DiyLightAnimation
Hardware => Lynx Smart String => Topic started by: taybrynn on June 15, 2011,
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Lets put our SS assembly tips / gotchas in a thread. Here is mine, I discovered last night.
This has been mentioned before, but I think its critical for all to know.
In Step 8 of the SS Hub Manual ... it states:
Insert the 4 eight pin headers as shown and solder then in place.
Many (not all) of those in the 2011 SS COOP will find only some (maybe half?) of these 8-pin headers in the main bag.
Do not worry, the rest of the header pins were put into a different bag, so look in another bag to find the other (missing) 8-pin headers.
This hit me last night, thought I was missing parts ... and I've read it mentioned in the COOP thread, but I still think its critical that all putting together SS Hubs read this, as you'll also probably wonder the same thing when you get to step 8 and look for those 8-pin header pins !!
Overall the COOP was done so well and so well organized and labeled ... I am amazed ... and thankful to Bill and RJ !
Cheers,
Scott
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Just getting started building ssc and would like to know can you start with any end of the string on the ssc?
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If your talking about the RGB smart strings ... yes, normally you have to connect them on the input side.
SSC (controller) --------> SS item (input)~~~~~~~~[strip, nodes, modules, rigid strips]~~~~~~~~~~~(SS out)
WHen you look at the modules, for example, one end has a Din (digital input) ... and if the wire going it going to that first, then your on the SS item (input). If the wire first goes to a Dout or Do (on the module, say) .. then its hooked up backwards ... not good.
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I'm useing the Smart String nodes and all I see on it is HRX on one side and an arrow on the other. I can not read anything on the boards inside. Any other way to know?
Thanks
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I believe on the nodes, the input side is the side with large black chip on it. The input side wire of the SS node should go to the big chip side first. I think there are posts telling this, because thats how I learned it.
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Thanks for the help, I'll try that.
Ronnie Kelley
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I think this is an excellent idea for a thread. I know RJ and the beta testers try to do a very thorough job with assembly instructions but since this is such a new product most of may want to take a little extra time going over instructions and if we see something that doesn't make sense ask questions here so everyone can assemble there smart strings with little or no problems. This will also help in the refinement (if needed) of the manual. I know that with the pixel strings (straw hat LEDs) one of the ribbon cables is supposed to be longer than the other and the longer end is what is supposed to go to the Smart String controller.
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I did just confirm that the chip side is the input side. Its in a pdf for SS nodes under the SS forum. http://diylightanimation.com/index.php?topic=3554.0
I also do think that the longer wire is likely the input side. But if you spliced it, this could becoming confusing. The big chip is fairly foolproof and necessary to know when splicing out bad nodes, etc.
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When I am programming the chip I keep getting E2BC for the checksum of the string controllers. Not the E244 listed in the wiki. Is this normal? I have the jumpers on the W pins and am using the utility not the MPlab software.
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That is the same checksum I rcv'd (the hub was 8196). I tested my hub and first ssc today and they appear to function fine.
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The strings do have to be hooked up the right way for them to work, but my experince with them is that they are pretty robust - I did not break anything when I hooked them up backwards and swapped the data and ground wires... I did always have the red on the +12 though...
Of course, when it didn't work, I didn't leave it hooked that way for very long...
RM357
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When I am programming the chip I keep getting E2BC for the checksum of the string controllers. Not the E244 listed in the wiki. Is this normal? I have the jumpers on the W pins and am using the utility not the MPlab software.
What pickit version are you using? 2 or 3
I just re-read my SSC with a pickit2 utility ver 2.61 and I am still getting E244 for the checksum
and
E118 for the hub
Rick R.
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Pickit 3 application version 1.0.0.0 from the wiki page. as soon as you import the file it says that is what the checksum will be. And after writing it is. Downloaded the hex file from the wiki multiple times.
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I've wondered if pickit2 vs 3 would show anything different on checksums. Put your pickit version in your signature?
I've had problems before where I either put the PIC chip in backwards, or had the ISPF cable attached backwards. Sometimes I just do an erase, then write again, then it matches. The erase might be important, YMMV.
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I think it is a v2 vs v3. I tried erasing multiple times and reflashing. Now tng5737
reported the same checksum. What version did you use?
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One thing I noted - In the wiki it recommends connecting female end of the connectors to the controller (I agree) - on my ridged strips the female end if the input male on the output. So just FYI for anyone. I want to do all my controllers the same so I can switch thing out if needed - flexibility.
Harrison
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One thing I noted - In the wiki it recommends connecting female end of the connectors to the controller (I agree) - on my ridged strips the female end if the input male on the output. So just FYI for anyone. I want to do all my controllers the same so I can switch thing out if needed - flexibility.
Harrison
Just chatted with Ray - if you plan on using the ridged strips they are all this way. Looks like I will be going against the recommendation.
Harrison
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The last step in the manual of the SS controller is clearly noted on how to connect the wires to the nodes. It says:
"Once completed you can connect your lights feeder cable (make sure it is the input end of the lights) or your pigtail from Ray on to the SSC as shown. Make sure the wires are connected to the correct pad. They are marked as Data, - , + to show power and signal. "
In my case with rectangle nodes and not using pig-tails, the picture colors are wrong. I went by looking at the picture and not reading. This was wrong of me.
Be sure to not make my mistake.
Ron
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Good find Ron.
Is there an easy way to figure out what wires do what on the lights? Are they marked on the first pixel or node?
Greg
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Good find Ron.
Is there an easy way to figure out what wires do what on the lights? Are they marked on the first pixel or node?
Greg
On the rectangle and the square they are clearly marked on the PCB's (+) (Data) and (-). The nodes may be, but I can't see through the plastic.
Ron
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The strings have the Green as Ground. Blue as data. I tried to get them made all the same and was told they would be changed but they were not.
The others modules have the blue and green the other way so Blue is ground and Green is data, <fp.
RJ
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See this post: http://diylightanimation.com/index.php?topic=4993.msg82825#msg82825
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On Step 8 and Step 9 of the SSC manual, the 3 pin regulator referred to as 1117 is the same as a LD33CV.
The LD33CV is what is printed on the chip, not 1117.
The other regulator 7805, is also shown as 7805 on the chip.
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I am connecting flex strips to all of my controllers. Today I build a few more controllers and started to test them. My second string of LEDs wouldn't light.
On the flex string, there is an IN and an OUT. I had connected the controller to the OUT. The flex stips come in a roll and I guess sometimes they come rolled starting from the IN or starting from the OUT. Once I corrected this issue, the next flex worked perfectly. Two down, 11 more to go.
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From experience. <fp.
If you are using the 3 wire connectors from Ray, Make sure you put the nut on the unthreaded end before you solder the connectors to the SS controller and Smart Strings.
OOPS.
John
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From experience. <fp.
If you are using the 3 wire connectors from Ray, Make sure you put the nut on the unthreaded end before you solder the connectors to the SS controller and Smart Strings.
OOPS.
John
:-[ done it! <fp.
RJ
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Make sure your using Vixen 2.1.1.0 if you want to use the pixelnet plugin. eff. 06/23/2011
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When putting the pipe caps on make sure that they are the right size for <fp.
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1inch sch40 caps work on 1inch thin wall pvc : )
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When putting the pipe caps on make sure that they are the right size for <fp.
Also, make sure to put the cap on BEFORE soldering the wire on. <fp.
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When putting the pipe caps on make sure that they are the right size for <fp.
Also, make sure to put the cap on BEFORE soldering the wire on. <fp.
Yep did that one already <fp.
Found the best fix was to carve out a slit from the cab so basically the wire will end up being at a 90 degree angle from the pipe, but it works and easier then taking apart a cat 5 cable again. hahahah
-JS
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I had an easier solution when I did this - I decided I needed a TEST unit ;D
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The 1 1/4" regular pvc and caps work fine for SSC cases ... if you can't find the thin walled 1" pvc. It was only a little more $$ and saved the hassle of looking for the special PVC. It doesn't seem to be common in Colorado, at least.
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FYI,
The thin wall pipe is called class 200 pvc and is not special. It has been in every home do it center I have ever been to. It is commonly used for irrigation systems to save the cost of heavy pvc that is not needed. It is rated for 200 psi. this is where the 200 comes from. The benefit but it is cheaper than schedule 40 but because it makes a lighter and smaller unit than the 1 1/4 sch40 which is heavier and larger.
Either will work for a housing for your ssc.
RJ
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One little tip I found out tonight which helped a LOT!!! for drilling the wholes for the wires in the end caps - the cap fit nicely in a 1 1/4 coupler (upside down) drill a 1/4 inch whole from the bottom (snug on wire but perfect) - you may need a hammer to get it back out (quick tap) but holds it nicely (so you don't) and for $0.55 made doing 60 NOTHING (and no drill press for nice and consistent results) - cut 30 sections of pipe, drilled 60 end caps, and sanded all the rough edges in just under 2 hours (less then i was expecting).
2nd Tip - Add a zip tie to the bottom of the wire before the cap to act as a catch and straight relief.
Harrison
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FYI,
The thin wall pipe is called class 200 pvc and is not special. It has been in every home do it center I have ever been to. It is commonly used for irrigation systems to save the cost of heavy pvc that is not needed. It is rated for 200 psi. this is where the 200 comes from. The benefit but it is cheaper than schedule 40 but because it makes a lighter and smaller unit than the 1 1/4 sch40 which is heavier and larger.
Either will work for a housing for your ssc.
RJ
Well this isn't entirely true as it is very rarely used for irrigation systems. The pressure in irrigations systems is actually greater than what is found inside your house in the 1/2" cooper pipe. This is because the piping coming into your house is usually 1" or 3/4" cooper (lead piping in older homes). You can not run that much pressure through SCH20 PVC. Furthermore, in colder climates the SCH20 will crack with even the smallest amount of water left in the pipes. (I installed irrigation systems when I was in high school...haha ;)) SCH20 is actually most commonly used in home vacuum systems and for airlines in pools and water gardens.
In any event, everyone should remember to actually put the pipe over the SSC before soldering on the wires! <fp. I actually lost count at how many times I had 2 end caps and no pipe in the middle. duh!!!!
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Well actually we use it for irrigation and the information I posted came from a company that makes it. Like these people :
http://www.certainteed.com/products/pipe/turf-irrigation/340631
At any rate Lowes and Home Depot carry it in their stores. I have bought it from them and it is listed on their websites as having it.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100348483/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
http://www.lowes.com/pd_23993-1814-PVC+20010++0600_0__?productId=3133107&Ntt=pvc+pipe+200keyword+or+item+%23&pl=1¤tURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dpvc%2Bpipe%2B200keyword%2Bor%2Bitem%2B%2523&facetInfo=
So to me that is common.
RJ
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So to me that is common.
I agree / Second and at $1.16 for each case that GREAT!!! (Texas Sales Tax Included)
Harrison
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It's a region specific product, since its not sold in certain states, but is in others ... I just checked the HD website for zipcodes in CO, ND, MN and UT ... and it appears to not be offered/sold in CO, ND, MN .. but was sold in UT. YMMV
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It's a region specific product, since its not sold in certain states, but is in others ... I just checked the HD website for zipcodes in CO, ND, MN and UT ... and it appears to not be offered/sold in CO, ND, MN .. but was sold in UT. YMMV
Maybe find someone who is willing to cut it down and ship it ;)
Harrison
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I love the ambiguity of the English language. :o
Irrigation...
Out West and in rural areas,people think of farmland and watering crops. For us that live in the city and urban areas, we think of water sprinkler systems for the grass in our yards...
Very different pipe needs... the 200 is appropriate for one, but not the other.
8)
RM
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the pipe isn't available in western PA at Home Depot, but they have plenty of it at Lowes.
so if not at one, try the other...
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It's a region specific product, since its not sold in certain states, but is in others ... I just checked the HD website for zipcodes in CO, ND, MN and UT ... and it appears to not be offered/sold in CO, ND, MN .. but was sold in UT. YMMV
Scott,
Lowes has it for you...
LOWE'S OF CASTLE ROCK, CO
Hide•1360 NEW BEALE STREET
•CASTLE ROCK, CO
•(720) 239-0355
•Store Hoursâ€
•M-SA 6 am - 9 pm, SU 8 am - 8 pm
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Thanks. You folks are simply amazing !!
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<thinks to self> now if only they would purchase it, cut it and deliver it to my door....... </thinks to self>
:o
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I’m wondering if others are out there like me. I get one or two strings working and think I have it figured out then the next two I build does not work. Am I programming the pics wrong, am I using the wrong order, why is one string working and the other not, why does the string that worked not work when I reprogram it to different channels?
Do I need to reprogram all the strings with the updated firmware on 6-15-11?
Could someone tell me if it matters if I program the pic with a windows vista computer but use a windows 97 computer to program the ssc channel start number and to run vixen?
Is there any order I need to take when programming the ssc channel then testing the string on vixen? I only use one program at a time and have the other closed.
Where should the jumper be when programming the ssc with firmware, on or off or does it matter?
If I forget to move the jumper off before testing it on vixen after setting the channel, do I need to start over or just remove the jumper?
It seems like I have several bad strings from what I have tested for now, still more to test.
Thanks for all the help so for, you guys are awesome.
Ronnie Kelley
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A real quick answer, to hope to get you going.
It sounds like the trick you are missing is,
After you start transmitting and the nodes are all flashing white. Remove the program jumper and be sure to power down the SSC (disconnect it from the hub) before you do anything else. That is what locks the configuration data into the SSC.
After a minute you can plug it back in and test it with Vixen or what ever software you are using.
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Thanks, I'll give that a try.
Ronnie
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Could someone tell me if it matters if I program the pic with a windows vista computer but use a windows 97 computer to program the ssc channel start number and to run vixen?
wow, Windows 98 was sooo long ago, that i totally scanned right over that sentence a few time before i realized there wasn't a windows 97. Unless you count Windows 95 Rev "C" hehe. My long term memory must be failing
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Figured a picture (Even a HORABLE one - from my cell phone) is worth a thousand words - also may help someone on the SSC cases. Been working on these this last week
Harrison
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Do the end caps get glued-on, or are they just friction fit (so that the SSC's are accessible)?
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Do the end caps get glued-on, or are they just friction fit (so that the SSC's are accessible)?
I wouldn't glue them, cause if you need to access the SSC to reprogram the PIC you will have trouble connecting to the header.
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Do the end caps get glued-on, or are they just friction fit (so that the SSC's are accessible)?
friction fit - they are TIGHT so I have no fear of an issue with this
Do the end caps get glued-on, or are they just friction fit (so that the SSC's are accessible)?
I wouldn't glue them, cause if you need to access the SSC to reprogram the PIC you will have trouble connecting to the header.
Yep - technically you COULD glue one side so the other is still free floating but with how tight they are no reason too.
Harrison
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You might be supprised on what water can get into. Since most if not all of my SSC's will be hanging, I will be gluing the bottom cap in place and letting the RJ45 wire slide in the lower cap. The upper cap will be friction fit but the output wire will be siliconed in place. This way any water that may collect on the joint between the lower cap and the body or running down the output wire cannot get it and if any does, it can weep out from the lower wire. This also allows me to open the SSC when required and get to the board for any changes that may be needed. I will also be putting a strain relief on the lower wire above the cap so that it cannot be pulled from the board is something snags the wire. I may also put a sheet metal screw into the joint between the uper cap and the body so the case cannot be pulled apart for the same reason.
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I did not worry about the top. I did put the caps on the bottom and wipe a thin film of clear silicon rtv on the edge of the joint to seal them. You can then still take them off.
Sent from my Charge by Tapatalk
RJ
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Step 16 of the SSC assembly manual seems a bit ambiguous - looks like the picture shows putting the wires through the strain relief, then stripping them? Using my old hobby knife as a stripper, that would be pretty tedious. I found it easier to strip the wires, twist and tin the leads, then insert the wire through the strain relief, back down through the solder holes, and finally solder into place.
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For the cat5, I just soldered through the insulation and then snipped off the excess. The heat of the solder burned through that insulation with no problem at all. Now on the other end, I had to strip the wires first to get it through the holes...
RM
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I'll admit I was a bit lost attaching the cat5 to the SSC also. I ended up trimming very little off the ends and just tinning them with some solder. It then made them so much each to feed into the tiny SSC holes and then solder in from the other side (with just a little bit of solder). I had wondered if this was the best way or is this an even better way? Those holes are really close and I worried a lot about bridging them, but didn't. I felt like I was operating on stick of gum.