Author Topic: Burn In  (Read 2822 times)

Offline twooly

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 837
  • Blah
    • Todd Woolums
Burn In
« on: January 24, 2012, »
So want to make sure I do this right.  I've got the test firmware on my ssc's.  How is everyone doing a burn in on their smart strings?  Leaving them white? For how long?

Thanks
You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login

Offline keitha43

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1182
Re: Burn In
« Reply #1 on: January 24, 2012, »
With the test firmware it should be cycling colors. Blue, red, green, white. If stuck on white make sure you have the resistor the instructions talk about substituting.

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk

Offline keitha43

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1182
Re: Burn In
« Reply #2 on: January 24, 2012, »
I burn mine at least 12 hours.

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk

Offline Rod R

  • Coop Manager
  • Sr. Member
  • *
  • Posts: 902
Re: Burn In
« Reply #3 on: January 24, 2012, »
Also it could be the jumper left on program.  You have a choice all white jumper on.  Cycle thru color jumper off.  But yes you want to cycle thru the colors.  Oh and yes I usually let them run 24 hours.  Remember not to keep them bundled up because there will be quite a bit of heat built up in the bundle if you do which could lead to failure on the inner nodes.  I just unwind them and lay them on the floor.
« Last Edit: January 24, 2012, by Rod R »

Offline peteandvanessa

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 492
Re: Burn In
« Reply #4 on: January 24, 2012, »
I've done two burn in's:

1. Put the jumper across the two program (after you have flashed the test firware onto the smart string controller) pins on the smart string controller, power up. The LED strings should light up all white (I'm using LED Flexstrips)
leave then on for 2 -3 hours for burn in, then check for any LED's that don't stay on white, then power off

2. Put the jumper on one of the program pins on the smart string controller, power up. The LED string should now cycle through blue, red, green, white. Leave them cycling for 2 - 3 hours for burn in, then check for any LED's that aren't cycling though all the colors.

For those LED's that have errors, you can contact Ray for replacement or check to see if it can be repaired with another LED, or bad chips (quite difficult to trace sometimes), or cut out the affected section and splice a working one in.

On my burn in, I had one pixel out of 5760 LEDs that wouldn't turn red on the cycling burn in, but that's not really an issue for me.

Offline rdebolt

  • Patron Member
  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1605
    • Christmas in Boise
Re: Burn In
« Reply #5 on: January 24, 2012, »
I did my burn in for 24hrs. Looking for rainbows or nodes not changing to the correct color. I also found that shorter strings had fewer issues than longer strings. For that reason my megatree was 32 60 node strings instead of my original plan of 16 120 node string folded in half.

Offline Rainlover

  • Coop Admin
  • Sr. Member
  • *
  • Posts: 1739
  • 97055
Re: Burn In
« Reply #6 on: January 24, 2012, »
I let my 16 strings burn in overnight with the test firmware. I only had a couple of bad nodes. It was really pretty in my garage.

John
Life isn't about how to survive the storm, but how to dance in the rain!

Offline keitha43

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1182
Re: Burn In
« Reply #7 on: January 24, 2012, »
Good to know. Since the pickit 3 doesn't use the jumper I never tried testing with it in "program mode".

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk

Offline peteandvanessa

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 492
Re: Burn In
« Reply #8 on: January 24, 2012, »
Also remember that the flex strips (and probably the strings too) are static sensitive (they come in a static proof bag) so when handling the strips or strings, make sure you ground yourself so you don't damage them (this is also the case when handling any of the Smart String Controllers, hubs and dongles)

Offline twooly

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 837
  • Blah
    • Todd Woolums
Re: Burn In
« Reply #9 on: January 24, 2012, »
Awesome thanks everyone.

I did all white for about 4 hours now.  Switched the jumper over so they are cycling the colors now.  Ill leave that going until bed time. 
You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login

Offline Marty Miller

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 15
Burn In
« Reply #10 on: January 24, 2012, »
You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login
Also remember that the flex strips (and probably the strings too) are static sensitive (they come in a static proof bag) so when handling the strips or strings, make sure you ground yourself so you don't damage them (this is also the case when handling any of the Smart String Controllers, hubs and dongles)

I'm still new to a this.  What's the best way to ground yourself?

Offline peteandvanessa

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 492
Re: Burn In
« Reply #11 on: January 24, 2012, »
You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login
You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login
Also remember that the flex strips (and probably the strings too) are static sensitive (they come in a static proof bag) so when handling the strips or strings, make sure you ground yourself so you don't damage them (this is also the case when handling any of the Smart String Controllers, hubs and dongles)

I'm still new to a this.  What's the best way to ground yourself?

Let's start off with this caveat:

If you aren't sure what you are doing, call a licensed, qualified electrician



Here's a link here of an anti-static wrist band:
You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login

Basically you want to be "earthed" through the earth connection at the wall socket so any static charges you might have built up are safely discharged.

My soldering iron is earthed via the three pronged plug. The earthed connection in my soldering iron plug is the round plug at the top of the plug.

This is connected to the metal enclosure of my soldering iron, so I connect my wrist band to the earthed soldering iron chassis which is in turn connected to the anti-static wristband. I then put on the wristband BEFORE opening any component bags or handling any of the components, boards, LED flex strip etc..

Here's an article here that talks about static:
You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login
« Last Edit: January 24, 2012, by peteandvanessa »

Offline jnealand

  • Patron Member
  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 2494
Re: Burn In
« Reply #12 on: January 24, 2012, »
On the other hand, if you do not have a  lot of static in your environment you may be ok without anything special like a static wrist strap.  I have been repairing computers and other stuff for years and do not even own any anti static devices.  BUT if I was in an environment were I was getting little shocks when touching a lamp or another person I probably would do something.  Just touch a metal lamp base if there is one handy.  With computers I always touch the frame before poking around inside.
Jim Nealand
Kennesaw, GA

Offline sebjsan

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 438
  • Sebastian from California
Re: Burn In
« Reply #13 on: October 29, 2012, »
When it says to plug into a 12v power supply, do i directly plug it into my 12v transformer or my ss hub for the test firmware/ burn?
And just to note I have v2 ssc's.
I also read that there isn't v2 test firmware. How would I do a burn in if that is the case?
« Last Edit: October 29, 2012, by sebjsan »
Sebastian from California

Offline rm357

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1282
  • 31088
Burn In
« Reply #14 on: October 30, 2012, »
You should use your hub for power.

Smartstrings are DC devices, AC would probably fry them. Your typical 12 VDC wall wart type supply usually is not well regulated and may provide too much voltage and burn out the string.
Robert
Warner Robins, Georgia, USA