DiyLightAnimation
Hardware => Lynx Smart String => Topic started by: tng5737 on April 01, 2011,
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I got this neat little controller from Ray for about $18
http://www.aliexpress.com/product-fm/365216351-TH2010-series-LED-pixel-remote-controller-support-TM1803-TM1804-TM1809-TM1812IC--wholesalers.html
I hooked up a 12v/1a wallwart and a string of my metal-backed square nodes and presto - blinky!
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Looks cool.
So this is connected to the 3 wire square SS modules?
Can you show a close up the wiring to controller connection?
Whats the max amps on this controller?
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The wiring diagram is on the same page as the controller info. Just scroll down to see it.
Tom.
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I still think a picture would be helpful to see.
I'm not real good at reading diagrams, nor do I always trust those
instructions from China.
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I'm not really sure what the max current capacity is on these units the manual doesn't really say!
First of all be careful about wiring these the same way I did - your wiring MAY be different!
With that caveat in mind, if you look at the last pix (from prevous post) you can see the wires going to the square nodes (RD=V+;Gn=Di;BL=Gnd)
Also, in this case I was driving the nodes and controller from the 12v/1amp wallwart plugged into the right side of the controller.
For the Rectangles, Flex strips and 128 Node string, I used a 600W computer power supply to provide the power.
here is a summary of my wiring connections.
Flex String --> Rd=V+;Gn=Gnd;Bl=Din
128 Nodes --> Rd=V+;Gn=Gnd;Bl=Din
Rectangles --> Rd=V+;Gn=Din;Bl=Gnd (note the switch in gn and blue)
Squares --> Rd=V+;Gn=Din;Bl=Gnd
Here is a link to an english version of the manual. It is a little confusing so you have to play with it a bit.
http://www.betop-led.com/login/cp/cpsp/20108121056116843.pdf
Basically, with the power off you press the '-','+', and 'Mode' buttons simultaneously. then press just the 'Mode' key - this gets you into the setup mode.
From there you can enable or disable the 'auto' mode and set the speed and node counts. You can also set the unit to be a 'Master' or 'Slave'
The unit has a RX and TX connection so you can slave multiple units.
The description says that it can drive 512,1024 or 2048 depending on model. When I power my unit on it says TH2010-AA so it is capable of 2048 nodes in High Speed or 1024 in Slow.
I have uploaded a little video to illustrate some of its modes and how the 128 node string look in action.
The patterns won't make much sense since the nodes are all bundle up -but I didn't feel like re-wrapping all of the string - again!
http://vimeo.com/21820012
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BTW, the unit also comes with a simple remote.
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Current load should not be an issue. There is no need to power the strings directly from the controller. The strings can be powered directly from the supply. All this controller really needs to do send the control signal to the string. I just ordered one of these myself along with a power supply. I'm sure that they will get here way ahead of the strings and this will allow me to test the strings before I send Ray the payment. Lets hope the strings ship before I have to cancel that order.
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Thanks!!
How did you turn on the ATX power supply without a PC, or did you run a line off a running PC?
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I have a little power supply tester I got from Antec. You don't want to leave it plugged in when there are devices connected to the PS since it will get hot and overheat. However it is good enough to test the controller and lights as long as you remember to unplug the tester when you are done!
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You need to connect pin 14 on the main connector to ground or to pin 15 which is a ground.
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You mean pins 13 and 14, right
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So can you just run a wire jumper between the correct pins to start the supply?
What size wire is needed?
I saw this $1.xx ATX PS starter/tester on ebay ...
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This little controller is pretty neat. I just hooked mine up to my ss stuff and a 5a 12v power brick from an lcd monitor. Great way to test the strings and show them off before we get the ss controllers and hubs.
Another link to an english manual: http://www.aptlight.com/UploadFile/20110217/20110217012653.pdf (http://www.aptlight.com/UploadFile/20110217/20110217012653.pdf)
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I picked up the same controller, but did not want to recommend it untill I actually had some strings to test.
It works wonderfully, and it does not matter if you do high or low speed - both work with these strings and things.
Like others I found my pixel counts were a little random. overall I am about 15 nodes short on an order of 1568 (1% off).
RM
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You mean pins 13 and 14, right
Pin 14 is the power supply on pin. Both pins 13 and 15 are grounds or to be more correct, common connections so either one will work.
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So can you just run a wire jumper between the correct pins to start the supply?
What size wire is needed?
I saw this $1.xx ATX PS starter/tester on ebay ...
The wire size in not all that importand as there is litle current flowing thru it. What is important is that it makes a good connection between the two pins so I would go with a heavier guage of solid core to make a good connection. If the connection is loose, the supply will keep flickering on and off which is obviously not good for it.
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Thanks for that suggestion - now I don't have to use my little tester. I think it was designed to put the ps under load - probably has some honker resisters inside the case.
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It is too bad that we can't invoke some of these controller macro effects from a pc !
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Did all you guys who mentioned picking up this controller get it from Ray or is there another source?
-Mike
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I ordered mine from Ray.
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Ray, see first post for link
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That is AWESOME! I have a 6 foot ferris wheel that a plug and play controller like this one combined with some flexible strips would be incredible on!!! Don't know how to do it, but my wheels are definitely turning!!!
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The rigid strips are wired: red +12v, green -ground, blue - data
You hook red and green to your power supply and hook the controller gnd and data1 to the green and blue respectively. Power does not flow through the unit.
Also, it had no problem driving two strips off of the same data connector. The aligator clips I was using tohook things up got pretty hot when I had two sets of four rigid strips running in parallel...
RM