Author Topic: 60/40 or 63/37?  (Read 1300 times)

Offline MAnthony

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60/40 or 63/37?
« on: September 28, 2013, »
which solder would you suggest for lynx pcbs and goodies?  This will by my first attempt.  I watched the videos, but they didn't really tell me the difference in the solder, so I thought I would pick some gray matter from you all as to what works best.  I apologize if this seems like a tedious post, but I just don't want regrets when all I had to do was ask.  I plan on buying this soldering station.  I looked at other vendors for the same item and actually found, with the free shipping, that amazon was a better price.

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So I took the advice of RJ's videos and made a little 'holder' plate out of a old pcb I took out of a tv.  Got the tweezers.  got the magnifying lamp (stole the ol' lady's beauty light, heh heh).  got any suggestions on what else I might need?
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Offline tbone321

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Re: 60/40 or 63/37?
« Reply #1 on: September 28, 2013, »
I would stick with leaded solder.  It is much easier to use and I didn't see where your iron claimed that it was rated for lead free solder anyway.  I would also look into picking up some flux and some desoldering equipment.  The Radio Shack desoldering tool works pretty well (but it does take some time to heat up) and desoldering wick also comes in handy.
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Offline drlucas

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Re: 60/40 or 63/37?
« Reply #2 on: September 28, 2013, »
from the wiki..

 You need solder so buy some. I recommend .032 size (0.8mm or 0.7mm) as the larger sizes tend to cause you to put too much solder on. How much? Go ahead and get a 1 lb spool as it’s cheaper in large volume and you will go through it faster than you think. Make sure you are getting rosin core for electronics, they make some solder for plumbing that has acid as the core this is a bad mistake to make.
-Ryan Lucas-
- Pickering, Ontario, Canada, Eh?! -

Offline n1ist

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Re: 60/40 or 63/37?
« Reply #3 on: September 28, 2013, »
I personally prefer 63/37 solder.  It is harder to make a cold solder joint with that than 60/40. 

/mike

Offline dmaccole

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Re: 60/40 or 63/37?
« Reply #4 on: September 28, 2013, »
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I personally prefer 63/37 solder.  It is harder to make a cold solder joint with that than 60/40. 

Ah, but trust me: not impossible  ;D

\dmc
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Offline winwin

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Re: 60/40 or 63/37?
« Reply #5 on: September 29, 2013, »
I wanted to get 63/37 but ended up with 60/40... I was concerned because I had convinced myself that 63/37 was much better (quality of joints, melting temperature, etc.). Got a soldering station too (another stressful decision to make) got a cheap one (am I going to regret it?)
Like you, I had watched the videos and that is all what I knew about soldering. I plugged in the station and got to work...and everything went very well!
My feeling is that you should get the best deal you can find (63/37 or 60/40) and not worry about the ratio. you will get the job done and be happy with it. Like others mentioned, get the leaded solder and the desoldering wick too.
If you do have a multimeter, consider getting one too.

You did not asked about the station you selected but this is what I used You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login. I do not regret it and can't beat the price. BTW, if you reach $50 with CSI you get a freebie. This is how I got my multimeter.


 
AL.

Offline JonB256

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Re: 60/40 or 63/37?
« Reply #6 on: October 01, 2013, »
63/37 is the preferred ratio because it is "eutectic."

That $5 word just means that, once you remove the heat and the molten solder begins to cool, it goes from liquid to solid with a minimal time in a "plastic" state. It is during that plastic state that, if the joint is moved at all, that it can cause gaps and crystallization of the solder joint. (aka, a cold solder joint).

Only slightly more expensive but harder to find in stores than the 60/40. I usually buy Kester brand, no-clean rosin, 63/37.

But - there is nothing wrong with 60/40. If you have it, and it is rosin core, don't worry about it.