DiyLightAnimation
Hardware => Lynx EtherDongle => Topic started by: Segull on August 01, 2013,
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Hi everyone,
I finally finished my etherdongle and axiously went to program the PIC, but instead got the message
"No device detected". I have searched over and over for answers here but have to ask for help :-[
I have looked for cold solder joints, bridges, any suggestions where to look greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance for your help :)
Joe
attached is a pix of my soldering.
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Have you programmed any pic chips in the past? Want to confirm before pointing the finger at the build.
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Yes, 4 LE, Dongle, Clock. I have both Pickit 2 & 3. I tried the Pickit3 on one of my LE's & read the Pic just fine. When I check voltage LED comes on. I have read some of your posts also & tried ones that looked like possible solution.
Thanks
Joe
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We need a bit more information than this. What are you using to program the pic? I would hope that it is the Picket3 but what software are you using? Did you put the header connector on the right way. Did you select the correct pic family? The pickit3 can't detect what family of pic is connected to it s if it is st for the wrong one, it will not detect the device. Also make sure that the software is set to tell the pickit to supply power to the Pic or once again, it will not detect it unless you have the board powered up with its supply. I would suggest not powering up the board until the Pic is successfully programmed. Also, make sure to use the standalone pic programming software and not MPLAB. MPLAB is a complicated piece software that can trash the Pic if you tell it to and that's easier to do than you might think.
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tobone, I am using the pickit3, added the .dat file to select the PIC32MX795F512L, installed on XP & Win 7, with same results, only used MPLAB to program the PICKit3.
I have only tried what I have found on the post here on DLA.
Here is the app I am using.
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For me I would be reheating the solder joints on the ICSP pins. Unfortunately, I had the same experience on my etherdongle after I bent the pins 90 deg to make it conductor ready. I suspect I cracked a solder joint and that was all it took. Once I reheated all six pins I was able to program the etd to put the conductor firmware on the chip. This error is just like the one I had.
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Try checking the "on" box under VDD PicKit 3 . I know I have had a couple PICs that weren't detected till I checked that box.
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Jim, just tried it, still no go :(
Joe
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Caretaker, check box. When i go to Write the status light on pickit3 just blinks. And still shows "No device detected".
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Do you have power applied to the dongle?
If not connect the power supply. Sometimes the PIC kit does not quite give enough power to the PIC.
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MrChristmas, just tried that, same result.
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Look at the top side of the board and make sure your solder has flowed through to the top as there are circuit traces on the top side of the board also.
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Yes keitha, i looked those over. I'll post picture maybe i have missed something.
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Segul,
First step is to eliminate the soldering on the board. If you look closely at the traces you'll notice small pads that are test points. If you start at a pin and follow the trace to a test point you will be able to do a continuity check with your meter. If you leads are too large to fit on the test points, you can tape a needle or pin to one of them to allow you fit on the pad. If you can confirm that all the soldering at the ICSP connector is good then you can check the continuity all the way back to the chip. (you'll need to find the spec sheet on the web to see which pin to connect to) According to the sparkfun page I was looking at, the ICSP connector header signals are Vpp, Vdd, GND, RB7 and RB6. The last appears to have no signal.
https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/75 (https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/75)
While that particular tutorial doesn't apply to the PIC32MX795F512L, I'm sure that if you look at the spec sheet you will find (most of) those signals present on pins.
Once you eliminate the board, you are left with the programming device or the chip itself. I'd check the programmer on another board that you know is good. Once you've eliminated that, its time to learn about "reworking".
Here's hoping you find a bad solder joint.
Jamie
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The board looks ok from what I can see. Make sure that you are connecting the ICSP connection correctly on both the Picket and the header. It can get real easy to have one of them flipped over.
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Is there anybody you know on this board?
If not you might ask RJ about sending it to either him or someone that he recommends where it could be checked out for errors or component failure.
Sometimes after you look at something for a long time you may just be overlooking something that someone else might be able to locate.
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Well I tried to post this earlier but I guess my phone was hungry and ate it... Get a good flashlight and shine it from the underneath side on the pic32 on the side nearest the 8.0 MHz chip and look for bridges on those legs. If you can manage to take a few pictures of it please post. It may need the solder reflowed on those legs. Don't start picking at it with an exacto though if you see something as some of the legs are supposed to have a trace connecting them, but its been a long time since I put my originals together so I don't remember exactly where they are now without looking.
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I glad this got posted. I have flashed many expresses, wireless, dongles, etc. And have never had any problems. Now I cant get the bobcat dmx testee, my pixlenet hub, or either of the etherdongeles I have built to program.
I am very interested in the outcome of this thread.
Mike
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2
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Can you go back to a known working device that you flashed and see if you can still flash it? I'm wondering if something common like a Windows Update is causing problems? I can't imagine if you've built all those devices and never had a problem that now all of a sudden your mad skills at putting together these devices has gone to hades in a hand basket.
I glad this got posted. I have flashed many expresses, wireless, dongles, etc. And have never had any problems. Now I cant get the bobcat dmx testee, my pixlenet hub, or either of the etherdongeles I have built to program.
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I glad this got posted. I have flashed many expresses, wireless, dongles, etc. And have never had any problems. Now I cant get the bobcat dmx testee, my pixlenet hub, or either of the etherdongeles I have built to program.
I am very interested in the outcome of this thread.
Mike
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2
Make sure to check the box for power. Make sure you are using the v1 standalone utility (not beta). Try different usb port. Try the pushbutton on the programmer. The etherdongles won't display a checksum after flashing.
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Hi guys,
Segull, did you get your EtherDongle from the latest coop? I did. I also attempted to program the PIC, but unlike you I'm a total noob at this so I chalked it up to user error. Can anyone tell me for sure whether or not the PIC absolutely *needs* to be programmed before it will work?
I'm also trying to get mine to work. I have it hooked up to a 10baseT switch with normal Cat5 cables, no joy yet. I'm trying to use it with Vixen3. Good info on this thread, I didn't know the solder had to flow all the way to the front surface of the board. Need to check that out.
I don't see a lot of info on PC & software configuration for EtherDongle. Should you be able to just plug in a switch, connect the EtherDongle to the switch and have it just work? That's what I've done and so far the ED is not even seeing packets. If someone knows how to configure the network for EtherDongle (or there's a post somewhere that I didn't find), would appreciate a pointer.
Gary
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Hi guys,
Segull, did you get your EtherDongle from the latest coop? I did. I also attempted to program the PIC, but unlike you I'm a total noob at this so I chalked it up to user error. Can anyone tell me for sure whether or not the PIC absolutely *needs* to be programmed before it will work?
Yes, the pic needs to be programmed before the ETD will work. There is a green led inside the ETD that will only light up when the ETD is properly flashed.
I'm also trying to get mine to work. I have it hooked up to a 10baseT switch with normal Cat5 cables, no joy yet. I'm trying to use it with Vixen3. Good info on this thread, I didn't know the solder had to flow all the way to the front surface of the board. Need to check that out.
Normally nothing needs to be be configured on your network. Except if your router doesn't support multi-cast or has been turned off. Make sure the silver RJ-45 connector is being connected to your network.
I don't see a lot of info on PC & software configuration for EtherDongle. Should you be able to just plug in a switch, connect the EtherDongle to the switch and have it just work? That's what I've done and so far the ED is not even seeing packets. If someone knows how to configure the network for EtherDongle (or there's a post somewhere that I didn't find), would appreciate a pointer.
Like above you need to find out if your router supports multi-cast and is enabled.
There are many examples how to configure the sequencing software for etherdongle use.
one example = http://diylightanimation.com/index.php?topic=6651.msg99581#msg99581
For a quick test you can try some test software in the wiki that has little configuration to setup.
http://www.diylightanimation.com/wiki/index.php?title=Software#Lynx_Software
Hope that helps or points you in the right direction.
Rick R.
Gary
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Thanks for the tips Rick. I'm afraid I'm getting nowhere programming the PIC. I've never done this before. I bought the PICKit 3, downloaded the software for it (just the stand alone programmer app, I've tried both version 1 from the DLA wiki and version 3.1 from the Microchip website. I was able to get version 3.1 to connect to the PICKit 3 (see attached), but version 1 wouldn't even get that far.
I downloaded the pixelnet hex file and tried to do a "File -> Import Hex" in the app, but I think that's premature. Notice it says "no device found". So, looks like I'm in the same situation as Segull. Frankly I'm surprised there isn't at least a short tutorial on how to do this. It doesn't look straightforward or self explanatory at all. I looked at the PICKit 3 User's Guide from Microchip, but it talks mostly about debugging, not much there on how to simply program a device. Is the app supposed to recognize the device right away?
I tried "Device Family -> PIC32", and then got what you see in the second attachment, "No device detected. Ensure proper capacitance on VDDCORE/VCAP pin."
The app will not quit gracefully, when I try to exit it throws an exception and refuses to quit. I have to kill it by force. (Ctrl-Alt-Delete, End Task).
Adventures in DIY eh? :-) Oh well, this is why I got started in March for next Christmas :-)
BTW in case it matters I'm running Win7 Home Premium, Version 6.1.7601 Service Pack 1 Build 7601, x64 version
Processor AMD A8-3500M APU with Radeon(tm) HD Graphics, 1500 Mhz, 4 Core(s), 4 Logical Processor(s)
I'm pretty sure I've got good solder joints, though a few of them did 'frost' a bit. Does that mean a cold solder joint? Those that did this, I tried heating longer, reheating, etc but the result was the same. I've successfully soldered a DIY drone board set before, so I don't think I've done anything fatal. That device worked just fine and it was a lot smaller and harder to solder. I did make sure I got solder on the pads on the top side of the board.
The last three attachments are of the board and setup.
Thanks in advance, you guys are great. I'm really excited and I know this is going to be awesome when I get it working. I have my smart strings already and the SSCs are on the way. Right now I'm just hoping to get basic blinky flashy with the LE I built.
Gary
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BTW, as you can see in the picture, the green LED is lit on the EtherDongle. Does this mean it doesn't need to be programmed as Rick indicated?
I've seen conflicting info on whether the PIC needs to be programmed right away. I saw on another post that they were programmed as part of the coop before shipment. Which is true? I looked back at all the communication from the coop, but saw no mention of programming the PIC either way.
Gary
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These pics are NOT programmed before shipment as there is currently no way to do that. I remember reading somewhere that in the future, some of the chips for one of the devices will cme preprogrammed from MicroChip itself but I don't believe that is happening yet. Even if the PIC were programmed, the Picket3 would still be able to see it so the problem here still needs to be determine and corrected. The Picket3 does NOT auto-detect what it is connected to. It needs to be told what family it is working with and frm there it will determine which PIC in that family it is working with. If you pick the wrong family, in most cases it will NOT be able to identify the chip and will report "No Device Found".
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what happens if you connect the pic direct to the board vs using the ribbon cable in-between? make any difference?
Thanks for the tips Rick. I'm afraid I'm getting nowhere programming the PIC. I've never done this before. I bought the PICKit 3, downloaded the software for it (just the stand alone programmer app, I've tried both version 1 from the DLA wiki and version 3.1 from the Microchip website. I was able to get version 3.1 to connect to the PICKit 3 (see attached), but version 1 wouldn't even get that far.
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> what happens if you connect the pic direct to the board vs using the ribbon cable in-between? make any difference?
Same result. Thanks for the idea though. It's a brand new PICKit 3, BTW.
Gary
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> what happens if you connect the pic direct to the board vs using the ribbon cable in-between? make any difference?
Same result. Thanks for the idea though. It's a brand new PICKit 3, BTW.
Gary
Have you done the firmware/OS update of the pickit3?
in the pickit programmer software v1.0 under the tools menu "Download Operating System"
If that doesn't work then try to do it with the mplab program.
Rick R.
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BTW, as you can see in the picture, the green LED is lit on the EtherDongle. Does this mean it doesn't need to be programmed as Rick indicated?
I've seen conflicting info on whether the PIC needs to be programmed right away. I saw on another post that they were programmed as part of the coop before shipment. Which is true? I looked back at all the communication from the coop, but saw no mention of programming the PIC either way.
Gary
The led is only on because of the pickit3 being attached. The info of the led not working without the pic being program comes from RJ. Since its his board and firmware I think the info is correct. :)
Rick R.
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Your screen shot of the pickit 3 programmer does not look like mine. I have never selected anything from the menus except for file, import hex. Here is a screen shot of mine connected to my conductor. Where it says device I have to click the drop down list and select PIC32MX795F512L. Fortunately it is the last on in the list so it is easy to find. Any way it makes me wonder if you have set something it your programmer by using the menus and that something is wrong, but don't ask me anything more. I have now shown you the only thing I know.
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It does look like he is using a different version of the software. What I would suggest to Segull is that he plug in the picket3 and bring up MPLAB. MPLAB comes on the CD included with the Picket. MPLAB will detect the Picket3 and load the initial firmware that the picket3 requires to run. From looking at the screen shot, it appears that the Picket does not have the correct firmware loaded to make it a programmer and I don't believe that the standalone programmer software has the ability to do that. MPLAB will probably attempt to connect to Microchip to get the firmware so make sure that the computer that the Picket3 is connected to is on-line. Once MPLAB sets up the device, you can close it and the programmer software should work properly.
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I just remember that a DLA member created a step-by step directions in the wiki.
http://www.diylightanimation.com/wiki/index.php?title=PIC_Programming_with_the_PICkit_3
Not sure if it will help or not but its worth a try.
Rick R.
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Two other things I was thinking about...one was just silly, the other is kind of serious to help...
1 - is anyone willing to do a remote control to his PC to see if they can do some live troubleshooting? maybe walk through a few steps? I know in the past people are willing to ship out a device to another, or do a local meet up. Where i was going with this, is try another PC that is known to work. i've never seen a bad usb cable before, but maybe it's something as simple as that?
2 - reboot your mouse. 99% of the time rebooting the mouse or upgrading the mouse have resolved most technical problems when i've had to help my parents with any computer problems.
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Hi guys,
Quite an adventure, but I'm making progress!
BTW there is a note on the Wiki that says "NOTE2: Only use the Pickit 3 utility and not MPLAB to program the firmware." The instructions that Rick pointed to are explicit in the use of MPLAB. Can someone please fix the wiki? Or am I allow to? Probably admins only. While we're at it, there should be a prominent link to the directions Rick pointed out in the "PIC Programming" section of the wiki. Can someone fix that also?
Turns out the PICKit 3 has two modes, MPLAB mode and the other mode used with the stand alone programmer app (forget what they call that mode). Anyway, mine was in "that other mode" and I was trying to use it with MPLAB. So, in MPLAB, I was getting the following error:
PK3Err0033: 4 bytes expected, 0 bytes received
That's because it was in the wrong mode. The solution is to quit MPLAB, start the standalone PICKit 3 programmer, and go to "Tools -> Revert to MPLAB mode". Quit the programmer and restart MPLAB and continue with the procedure in the instructions in the wiki. Import the firmware (checksum didn't match what's on the wiki BTW, mine was 0xf8cd8ee4), select the device (this seems to persist once you've set it), select the PICKit 3 and voila! Finally getting somewhere (see first attachment).
I am using the power supply for the EtherDongle. You can either do that or use the PICKit 3 to power the ED. OK, that abbreviation makes me uncomfortable :-) let's spell it out - EtherDongle :-) (comic relief)
Bingo! (see second attachment) Now on to the next step, trying to get the PC and Vixen3 to talk to the EtherDongle...
Gary
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you should never need to add power to the device being programmed.
all power comes through the PicKit3 programmer via its USB connection to the computer.
no cables should be attached to your EtD, your SSC, your DSC, etc. -- only the PicKit3.
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you should never need to add power to the device being programmed.
all power comes through the PicKit3 programmer via its USB connection to the computer.
no cables should be attached to your EtD, your SSC, your DSC, etc. -- only the PicKit3.
This is not completely correct. While in most cases you don't need to add power, never is a bit strong of a word. It should be that you don't have to supply power as long as the Pickit is set to do it for you but I have seen some boards that would not program unless the board was powered as well. Perhaps something was drawing more current than the Pickit could provide on its own. I agree that no other cables should be attached to the device being programmed with the possible exception of its power supply and even then, only if needed.
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Hi guys,
Quite an adventure, but I'm making progress!
BTW there is a note on the Wiki that says "NOTE2: Only use the Pickit 3 utility and not MPLAB to program the firmware." The instructions that Rick pointed to are explicit in the use of MPLAB. Can someone please fix the wiki? Or am I allow to? Probably admins only. While we're at it, there should be a prominent link to the directions Rick pointed out in the "PIC Programming" section of the wiki. Can someone fix that also?
Turns out the PICKit 3 has two modes, MPLAB mode and the other mode used with the stand alone programmer app (forget what they call that mode). Anyway, mine was in "that other mode" and I was trying to use it with MPLAB. So, in MPLAB, I was getting the following error:
PK3Err0033: 4 bytes expected, 0 bytes received
That's because it was in the wrong mode. The solution is to quit MPLAB, start the standalone PICKit 3 programmer, and go to "Tools -> Revert to MPLAB mode". Quit the programmer and restart MPLAB and continue with the procedure in the instructions in the wiki. Import the firmware (checksum didn't match what's on the wiki BTW, mine was 0xf8cd8ee4), select the device (this seems to persist once you've set it), select the PICKit 3 and voila! Finally getting somewhere (see first attachment).
I am using the power supply for the EtherDongle. You can either do that or use the PICKit 3 to power the ED. OK, that abbreviation makes me uncomfortable :-) let's spell it out - EtherDongle :-) (comic relief)
Bingo! (see second attachment) Now on to the next step, trying to get the PC and Vixen3 to talk to the EtherDongle...
Gary
The note is correct and for the most part, MPLAB should not be used for this purpose. As said before, even though MPLAB is more than capable of programming our PICS, it is also more than capable of destroying those PICS as well. If you screw up a PIC on an Express or SSC, as much as that sucks all you really need to do is replace the PIC and many who have been in this hobby for a while, already own a few extra PICS. If you destroy the PIC on the EDT, you can say goodbye to your $100 and toss the board into the trash.
You did bring up a good point. Perhaps the OP can go into the tools menu of the programmer software and download the correct operating system. That should set the Picket3 to work properly with the stand alone programming software.
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On the power issue, all I can say is that I read in multiple places (including the PICKit 3 documentation) that you can power the PIC either through a separate power supply, or through the PICKit 3 itself. For the latter, you have to go in via software and enable the PICKit 3 to power the PIC.
On the other part about using MATLAB, I see your point. Never good to brick a board :-) (turn it into a brick) If this is the case, maybe someone should revise the Wiki instructions. I'd be happy to myself, but at my level of noobosity it might not be best :-)
Anyway, I'm continuing my adventure on the Vixen -> Vixen 3.0 thread. I may end up falling back to Vixen 2.0, but I'm going to give 3.0 my best shot first.
Gary
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Just my 2 cents as a user of Vixen and nothing to do with my status on DLA or the official opinion of DLA on Vixen.
I have been a happy user of Vixen 2.1.x since 2007/2008. I had High hopes for Vixen 3.0 but its going in a totally different direction than ver 2 series. Some of that is good but there are some things I don't like. Like KC (original programmer/owner of Vixen) is no longer on the team. The team has mostly made it a Renard controller software (take a look at the status of the modules the only one that is confirmed is Renard). I don't see me using v3 at all down the road and will have to look at different options. I only know of Vixen + (a branch of Vixen) and been following from a far HLS. I have private issues with LSP and I have never been a LOR user. So currently I am staying the course of Vixen 2.1 and xLights/Nutcracker and of course the show runs off of the Lynx Conductor. Sorry for the rambling ……..
Rick R.
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Hey Rick. Very interesting rambles, thanks for sharing. I'm still just trying to get something basic working. I'll probably get into the details of the various software options later. One of the things that looked appealing about Vixen3 is the built-in effects for RGB. The preview seems much improved also. Does Vixen2 with xLights/Nutcracker give you the same functionality? If so maybe I should give it a whirl.
Gary
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Vixen 2.anything doesn't have the RGB features that 3.0 has. This was the purpose of creating 3.0. That and the huge channelount that goes with it. If you are using the ETD or the Conductor, then you should be able to use E1.31 which I believe that it currently or soon will support. As Rick has mentioned, Ver 2.x and Ver 3 are very different creatures so learning on one will not be helpful if you decide to transition to the other.
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I do all my testing using xlights. Once I configure the software I can test anything including DMX since I have an active hub that puts DMX out the 1st 512 channels. I just completed going thru 14 LEs and upgrading the firmware, plugging ln lights and running them using xlights. Most of the xlights test are oriented to RGB, but you can use the first test mode (standard). When I am testing I have everything set to use channel 1 as the start channel so once I know my setup works for one then it should work for everything.
I did go to Vixen 2 and try to use the test channels function, but I have something messed up in my setup. VBG, but xlights worked like a champ.
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Hey Rick. Very interesting rambles, thanks for sharing. I'm still just trying to get something basic working. I'll probably get into the details of the various software options later. One of the things that looked appealing about Vixen3 is the built-in effects for RGB. The preview seems much improved also. Does Vixen2 with xLights/Nutcracker give you the same functionality? If so maybe I should give it a whirl.
Gary
I agree with Jim, for hardware testing and or trying different effects. xLights is a great option that is well supported here along with the awesome videos that Sean has done and he weekly online classes for it (thursday nights).
That still allows you to try different software for sequencing. Please don't let a old timer (me) sway you not into trying Vixen 3.0, I am just set in my way with Vixen 2.1 I think Vixen 3.0 RGB effects are nutcracker effects.
Not to plug my own silly program but Colorfinder (in the wiki software page) is really easy to setup and just has sliders to play with. Not much of a learning curve there (setup : USB dongle(DMX or Pixelnet) or Etherdongle. How may total channels do you want to send out with the Etherdongle - colorfinder does require .net ver 4.0 since it was written in visual basic 2010.
Rick R.
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tbone, I looked over what you had stated and here is what i have,
I uninstalled the Pickit 3 version I had and Installed the Pickit3 programmer in the Wiki.
Now I get "operation failed' when i go to write to the EtherDongle, so looking over, again, my soldering.
Anything that you all can suggest that I look for specifically?
Thank you all for the posting you have done, really helps, and its fun to explore :D
here is a picture of what I got on the Pickit3 programmer. I think it's progress ;D
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The fact that the pickit3 now sees the chip is progress for sure. There may be an issue where you are storing the hex file and I would also make sure that you have the correct one. What does it do when you tell the Pickit to read the chip? Also, how long does it take after to tell it to write to fail?
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Downloaded the hex file 2nd time to make sure it was not corrupted. I wish to use the DMX.
Should I try one of the others?
Takes about 3 Seconds when I try write after the Read. And Read gets same "operation failed"
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What happens when you try to erase the chip? Also try it with the board power supply plugged in.
Sent from my Thunderbolt using Tapatalk 2.
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Tried with power supply, tried Erase same message "operation failed".
sorry :(
Joe
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Tried with power supply, tried Erase same message "operation failed".
sorry :(
Joe
several people have had problems with the USB cable that comes with the PicKit. Try swapping.
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Funny you mention that, just tried it a minute ago :( no results.
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Do y6u have any other devices like an Express or a SSC that you can program? If it works with one of those, then we know that the Pickit is working. If it can't program those either, then the issue is with the Pickit or the PC it is connected to. It is much easier to debug when you have an idea where the problem may be.
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I know people are saying MATlab is somehow dangerous, but the procedure using MATlab that Rick posted worked for me. I couldn't get the standalone app to work at all. Segull has gotten farther with it than I did though. YMMV.
Gary
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tbone, using my LE I successfully read the pic24.
Then when I tried the EtherDongle again I got "operation failed".
ghethco, I saw what you posted started, got a bit nervous, but may have to try cautiously anyway.
Thank you both.
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Once in a while some people have to use mplab and start to go through the motions until it detects it needs to download something. After it downloads the standalone program usually works.
Sent from my Thunderbolt using Tapatalk 2.
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I tried the mplab and here is what I got:
I started it then got the Pk..45 then I plugged in the power supply and it showed
the target detected but then the error PK..35
its teasing me ???
Thanks everyone, please post any other suggestions. I will keep trying, for now I gotta get some other things done. Thank all :)
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I've been watching this conversation for a while. I think that there is something wrong with the flow soldering of the pic. It could be a high resistance connection that is causing incorrect signal voltages to be presented back to the pic programmer or from the programmer to the pic. It could even be missing a ground and that would cause all kinds of strange data to make the programmer fail.
The pic may have to either be reflowed or someone with very good soldering equipment and surface mount soldering skill to redo each of the connections to the pic.
JMHO
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What about "tools" "download operating system" mentioned earlier in the thread. It is starting too look like a possible hardware problem. Maybe reheat all solder points. Then use toothbrush to remove solder splatter you may not have seen. Possibly look under high magnification at the pic chip. Warning there is a trace I think was on the bottom side of the pic toward the right side that looks like it is a short but it is a topside trace.
Sent from my Thunderbolt using Tapatalk 2.
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I would stay away from the path of the solder job until there was no other options. His pic would have been installed by the assembly house and the failure rate would be pretty darn low. I have not seen one done by them back that was a solder issue as of this time. All of the issues were of the ones I installed or the people that did the first batch by hand.
Since there has been progress made keep looking at the other issues. once you start messing with the soldering job there is no going with these other possibles first.
RJ
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There is one other way if you have an ohm meter.
It is tedious and time consuming work but you could check continuity between the pic leads and associated traces. I would suggest using an ohm meter with clip leads and a straight pin to check the connections.
Just take your time and don't hurry the checking process.
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These error codes are pointing to voltage issues on the PIC. The first error code "0045" is indicating that the PIC is not powered up. The second error code is a read write error where in this case, the Pickit can see the PIC but is unable to get it to send its device ID. This can also be caused by an incorrect voltage. I would check the voltage regulators on the ETD and make sure that they are properly placed and soldered properly. They are built to sink heat and do require a little more heat than a resistor to solder in. Speaking of resistors, check them as well, especially the ones around the regulators and make sure that they are the correct values and soldered properly. Since MPLAB gave the same results as the programming utility, it shows that the programming utility was working properly.
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checked voltage regulators and touched up solder. Checked all resistors, all match. Touched up all solder points :o
trying to check traces as MrChristmas suggested.
Thank you again.... the mystery continues :'(
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You don't want to buy a lottery ticket right now because I think your luck is not at a very high level right now. :)
Continuity checking a high density chip is a real challenge. I hope that you find what the problem is.
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I pulled out one of my e-dongles to reprogram it with DMX for a test.
Now I remember that you definitely have to have the dongles power supply plugged in to make it program.
When you attempt to read the device without the power hooked up you will get 'device not found'.
Once I connected power to the dongle, restarted the PICkit 3 program, set the device type to 'PIC32MX795F512L' which is the device all the way at the bottom of the list I could read, erase, and reprogram the device. The check sum stayed at 000. Be sure the PICkit 3 is pointed (inport file) to the correct code file.
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ok, I double checked my settings using Pickit 3 Programmer ver 1.0 from the Wiki, but got error: "operation failed" I tried Erase, Read, same message.
And yes check sum stayed at 000.
Thank again, back to my search ???
Joe
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just sent a PM
I will come by and see if we can get it going.
Glen
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That is beginning to look like either a bad pickit. The only other thing that I would suggest if possible is to try the device on another PC. There could be something in either the PC or the OS that is interfering with communication between the Picket and the software.
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If it comes down to being a soldering issue on the pic let me know. We will need to get it fixed.
RJ
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Since he appears to be getting the same failure on other devices, it looks like the EDT board is ok.
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No he said it read his LE chip just fine.
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Thank you RJ,
Glen has kindly offered, so I am anxious to meet a DLA friend as well as see what I have missed on my soldering :-[
Thank you RJ, tbone and keith
Joe
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This may not help Segull, but in case others are having trouble and reading this -- I second the previous comment about device interference. In particular, check any and all USB devices and drivers you have installed on the system. I saw a report of at least one case where this was causing problems with PICKit 3 communication.
Gary
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Update,
I was able to get with a fellow DLA, Glen, tested with his Pic3 and got the same results.
I used my Pic3 on his EtherDongle and was able to program with no issues.
Glen looked over the EtherDongle very carefully but found all looked OK.
So I know that my Pic3 works, but EtherDongle still does not program.
When I use the programmer I get "operation failed".
And when I use MPLAB IDE I get "PK3Err0035:Failed to get Device ID".
Anyone have any ideas?
Joe
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Didn't RJ volunteer to get it fixed? I'd take him up on that offer.
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I wanted to bring this issue to its conclusion. I took up RJ's offer to check the EtherDongle and this is what he found. "There was a super small bit of solder between two pins on the pic."
Thank you to all who made suggestions on things to try. To Glen, a fellow DLA member that I got to meet for the first time, and especially RJ, for taking some time to trouble shoot my issue <res.
Thank you all
Joe