DiyLightAnimation
Hardware => Lynx Smart String => Topic started by: twooly on January 24, 2012,
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So want to make sure I do this right. I've got the test firmware on my ssc's. How is everyone doing a burn in on their smart strings? Leaving them white? For how long?
Thanks
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With the test firmware it should be cycling colors. Blue, red, green, white. If stuck on white make sure you have the resistor the instructions talk about substituting.
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I burn mine at least 12 hours.
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Also it could be the jumper left on program. You have a choice all white jumper on. Cycle thru color jumper off. But yes you want to cycle thru the colors. Oh and yes I usually let them run 24 hours. Remember not to keep them bundled up because there will be quite a bit of heat built up in the bundle if you do which could lead to failure on the inner nodes. I just unwind them and lay them on the floor.
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I've done two burn in's:
1. Put the jumper across the two program (after you have flashed the test firware onto the smart string controller) pins on the smart string controller, power up. The LED strings should light up all white (I'm using LED Flexstrips)
leave then on for 2 -3 hours for burn in, then check for any LED's that don't stay on white, then power off
2. Put the jumper on one of the program pins on the smart string controller, power up. The LED string should now cycle through blue, red, green, white. Leave them cycling for 2 - 3 hours for burn in, then check for any LED's that aren't cycling though all the colors.
For those LED's that have errors, you can contact Ray for replacement or check to see if it can be repaired with another LED, or bad chips (quite difficult to trace sometimes), or cut out the affected section and splice a working one in.
On my burn in, I had one pixel out of 5760 LEDs that wouldn't turn red on the cycling burn in, but that's not really an issue for me.
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I did my burn in for 24hrs. Looking for rainbows or nodes not changing to the correct color. I also found that shorter strings had fewer issues than longer strings. For that reason my megatree was 32 60 node strings instead of my original plan of 16 120 node string folded in half.
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I let my 16 strings burn in overnight with the test firmware. I only had a couple of bad nodes. It was really pretty in my garage.
John
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Good to know. Since the pickit 3 doesn't use the jumper I never tried testing with it in "program mode".
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Also remember that the flex strips (and probably the strings too) are static sensitive (they come in a static proof bag) so when handling the strips or strings, make sure you ground yourself so you don't damage them (this is also the case when handling any of the Smart String Controllers, hubs and dongles)
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Awesome thanks everyone.
I did all white for about 4 hours now. Switched the jumper over so they are cycling the colors now. Ill leave that going until bed time.
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Also remember that the flex strips (and probably the strings too) are static sensitive (they come in a static proof bag) so when handling the strips or strings, make sure you ground yourself so you don't damage them (this is also the case when handling any of the Smart String Controllers, hubs and dongles)
I'm still new to a this. What's the best way to ground yourself?
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Also remember that the flex strips (and probably the strings too) are static sensitive (they come in a static proof bag) so when handling the strips or strings, make sure you ground yourself so you don't damage them (this is also the case when handling any of the Smart String Controllers, hubs and dongles)
I'm still new to a this. What's the best way to ground yourself?
Let's start off with this caveat:
If you aren't sure what you are doing, call a licensed, qualified electrician
Here's a link here of an anti-static wrist band:
http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Anti-Static-Wrist-Adjustable-Grounding/dp/B00004Z5D1
Basically you want to be "earthed" through the earth connection at the wall socket so any static charges you might have built up are safely discharged.
My soldering iron is earthed via the three pronged plug. The earthed connection in my soldering iron plug is the round plug at the top of the plug.
This is connected to the metal enclosure of my soldering iron, so I connect my wrist band to the earthed soldering iron chassis which is in turn connected to the anti-static wristband. I then put on the wristband BEFORE opening any component bags or handling any of the components, boards, LED flex strip etc..
Here's an article here that talks about static:
http://www.pcworld.com/article/82184/avoid_static_damage_to_your_pc.html
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On the other hand, if you do not have a lot of static in your environment you may be ok without anything special like a static wrist strap. I have been repairing computers and other stuff for years and do not even own any anti static devices. BUT if I was in an environment were I was getting little shocks when touching a lamp or another person I probably would do something. Just touch a metal lamp base if there is one handy. With computers I always touch the frame before poking around inside.
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When it says to plug into a 12v power supply, do i directly plug it into my 12v transformer or my ss hub for the test firmware/ burn?
And just to note I have v2 ssc's.
I also read that there isn't v2 test firmware. How would I do a burn in if that is the case?
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You should use your hub for power.
Smartstrings are DC devices, AC would probably fry them. Your typical 12 VDC wall wart type supply usually is not well regulated and may provide too much voltage and burn out the string.
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We use the pc type power supplies because they are the least expensive power supplies available on a per watt basis and they are very highly regulated. Even with cheap pc power supplies, the power rails are usually within half a volt of the stated value.
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I ask because I plugged my V2 ssc to the hub and nothing turned on. Is this where i need to do the V3 mod for it to work? And is there a burn in method used for this version?
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There is no test firmware currently available for the VER 2 SSC. Now if you wan to burn in a string then you can either modify the SSC to a VER 3 and load the VER 3 test firmware or set up XLights and use it to send test data to the SSC with it's normal firmware.
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There is no test firmware for v3 either. I am using xlights or just looping a test sequence in my sequencer.
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I thought I saw test firmware in the Wiki for SSC V3
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There is an old link there pointing to a (now) non existing page.
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http://www.diylightanimation.com/wiki/images/b/b8/SSC_TestFirmware.pdf
Caution note ... On page 2 of referenced test guidelines there is a picture of an ssc set up to test smart strings. To facilitate quick connections to power and strings alligator clips are shown/used.
Not sure about the clips in the picture, but the ones I used are not capable of handling the current for 100 nodes while trying to burn in over a long period of time ... Luckily I just checked in on my strings after a few minutes and noticed the smoke coming off the insulation on my alligator clips.
I figure I was moments away from some nice melting insulation and potentially much worse. My fault for not considering the amperage and heat generated and the relatively light gauge used on the clips ... But wanted to share to hopefully save others the learning curve.
The pictured set up is great for testing, but use caution when setting up for burn in of large number of nodes.
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i set all of my strings on the 3 core connectors that ray sells, so that they are interchangale. I have one extra SSC not needed for my show set aside, as the test.
you load the test firmware on it, and then you can plug any string into it. you can set it up to run from a hub (in case you absolutely have to replace a running ssc with this one, or you can set it up to run from a cheap 10A 12v power supply from ray.
when your testing, you just make sure the other end is covered up to not short out.