Author Topic: measuring amps.  (Read 2898 times)

Offline ebrady

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Re: measuring amps.
« Reply #15 on: April 18, 2012, »
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when i'm expecting to see amps, it's reading a much smaller number in mA

With no intent of insulting your intelligence or any electrical knowledge , did you move the DMM lead to either the 300ma Fused or 20A non fused connector?   When I get tired or distracted this is a mistake I have made from time to time.


Offline taybrynn

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Re: measuring amps.
« Reply #16 on: April 18, 2012, »
At least with the Watts Up (more expensive versio of the Kill-o-Watt) ... a typical retail string of LED lights would barely register, so I finally just decided that it was such a small amount of amps that I wouldn't worry about it.

And now with smart strings, I'm just using a xxx watts ATX power supply and giving it plenty of power for the worst case and factoring a max of 70 or 80% of the power supply can be used by the smart string items ... and only using 80 PLUS or better (efficiency rated) single rail ATX power supplies.   

The fact that the actual use is almost always highly variable, you might as well use the max or worst-case for planning and just be happy with it.

Just an opinion.
Scott - Castle Rock, Colorado   [ 2 homes, 100% RGB in 2016; since 2008; over 32k channels of E1.31 ]
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Offline Zeph

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Re: measuring amps - some clarification
« Reply #17 on: April 20, 2012, »
You may want to measure (or calculate an estimate for) amps for the sake of
  (1) buying a large enough power supply or debugging
  (2) checking the ampacity of your wiring
  (3) checking the voltage drop of your wiring

If instead you are concerned about input power and your power bills, I agree that you would do better using one of the AC mains power meters like the Kil-o-watt - this can factor in the real power supply efficiency.

These are two different things, tho.

Also, regarding "varying current" this happens in two way on two timescales.  When you are showing an individual pixel at 20% of max brightness (eg: at intensity 51 of a 0-255 scale) the chip next to the LED inside the pixel housing will be turning the LED on and off many times per second, perhaps hundreds so that you don't see flicker, so it can keep it on about 20% of the time.  The high frequency is so you don't perceive it as flickering.  The overall current draw will be a combination of these many individual and unsyncrhonized PWM current draws, so it'll be pretty jumpy on a millisecond time scale.  Your DMM could be sampling that value at various points and not averaging it well, so it may have unstable or inaccurate readings.  The analog meter (and maybe GOOD DMMs) will be more stable. 

And of course, there is a different variance in that you will be turning pixels to various brightness levels during your sequences.  Hopefully you realize that you would not want to be varying the lights while you are measuring them with the DMM, tho.   This is the varying timescale that Nutcracker (or Vixen for that matter) could estimate for any given sequence step.

So there's input AC input power to pay for vs DC current to plan wiring, and there's PWM noise to confuse DMMs vs sequence controlled brightness changes.  All are valid things to consider, but different.

Offline chrisatpsu

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Re: measuring amps.
« Reply #18 on: April 20, 2012, »
so then i should find a fuse for my analog meter to get an average (since the needle cant respond THAT fast)
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Offline smeighan

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Re: measuring amps.
« Reply #19 on: April 21, 2012, »
i should probably get my current meter turned back on within the next week or two (I am working a LOR export issue currently).

I will modify the current meter to be a power meter. That way i can use a univeral measurement irregardless of voltage of the strings.
Sean
Littleton, CO
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