Author Topic: Smart String Wiring  (Read 3572 times)

Offline JimWright

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Smart String Wiring
« on: April 27, 2011, »
I just got my TH2010-X tester from Ray. I can't wait to try it. However, I have what is probably a stupid question. I have looked all around the DLA site and can't find the answer. I am sure that it is here somewhere, but I am having a senior moment and can't find it. Which wire on the smart strings does what? Which color wire has which function? For those that have used the TH2010, how do you actually connect the strings to the controller? I hate to admit it, but I can't read Chinese.  ;D Jim
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Offline Pete

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Re: Smart String Wiring
« Reply #1 on: April 27, 2011, »
Try this:


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I'm not really sure what the max current capacity is on these units the manual doesn't really say!
First of all be careful about wiring these the same way I did - your wiring MAY be different!
With that caveat in mind, if you look at the last pix (from prevous post) you can see the wires going to the square nodes (RD=V+;Gn=Di;BL=Gnd)
Also, in this case I was driving the nodes and controller from the 12v/1amp wallwart plugged into the right side of the controller.
For the Rectangles, Flex strips and 128 Node string, I used a 600W computer power supply to provide the power.
here is a summary of my wiring connections.
Flex String --> Rd=V+;Gn=Gnd;Bl=Din
128 Nodes --> Rd=V+;Gn=Gnd;Bl=Din
Rectangles --> Rd=V+;Gn=Din;Bl=Gnd (note the switch in gn and blue)
Squares --> Rd=V+;Gn=Din;Bl=Gnd

Here is a link to an english version of the manual.  It is a little confusing so you have to play with it a bit.
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Basically, with the power off you press the '-','+', and 'Mode' buttons simultaneously. then press just the 'Mode' key - this gets you into the setup mode.
From there you can enable or disable the 'auto' mode and set the speed and node counts.  You can also set the unit to be a 'Master' or 'Slave'
The unit has a RX and TX connection so you can slave multiple units.  
The description says that it can drive 512,1024 or 2048 depending on model.  When I power my unit on it says TH2010-AA so it is capable of 2048 nodes in High Speed or 1024 in Slow.

I have uploaded a little video to illustrate some of its modes and how the 128 node string look in action.
The patterns won't make much sense since the nodes are all bundle up -but I didn't feel like re-wrapping all of the string - again!
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« Last Edit: April 27, 2011, by Pete »

Offline Rainlover

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Re: Smart String Wiring
« Reply #2 on: April 27, 2011, »
Jim,
Read the quote that Pete posted. There are different wiring for different types of smart string. The entire thread is You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login
I just got my controller yesterday and the first thing I did was print out the manual. It is not really clear, but it gives you a little guidance.
I got my nodes to light up and dance, but I haven't figured out the ins and outs of the controller yet.

John
Life isn't about how to survive the storm, but how to dance in the rain!

Offline Freebird

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Re: Smart String Wiring
« Reply #3 on: April 27, 2011, »
Jim.

  I was in the same boat.  But first thing you need to do is go into the setup part of the controller.  Set it for your node count.  Mine was set at only 15 and I was getting real upset and almost fired off an email to Ray WU that what I bought wasn't working.  Then I figured out if all the strings are only lighting 15 nodes somethins is wrong.  I set the controller to light 50 and they all worked.  Okay, some things I found out..  you really can't hurt the string or nodes with this controller.  Play around with it a bit.  If you are using the pixels like I am,  Red and positive 12v from power supply go together and connect to the 12v screw,  Green and Negative from power supply go the grn screw.  And blue from the string goes to the DIM1 screw.  Start pushing the buttons on the controller.  Eventually it will get to a point where it runs thru all the programs and you can see how the lights change colors to different programs in the controller.  IF you get nothing.  Connect the other end of the string instead.  I had it backwards a few times and then I could finally notice that the correct end was already trimmed out for when Ray's team tested them.

BY the way  with all of my 16 strings, I found 2 nodes that didn't light up at all and a few that the red was not working.  Ray will be replacing these on my next order.

Hope all this helps.

Freebird
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Offline keitha43

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Re: Smart String Wiring
« Reply #4 on: April 27, 2011, »
Mine is due to come in today. Was it posted somewhere on how to tell which is the input and output of the leds? Don't want to wire it backwards!

Offline Freebird

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Re: Smart String Wiring
« Reply #5 on: April 27, 2011, »
Nothing is printed on the SS pixel nodes or wiring.  For me it was trial and error.  
Freebird
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Offline Rainlover

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Re: Smart String Wiring
« Reply #6 on: April 27, 2011, »
The side of the node with the chip on it is the input side. Here is a doc with more information.
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Hope that helps

John
Life isn't about how to survive the storm, but how to dance in the rain!

Offline keitha43

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Re: Smart String Wiring
« Reply #7 on: April 27, 2011, »
Thanks that is exactly what I need.

Offline JimWright

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Re: Smart String Wiring
« Reply #8 on: April 27, 2011, »
I am back! Thanks to all of you for the above information. That is what I needed. This community is great. Does anyone know how to re-initialize (or reboot) the controller? I have run into 2 problems, probably both related. First, I can't get above 95 nodes. I actually got it to 95 OK, but I set it to 96 and everything blew up.
1. When you turn on the controller, it will only do 1 of what ever mode you are in and then the controller freezes. The off button will not work. The only way to un-freeze it is to cut the power.
2. In setup, I can no longer change the number of nodes. It is stuck on 96 and won't let me change it.
3. Setup will not let me get past the number of nodes to set the rest (it used to).

Any Ideas? <fp.
Jim W
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Offline Freebird

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Re: Smart String Wiring
« Reply #9 on: April 27, 2011, »
Can you get into the setup mode?
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Offline JimWright

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Re: Smart String Wiring
« Reply #10 on: April 27, 2011, »
Yes I can, but can not get further than the node number setting. I could earlier. I have an idea. I am going to change strings and see if that makes a difference.
Jim
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Offline tng5737

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Re: Smart String Wiring
« Reply #11 on: April 27, 2011, »
The buttons on your unit may be bad - try putting pressure in one direction or another.   If you open the unit up and mannually press the buttons you may be able to confirm that THEY are the problem!

Offline Rainlover

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Re: Smart String Wiring
« Reply #12 on: April 27, 2011, »
When I was playing with my controller last night, it would freeze up on certain patterns. I think it froze up on pattern 26 and 32 or something like that. I could unplug it and it would revert back to pattern 30. I am sure I screwed something up in the setup.
I'll play with it some more when I get home.

John
Life isn't about how to survive the storm, but how to dance in the rain!

Offline taybrynn

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Re: Smart String Wiring
« Reply #13 on: April 27, 2011, »
What are you all powering this controller with?  (12v, # amps ?)

I'm still wondering how the ATX power supply will know to turn on via. the SS controller, or if it'll just be on all the time.
Scott - Castle Rock, Colorado   [ 2 homes, 100% RGB in 2016; since 2008; over 32k channels of E1.31 ]
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Offline JimWright

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Re: Smart String Wiring
« Reply #14 on: April 27, 2011, »
Here is the latest status. The next thing I tried was to change strings. This seemed to help for a while, then the same thing started to happen. The controller will only go thru 1 routine of whatever mode it is stuck in (right now it is a chase from the controller in blue). Then the controller hangs up. The off button will not work. I have to disconnect the power and then reapply it. Then it will work 1 time again. I have found that if I disconnect the data lead from the string and then re-power the controller, I can program the controller with no problem. The problem is when I program it with the strings completely connected. As to power supplies, I have used 2 different methods. One is using a wall wart and the other is using a bench 12 v regulated power supply. Actually, things happen a little differently when I use different power supplies, but the results are about the same. Any other suggestions?  :-[
Jim
Jim Wright