WIRELESS DMX PROJECT UPDATE

[RJ]

The DMX2 output on the version 3 Express is the only one that outputs the Wireless DMX as wired DMX. I am sorry but the wireless was not going to be like this when it started out it was a improvement made from input of users to do it so you got a splitter out of it also.

If you have a ver 2 PCB that you need this on and it is not built yet you can use your parts and change just the PCB out. All the parts are the same. Then add three parts for about $2 and you have a version 3 unit. If you do not need this you are missing nothing.

Next I hope all of you have seen this post :
You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login

One user read this to mean there would be no other wireless modules for the other Lynx equipment. This is not correct at all. The express module example was just that an example. The first line says Lynx Equipment not Express. I do not want any other person confused on it.

The wireless for the other items as always will follow after a successful beta of the Express modules.  They are based on the same circuits so development of them is really already done. In fact in the video of the wireless working, if you notice the proto is feeding the signal to the express via cat5 as I have no modules yet (waiting on the PCB's) so if you think about it what I am working with is already the next device (cat5 DMX out).

I know everyone is excited about the wireless, none more than me. But hang on and keep the speculation in check for a few more weeks and then if all goes well I will be able to release all of the nitty gritty of the units. Pictures, Video, and explanation of how they work.

Understand, the above posted statement is not even about Lynx users, Lynx users will be able to have all the wireless they can use. It is about not making it the cheap route for every DJ to add wireless to their shows.  It is about not competing with commercial companies like LOR for their wireless market. It is about adding even more value to being a Lynx user than we already have.

The wireless is a beginning not an end to where we are going with the Lynx Equipment.
The stuff in the pipe you do not even know about makes the wireless boring!

We will be working on a cheap plug in module for the Freestyles that make them work just like a 128 channel External Express with display, LNT, and all for FS users and a redesign for new FS users to have it built in.

Next years has some toys that will have you as excited about them as the wireless if not more.

I am not trying to create the best DIY equipment for holiday lighting.  I am trying to create the best holiday lighting equipment for the home user who will DIY. There is a difference in the two.

Amazing things have been happing at DLA lately. With the current Coop we will exceed 500 Express's going out to users since the beginning of the year . 

For some fun facts on The LYNX Controllers:

There is 41,828 channels of LYNX equipment out in a year and a half. 
This does not include the over 250 Expresses and 615 SSR4's in coops right now.

If you attach only one string of 100 count minis to each channel of the Lynx Equipment that has been sent out in the last year and a half. You would have almost 4.2 million lights in use.   

The current draw to run this would be 13803 amps or 1,656,360 watts. 

So please blink them don't leave them on or the planet will burn up!!!! LOL

RJ

[Blackbeard]

RJ,

I'm building my first LE right now that I purchased last December. I have the parts for the Version 3.0, but the one I'm building currently is a Version 2.0. I'm not seeing how I am to add the additional parts. Am I to modify the board some how? A little explanation might help me here. I have soldered up through the fuse holders, so am I too late?

Thanks -

steve

[rrowan]

RJ,

I'm building my first LE right now that I purchased last December. I have the parts for the Version 3.0, but the one I'm building currently is a Version 2.0. I'm not seeing how I am to add the additional parts. Am I to modify the board some how? A little explanation might help me here. I have soldered up through the fuse holders, so am I too late?

Thanks -

steve

Hi Steve,

If you need dmx out while using the up and coming wireless module then what RJ was saying was you need to take the parts off of the ver2 pcb and put them on ver3 pcb.

If you don't need that and/or not using wireless than just build the ver2 board. There is no other difference (besides the 2 leds).

Rick R.

[ThaiWay]

RJ, thanxamilyun for taking the time to make this informative post.

I sat out Christmas 2007, frustrated by lack of support from the commercial vendor of my four dimmer boards, and clunky expensive software that was anything but user-friendly.

In May 2008 I started planning for last year's show, knowing that I needed to make a change in hardware.  I had all but decided to buy kits from another commercial vendor when I stumbled on to DIYC, and from there discovered DLA. 

Last July, with input from both forums, I made the difficult decision to go with DMX and RJ's designs.  Then with the patience and support of so many dedicated members here, I was able to put together a limited - but at least in my mind awesome - display. 

I couldn't be happier that I chose the DLA route rather than commercial or other DIY.  I feel I'm on a path with a bright future led by a true visionary!  Thanks for everything.

John

[Blackbeard]

Hi Steve,

If you need dmx out while using the up and coming wireless module then what RJ was saying was you need to take the parts off of the ver2 pcb and put them on ver3 pcb.

If you don't need that and/or not using wireless than just build the ver2 board. There is no other difference (besides the 2 leds).

Rick R.

Rick,

Now I'm really confused. Which parts do I take off if they weren't on the Version 2.0 originally?

Maybe I'm not explaining myself very well. Here's my equipment:

1 Version 2 PCB
1 Version 3 PCB
2 Version 3 parts kit

I'm going to have parts left over when building the V2 board. If I understand it correctly, there isn't a place on the V2 board for the additional RS485 chip and the other components that will be left over. Did I misunderstand RJ when I thought he said I could make my V2 a V3?

Sorry to be so dense on this one. It's actually not a big deal as I will more than likely use the V2 wired instead of wireless, but if I could make the V2 like the V3, why shouldn't I?

Thanks for the help.

steve

[ElectricCraft1]

Blackbeard,

You need the Version 3 PCB.  If you had the parts kit from Ver. 2 and put those on a Ver. 3 board, then added $2 in parts you would have a Ver. 3 board.  Now, I could be wrong in what I read, but I do believe this is what has been said.  I hope this helps.

Branden

[RJ]

Blackbeard,

You need the Version 3 PCB.  If you had the parts kit from Ver. 2 and put those on a Ver. 3 board, then added $2 in parts you would have a Ver. 3 board.  Now, I could be wrong in what I read, but I do believe this is what has been said.  I hope this helps.

Branden

Yes, If you need the additions of the Ver 3 board and have not built your ver2 you can order a Ver 3 PCB and add the extra parts.

RJ

[knguyen916]

1 Version 2 PCB
1 Version 3 PCB
2 1 Version 3 parts kit

Based on your parts you can make 1 version 3 board. The strikethrough shows that your version 2 cannot be a version 3 board and 1 x version 3 parts will have 3-4 parts left over because the version 2 board doesn't have the additional improvements that the version 3 board has (i.e. the RJ-45 for splitter, RS485 chip, etc...)

Hi Steve,

If you need dmx out while using the up and coming wireless module then what RJ was saying was you need to take the parts off of the ver2 pcb and put them on ver3 pcb.

If you don't need that and/or not using wireless than just build the ver2 board. There is no other difference (besides the 2 leds).

Rick R.

Rick,

Now I'm really confused. Which parts do I take off if they weren't on the Version 2.0 originally?

Maybe I'm not explaining myself very well. Here's my equipment:

1 Version 2 PCB
1 Version 3 PCB
2 Version 3 parts kit

I'm going to have parts left over when building the V2 board. If I understand it correctly, there isn't a place on the V2 board for the additional RS485 chip and the other components that will be left over. Did I misunderstand RJ when I thought he said I could make my V2 a V3?

Sorry to be so dense on this one. It's actually not a big deal as I will more than likely use the V2 wired instead of wireless, but if I could make the V2 like the V3, why shouldn't I?

Thanks for the help.

steve

[rrowan]

WOW

What a confusing bunch of posts

Steve - Simple Fact - you can not convert a ver 2 board into a ver 3 board with the extra parts. There is nothing wrong with ver 2 board it will work just fine. It just lacks dmx 2 out and led power indicators (5v and 3.3v)

The extra parts and or different parts from ver3 and ver 2 are:
ver 3: (not including if you got extra/bonus parts from a coop)
1 - rs-485 chip
1 - 8 pin socket (for rs-485 chip)
1 - rj-45 connector
1 - 180 ohm resistor
1 - 330 ohm resistor
2 - green leds

Also the tall capacitor was changed from a 3300uf to a 4700uf

Rick R.

[memphislights]

couldn't you just complete the "circuit" for the DMX2 on some perf board and then jumper the appropirate lines to the ver 2 board?

[Blackbeard]

If you have a ver 2 PCB that you need this on and it is not built yet you can use your parts and change just the PCB out. All the parts are the same. Then add three parts for about $2 and you have a version 3 unit. If you do not need this you are missing nothing.
RJ

Sorry to have caused such a ruckus. The above quote was what I misunderstood. I'm OK with the Version 2 as it is, as I said, but just thought if I could "convert" the V2 to a V3, why not.

Thanks so much for all the input. I'll shut now.

steve

[rrowan]

If you have a ver 2 PCB that you need this on and it is not built yet you can use your parts and change just the PCB out. All the parts are the same. Then add three parts for about $2 and you have a version 3 unit. If you do not need this you are missing nothing.
RJ

Sorry to have caused such a ruckus. The above quote was what I misunderstood. I'm OK with the Version 2 as it is, as I said, but just thought if I could "convert" the V2 to a V3, why not.

Thanks so much for all the input. I'll shut now.

steve

Steve you didn't cause any ruckus. We just enjoy the challenge of who is going to post more about the same exact thing. Besides RJ's post was confusing to begin with. You just got to learn RJ speak.

Its a good thing to have people post since everyone (including me) has a different understanding and thoughts on how it all works. Of course the one true knower of all Lynx hardware is RJ.

All is good

Rick R.

[RJ]

A picture of the guts of the wireless TX Proto. Not a lot to it. Not hard to build. The surface mount parts are big .1 inch pin spacing so it is the same size as a regular chip and so soldering is not a challenge like smaller surface mount devices.

There are a few changes I am making to the pcb for ease of building. Mainly spacing one SMD device farther from the other to make soldering easier.

A coop for 25 would make them about $52-$56 to build including the wall wart to power them.

The Receivers will run about $20 a piece to build. 

RJ

[memphislights]

suggestion for a rev 1.0a board.

copywrite  --> copyright

just a suggestion though.

On a more serious note, would it make sense to do what you did for the LEs and maybe add a splitter/pass through DMX output?

[WWNF911]

Boy,.. that is sweet RJ!

Although I can't quite tell, looks like probably same size as the dongle?

Leon