Cutting Flex Strips

[tng5737]

Could you post a photo of the traces?

[RJ]

Even Better!

 A Video!

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RJ

[smartcontrols]

Thanks for the information everyone.
I knew you electronics people would figure it out.

Just wanted to give everyone a heads up, before they had a frustrating weekend too.

[urthegman]

Thanks RJ, Turns out it would have been a non-issue for me since I am cutting mine exactly at the 3 meter mark. Question, is the program jumper part of the smart string controller or is it something we would need to add on? George
 

[rrowan]

Thanks RJ, Turns out it would have been a non-issue for me since I am cutting mine exactly at the 3 meter mark. Question, is the program jumper part of the smart string controller or is it something we would need to add on? George
 

The jumper is a required part of the SSC and will be in the kit from Bill, its main function with standard firmware is to set program mode or operation mode just like other Lynx hardware (MR-16, Freestyle, SSR4-DMX). With the test firmware it sets two modes of testing.

Cheers

Rick R.

[urthegman]

Thank you Rick for your concise and informative answer!

[therealbigjim]

good info , little sea sick

[Rbar]

You wouldn't have to make very many cuts before you'd have the pieces to splice a cut and unpowered section to a cut section with the original diode in place.
With RJ's explanation, you could work within the original power design in many situations.
I don't know if that matters though.

[taybrynn]

Had anyone considered using these connectors from Ray' store to connect the flex strip?

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I know there could also be a limited use for these new end caps as well:

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Anyways, this has been a very informative thread, thanks !!

[jeffcoast]

Those are designed for 4 wire, the ones RJ uses are 3 wire.

[taybrynn]

yes, your right ... I have from 4-wire strips, so forgot that these would not work on the SS strips.

I have been contemplating the use of 4-wire quick connectors instead of SS 3-wire ones ... mainly because they are cheap in volume and they could work on either 3 or 4 wire ... connections.

[Corey872]

Just wanted to follow up on this - I've cut some of my strips up to make window frames and (of course) now they are acting funny.

In looking at the strips, you mentioned the 1 meter lengths and the diodes and/or pads where diodes should be.  But it looks like in the shuffle from full strips to window frames, mine got cut a little different.  I will try to explain:  Looking at the original / OEM flex strips:

Most if not all of mine seem to start with an R1 resistor, then a segment with a diode, then 3 blank space segments, so the sequence of each 3 LED segment is like:

R1
Diode
Blank Pads
Blank Pads
Blank Pads
[solder joints to next flex strip segment]
R1
Diode
Blank Pads
Blank Pads
Blank Pads
[solder joints to next flex strip segment]

This completes one 1 meter section, then the pattern repeats throughout the strip.

So I cut them up and made the frames thinking as long as I started with either a resistor or diode, I'd be fine. So I wound up with:

Frame 1

Diode
Blank Pads
Blank Pads
Blank Pads
Diode
R1
Diode
Blank Pads
Blank Pads [string works fine to here]
[this is all black]
Diode
Blank Pads
R1
Diode
Diode
Blank Pads
Blank Pads
Blank Pads
Blank Pads
....

Frame 2

R1
Diode
Blank Pads
Blank Pads [String works to here]

[this is all black]
R1
Diode
Blank Pads
Blank Pads
Blank Pads
...

I've checked both frames and they seem to have 12 volt power all the way through.  I would not think having extra diodes is a bad thing...5 diodes in parallel would be able to move the same amount of power (and more) compared to one diode - correct?  I'm also curious why frame 2 seems to go dark right at the point where the sequence is actually correct (R1, D1, blank, blank, blank)  Plus if I add more jumpers to working sections, its not like they go out - they just keep working.

I've tried the exact same controller on a virgin strip and it lights all the way through - so doesn't seem to be a controller issue.

One thought which seems pretty far fetched - The OEM string has VC+, GND, GND, In/Out tabs, I notice the input wires are soldered VC+, GND, [skip], In/out, then throughout the string the tabs are soldered 1:1 across the bridges.  When I did mine, I just lumped the two grounds together throughout the string, thinking more ground would be better.  Can't see this making a difference, plus why would two segments work and not a third?  I've double checked that all segments are 'flowing' correctly...in>out>in>out, etc.

Any thoughts / suggestions are appreciated!

[cBell]

The most frequent problem I ran across when using cut flex strips is if you cut them somewhere that is not already a solder joint, and then solder to the DIN pad, I think the ground runs right below the DIN pad and more often than not I would bridge the ground and DIN together (check with a continuity meter).  The solder just seems to want to wick around the front of the strip and connect to the ground.  That caused most of my not working issues.  The best way I found to prevent it was to make sure there was a bit of solder mask left when I made the cut to prevent the solder from wicking around the front.  They are really touchy.

It doesn't sound like you are doing this, but be aware there are problems if you intend on getting data out of DOUT and it's not a pre-soldered joint.

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I would check all your connection points and make sure you don't accidentally have the data line connected to ground.