DiyLightAnimation
Hardware => Lynx MR16 / 16 CH DC Controller => Topic started by: cpnbnanamn on September 01, 2011,
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Just finished building my controller, and everything appears to be working perfectly, with the exception of changing the starting address of the device. I've tried both of the methods listed in the manual... No go. Anyone have any other tricks?
-Roger
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This is not intended to be rude in any way.
But I have found that for me the trick is to take my time doing it.
It does not care how slow you go, but it will not work if you go too fast.
And be sure to do each step exactly how it is written.
What I do is
I do step 1, give it a few seconds to do its thing.
While it is doing what ever, even if that is sitting with the power off.
(delay)
I read step 2.
Then I re read step 2
Then I do step 2. Give it a few seconds.
(delay)
Then I read step 3
I reread step 3
Then I do step 3. I give it a few seconds.
(delay)
And so on
Sorry if that came across to bad in a typed message.
But I have found that if I really take my time and go slow, it usually works.
-Jeff
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Thanks, Jeff. No luck. Tried the two processes twice.
-Roger
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I would reflash the pic and make sure you are just taking the power (negative) lead on and off and not turning the power supply on and off
Just asking the basics, You have the dongle connected to the computer and the controller connected to the dongle. Also the dongle has DMX on the pic and not pixelnet
Rick R.
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Ok well that's one thing I wasn't doing.. I was just killing the PS. Let me try that first. Thanks!
-Roger
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And that was a no go, too. Looks like I need a pic flash.
-Roger
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What are you powering it with?
What voltage and how much current can it supply?
Normally when they will not program and the person is doing everything correct is is do to low voltage or a bad pic.
RJ
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What are you powering it with?
What voltage and how much current can it supply?
Normally when they will not program and the person is doing everything correct is is do to low voltage or a bad pic.
RJ
I'm using a 24VDC 6.4A power supply. I've followed your instructions to the letter regarding addressing. It just won't change.
-Roger
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I thought I was "following the directions to the letter" but I really wasn't.
To program the Lynx Controller/Dimmer.
Step 1 - Turn off power to controller and move jumper to program mode
Step 2 - Run RJ's Lynx Address Program and select address you need. Click on Program button Click here to download if needed, Lynx Address Utility
Step 3 - Turn on controller and count to 5
Step 4 - Turn off controller and move jumper back to operation mode
Step 5 - Click Stop on the Lynx Address Program
Step 6 - Turn on controller and use your selected program to see if controller is now on the correct start address.
What I was doing (because I didn't think it would matter) was:
I turned off the power. Moved the jumper to Program. Turned on the power.
Then, I clicked Program on the address program, counted to 5, then went to step 4.
I'm guessing (and RJ could confirm) that the Programming Data String must already be present on the CAT5 when the MR16 controller powers up so it can catch the information during bootup. Otherwise, it either ignores the programming information or just can't do anything with it.
It was more convenient my way, but it didn't work. :(
So, a more fool proof set of instructions should include LEAVE THE POWER OFF at the end of Step 1.
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Tried that, and variations on that.. still a no go. Need to see about getting the PIC flashed.
-Roger
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Yes I would try a reflash as something is not right. The MR16 normally is easy to program the address into.
RJ
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RJ, other than putting a "sticky label" on the MR-16, is there any way to know what address you assigned to it?
I'm going to be adding several more and the prospect of losing my label is distinct possibility.
Could it possibly flash/count out the start address on power up? (Firmware change, I know :( )
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I just write the start address with permanent marker on the case where it won't be seen. Like the back on the inside
Rick R.
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Yes I would try a reflash as something is not right. The MR16 normally is easy to program the address into.
RJ
Ok.. I know I've been procrastinating, but because I'm out of town A LOT, I haven't had the time to address this.. much less buy a Pickit and do the programming myself.. So I find myself on need of a little help. Does ANYONE have a PIC for the MR16 they can shoot to me? I will return mine to you. I just need a known working PIC for my MR16 so that I can ATTEMPT to get my display up and running for this year.
-Roger
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Is it just running on channel #1 or is it not working?
RJ
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Is it just running on channel #1 or is it not working?
RJ
It runs if I leave it on channel 1. None of my sequences have the MR16 on channel one, though. I still cant change the starting address.
-Roger
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Hi Roger,
I had a similar problem with one of the three I was changing the start channel on. After several attempts I programmed the pick again and then tried to set it but it still wouldn't program to the channel I wanted, after several tries and a few terse words I got it yah!!
I used the second option to set it;
OPTIONAL Way if the above doesn't work - From RJ
Step 1 - Start with the MR16.
Step 2 - Turn it on and using my address utility start it sending the address you want out.
Step 3 - With the MR16 still powered carefully move the jumper.
Step 4 - Count to 3 seconds.
Step 5 - pull the plug on the MR16.
Step 6 - put the jumper back to operate and power it back up.
I have edited this to avoid confusion.
Strange the others programmed without any problems but one was a real pain? All good now so the right lights are doing the right things :-) Good luck with yours.
Kev :-)
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If you are having problems getting the address utility to work, you can also use DMX deck to program the start channel.
Open DMX deck and make sure that it is set to the correct COM port for your Dongle. Make sure that you are using a Dongle programmed for DMX and not Pixelnet.
Set the first slider to channel 1 and set the dimming level to the start channel you want to program. If your start channel is greater than 255, set channel 1 to 255 and set the second slider to channel 2 and set the dimming level to your start channel minus 255.
Then follow the normal steps to program the controller.
Step 3 - With the MR16 still powered carefully move the jumper.
Step 4 - Count to 3 seconds.
Step 5 - pull the plug on the MR16.
Step 6 - put the jumper back to operate and power it back up.
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If you are having problems getting the address utility to work, you can also use DMX deck to program the start channel.
Open DMX deck and make sure that it is set to the correct COM port for your Dongle. Make sure that you are using a Dongle programmed for DMX and not Pixelnet.
Set the first slider to channel 1 and set the dimming level to the start channel you want to program. If your start channel is greater than 255, set channel 1 to 255 and set the second slider to channel 2 and set the dimming level to your start channel minus 255.
Then follow the normal steps to program the controller.
Step 3 - With the MR16 still powered carefully move the jumper.
Step 4 - Count to 3 seconds.
Step 5 - pull the plug on the MR16.
Step 6 - put the jumper back to operate and power it back up.
Where can I get DMX Deck?
-Roger
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Where can I get DMX Deck?
-Roger
Wiki Software page
http://www.diylightanimation.com/wiki/index.php?title=Software#Windows_Programs
Rick R.
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It's not an executable. I get a .php file. How to kick it off?
-Roger
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It is if you don't use FireFox. Try another browser
Rick R.
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Tried it in IE. It asks if I want to open or save. I hit open.. I get a flash, then nada. WTH?
-Roger
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Save the Zip file to your computer. Extract all of the files and run the setup program. If you are using Windows 7 then right click on the setup program and run as administrator
Rick R.
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When I click on the link for DMX Deck, I get prompted to download a file called index.php. No zip file. Am I looking in the wrong place?
-Roger
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Try downloading it using internet explorer instead of firefox.
When I click on the link for DMX Deck, I get prompted to download a file called index.php. No zip file. Am I looking in the wrong place?
-Roger
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Ok.. got DMX Deck running. NO go. Tried it a couple of times. No luck.
-Roger
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I also had the same problem using the latest version of Firefox. Went back on using Chrome and everything was ok, especially downloading of the files. You have to save the file and extract it in a folder of your choice. Hope this helps you..
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Well, I still haven't been able to change the starting address. Can anyone help me out with a PIC?
-Roger
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If you send me the PIC, I'm in FL, I'll get it back to you asap, let me know,
Bill
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I'm having same problem on my MR16 controller.
Controller works, but can't change starting channel. I know that my Lynx DMX dongle is set right with address utility: if I put MR16 in operate mode and turn on Lynx address utility, brightness on first channel changes. Let say I want to set channel 17 and hit program brightness on 1st channel will be dim, if I set starting channel 98 and hit program, same channel 1 will be brighter, so it looks like address utility sending a code via DMX.
I've reflashed PIC, made no difference. I'm waiting on some parts from Mouser so I can build second MR16. Will try if that will work, if it will - I'll just program starting channel and swap PIC's. If it wont, will start some troubleshooting. Will keep you updated
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Mystery solved in my case. It actually was a bad PIC. I built second MR16 controller, programmed it to channel 17, It worked from the first time. Then Installed PIC from my first controller and tried to program it to channel 17, it would still stay on channel 1. So it is a bad PIC. It's kind of weird : It would flash, reflash, erase from that IC using my computer and pickit 3.
Also I've copied hex from good PIC that I programmed for starting channel 17 to the bad one and controller works just fine starting from channel 17. So it is something strange with that PIC that doesn't allow me to write from either Lynx utility or MR16 controller.
Anyway mow I know I was doing everything right.
This is my first year doing Lynx boards, and I'm so Impressed with results!
Many many thanks to RJ and everyone on this site.
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Well.. I don't think I need to worry about programming the starting channel on my MR16 anymore. I screwed up. Was trying to neaten some things up between my power supply and controller board, and accidentally reversed the polarity. <md.. went the 7805(Let out all the magic smoke!) Replaced it, but getting NO lights on the board. Now what???
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Well there could be a lot of reasons why there is still no lights. If you also fried some components, there could be a short across those parts causing a black out on the board. Could be the capacitors on both sides of the 7805.
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Well the 7805 did actually fry.. and blew a chunk out of itself. I'm way out of practice on my electronic theory. I know how to test electrolytic caps, but don't know how I should go about testing the little ceramic caps. on either side. Is there a schematic in the wiki?
-Roger
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First step it to put your digital meter on it to see if you are getting the 5 volts you should. Putting the meter across the middle pin of the 7805 and one other pin should get you 12v (input voltage) and then swapping to the other side should get you 5 volts.
This will tell you if you have a power problem. You likely damaged the pic and TLC5940 chips.
RJ
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Thanks, RJ. I'll check that as soon as I get home. Meanwhile, I've ordered another MR16 through the CO-OP to replace this one. Grrr Expensive mistake!!!
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GREAT NEWS!!! It's ALIVE!!! At least to the extent it was before. Turns out, I had a land tear on the input pin when I was replacing the blown 7805, and when I touched the meter probe to it, it completed the ckt, and the damn thing lit up!! Fixed the solder joint, and VIOLA!! Now back to getting the addressing to work. I have tried reflashing the PIC (finally got my own Pickit3), and so far no joy.
-Roger
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i did both address change methods on my ssr4's, mr16's and freestyles to program them... it wasn't that i had trouble, i just wanted to make sure.
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Good thing it was not something more serious. I always had to use the second method to get my ssr4 to program. I have not built my mr16 yet,but i bet it will be the same.