DiyLightAnimation
Fun => The Porch => Topic started by: rimist on January 04, 2012,
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Does any one use lead free solder?
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For plumbing, yes. Circuit boards? no way.
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For electronics, I use both leaded and unleaded, depends on the project.
:) joe
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Any tips or tricks to using lead free solder?
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Any tips or tricks to using lead free solder?
I’m sure this post will draw alternate opinions; my “secrets†for lead-free soldering are:
-Use not only a separate solder tip, but also a separate iron that’ll run higher temperatures.
-Use flux specifically for lead-free solders.
-Make sure the component leads are clean prior to fluxing.
-Make double sure the PCB pads/holes are very clean prior to fluxing.
-Solder hot (700f) and solder very quick.
-Preheat the PCB.
-Never re-solder a joint. De-solder, clean thoroughly then solder.
-When repairing boards, never apply leaded solder to a previously lead-free PCB. Never apply lead-free solder to a leaded solder joint.
-Remember that lead-free solder joints are dull and grainy compared to leaded joints that must be shiny and smooth!!!
-And finally, stay away from lead-free unless you positively, absolutely, undoubtedly must use lead-free! Wanna save the planet? Quit using plastic water bottles!
:) joe
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i'm saving the planet, by placing the lead in my solder : )
i use leaded solder, it just works really well for me.
maybe, i'm just grumpy and set in my ways
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I like lead in my solder. Smooth soldering that way. Never did like the way lead free flows.
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Coming from a plumber, lead solder flows better than lead-free.
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My first year or two I used lead free solder. If you are going to go this route you NEED liquid flux. When I found out how wonderful 63/37 was I couldn't stop beating my head against a brick wall <fp.
There is no comparison. Lead free has to be soldered in with a hotter iron and it is a pain to desolder. 63/37 is ooooooh soooooo much easier to solder with. You don't have to run your soldering iron as hot and it is soooooooo much easier to desolder!
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<la.. I'll drink to that.
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My first year or two I used lead free solder. If you are going to go this route you NEED liquid flux. When I found out how wonderful 63/37 was I couldn't stop beating my head against a brick wall <fp.
There is no comparison. Lead free has to be soldered in with a hotter iron and it is a pain to desolder. 63/37 is ooooooh soooooo much easier to solder with. You don't have to run your soldering iron as hot and it is soooooooo much easier to desolder!
what about a flux capacitor?
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Bang on the box with a rubber mallet each year before the first power up to break off the tin whiskers... Not hard mind you, but a few mild whacks.
Most lead-free formulations are prone to tin whisker growth. In a low vibration environment, these can cause low resistance paths between components that are pretty close to each other... Like adjacent pads on a chip...
RM
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Having been to many symposiums and presentations at trade shows about implementing lead free process for ROHS certification I have come to one conclusion, only use lead free if someone has a gun to your head. There is a reason that there is an exception in the ROHS rules for aerospace and medical, if a life depends on the product not failing do not use lead free solder. I am afraid my days of manufacturing in the lead world.
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There is a reason that there is an exception in the ROHS rules for aerospace and medical, if a life depends on the product not failing do not use lead free solder.
Prevention of Electricution could be a reason to use lead solder....
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Well then... Returning the lead free I accidentally ordered, and placed as order for leaded.
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what about a flux capacitor?
Only ven jew have the iron set to 88 miles par hour!