DiyLightAnimation
Hardware => Lynx Aether => Topic started by: salongaopm on October 10, 2014,
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Today as I was preparing my display for the Halloween, I accidentally plugged in my 3 Aethers to 110v. Is it possible to repair the aethers?
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all three?
ouch.
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yep...all three. After plugging the 3rd aether, I noticed the small spark <md.. That tip me off that I did something wrong <fp.
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The primary thing that you did wrong was to use a 120V plug on a 12V device and I would change that before even worrying about fixing the devices. You may have just fried the regulators.
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voltage regulator = LD1117V33C ?
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That is one of them but taking a further look at the parts being used, you probably have more damage than that. Even the rectifier is only rated for 100V peak voltage and you hit it with over 120V. You would need to connect the device up to a landscape transformer and begin doing some voltage measurements to see what is and isn't working such as the rectifier, the 5V regulator, the 3.3V regulator, and the electrolytic cap (big one next to the rectifier). Also see of you blew the fuse. I would remove the PIC and the 485 before testing.
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how testing is done? can you give a step by step instructions for dummies.
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anyone?
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Check/tested the following parts:
Using instructions from the link below:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_6MRoIZQFY
LD33V
- INPUT = 0.00
- OUTPUT = 0.00
7805
- INPUT = 0.03 - 0.00
- OUTPUT = 0.00
7812
- INPUT = 0.03 - 0.00
- OUTPUT = 0.00
LDO Voltage Regulators
Lm2941T = 0.00
All Bad readings?
Using instructions from the link below:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=11JPy4t36oo
RECTIFIER
- READING 500+ FOR 4 LEGS - Means good?
Lm2941T
0.00 reading from left and right legs
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All of those regulator readings show that you are not getting power on the board. The first step would be to check the fuse and make sure that it is not blown and you need to check it with your meter. The fuse is the little green component to the lower left of the AC input. Set the meter to measure resistance and measure across the fuse. Zero resistance shows that the fuse is still good while anything above 1 ohm shows it to be damaged or blown. If the fuse is good, then we can proceed with testing and if not, it needs to be replaced before we can proceed. Make sure to check all three Aethers.
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Check the fuse,
Mouser Part #: 576-0251007.MXL
Manufacturer Part #: 0251007.MXL
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fuse should be blown, othe damage likely but the fuse will almost for sure need replacing.
RJ
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I checked the fuse and there is no changes in the reading of the multimeter. I am not sure if I did it right though. I set the multimeter rotary switch to 200 ohm ( I thjnk) just beside the continuity sign. The multimeter reads figure 1 without doing anything and I got a reading of 1 also, no change after touching both ends of the fuse with leads.
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That indicates that your fuse is blown. If your meter has a continuity function, you can use that to test fuses. If you switch the meter to that function and touch the leads together, it should beep or send out some type of tone. This indicates that you have a connection between the two points. It should do the same thing when you touch the leads to the ends of the fuse and if not, then the fuse is blown and needs to be replaced before going any further with determining what else is damaged.
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I replaced the blown fuse and now it lights up white but not responding to a test sequence. What else could be the problem? I also checked the other two aether, one cosmetically looks clean and okay while the other one looks really bad with burnt parts and marks...looks like a goner or at least will need a lot of work. See attached picture:
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Ok for the Aether II that comes on white you need to first check the 3.3v regulator to make sure it is putting out 3.3 volts. If it is then you need to try reprogramming your PIC, or you may have to replace it. Simply when you turn on the Aether II the PIC is supposed to send 3.3 volts to all four LM2941 to turn them off. You can check out this post for some troubleshooting: http://diylightanimation.com/index.php?topic=11420.msg150280#msg150280
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I check the 3.3v regulator and it is putting out 3.3 volts. You mentioned programming the PIC, does it means programing the start channel or flashing it using pickit? If programming the start channel, can it be done using an etherdongle? I currently don't have a usb dongle that is why I am asking.
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Yes, you will need a Pickit2 or 3 to flash the pic. Neither ED or USB dongles will work.
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I got one fixed... replaced blown fuse, burnt st485 and reflash and reprogram start channel of pic. Working okay now. one down two more to go.
I checked the reading of the second aether got the following:
LD33V
input=3.3 output=1.66 (BAD?)
7805
input=13.27 output=4.97 (OK?)
7812
input= 13.33 output=11.39 (OK?)
I replaced the fuse, st485 and pic already. All the response I got from the aether is a short burst of white when plugging it in. Not responding to test sequence. I will try to replace the ld33v and see if it fix it. Any other parts that I should check? Are the reading for 7805 and 7812 ok?
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I replaced LD33V but I am still getting 1.66 output and aether is not responding to a test sequence. Any suggestions?
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You are getting that output voltage because your input voltage is WAY too low. You should be seeing around 5V on the input of the LD33V. Is the regulator getting hot?
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Are you sure you are measuring the right pins on the LD33V for the input and output? They are not the same as the other two regulators. If you measure between Vin and Vout, you will get 1.7V which looks like what you are reading for the output.
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Assuming your voltages are OK. Can you take the pic and ST485 chip from the working Aether and try them in non-working one.
Or it might be safer if you take the chips from the non working Aether and try them in the working one.
This will at least eliminate those 2 components.
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it seems that the replacement pic is also bad. after replacing the pic again, it started working properly. fixed two...one more to go.