DiyLightAnimation
Hardware => Lynx Smart String => Topic started by: deplanche on July 24, 2012,
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I am trying to make a frame out of some flex strips to go inside a window. I'd add a photo, but since I don't have it built yet, that would be hard to do. :) But basically, I want to make a rectangle that is 20" wide by 12" high, which seems to work fairly well with locations to cut a flex strip. But before I got cutting things up, I had a few questions.
1. Anyone have any good suggestions on how to make a 90° turn with some flex strips? I am thinking I am going to cut the strip, then solder on a short wire to each of the pads to reconnect the strips, and then the wire will provide enough flexibility to make the turn. Seems like that would work, but wanted to see if there were any better ideas out there.
2. I think i have the older strips because there are the diode locations on it, and some diodes too. But if I do the above, since I am just cutting and reconnecting, I shouldn't have to worry about adding any jumpers, right?
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If you just cut the strip and run wires between the two cut points should work just fine. Just be careful that you get your extension wires done point to point without any crossovers.
Are you planning to mount the cut strips inside a sealable tube or channel. You don't want water to get into the flex strip.
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If all goes as planned, these will fit inside my window frames so they will be inside and well protected from water, so not too worried about that.
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wont do you much good at the moment, but for others in the future etc - Ray sells a 90 deg corner piece on his site in the accessories section....
Myk
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I cut some old flex strips to do this exact same thing. Turned out to be a nightmare. "You can cut every three nodes" it said. While this is true, just don't expect to send power/data back into the cut-off section and have it work. Even adding the diode jumpers don't make it 100%. There used to be a thread posted about it, but in some cases you also have to... uh... do things which are probably too technical to talk about here... if you actually want the cut end of the string to work.
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I cut some old flex strips to do this exact same thing. Turned out to be a nightmare. "You can cut every three nodes" it said. While this is true, just don't expect to send power/data back into the cut-off section and have it work. Even adding the diode jumpers don't make it 100%. There used to be a thread posted about it, but in some cases you also have to... uh... do things which are probably too technical to talk about here... if you actually want the cut end of the string to work.
There's a thread here:
http://diylightanimation.com/index.php?topic=8906.0
These are the "NEW" 2012 Flexstrips that do not have the Diode at the beginning of the LED 1809IC based Flexstrips
I can confirm that with the new Flexstrips, you MUST start with a strip from the soldered end and then you can make the cut between any of the unsoldered or soldered cut locations (every 3rd LED). Then you MUST move to the next free SOLDERED part of the strip to make the next strip you want to cut.
If you try to connect the smart string controller to a non-soldered end and then make the next cut at any of the cut section, it doesn't work.
If you are working with the "OLD" Flexstrips with the Diode at the beginning of the strip, here's the thread on cutting them and how it might affect the Data Out:
http://diylightanimation.com/index.php?topic=6020.0
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According to Ray - the "new" 1809 flex - the pcb has been redone to allow cutting at any joint - soldered or not - the 2012 I have is the same way - I am able to separate at any 4 led joint and have no problem with inbound
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According to Ray - the "new" 1809 flex - the pcb has been redone to allow cutting at any joint - soldered or not - the 2012 I have is the same way - I am able to separate at any 4 led joint and have no problem with inbound
That's goot to know.
It would then seem that there are at least 3 types of LED Flexstrips then, all with different cutting approaches.
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I don't see three types here. What you are describing is the issue with the older strips. You can cut them at just about any cut point but the cut ends only work from either a solder joint or by adding the missig components.
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I have been curious to see what a frame would look like if I fed the flex strip through the pvc and 90 degree elbows so tha the thinwalled pvc would act diffuser. It is the same concept as the flex strips in the pvc for arches.
I see the elbows causing prioblems (double the thickness so not as good of diffusion).
but still want to give it a shot.
Grant
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I don't see three types here. What you are describing is the issue with the older strips. You can cut them at just about any cut point but the cut ends only work from either a solder joint or by adding the missig components.
Correct me if I'm wrong:
1. Earlier Flexstrips when cutting, you needed to solder across the diode section
2. Later Flexstrips, when cutting, you need to cut at a solder joint, but didn't need to solder across the diode section, since their isn't one
3. Latest Flexstrips, the pcb has been redone to allow cutting at any joint - soldered or not
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Corrections need to be made, because on some strings it's not only about the diode but about the data line not being correct as well. ...at least in the case where you want to re-link the cut strips. I'm just not sure where to specifically apply the corrections.
If you want to cut the strip and apply another SSC to the remainder, things may be different.
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I am not sure what version of the flex strips I have, so I attached some photos. There are 5 sections of 3 nodes each before it repeats.
Section 1 is typical right after a soldered joint, or where the wires are attached to the strip. There is a resistor, R1, installed and no diode before the first LED.
Section 2 is the next section, and does not have the resistor before the LED, but there is a diode installed.
Sections 3, 4, and 5 all look the same to me, and have a spot for a diode, but no diode installed. After Section 5, there is a soldered joint and then a Section 1.
I am pretty sure I can start a new section at a soldered joint, but is it possible to start at any other locations? If so, are any modifications required?
How about ending a section, are there any requirements where that can happen besides at a joint?
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Ok, tried to upload photos, but it won't seem to let me.
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Photos
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More Photos
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Yours look just like the ones that I received a month ago. I called them the 2012 version in a previous post. I have only cut mine in half in order to do up down on a short pixel tree and I saw no way to turn the strip and have the leds face outward. I put 3 pin connectors on all the inputs and a 3 pin connector on the cut end output. Works great. I did find that just putting the 3 pin connectors on made the connection stiff so I put a piece of 3 wire cable between the connector and the input end of the cut spot. This also makes all the inputs alike.
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Yours look just like the ones that I received a month ago. I called them the 2012 version in a previous post. I have only cut mine in half in order to do up down on a short pixel tree and I saw no way to turn the strip and have the leds face outward. I put 3 pin connectors on all the inputs and a 3 pin connector on the cut end output. Works great. I did find that just putting the 3 pin connectors on made the connection stiff so I put a piece of 3 wire cable between the connector and the input end of the cut spot. This also makes all the inputs alike.
Did you get these from Ray Jim or somewhere else?
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Ray is the only place to get the smart string lights. I just finished programming my SSCs and laid the lights out flat on a bed in a tree shape. Looked real good. My wife said if I put only one thing up this year it had to be the tree. She loves it. I have 8 flexstrips cut in half and then connected back together to make 8 strings but ending up with 16 strands counting the up and down. Now to work on my tree mounting and getting my nutcracker effects into vixen to play with. On RJs demo tree he had only 8 strands and I think having the density of 16 strands makes it look much better. This will only be a half tree (180 deg).
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Having major problems getting things to work.
If I cut, or more accurately desolder at the soldered joints, then everything works if I either leave it cut or rejoin to the rest if the strip...even adding a wire spacer in between to make a 90 degree turn.
But if I cut between the pads at any other location, there are problems. The first half connected to the SSC works fine,no matter what the length. But if I try to reconnect the two portions, there are no lights beyond the cut. I've tried it with different size and lengths if wire just to be sure I am not adding too much resistance, and none have worked. I seem to have power if I check the pads farther down, but still no lights.
I also tried to cut the strips on a pad rather than between two, and then reconnect without a wire...much like it seems they were done on the factory joints. when I do this I blow a fuse on the hub and get no lights anywhere.
Any ideas????
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Can you post pictures of your splices? That would help in debugging.
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if you look closely at a non soldered join there is a trace from the cut off part that runs back thru the joint to reconnect to the data output. This is what has been changed in Ray's new ones. There is a thread here somewhere with a pic on where to find it on the back and run a small wire back to the data input pad. I will see if I can find it again....
Found it: http://diylightanimation.com/index.php?topic=6020.msg94283#msg94283 (http://diylightanimation.com/index.php?topic=6020.msg94283#msg94283)
Myk
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Ugh, <yk.. what a messy situation. At least it's fixable.
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Hmmmm, with the number of these bends that I was planning on doing, I think I am going to have to rethink was I was going to do. Seems fixable, but too much work and too much of a chance for errors. Thanks for the info.
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I wonder if anybody has approached Ray about this design problem?
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Sounds to me like they have been incrementally improving the design.
If you want something that can be cut between every node, you will have to be willing pay a lot more for it... 1 chip per node cost more than 1 chip per 4 nodes to manufacture.
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For the 3D star on top of my megatree I am going to replace the old rope lights with some dumb string nodes from Ray. Way to many bends on something like that to even consider a flexstrip and would be way to much work.
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"the tm1809 strip can be cut now, please see the below link, we updated the PCB,and re-designed it".
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/4m-waterproof-LED-digital-strip-by-tube-DC12V-input-without-controller-10pcs-TM1809IC-m-30pcs-5050/701799_425556741.html (http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/4m-waterproof-LED-digital-strip-by-tube-DC12V-input-without-controller-10pcs-TM1809IC-m-30pcs-5050/701799_425556741.html)
I would send a question before purchase to double verify he is going to send the "new" pcb version....
Myk