.
Only one hub connection is not working. I only need three this year. I will fix it later.
The hub is ok to. Just the one fuse needs to be replaced.
Now is there a test of the SSC.
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Good, it means that the communication between the SSC and the light string is working correctly, and the the HUB is correctly powering the SSC.
Now put back the regular firmware on the SSC, and keep it connected to the HUB (the HUB itself powered by the battery)
Once it is reflashed, start the 'smart string utility', close the jumper on the SSC and configure the SSC with the values you want to use.
Once you ready to go, push the button, and the light should be blinking white if the initialization of the SSC worked.
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So you want me to reconnect the etherdongle again? Right
Done No blinky.
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What steps did you take?
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OK. I disconnected the etherdongle kept the power on the 4 port hub.
Did the SSC test.
The all the lights stayed on.
Reprogram the SSC to the ver3 mod.
Reconnected the ethernet.
Use the SSC utility program to do a test.
Failed the test
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To program the SSC with the starting channel and configuration info, you will need to reconnect everything like you show in your picture from reply 164. Basically, you have it set like you are ready to run a show.
- Temporarily unplug the controller from the hub.
- Move the jumper to the program position (jumper on both pins).
- Plug the string back into the hub.
- Configure the utility program like you need the lights (hybrid, string, starting channel, etc.).
- Hit transmit. The lights should flash white.
- Hit stop.
- Unplug the lights from the hub
- Move the jumper so that is not on both pins (I store mine by having it on just one pin)
- Plug string/SSC back into hub
This will program the lights to your parameters and you should now be ready to use them in your show.
Good luck,
-Keith
P.S. Is your etherdongle flashed/programmed with Conductor firmware or etherdongle firmware? I don't know if you can program the lights with the etherdongle if it is programmed with conductor firmware.
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Ok let they that.
When you down load firmware were should the jumper on the SSC board?
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The jumper doesn't effect the Pickit3 programming (adding/removing) of the firmware on the PIC on the SSC
The jumper is only used (both pin jumped together) when making changes to the SSC (start address, node type, node qty, etc)
The Jumper is off when running the SSC (lights blinking)
Rick R.
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OK. Thanks
What are the readings on the SSC utility program.
Is this correct?
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They look good to me. Your start channel for the string will be 1 and they are using hybrid mode. If that is your configuration, then your settings are correct.
-Keith
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Make sure your start channel matches what is in your sequencing software for those lights. And change the node count to however many lights are on your string. With the way your settings are now channels 1,2, and 3 will be all red, all green, and all blue and the individual node control begins on channel 4.
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I have no idea what you said Kieth.
I'm just trying to fix the system first. Nothing works right now.
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No go guys. No blinky.
Maybe the next step would be to plug in my working dmx dongle and express to make sure the computer is working fine.
Then reprogram my dongle for pixelnet and hook it up. That way we can see if computer and etherdongle is OK.
We already know the strings are OK.
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Yes, let us know how it goes with the USB dongle.
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OK guys. I take it by the silience nobody knows what to do.
I have hooked up my DMX dongle and express that works.
I just a need a little help adjusting the COMP.
This is a new computer and I have forgotten how I
match up the USB port.
I have down loaded FTDI USB drivers.
Things went different then the on line instructions.
Hopefully I did it right.
Can't get past matching up the comp USB port.
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This is the error messages.
I have seq. lights to music set up from last year.
All ready to test my computer.
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Let me know what to do?
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Looks like the Dongle is COM3. In Vixen configure the output plug in for 115200, 8 bits no parity one stop bit.
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Like this.
Still have error messages.
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Be sure that DMX is not selected in ADD-INS
What error are you getting? Exit and restart Vixen too.
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Did that already. Still not working.
Same errors as above 189 post.
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I'm using my new HP printer cable for the dongle for the input.
Is that the right one/
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Where you were in first picture below. Select the COM3 dongle and in the second picture change the Bits per Second to 115200 and when you open Vixen make sure you still have the dongle connected and you should be good to go.
Steve
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I changed that after I sent out the picture.
I read that the wrong USB port cable can cause this problem.
Is that true?
I'm using my printer USB cable. Should I get a high speed USB cable.
Can the wrong cat5e cable cause a problem to? This is the one I'm using.
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10208&cs_id=1020802&p_id=9545&seq=1&format=2
This is the USB cable I'm using.
http://www.shopping.hp.com/en_US/home-office/-/products/Accessories/Cables/CA0346?HP-USB-12-ES-USB-Cable-Adapter
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Sorry, but I believe you have to turn off the entec USB DMX and add the PixelNet plugin and configure it the same as the Entect USB (Com3, 115200 bits per second).
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Yep, that is correct. Select the pixelnet plugin instead of the DMX one. If you don't have that plugin, get it from
http://diylightanimation.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3554.0;attach=6342
Put that file in your (Vixen directory on your computer)\Plugins\Output folder. If it is not already there, you will have to close and restart Vixen for it to show up after you put it there.
Try that and see where you get.
-Keith
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OK Guys. Were are you now?
Right now I'm trying to get the DMX system (DMX DONGLE AND EXPRESS) up to test the computer and to see if the etherdongle could be the problem.
Are you guys back to The pixelnet system (etherdongle/conductor, HUB, SSC and smart string).
No one has let me know about the correct cables yet.
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The Cables should be fine. Sorry I forgot that you were testing the LE.
Have you made the correct setting in the device manager for the dongle ?
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For the DMX system I have made all the correct setting.
Double checked with the on line video to.
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And you are still getting the errors in vixen?
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Yes. I thought it might be the USB cable.
Mine USB cable is not high speed.
There has been post on this problem.
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Do I need a 2.0 usb cable. I don't have one.
In past post this has cause this the same problem.
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any new cable you find now in a store would be 2.0 or better.
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Ok so when you unplug the dongle from the computer, do you hear the noise when a USB device is unplugged? Also once it is unplugged from the computer go into your device manager and make sure the dongle has disapeared from the Ports (COM & LPT).
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Then I'm dead in the water then. If it isn't the cables. That was the only thing left.
The DMX system should work. It doesn't
I can't connect to the USB port to test it.
All the computer usb com drivers are in.
Still nothing.
I don't know what else to do.
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Yes the dongle com port disappears when unplugged.
I don't hear a noise from the DMX dongle when unplugged.
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You mentioned that you knew the USB dongle was working. Last time you used it, were you also using the cable that you are using today? If yes, the cable should not be the problem, especially if you were using it for other purposes lately (your printer).
SJB asked if your system was responding to plugging (or unplugging) the dongle from the computer. When you do so, you should hear a little jingle coming out of the speakers of your computer. I do not remember of hand, and have no way to test it right now, but isn't there a LED on the dongle that shows if it is powered? (if there is, is it lighting up when you connect the dongle)
Keep the device manager opened when you plug/unplug the dongle and see if it shows/disappears when you plug it/unplug it.
Is the dongle currently connected to the LE? If yes, is the LED on the LE lit? (the 3rd one, the one closest to the edge of the board)
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All the led lights are on. Both the dongle and LE. Yes the com port going away and comes back when unplugging the dongle.
I used this USB cable for my printer.
This is a different USB cable then I used last year for the DMX system.
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Ok, so we know that the computer see's the dongle.
So, like you said we are at a point where we can not remember what has been done, so lets start with the dongle and the LE.
Now I can not recall have you flashed the dongle back to DMX if so can you read the pic with your PICKit3 and tell us what the checksum is.
Steve
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the cable is fine. It carries the information to your PC, back and forth, as the dongle is recognized by the PC.
Have you tried to test the LE with xlights? I am not using Vixen myself, so I won't be able to help you as far as the configuration is concerned. As far as I can understand the issues you are running into, I don't see any of them that scream 'hardware issue'. I think there might be a configuration step that is not taking or not entered correctly, and that it is blocking your system at the moment. It will be hours before I get back to my system, and can help you more, but I am sure that someone else, with knowledge in Vixen, can get you out of this in no time.
Right now, there might be too many cooks in your kitchen, and it's pretty hard to follow where we are at any given time.
If you get xlights up and running, it should be pretty simple to test the system, especially with the LE, as you won't even need to have lights attached to the system (the same would be true using Vixen)
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OK. I decided to follow the video on how to test your system out from Vixen.
The lights on the dongle came on and faded up and down.
I was using the sequences I made in 2010.
Maybe there is a problem with the older program
or I have to do something with the sequences
with changing computers.
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So you have started Vixen with the dongle plugged in and it does not give you any errors?
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Correct. So I have to assume the dongle is OK.
Maybe some thing wrong with the older program.
Or I have to update some thing with the older sequences when changing computers.
I started out with a whole new vixen down load program and did the test.
Well know the next set is. What do I need to reprogram the DMX dongle to pixelnet dongle.
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No the next step is to plug the dongle into your LE and run the test console in vixen to confirm the dongle is talking to the LE.
Steve
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Dongle and LE are connected. lights on LE going on. Dimming is working also.
Do I need to run a sequence?
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OK, now disconnect dongle from LE and download the Pixelnet firmware for usb dongle at below link and import it into your PICKit 3 and then write it to the dongle. Once it is written to dongle read the PIC from The PICKit3 software and let us know what the checksum is.
http://diylightanimation.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3554.0;attach=6049
Steve
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You gave me the wrong link.
How do I down load the firmware into the dongle.
I have a pickit-3. I don't see any way to hook it up to the dongle.
I had some one else do it last time.
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The link should bring up a download screen to save the firmware to your computer. Save it to a location you will remember and once you have downloaded it, we will walk you through the writing part.
Steve
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You have to use a stand-alone adapter like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ICSP-Adapter-ZIF-28-pin-PIC-use-with-PICkit-2-or-3-/230432414015?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35a6d7993f
since there is no program header.
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If you don't have an adapter like that or two PIC chips...one programmed with DMX & one programmed with pixelnet...then you are stuck with one or the other...which in your case appears to be DMX since you can run your LE.
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I have the download pixelnet dongle in a file.
Do I need any thing else I need besides the pickit-3.
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Sorry, I forgot about needing the adapter that lonewolf41 mentions.
Do you have this adapter?
Because if not we will have to go back to the Etherdongle and work with it.
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This time of the year If I order it no telling when it will get here.
I will have to see if I can find one local.
If not forget about this year.
How do you find people in my area.
If I can find some one that has a running system.
They can just switch the parts around to test them.
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On the map tmcteer is in Huntington Beach. Not sure what they have and if this is close. Maybe PM them and see.
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I apologize if this has already been done, but have you programmed the etherdongle with DMX firmware to see if it can control the LE? That would verify that the ED is in fact working correctly. I am not sure if that was ever determined or not.
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Lonewolf I didn't see your post tell I came back to post that very thought.
That's a good idea I think. That would speed things up to.
If I lucky it will be OK.
Is there any problems with this any one.
Is there any thing I need to know?
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No com port with etherdongle. What you use for plugin? Open DMX?
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E1.31
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What ones of these do I need?
Lynx EtherDongle.dll (28 kB - downloaded 480 times.)
EtherDongle_DMX.hex (1473.91 kB - downloaded 386 times.)
EtherDongle_PixelNet.hex (1473.91 kB - downloaded 99 times.)
Lynx+EtherDongle.dll (28 kB - downloaded 400 times.)
EtherDongle2.hex (1473.91 kB - downloaded 455 times.)
»
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I'm using vixen DMX etherdongle with LE.
Can you do this without a combiner?
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You would flash the ED with EtherDongle_DMX.Hex and use the Lynx EtherDongle.dll plugin in Vixen 2.1
I'd also pull off the conductor while doing these tests.
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How do you download this to use it in the plugin?
Do you insert it into the vixen file?
Lynx+EtherDongle.dll (28 kB - downloaded 400 times.)
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I took off the conductor to make sure every looks OK. Any one see some thing wrong.
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I see many places where the solder didn't flow through to the top side of the board. Since there are traces on the top of the board as well as the bottom of the board I would apply more solder on those components either from the bottom of the board or the top of the board until you see the a good connection between the component and the trace on top of the board.
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How do you download this to use it in the plugin?
Do you insert it into the vixen file?
Lynx+EtherDongle.dll (28 kB - downloaded 400 times.)
that file goes in the Vixen folder in the /plugin/output
Rick R.
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see many places where the solder didn't flow through to the top side of the board. Since there are traces on the top of the board as well as the bottom of the board I would apply more solder on those components either from the bottom of the board or the top of the board until you see the a good connection between the component and the trace on top of the board.
+1
Also looks like some cold solder joints as well. There is a ST485BN chip ( the black ones ) that is not seated correctly. The second one in.
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See the attached graphic...it is from the wiki. The item circled in red is the firmware that you use to flash your etherdongle to output DMX. The one circled in blue is the one you drop in your /plugin/output folder as Rick stated. It should then show up in your list of available output plugins. Highlight it and select Use. It should move to the right side. I am not sure how to set it up past there as I have not used the ED in this mode, but it looks like there is no configuration other than channels...which would be all of them just like pixelnet.
Something I noticed is it appears that both plugins (pixelnet & DMX) have the same name in the plugin list when you go to select it in Vixen so I would delete the existing one from your output folder so that when you put the DMX one in there, you know that you are selecting the correct one; otherwise, I am not sure how you would know that you picked the right one to use.
-Keith
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How do you download this to use it in the plugin?
Do you insert it into the vixen file?
Lynx+EtherDongle.dll (28 kB - downloaded 400 times.)
You don't want that version for DMX the DMX version of that plugin has no + in the name just a space.
It goes in the plugin\output folder in vixen. Then when you setup a show for testing you assign the channels you add to it.
If I were you I'd keep the conductor off until you make sure the Etherdongle is running either DMX or Pixelnet sucessfully. No sense complicating things, the route you are going now once it talks to your old LE, I'd then swap the firmware for pixelnet version and to the Vixen ED pixelnet plugin and talk to the SSC. Then once you see all that working make the hop to reflashing the ED to conductor and putting the conductor board back in.
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having both plugins will lead to confusion in vixen, as they both are named the same when you choose it from inside the program.
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Is the set up and testing correct?
Is there a light that should be on at the MagicJack?
The channel lights are not on at the LE doing testing.
Will go over solder points.
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When you are in the test channel in Vixen did you click on Select ALL?
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Yes they all went blue.
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Your setup looks good. When you plug the network cable from the computer into the dongle (at the Magjack), the green light on the dongle jack should come on. If it doesn't, then you are not getting communication from the computer to the dongle.
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If it is an older computer, there is the possibility that it will require a cross-over cable rather than a straight through cable from the computer to the dongle. There are quite a few postings on that possibility. Do a search in the Etherdongle section for crossover and you should find lots of results. I know I have an older laptop that would not work with a regular cable. As soon as I plugged a crossover cable in, the green light came on. Definitely try a different regular cable first though.
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Could there be some thing wrong with the cat5e connection inside the computer.
Software or hardware?
If I got this right when plugging in the cat5e to the dongle without any power to the dongle a light should come on on the MagicJack? The power should be from the computer?
I have a brand new i5 computer.
Can we test the cat5e output some how?
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Can you get on the internet using that cable with your wireless disabled (if you have wireless). On xp machines it will try to get an ip address when you attach the etherdongle but after awhile will say limited connection. This is normal. Win7 machines will say unknown network. The etherdongle has its own power adapter.
Sent from my Thunderbolt using Tapatalk 2.
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So you are saying that the power adapter has to be plugged in for the MagicJack light to come on?
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Yes, you need the power applied to the etherdongle for the lights to come on.
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The light on the MagicJack in not coming on.
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OK, that means you are not getting communication to the dongle from the computer. It sounds like your computer is fairly new so I doubt you are needing a cross-over cable as that usually applies to older equipment. Another check (I think) is if you have a router for internet or wireless networking, you can plug the etherdongle into one of the ports in that and see if the green light comes on. If it still does not, I believe you have an issue with your etherdongle.
I have an extra regular dongle that is flashed with pixelnet that I wouldn't mind letting you borrow if it would help you out this year.
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OK. Here we go. The light on the right side on the MagicJack is coming on when I plugged the ED into the router.
So the problem is in my computer then. Softwear or hardware? The fact I just got this computer maybe thee is a set up I missed to do with the cat5e.
This is a mobile unit I have to get the conductor working.
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OK, that is good. Ed may not be dead after all. Unfortunately, networking issues get over my head pretty quickly. It might be worth trying a cross-over cable though if you can find or build one. If you have a different computer, you could try that as well to see if it will communicate with the ED long enough to get you tested. You don't have to install any software yet, just hook the Ed up to the other computer and see if the lights come on. If they do, you might try using that computer to test your setup out. Also, if the computer you have been using has wireless, you might try disabling that and waiting a minute or so and then plug the ED into it again. It might be sending all traffic out the wireless connection instead of the port. That change should cause it to send all the traffic out the port instead and might help. Won't hurt anything anyway.
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I plugged in the ED to a old laptop that need a new power plug. Keep turning off. That solid light on the right hand side of the MagicJack is coming on.
The light on the computer cat5e comes on when I plug it in.
The crossover cable is from USB to cat5e connection?
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Lonewolf41 can it not be tested through the router or does it have to be connected straight into the computer?
Is your computer a laptop or a desktop? How is your computer hooked up to the internet (cable or Wireless)?
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A crossover cable is still a CAT5 cable, it just has some wires "crossed over" on one end where it enters the plug.
SJB is right though, we can try it hooked up to the router. Usually, connecting through a router introduced extra issues for troubleshooting, but it your case, maybe it will help solve some. Try hooking the Ed to a port on your router and connecting your computer to a different port on the same router and lets see if we can't get them to talk.
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Wireless connection. Don't have a long enough cable to hook up hard wire.
I do believe you have to the VIXEN, SSC utility or some kind of software to test?
I have to say there some thing wrong with my PC. Soft ware or hard wear.
I could call Acer and see if they can fix it.
Or go and get a new power cord for my lap top.
Or do a cross over from USB to cat5e.
The fact that I'm not getting any thing threw the cat5e cable means I can't use the cat5e at all?
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Try wireless. It should still work.
As far as your other computer not talking to the ED, it is most likely a setting, not necessarily the computer. If it is new, most likely the manufacturer has put so much garbage on it to protect you from yourself, it may be limiting the ability to broadcast the correct, or any, data to the ED. If you can talk to the ED wirelessly and we can get lights blinking through the router, then we can work on the connection issue and probably someone else will have to help you there as I am network challenged. Maybe this will at least get the computer talking to the ed talking to the lights.
Should have answered the rest of your question...you will need something to test with. Vixen will work fine for that just like you did earlier today with the test channel function.
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Does the computer say it is detecting anything when you attach the etherdongle? Whether you can use the router depends on if it supports multicast.
Sent from my Thunderbolt using Tapatalk
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The router could still be a problem, but let's cross our fingers. If it works, then we will know for sure. So now your setup will be ED plugged into your router. LE plugged into your ED. Use Vixen to see if you can make the channels on the LE blink.
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I just talked to Acer they just rebooted the system when I first bought the PC. It will take 30 mins.
I understand what you are talking about. I'm on my lap top right now. But it goes dead at times. Bad power cable.
The ED seems to work on the laptop.
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Just to clear up some assumptions before anything gets more murky
Or do a cross over from USB to cat5e.
No. A crossover cable is special a network cable that has one end flipflopped on the send/receive pairs. This was required in old days to go from PC to PC without a hub or switch inbetween. If the network card in the show PC is old enough you might need one to talk to the Etherdongle without a switch, hub, or router inbetween them.
for example http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10232&cs_id=1023202&p_id=2375&seq=1&format=2
The fact that I'm not getting any thing threw the cat5e cable means I can't use the cat5e at all?
Not necessarily. If you want to test the PC RJ45 network connection itself disable wireless and plug it into the router if you get internet through it it's working.
One other thing that could be holding you back when going straight from the PC to the ED is the fact that Windows by default has the network connections set for DHCP, when plugging it straight into the Etherdongle you have no DHCP server so you need to assign the PC's wired network card with a static address like IP address 10.0.0.10 Subnet Mask 255.255.255.0 should work can leave gateway and DNS blank since you don't have them in that setup.
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I think you may be right. The tech at Acer said it was not hardware. It was some thing with the software corruption he thought. Hopefully the reload will fix it.
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Well guys no go. Didn't clean up the problem. I'm going to call Acer tomorrow.
I tried my laptop but it will not except the plugin for DMX etherdongle to the file.
It is in the file but it doesn't show up when I need it when creating a new sequence.
I'm going to go out and buy a long enough cable to reach the router. This way I can see if the internet works threw the cat5e cable.
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I connected the cat5e cable to use it as the internet connect.
I have a problem with the connection. It's so slow It barely function.
It should be alot fast hard line then wireless.
I will have to call back Acer to fix it.
I the mean time I have two choices.
Pug the ED into the router and use the router connection.
Or try to get my laptop to except the plugin.
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You can test the ED plugged into the router right now and it will not take that long. If it works, then we have made some progress. If it doesn't, well we still don't know what's wrong since it could be the ED or it could be that your router does not support the multicast traffic that the ED requires/uses. If you can post the model of your router, perhaps someone can tell if it supports multicast and we can at least rule that in or out.
Based on what you have said though, it does seem to point to some kind of issue with your computer. Having a better connection over wireless than being plugged in would seem to me to indicate an issue in either the hardware or software configuration of your computer.
-Keith
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Talked to a charter tech guy. My pci lan adapter is bad.
Whats the quickest way to get around this problem for now.
I was thinking why not replace the pci lan with a two cat5e connection. Will that take long?
Or we can do what lonewolf says just hook it up to the router. I have the NETGEAR N600 wireless dual band.
Or we can try to work threw the laptop problem of getting the vixen plugin to work.
This has been a big change for me.
I would so much like to ride down main street
Norco with my horse with RGB lights and music.
Cars will stop and people will come out of there homes to see it.
I promise to video tape it for you guys if we can get this up and running.
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Ok, this router supports Multicast so lets write the DMX firmware to the Etherdongle and plug the etherdongle into the router to see if we can get it to work with the LE.
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So I plug in the ED and LE into the router?
Then how do I get my PC to connect to the ED?
Have to feed and take care of the horses. Be back in about an hour.
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PC talks to the ED through your network.
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You connect wirelessly to your router. The ED is connected to your router with a cable so you communicate with the ED through your router. Plug your LE into your ED, not the router. You are essentially using your router as an intermediary between your computer and ED since your port is bad.
I believe they make USB to CAT5 network adapters. That might be another option as well to get you another network port to use. At least you can get your gear configured and make sure that everything else is working by using the router.
Good luck,
-Keith
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OK. I used the laptop and between shut downs. The ED works with the LE. Ya
So I'm going to program the ED to pixelnet. Then program the SSC lights.
I did buy a separate pci ethernet adapter for the new PC.
Things are coming together. Thanks guys
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It's alive.
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Now rewire the smart strings and x-lights.
Not sure I programmed the SSC lights correct I used etherdongle, hybird,forward,128, 0, 1 string.
Sean said he could get nutcracked to do what I want it to do.
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I wouldn't use hybrid mode if using nutcracker. I don't think it accounts for the extra 3 channels of string on for each color. And are you using strings 128 nodes long? If not choose the number that matches your string length.
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Sittinguphigh
It has been a long road, but I am very happy to know that it is working and you are closer to getting it running the way you wanted.
Your commitment to getting this going is awesome and all the help you received from people makes me proud to say I am part of the DLA community.
Steve
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19 pages...
I think you went from start to finish... this is awesome!
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I have followed this from the beginning and I must say <res. for the helpful people of this community. and <res. to you Sittinguphigh for keeping with it until you finally saw the lights (litterally)!
John
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Working on finishing up the SSC utility smart strings.
When this is done. I have some ideas from a person who really didn't know the system until I went threw this.
Maybe it will help people going threw some thing like this again.
Thank you all for your patience. You never one gave up on me. That says some thing about the people in DLA site.
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Now were from here?
x-lights
Vixen
What's the steps now?
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Have you got anything sequenced yet with Vixen?
If you do and your strings are ready to go, then it is time to put the sequences and music onto the conductor and you are ready to go. I do not have a Etherdongle or conductor. So I will have to sit on the sidelines from here and let someone else help you with that.
Have fun and I cannot wait to see your videos. <pop.. <pop..
Steve
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I do not have any sequence.
Sean said he was going to help me with nutcracker. He said would not need vixen.
But he said that I need to use xlight first.
I think he wanted me to test the lights first.
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Time to start a new thread.