DiyLightAnimation
Hardware => Lynx Express => Topic started by: joshuashu on November 04, 2010,
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OK i have an express that is acting funny. when i do the test on board everything is fine, shows dmx but only half the lights work. 1-8. when i do the slider test via LSP it does not control any of the lights. I am pretty sure that it does not matter that i went from channel 96- to 113? 65-80 and 97-112 are wireless. make sense?
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It sounds like you are only applying power to half of the board. Are both sides plugged in and is the fuse on the right side ok?
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well since i use LED's i did the power mod. so only have power on the left side.
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I would check and make sure that the power mod is making the connections on the right side.
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Yes this sounds like the issue.
RJ
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i will check this out in the AM. would this effect the dmx signal though?
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It shouldn't but lets get one problem fixed at a time. The second problem seems to be either an addressing issue with the unit, the unit in the wrong mode or a jumper in the wrong position.
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ok, i do not have power across the power jumper. i am only getting 4 volts on channel nine. 1-8 get 120. where do i need to test next?
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Ground?
errrrrr... neutral.
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OK, try this first.
Unplug the controller from AC.
Get a Ohm meter.
On the 2 Ac input connectors see if you read continuity between the 2 Line inputs and the 2 Neutral inputs.
If either one is open you left off one of the power jumper needed on the front center of the board. They need to be soldered to the board. The Neutral is visible but the Line jumper in under the RED heat sink.
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I don't know what method you used to make the conversion. Method 1 is RJ's where you connect the two sides with the jumper points in the center of the board. If you used this method then make sure that your solder connections are solid and don't forget that you have to make jumpers for both the hot and common traces. The hot jumper points are above the triacs and the common jumper points are on the bottom of the board below the output strip. When this method is used the fuse on the right is not needed and should be removed.
The other method is one that some of the members came up with to make it easy to convert the board back to dual input when needed and that one is to simply connect the two sides together with jumpers at the AC IN wire connections. If you use this method then once again, make sure that your connections are good and in this case, the right fuse is still needed so make sure that it is seated properly and is good.
The best place to measure is where you made your jump to the other side and make sure to test both the hot and common sides. Also check the traces on the bottom of the board for any damage near your jump points. These are large traces but are not immune to damage.
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OK, try this first.
Unplug the controller from AC.
Get a Ohm meter.
On the 2 Ac input connectors see if you read continuity between the 2 Line inputs and the 2 Neutral inputs.
If either one is open you left off one of the power jumper needed on the front center of the board. They need to be soldered to the board. The Neutral is visible but the Line jumper in under the RED heat sink.
ok i have continunity from hot to the first side of the jumper and from neutral side to bottom 2 jumpers but not the top. Make sense?
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i do not have continuity from hot side to middle leg of 9-16 of triacs but do on 1-8.
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ok i think i got it! found a bad jumper wire across the top. now on the dmx problem. will try a new cat cable and see what happens! :)