DiyLightAnimation
Hardware => Lynx Express => Topic started by: Jeffl on July 05, 2010,
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I'm getting ready to place and order for cords for my Lynx Express units. I'm debating between 2' and 3' lengths. The 2' cords are cheaper but the 3' might also be useful. Any reason not to order the 2' cords and save a few dollars? Or purchase the 3' cords and use the female for a channel cord and the male end for power inlet?
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022802&p_id=5297&seq=1&format=2
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It's all just what you want. Either works fine. The 2' will make the unit lighter and easier to store.
RJ
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As RJ said, a lot of this is personal preference. If you have a specific purpose for some of your LE's, you can even create fixed lengths right out of the LE to match the need. Those are very nice cords indeed, and a good price too. But for my needs (low draw LEDs), I just went for the $.79 6' extensions at Lowes. Most everything I have is a two wire plug, so the extra weight and heft of grounded outlet cords just didn't justify the higher cost for me. Technically these are "indoor" cords, but I have used them outside for many years with incandescent lights (higher current draw) in the hot FL sun with no problems...they get get stiff after a couple of years, but I have never had one crack, etc.
Mike E.
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Yea, I made my first with 6 foot cords and it is like trying to wrestle a 16 leg octopus! The cords want to get tangled easily. I plan to do most of the rest at about 2 foot.
Ron
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Thanks for the tips . I'm going to order the 2'. I like the 3 wire version. I'll wire the grounds like my LOR boxes. They do cost 20 cents more but I think the extra $5 makes them look really professional.
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Oh yeah, I guess I need to stay on topic....I bought 6' cords, but definitely cut them down. Two of my LE's have 3' tails, the other 4 have 2' tails.
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Thanks for the tips . I'm going to order the 2'. I like the 3 wire version. I'll wire the grounds like my LOR boxes. They do cost 20 cents more but I think the extra $5 makes them look really professional.
Hi Jeff
Just to let you, The lynx hardware does not have a grounding wire on the boards.
Cheers
Rick R.
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Hi Jeff
Just to let you, The lynx hardware does not have a grounding wire on the boards.
Cheers
Rick R.
Yep. I'll put rings on the green wires and tie them all together.
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Or just zip tie them to the cords
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bisquit476,
Compliments to your Cable managing!!
Caliente Christmas
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Thank you,
Bill
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Or just zip tie them to the cords
Not to point fingers, as that is a very well managed setup, but what is with the cat-5 cables and the wireless module? <pop..
Just want to guarantee that your getting a DMX signal?
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Or just zip tie them to the cords
Not to point fingers, as that is a very well managed setup, but what is with the cat-5 cables and the wireless module? <pop..
Just want to guarantee that your getting a DMX signal?
Guessing Bill is/was a club scout. He is prepare for anything ;D ;D
Cheers
Rick R.
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Greg, I actually started using them with my LOR stuff, and didn't want to leave myself unprepared for any problems, so for $10 total cost for the 2 connectors, I like the security of knowing even if the wireless goes snafu, I've got a quick plug in with cat5 and I'm back in business. Of course, if it's going to break, it'll break at the best time like Halloween Night, Xmas Day, New Years Eve, etc... you know, times that it doesn't matter if it works, those folks watching won't mind if it quits. ;D
Bill
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Greg, I actually started using them with my LOR stuff, and didn't want to leave myself unprepared for any problems, so for $10 total cost for the 2 connectors, I like the security of knowing even if the wireless goes snafu, I've got a quick plug in with cat5 and I'm back in business. Of course, if it's going to break, it'll break at the best time like Halloween Night, Xmas Day, New Years Eve, etc... you know, times that it doesn't matter if it works, those folks watching won't mind if it quits. ;D
Bill
HAHA...fair enough!!
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I bought these because I felt it was the best length for all around use.
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So do most LE users just buy the indoor cords and cut off the male end?? That seems to be the least expensive way to go especially if you don't need a grounded cord.
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So do most LE users just buy the indoor cords and cut off the male end?? That seems to be the least expensive way to go especially if you don't need a grounded cord.
Yup that is what I have been doing / using for the past two years. I have yet to see a strings of lights with a ground wire.
Cheers
Rick R.
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I have 0 ft cords for the outputs and 6ft tails for the input.
I do my boxes a little different! I am using a 12x12x6 PVC j-box. I mount 8 duplex recps on the box along with 2 GFCI's. The box has 2 6ft 14-3 power input tails. I have installed a over-sized cover as a drip edge to allow the rain and snow to run off. I have had very little trouble with GFCI trips using this method. The boxes are placed right on the ground. The snow will pile on it and tends to melt around the edges. I leave the power on to the boxes 24/7. With this years LE I plan on extending the DMX "LINK" LED out to the connection plate like I have done in the past on my LOR boxes. I use a standard 2 pin header like the terminate one in place of the LED. I then use a rescued header pig-tail from an old computer to plug into this and solder the leads to the LED. See pictures for more details. Most of these pictures were taken at the ICE Mini in Indianapolis a few weeks a go. Notice the cool Lynx apparel!!
KEN
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I have 0 ft cords for the outputs and 6ft tails for the input.
I do my boxes a little different! I am using a 12x12x6 PVC j-box. I mount 8 duplex recps on the box along with 2 GFCI's. The box has 2 6ft 14-3 power input tails. I have installed a over-sized cover as a drip edge to allow the rain and snow to run off. I have had very little trouble with GFCI trips using this method. The boxes are placed right on the ground. The snow will pile on it and tends to melt around the edges. I leave the power on to the boxes 24/7. With this years LE I plan on extending the DMX "LINK" LED out to the connection plate like I have done in the past on my LOR boxes. I use a standard 2 pin header like the terminate one in place of the LED. I then use a rescued header pig-tail from an old computer to plug into this and solder the leads to the LED. See pictures for more details. Most of these pictures were taken at the ICE Mini in Indianapolis a few weeks a go. Notice the cool Lynx apparel!!
KEN
A few more pictures
KEN
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I like your idea of using seperate GFCI's for each channel of each box. It gives the protection as well as making it easier to find a problem when one keeps tripping. They also make ones that mount in outlet locations but do not have the outlets on them, just the set and test buttons. I am using one of that type on my deck light system. They are the same price as the outlet ones and if you are not using the outlet portion then you may want to consider using the non outlet type as they have much less chance of tripping due to water getting in them.
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I purchased the 2' 16/3 extension cords from mono price. I''l post a picture in a couple weeks when I get one done. They are more work but will look professional and have a, for the most part, un-necessary ground.
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I like your idea of using seperate GFCI's for each channel of each box. It gives the protection as well as making it easier to find a problem when one keeps tripping. They also make ones that mount in outlet locations but do not have the outlets on them, just the set and test buttons. I am using one of that type on my deck light system. They are the same price as the outlet ones and if you are not using the outlet portion then you may want to consider using the non outlet type as they have much less chance of tripping due to water getting in them.
I looked at those but could not get enough when I was ready to build! As it works out the extra outlets come in handy to power constant power needs like blow up fans, LED power supplies, LCD sign ect. I also "loop" the input feed on some of my boxes to use a single power feed like for my Arches.
KEN
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Ken (tpctech), very nice box build. My compliments <res.
Bill
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my only complaint about the cool tcptech box is the price of the pvc box. Seems more expensive than everything in the box.
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I have the 2' cords for my controllers.
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So we've determined what people are doing for the output cords but what about the 2 power inputs? I am leaning toward making up my own with bulk wire and a male plug. To buy a large gauge extension cord is several dollars and it seems more cost effective to go the other route.
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I'm using the same 2' cords using the other end. They are 13 amp rated I think. I doubt I will ever push near that much. The rest of the male ends will be used for rope light power cords or what ever else I need them for.
If you think about it you can use the female end for controllers and the male end for other projects. What a bargain and a good way to recycle.
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Same here....just used a male waste end. I really think it depends on how your LE is being used. Most everything I have is LED, so there really no concerns with drawing a lot of amps and having my power cords melt (like I used to have with incandescent's). I just went with the cheap 79 cent cords from Lowes. Co-op LE's, blue ridge cases & cheap cords got me down to around $5.10 per channel. Now I can buy a lot more lights ;D
Here's a pic of what they look like.
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Thanks for the picture. What are you and others doing as far as "strain relief" to keep the cords from pulling on the PCB? It looks like you are using those romex clamps designed for where 12/2 or 14/2 wire goes into a box. Am I correct?
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This what I did,
I know a tech who has allot of cables so i asked if i could have them.
The outlet were 10 for 3.49. each outlet i had to break the bridge to make the plug a single unit. bought them at lowes
The boxes were purchased from Habit for Humanity. at 1.90 per box need two per unit.
The only thing i need is the covers which i think i can picked them up at the swap meet.
So far i spend per channel .412 cents per connection.
Having someone who has power cables helped out.
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Thanks for the picture. What are you and others doing as far as "strain relief" to keep the cords from pulling on the PCB? It looks like you are using those romex clamps designed for where 12/2 or 14/2 wire goes into a box. Am I correct?
I just tie wrap the cables to each other where they overlap inside the box before they connect to the terminal blocks. Actually, that's how I carry them out to the yard and back in when the show is done. Never had any problems with the heat in Florida either...for those that may be wondering about tie wrapping multiple current carrying conductors together.
I guess I should clarify that I am using zip cord for all my channels.
Seems to work just fine.
-Paul
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I just bend the wire a bit as I insert it into the terminal block and it creates a little hump of slack before exiting the case. Then a larger size tire wrap around each bundle of four wires just inside the case. The larger head on the tie wrap keeps it from pulling through the weather seal/hole. I also put a tie wrap around each bundle just as it exits the case to keep individual wires from pulling sideways and wearing out the foam seal. For the power cords, I just tie the cord in a knot inside the case.
Only time will tell how well it holds up.
Mike E.
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Here is my first LE using the 2' cords, and cords for the next 6LE's and two LOR units.
For the grounding post I used a #10 screw and ring terminals from this seller on eBay. I know they're not necessary but they look good and it's grounded.
http://myworld.ebay.com/terminalcitizen/
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Here is my first LE using the 2' cords, and cords for the next 6LE's and two LOR units.
Jeff:
Where did you get the cords?
\dmc
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Here you go. They also have other lengths if you want longer cords. I just found that shorter cords make them easier to deal with.
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022802&p_id=5297&seq=1&format=2
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Here is the left overs form my first cord expedition. The first is all the left over male ends and some extensions from a previous LOR build. I plan to use these male ends for rope light ends and for other projects where I would normally use vampire plugs. I figure it's like saving 50 cents instead of throwing them away. It also makes the power cords seam cheaper.
The second photo is what I used for power cords. I pieced a male end and a piece from a left over LOR build, added some heat shrink and I have power cords. This was mostly just a recycling effort.
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Thanks for the ideas. I decided to use the little square "mounting bases" for cable ties. These are peel and stick. I put one just inside each hole that I was going to use. I put 4 output cables/hole and used a cable tie to wrap around the wires and through the mounting base. Once I snugged it up good I think it will do a good job of keeping the strain off the connectors on the circuit board.
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Any chance you could upload a picture?
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I would be glad to upload a picture but it will be a couple of days before I am back home and able to get it done. I will try to do on Thursday or Friday.
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I plan to use these male ends for rope light ends and for other projects where I would normally use vampire plugs. I figure it's like saving 50 cents instead of throwing them away. It also makes the power cords seam cheaper.
Damn good idea, didn't think of it before, thank you,
Bill
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I hope to get some pictures of the rope light on a 3D star Dad and I built with the ends. My assortment of heat shrink just arrived so I can get busy or more busy.
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Here are 2 pictures per request from my earlier post regarding using mounting bases and cable ties for strain relief.