Author Topic: Making Smart String Nodes strings with consistent node spacing.  (Read 3720 times)

Offline MrChristmas2000

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The Smart String Nodes from Ray do not have consistent spacing between Nodes.

Has anybody developed a good way to space the nodes for free hanging on a Megatree? I would like to develop a way to do it so that it dosen't add a large amount of weight to the strings and flexible enough to let you use the strings in other layouts for other shows. I would like to have the nodes to face outward in an even manner.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Offline taybrynn

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I haven't done this, but I've thought of attaching them to aircraft cable with cheap hanging cable clips ...  to hold the spacing and I think they would allow you to mount the nodes pointing out on the cable by attaching the nodes to the clips with with hot glue or with zip ties.  I'm not sure the correct name for these clips, but they are cable hanging clips and you just crimp them onto the cable.  They would add some weight, but not too much?  I used these clip to hang RGB "mega balls" with in 2011 ... and they worked great.  They don't move once you put them onto the cable.
Scott - Castle Rock, Colorado   [ 2 homes, 100% RGB in 2016; since 2008; over 32k channels of E1.31 ]
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Offline chrisatpsu

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i zip tied my nodes to nylon cable with the node pointing up the rope of the mega tree. this kept them with consistent spacing and all facing up. the added weight was held by the cable. and i used a 2" pvc pipe for my structure. It held up very well, even in high winds as the nylon rope also provided 16 additional guy wires to holding the mast up.
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Offline JDM1oc

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I read on an other forum Walter Monkhouse used poly strapping to space and face the nodes.  I'm away from my computer and don't have links but if you search for "colormotions tree" you should be able to find it.

Josh

Offline smeighan

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ayschristmas has threads about different ways of mounting the pixels.

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shows using flat packing strap  and other methods

I was thinking parachute cord and cable ties. It really is important for Nutcracker
1) the pixels are spaced evenly
2) they are pointing outward. I am not sure who much it will affect hem if they are spaced correctly but all pointing in different orientations.

Sean
Littleton, CO
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Offline MrChristmas2000

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I used the paracord to attach the nodes to last year but no matter how i tried to keep the spacing equal when I put up the tree the spacing did not work out the same across all the strings.

smeighan

Looked at the Auschristmas solution, while that was a good idea for their modules our nodes can't be mounted quite like that.

If I could find some strapping material that has holes in the straps almost like metal pipe strapping (too heavy) it would work great.

Offline JoeFromOzarks

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We used paracord with 2.5”* node spacing, with two wire-ties (4” black UV resistant) holding each node, the LED end of the node point up.   I really thought the nodes would be wobbly, or pointing every which way, but they weren’t!   And the paracord didn’t mask too many of the nodes, nothing noticeable, and none of the nodes were darkened enough to be uncomfortably hidden.  We only had to re-torque the tightness on the strings once, the second day after installation, that paracord is good stuff! 

Took about 45 minutes to build each 10 ft, 49-node string.  (align nodes – untwist wiring so each node was in line with the next -- no wire twisting, plus the sharpie mark on the white paracord, plus first wire-tie to align and return with a second wire-tie to secure the node to the paracord.)   No wire-ties were used on between-node wiring.  I should mention every third node was fastened on one side of the paracord, with the next shifted one-third rotation and the third another positioned ROUGHLY another third off.  We did not wrap the paracord with the node strings, just kinda altered the side of the paracord the node was affixed.

To build, the raw paracord was strung horizontally between two clamps, about 4.5ft off the floor to keep the paracord tight (stretched) during the node mounting process.  After the paracord was strung taunt, we marked 2.5”*  lines on the white paracord with a Sharpie and that mark was the reference point to attach the node where the “panel mount ridge” is. 

I’m glad I didn’t do “mount at 90 degree angle” to paracord fidgeting, having the nodes parallel with the paracord looked great!   Plus, some of the winds we had probably would’ve turned the nodes into tiny, illuminated helicopters.  (grin)

*My son just mentioned we used the 2.75-inch chart to build the strings, not the 2.5-inch chart.  Guess I’d better fetch the tape measure.  (grin)     

On the top end, we had 24-inches of unpopulated paracord to tie off the strings to the topper, and about 48-inches at the base end.  Every other string tied to a point on the vertical pole about 20-inches off the ground and the alternating strings tied to the base near the ground, giving the bottom of the tree a little more “depth.”

Best of all, unlike the precise positioning of our 3.5” PVC half-pipe node devices, the ever-so-slight imperfections of node positioning on the tree actually gave the tree depth and dimension.  The tree was well liked by everybody.

Sorry to be so windy, but I really expected the Cards@Reds game to be a low scoring event, at least into the eighth.  Go Redbirds!!   :)


:) joe
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Offline MrChristmas2000

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JoeFromOzarks

Do you have any pictures of the finished product?

Thanks,

Offline JoeFromOzarks

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Here is one, can you see it okay?  (Battery in camera is a bit weak, I can shoot some different pictures in the daylight tomorrow, if you wish.)


:) joe

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Edit:  The SSC pipe mode here: You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login
« Last Edit: April 09, 2012, by JoeFromOzarks »
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Offline taybrynn

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I was thinking of these with the end bent 90 degrees to hold the nodes facing out ...

Sta-kons

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« Last Edit: April 10, 2012, by taybrynn »
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Offline jnealand

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I was thinking of these with the end bent 90 degrees to hold the nodes facing out ...

In my opinion the nodes are so bright you do not need them pointing out.  On my gutters they point down to the ground and look just as bright as the oned around my windows that point towards the street.
Jim Nealand
Kennesaw, GA

Offline taybrynn

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Thats what I've been saying to other about the flex strips.  In fact I liked them better facing down, because it took the edge off their brightness ... but were still plenty bright compared to my mostly incan. lights everywhere else.  I also have the benefit of having a lot of distance from my display items to the viewers, so a little off here or there kind of isn't that noticeable.
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Offline MrChristmas2000

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I guess it's just the engineering prefectionist coming out but I would like them to be pointing out and equally spaced. Particullarly if doing things like text around or spiraling of the tree.

I would also like to have the option to use the pixels for other seasons as a sign or video style grid.

I am working on an idea that came to me today but it may take some time to build a model of it.

I am still open to other ideas.

Offline chrisatpsu

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from what angle to people see your tree?    if they see it from one angle (from the road) then you want to try to get them all to point at the road or at least at the same direction in relation to the road, if you're going to do test in the tree.  If you have more than one viewing angle (like another road on the side, or even if you prefer to have a good view from your home, then pointing them up may be the way to go.

I've pointed my nodes up as I wasn't sure how much of a beating in the weather my 1st generation ip67 nodes were. and it still came out bright.
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Offline MrChristmas2000

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chrisatpsu

You have a good point. My tree is a full circle tree.

I think I am going to rethink how I want to do this.

This season they just kind of dangled every which direction but I ended up with too much varriation in ths spacing. Pointing them up may be the best way.

I am looking at a little varriation on how JoeFromOzarks did his.

Thanks,