DiyLightAnimation
Hardware => Lynx Express => Topic started by: Jeffl on December 26, 2010,
-
It's 5 degrees here and I'm dreaming how I can figure out if my LE controllers have lost power. Does anyone have any ideas of a way to figure out if a GFCI circuit has tripped without having to go outside and look at it?
I'm thinking two ideas.
1) Light an LED on a visible panel "indoors" if a GFCI has tripped.
2). Use an unused cat5 wires on the LE's and if it looses contact then light an LED on a panel inside.
I currently have a large number of LOR controllers and I like it when I can run a network scan to tell if all my controllers are alive. I would like to have more LE units but I need a way to take roll call without turning lights on and seeing what lights up.
Then again, maybe there is a simpler way to attack this.
Your thoughts?
-
I use power stakes that have lights on them when powered.
I face them so I can see the light from inside.
-
Shouldn't you be looking at the problem more upstream?
Why are your GFCIs tripping? Shouldn't you be investing effort into making certain that it doesn't happen?
\dmc
-
Many of our controllers are under snow and some in enclosures which are enclosed (hidden and out of sight). I like to know they are all there in the daylight so I don't have to guess which ones are on and which are not, so I don't have to troubleshoot while cars are present. Finding out why the outlet tripped is something you want to know as well, but you first need to know it even happened.
If I knew no GFCI outlets had tripped, I would at least have a comfortable feeling they were alive and well.
-
If you have an alarm system (or want to put in a simple one) you can use something like this to indicate a power failure on a circuit(s).
http://www.amazon.com/United-Security-Products-Power-Sensor/dp/B001HLAOR0
-
Network scan won't work as the DMX signal is one way.
Running a signal back on some of the unused wires will save you additional cabling, but you always have to remember that the additional signal is there and make sure all of your equipment is modded to handle it.
RM
-
You can use a normally closed or a double throw 120VAC relay and power the coil with the GFCI line. Supply power through the contacts from a separate circuit to a night-light or something similar. As long as the GFCI circuit is alive, the relay stays open and your warning light is off. If the GFCI circuit goes down, the warning light goes on. You shouldn't have to do anything with your dimmer equipment. This could all be done at the house where the dimmer power feeds are connected.
Of course you could always simplify and setup an indicator-light somewhere inconspicuous that is connected to the GFCI circuit. It will be on when the GFCI circuit is on. It would work in reverse compared to the above.
Food for thought...
-
gophergrove is on to something. Here is a similar product that might work for you: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&productId=202216509&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&ci_sku=202216509&ci_src=14110944&cm_mmc=shopping-_-googlebase-_-D27X-_-202216509&locStoreNum=4925&marketID=164
-
These are good ideas. Now I'm trying to think of how the Power Failure Alert light could be custom made so it's price per outlet is cheaper.
Thanks for the ideas.
-
I would think you can get those cheap nightlights at Lowes or Home Depot for a buck or two a piece. Some even have a sensor so they're not on during the day. Plug them in somewhere visible from a window and you're good to go.
Here's an example of what I'm talking about: http://www.amazon.com/AmerTac-71056CC-Classic-Faceted-2-Pack/dp/B0026KW61I/ref=sr_1_32?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1293589885&sr=1-32
-
If you are going to go thagt route then I would just make up some extension cords and run them back from the GFCI outlets to the front portch. then just plug in either these night lights or some C7 sockets and bulbs and you are good to go. You could also use some LED's and currnt limiting resistors to monitor the circuits. I tend not to use them in my outdoor light displays as they were not designed for this and tend to be far more trouble than they are worth under these conditions.
-
I have 32 or 36 GFCI (can't keep track of them) outlets so I'm looking form something easy and reasonable. I sure wish I had an LED display so I could run them all on two outlets. :)
-
OK, I have to ask, why do you have so many of them? How many amps are you pulling out there?
-
I put a meter on the mains and the highest peek was 97. I have 200 amps coming in and 3 outdoor sub panels, 1 100amp, 1 50 amp and 1 40 amp for a total of 190 amps going out. All GFCI outlets are separate 20 amp circuits as well. Is that too much? ;D
-
LOL, I would think that it's way too much. You could easily handle 100A on 6 20A circuits and if that's peak draw, you could probably get away with 5. If each of your 32 or 36 GFCI outlets is on its own 20A breaker, you are working with way over 600A worth of GFCI outlets and at 15 to 20 bucks a pop, adds up to a lot of money and way more than you need for 100A peak draw. I guess that you have your reasons but I would consider re-mapping your power distribution next year, especially if you are concerned about GFCI outlets tripping out and want a way to monitor them. It is much easier to monitor 5 or 6 of them then it is to monitor 32 to 36. If you are concerned about outlet location, I'm sure that you know that a GFCI outlet can also protect non GFCI outlets connected to it.
-
Go with Tbones suggestion - don't buy anything new until you consolidate those GFCI outlets. Figure out which circuits can be combined based on load - wire them together in a junction box fed by one GFCI outlet near the sub panel making sure to wire the downstream legs for protection by the GFCI outlet (replace unneeded GFCI with standard outlets). Hopefully, as you expancd your show you will add/replace with LEDs so your power requirements will drop...
-
Yep I know it's over kill. The first panel I put in was the 100 amp panel with most of the outlets. Problem is it's in the back of the house and almost 100' from the furthest controller. After that I got a little wiser and rewired the AC with a 40amp sub-panel before it. Once that was done I put a 50amp in the front yard.
These are the things new people do when they don't fully understand what is going on. The bad news is it was a chunk of money for outlets and 12 gauge extension cords. The good news is I feel safe that it's more than capable to handle what I'm throwing at it even if somebody decides to turn all 100K lights on at once.
-
If you have 100k lights and they are all mostly mini lights, then your max load if you turn them all on is probably over 300 amps.
I have probably done much the same as you and wired up the outlets/boxes to handle fully loaded LEs. The plus side is that you don't have to worry about what you put on the LE as long as you keep it under 40 amps. The downside is that the electrical wiring is overkill.