DiyLightAnimation
Hardware => Bobcat DMX Tester => Topic started by: dlhoppe on December 31, 2010,
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I'll be using the first post in this thread to place links, photos and such until we have them added to the wiki.
BOMs:
Main Tester Components: http://www.mouser.com:80/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=8ABF3AEFB2
Optional Wireless Tx: http://www.mouser.com:80/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=0a8146d89a
Enclosures out of stock at Mouser. Here are alternative suppliers with stock:
Black, Gray or Almond: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=H75-4AA
Firmware:
DMX Tester.HEX = Tester PIC
DMX_TESTER_TX.hex = Ex/Rx firmware for Tx
Photos:
Rev1 Tester Mod.jpg = Mod required for Rev1 PCB (Beta Testing only)
ExRx For Tester.jpg = How to build for Tx (please note that the PIC can still be installed in a socket rather than soldered directly)
Build Video:
http://vimeo.com/23517936
Current Feature List:
Dual Modes: Channel Selection or Dimmer Value with LED readout of value (slide switch)
Rotary Encoder: For dialing up or down the values
x10 multiplier: Increment/decrement value by 10 (encoder speed-sensing enabled, spin knob faster for x10 mode)
Dimmer Value Range: 0-255-PLS (PLS = pulse, see below)
Channel Value Range: 1..512.ALL.1..512.ALL...etc. ("wrap-around" in both directions)
All Channel Dimming: Select "ALL" in channel mode to apply dimmer value to all 512 channels together
Portable: Battery operated (4AA alkaline or rechargeable batteries)
RJ45 Output: For Cat-5 cable connectivity (DMX)
Built-In Wireless Option: Uses a stripped down Ex/Rx as a Tx (with custom firmware from RJ)
Chase Simulation: Adjacent channels only (turn the encoder in channel mode)
Pulse Mode: In dimmer value mode, moving to one value higher than 255 will cause the current channel(s) to flash on and off (troubleshooting mode)
Low Battery Indicator: Right-most decimal place will flash when battery gets low
Low power consumption (24 hours of on-time in wireless mode, 40 hours of on-time in wired mode)
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A member was working on a handheld tester but I don't believe he finished it.
RJ talked about one but I don't know if he ever got pass the talking part or other projects took priority over the tester
Sorry I can't give you a better answer
Rick R.
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I would love to have a wireless tester with some sort of strength meter especially. Helps as next year our show is going to 6 houses total.
But I know RJ is busy with a lot of other things already.. LE CoOP soon SS coop.. etc
-JS
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Ok, just for the fun of it I'm going to take a crack at prototyping a simple, portable DMX512 channel tester. I'll steal RJ's idea for a rotary encoder and LED readout using two "modes". One mode will allow the encoder to set the channel number, and the other will set the dimmer value for the currently selected channel. The mode values will be shown on a 3-digit LED. I'll use a simple toggle to switch between modes. Just for grins, I'll add an "ALL" value to the channel selector to allow dimming all 512 channels together. For now I'll stick with wired DMX. I figure I can easily pipe that into my Tx/Rx unit for wireless. I'll build the prototype with a 6v battery pack so I can share power via patch-cord with the Tx/Rx to keep everything portable.
My crude parts list totals just under $20 without case. I'm a software guy, so I may have to reach out for some help regarding the electronics. I'm sure my approach to circuit design will be a bit like a bull in a china shop.
I'll post my progress in this thread.
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Sounds interesting. I'm watching.
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RJ talked about one but I don't know if he ever got pass the talking part or other projects took priority over the tester
No when some users started on one I did not procede and was looking forward to them releaseing one.
RJ
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<res. for the one to develope this widget....
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Larry
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Lots of popcorn going on around here! :)
I have a good bit of the PIC programming done. Although I'm only testing in simulation so far since I don't have the hardware yet. I'm sure I'll have some challenges with the DMX timing given the encoder interrupt handler and LED driver logic are sharing the processor. The PIC should have plenty of MIPS to handle it though. I've got a couple of ideas for "whistles and bells" I'll add after the basics are working.
Heading to Florida in a few days for a week of vacation. Look for an update in a couple of weeks.
Cheers,
Dave
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Hi Dave
Sounds good, enjoy your vacation
btw: Can I go with you? I love Florida
Cheers
Rick (Stuck in NJ) R.
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Sounds Good
Thanks for working on this
Bill
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dlhoppe
I am sure we can all help with the electronics side of things, just let us know.
On this project
The yet to be completed DMX tester is here:
http://diylightanimation.com/index.php?topic=2697.0
The source code and schematics are compleat. the packaging is not. That is my bad. The new job has kicked my butt working 12 + hours a day for the past 4 months. Then having to get my own christmas stuff ready before december ate up my weekends. Excuses I know.
I dont know how RJ does it. He is the man.
I do have some code that uses 3 bcd switched to select the address and a pot to adjust level no display needed. if you want it lem me know.
Rob
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Thanks Rob.
I'll post a rough draft of a schematic once I get the encoder inputs written and some hardware testing started.
The PIC coding seems be humming right along. That is, once I knocked the rust off my assembler skills. It's been a while....a long while! PIC programming is rather unique stuff. I have most of the software in place; DMX stream, 3-digit LED multiplexing, mode switching (channel select vs. dimmer value), etc. About all that's left is the quadrature encoder interrupt handler/routine to alter my channel and dimmer values. It's looking good in the simulator, but I'm sure I'll have my troubles once I start testing with hardware.
I'm having fun with it though!
Cheers,
Dave
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Dave-
Would it make sense to use an SAA1064 to drive the displays? It would simplify the coding a bit.
/mike
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Mike,
Thanks for the idea!
If I understand the data sheet, I'd still have to do the work of separating the hundreds, tens and ones digits and then send them serially to the SAA1064. Using the PIC to drive the LED, the digit separation is the only real work I have to do. Multiplexing in the PIC is pretty simple really. It only requires writing the digit segment masks to a port and latching/unlatching one of three output pins in a "round robin" fashion for the three common cathodes. With the SSA1064, I'd still be multiplexing in a way because I'd have to send each digit in sequence serially, also in a "round robin" fashion. To display a value on a 7-segment LED directly from a PIC, I simply get the segment bitmask as a single byte from a jump table and write it to the port. That part couldn't get any simpler or quicker. Staying with the PIC to drive the LED has other advantages as well by keeping the parts count down and the schematic simpler.
Do you happen to have any PIC assembler code that interfaces with the SAA1064? Specifically the "static mode". Using it that way might only require streaming data to it when a value changes rather than continually. I'd like to take a look at an example to see how it works. If it does make things easier than what I have, I'd be interested for sure.
Thanks again,
Dave
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The main advantage of the SAA1064 (or even TLC5916 constant current shift registers) is that you don't have to keep refreshing the displays, which can make things easier if you are trying to get accurate timing or are running out of cycles while processing DMX. You would only need to talk to the display driver when things change. Unfortunately, I don't have any code for it as I tend to program AVRs in C rather than PICs. Maybe RJ has an example? It's the same chip he used in the Lynx Express.
/mike
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Mike,
Yes, I was always a bit worried about running out of cycles to the point where it affects the DMX timing. Right now I only refresh the display while I'm waiting during DMX breaks. However my opportunities will decrease further when I'm processing encoder inputs. If I manage priorities efficiently (DMX first, encoder second, display third), I'm hoping I can do everything on the PIC. It's at least worth a try to keep the hardware simpler and cheaper.
I will search for code examples to drive the SAA1064 in case I need to go in that direction.
Thanks again for your input. Very much appreciated!
Dave
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WOW!
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I don't know how far you are into the coding of the PIC, but you may want to take a look at the propeller chip from parallax (http://www.parallax.com/tabid/407/Default.aspx (http://www.parallax.com/tabid/407/Default.aspx)). It has 8 separate processors (called cogs). You can dedicate cogs to different fuctions. One cog to read the DMX stream. Another to handle the inputs and yet another to handle the output. It is like having 8 pics in one chip tied together via a hub and memory. All cogs can all access the 32 i/o pins. Just a thought.
Egen
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Wow! Definitely sounds like a very capable device. More than three times the price, but probably worth it.
Since I'm this far down the "PIC path", I'll reserve this as a "plan B".
I've done some calculations regarding available cycles on the PIC I'm using. With a 16Mhz clock my shortest DMX break time (60us) equates to 960 clock cycles. The longer break time (100us) is 1600 clock cycles. The DMX routines take a very small handful of cycles (less than 20) for each transmit burst. So a vast majority of the cycles are available for driving the LEDs and processing encoder inputs. I'm feeling pretty confident that the PIC is more than capable. The challenge is more related to my ability to get it to do what I want it to do.
By the way, I finished the quadrature encoder input routines. I still have a little work to do to make sure that the DMX timing has priority over all other tasks. Other than that, I'm just about ready to start breadboarding the hardware to begin testing.
Out of town for a week starting Friday, so I probably won't post any more progress until after that.
Cheers,
Dave
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Ok, I'm back on the job.
I've got all the PIC programming/debugging hardware online and working. Before I start breadboarding the prototype, I'm hoping I can get some feedback from someone with electronics expertise. I'm a little out of my element in the hardware dept, so any help I can get would be appreciated. I'm trying to keep this thing as simple as possible for low parts count and cost.
I'm most concerned about the ST485BN wiring. I took my best shot at it based on what I could dig up via google. Attached is a rough draft of the schematic.
Thanks,
Dave
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Ok, I'm back on the job.
I've got all the PIC programming/debugging hardware online and working. Before I start breadboarding the prototype, I'm hoping I can get some feedback from someone with electronics expertise. I'm a little out of my element in the hardware dept, so any help I can get would be appreciated. I'm trying to keep this thing as simple as possible for low parts count and cost.
I'm most concerned about the ST485BN wiring. I took my best shot at it based on what I could dig up via google. Attached is a rough draft of the schematic.
Thanks,
Dave
Caps around the regulator to prevent oscillation. I forget them myself often.
Pull the Mclr pin #1 on the pic high through like a 4.7k or something like resistor to allow it to run.
Put a 4.7 k resistor to ground off of RC0 and RC1 as a pull down so push button and switch will function reliably. If weak pull ups are avaliable in this pic and port enable them and put switchs to ground instead of High and leave resistors off.
Just a quick glance hope it helps.
RJ
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RJ,
Thanks a bunch for taking the time to look at this.
I didn't really understand your advice regarding the regulator caps, but I took a crack at it. The power is supplied by battery pack so I assumed everything would be "smooth". Are you saying the clock might introduce oscillation? That would make sense so I added a cap on the output side of the regulator. Is that the correct way to do it? How big of a cap should I use?
Resistors were added to RC0 and RC1 per your advice. I assume this prevents "noise" from any contact chattering? Port C on this PIC does not support weak pull-ups. Port B does support it, but I would have to rearrange a fair bit of code and port functionality to accomodate it. So I went with the resistors instead.
Also, should I add high value resitors to RC2 and RC3 for the same reasons as done for the switches? I'm using a mechanical encoder so I assume there might be noise there as well.
Attached is an updated schematic.
Thanks again,
Dave
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Ok, through research I'm starting to figure some of this stuff out. I'm going through "electronics 101" right now. It's really interesting, but I feel like I'm in kindergarten again. Ugh!
The encoder inputs will definitely need some kind of debounce filter in order to use a cheap mechanical encoder. Even if I go so far as using an MC14490 bounce eliminator, it's still cheaper than an optical or magnetic encoder. I'll explore some bounce filter circuits using caps and resistors first in an effort to keep costs down. The MC14490 is relatively expensive ($5.77), but a good "plan B".
I now understand the uses for pull-up and pull-down resistors. I'll be adding them to the RC2 and RC3 encoder inputs as well.
I also found the info from the regulator manufacturer on proper use of capacitors. That's taken care.
Thanks,
Dave
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You can handle the debounce in firmware instead of hardware if you choose. That is what I do.
Basicly accept the input and branch code. Then diable input of the port and pause, then check for the port to swing the other way on a release, Then pause, then go on your merry way to do what ever need to happen on a push.
This way you get one input per push and allow the contacts to stop bouncing.
Hope this helps.
RJ
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The 100n bypass capacitors need to be close to the regulator and to the Vcc pins of each IC/oscillator. They prevent oscillations in the regulator, and provide a small local energy storage for each component to handle switching and surge current. They are usually ceramic, not electolytic.
You will likely need cathode drivers for the LED; I don't think the PIC can handle the current of all segments on at once. 2n3904 are commonly used here.
The ST485 is a 5V part; I am not sure how well it will work on 3.3v
I would add the pulldowns to the rotary encoder too; as for debouncing, you can do that in software with no additional hardware (google "Ganssle debounce" for some algorithms and sample code.
/mike
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Thanks a ton for the information guys! I will do my best to implement the debounce in software.
In the meantime, here's a look at the schematic using the M14490. It's not much more complex than feeding the switches and encoder into the PIC with pull-up/pull-down resistors (it has built-in pull-up resistors by the way). It also eliminates the need for any debounce logic in the PIC. Although clearly the more attractive option is software debounce resulting in lower cost for this device. I will take a crack at a debounce routine and keep this in my back pocket as a fall-back solution.
I was also concerned about the current required for driving the LEDs directly. At 20ma for each segment, worst case is 140ma to represent the number "8". This is based on the fact that I'm multiplexing one digit at a time. The PIC can handle up to 200ma across all ports, so I think I have enough headroom to go with this simpler approach. Let me know if I'm missing something here though.
Thanks again for your input,
Dave
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Yes, I missed the voltage requirements for the ST485. I must have misread the data sheet.
Ok, I added an additional regulator to power the ST485. One thing I'm not clear on is the need for capacitors on the input side of the regulators. Is this necessary when using battery power? The two capacitors (for input side) that are specified in the regulator datasheets are of different properties. If I have to use these, will they interfere with each other being on the same power input lines?
I attached both versions of the circuit. One for hardware debounce and the other using software debounce.
Thanks,
Dave
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google "Ganssle debounce" for some algorithms and sample code.
/mike
Mike,
Thanks for this valuable tip. The examples were easy to understand for a newbie like me. I found the info I needed to add really simple debounce logic to my existing code. I'm using the "counter" approach to wait for stable encoder input before acting on it. I added an easily adjustable threshold so I can tune the sampling duration.
Dave
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At quick glance, it looks like the VIH of the ST485 (2V) is less than the VOH of the of the PIC (2.4V) so it is OK to drive the 5V part from the 3.3V.
Looking at the regulators, they both want a 10uF cap on the output for stability. The applications schematics also show a 10uF one on the input; I would add one or at least provide the footprint for it on the board; they are cheap. You will run into a problem with the 5V regulator, however, as 6V doesn't give enough headroom. There are some RS485 drivers that run on 3.3V, and they are not much more expensive than the ST485 plus the extra regulator.
Looking at the LED, there are two things to take into account - sourcing the segments, and sinking the common cathodes. You have one pin for each cathode; that pin would have to sink the full current from 7 anodes. That's why I mentioned needing a transistor there as the PIC won't be able to handle it. BTW, 20mA per segment seems a bit high these days (though the average current will be about a third of that due to multiplexing, so you may need to hit them that hard...)
/mike
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Mike,
Yeah, I looked a bit for a 3.3v 485 chip, but I went ahead and added the other regulator instead. I'll look a little more, or even consider driving the existing one with 3.3v.
Oh yeah! A big "duh" on my part. I was so caught up with each anode being sourced by a separate pin that I completely overlooked the fact that I had a single pin sinking the common cathode. I assume the current would be "halved" between source and sink for each segment, but even then it's too much for a single pin to sink all the segments. Although I'm not all that sure about the actual current requirements for the LED. I find it odd that the data sheet for the LED unit does not explicitly state the context for the current requirements. I have to assume that it's 20ma per segment. Here's the data sheet. If you could take a minute and look it over, I would appreciate it: http://www.us.kingbright.com/images/catalog/SPEC/BC56-12SRWA.pdf I wouldn't be suprised at all if I'm completely misinterpreting it.
Attached latest schematic.
Thanks again,
Dave
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A quick search on Mouser turned up SP3490CN-L in SOIC or SN65HVD1780P in DIP (but that's very expensive...) Digikey has ADM3493ARZ or ST3485ECDR in SOIC or ISL3294EIHZ-T in SOT23-6 if you are short on space. They are all 3.3V parts (the SOT23 one is just a transmitter, but that's all you need.)
You will need a resistor in series with the base of each of those transistors. As for current, it does look like the recommended current for those displays is 20mA; with 10mA they will be half as bright. Since you are multiplexing them, they will be a bit dimmer than that.
/mike
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Cool, thanks again Mike. I'm learning a lot!
Transistor base resistors calculated (correctly I think) and the 485 chip has been substituted for a 3.3v unit.
Dave
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Ok, thanks to Mike and RJ for helping out a total newbie with the hardware aspect of this project. I think I'm at a point now where the circuit design is stabilized enough that I won't let out any smoke. I'll post some updates once I get the hardware put together and start debugging the software.
Latest schematic attached.
Dave
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I would be more than willing to fund and Beta test my portion of this for you. I know I have been mute on this particular subject, but i am really am a tester, more than a design type of guy/personality. I will be happy to run this back and forth and I even have a test bed across the street (+25yard) to do all the great data collection.
You are really on to something, and if this is the only portion I can offer any assistance. I would consider it a privilege. I have been a member for over a year with zero contribution. I am a communication/securtiy/fiber guy by day. I test constantly and hope you consider my offer.
Again, good work on this tester.
Kevin Lederer
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Kevin,
At this point there's no real funding to be concerned about. The hardware cost is minimal and the software is only costing me time. Not sure about PCB printing though. I'll worry about that when the time comes. I'm hopeful others with that particular experience will guide me or step up and participate themselves.
If you have a PIC programmer and want to breadboard the hardware I'd be happy to send you the hex file for testing once I get it to a reasonably runnable state. I believe all the part #'s are listed on the schematic. Although I can post a more detailed BOM later tonight with the specific Mouser part #'s that I'm using.
Thanks for offering. I like the fact that folks are willing to step up and help around here. Makes for a fun project when there's different people with different skills willing to share them. This has been a fun project for me. I always wanted to tinker around with circuit design and microprocessor control. I'm hopeful this will also be useful once it's done.
Dave
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Dave, I do have a PIC programmer and will check into all this weekend. When you are ready I will be here. You are doing a great job.
Kevin
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Here's the current parts list for the prototype. Obviously a work in progress. Once this circuit design proves to be workable I'll spend more time finding cheaper alternatives to some of these items. Notably the 3.3v 485 chip. The current price for this BOM is $26.38 (PCB and enclosure not included) with the 485 chip being the most expensive item at $3.91.
Dave
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This looks interesting
Someone pass me some popcorn
Joe
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Dlhoppe,
Could you not eliminate the RS485 chip if you are connecting directly to the Lynx transmitter? at a minimum, you could just jump from your RS485 socket to the transmitter's 485 socket. Maybe RJ can chime in on this one. That would save you the 3.91 for the 485 chip and another $1.10 for the ethernet connector. If the user is planning on using the a hardwire, then he would need the both parts. You could make these optional.
I am in the process of ordering all the necessary parts to put this together and if I have time, I will throw your schematic into eagle and make up a pcb. I will make it a through-hole, but if this works out, then I am considering making it a surface mount...
I will let you know when I would need the firmware.
Thanks,
Charles S.
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I definitely want both options. I don't know if the 485 can be eliminated for wireless. RJ's design on the "Tx only" device still uses one. Without researching, I suspect the voltage characteristics from the PIC are not suitable for a 485 interface. In any case, I'd like to get things working in a wired scenario first to keep things simple for debugging and testing. I have wireless parts to test the wireless scenario afterwards.
Thanks for jumping in. I could use the help. Especially with the PCB design.
Testing is going pretty well so far. I have the hardware fired up and have debugged all the input issues. I got bogged down a bit having to learn how to configure all the I/O ports to suit my needs. One problem I couldn't overcome with my inexperience so I ended up remapping the ports a bit for the input pins and the cathode driver pins. Right now I'm about to get an SSR4 connected and see where we are with the DMX signal.
Latest schematic attached...
Dave
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By the way Mike and RJ, the debounce routine in software works like a charm. Thanks for pushing me in that direction. :)
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I have entered the schematic in Kicad; I should have a board layed out tomorrow. I will roll in your latest changes.
/mike
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Are you going to add an ICSP header and circuitry?
Charles
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I'd like to, yes. Mike, did you add that to your PCB layout? Can you?
First attempts to get blinky didn't produce any results. I don't have the lower voltage 485 chip yet, so I tried the 5v version. Not sure if that is the problem. Mike seemed to think it might have worked at 3.3v. I have a couple of adjustable regulators handy. Tomorrow night I'll add one to the ciruit and dial it upp to 5v for the 485 chip.
My other concern is that my two SSR4's are newly built and not tested. I don't have a dongle yet, so there's no way to know if they are operational. I'm going to have to find a way to log the DMX output. I used to have an old oscilliscope that my father-in-law gave me. Too bad I got rid of it a few years ago. I'll see if I can come up with an RS485 sniffer/logger?
We're getting close! Keep the popcorn poppin! :)
Dave
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Houston, we have blinky!!! ;D
I had one wrong connection on my breadboard. I decided to sit down and look it over and found it. I wasn't pulling the send-enable pin high on the 485 chip. Turns out the 5v version of the 485 chip (ST485BN) works fine. So there's cost savings there.
Everything is working rock solid except for a small needed tweak on the encoder debounce routine. I wrote it so I could adjust a single value for tuning so I'll just have to do some more testing to get it right.
I'm amazed at how well the DMX logic works right out of the box. Being a software developer, I know that's kind of rare for newly written code to work right away. By the way, I didn't write that particular part from scratch. What I have is derived from the DMX example on Microchip's website.
I'll setup a demo and post a video in the next night or two so you all have something to watch while eating your popcorn. ;D
Cheers,
Dave
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Great news! <res.
RJ
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To do list:
Tune the debounce. It's almost perfect, but I believe I detected a couple of rough spots so I will work on that. It could be related to the encoder I'm prototyping with though.
Add the x10 multiplier logic. The encoder I'm using in the prototype has 24 detents per revolution with four transitions between each detent. That's 96 transitions per revolution. It's not appropriate at all for this application, but was good enough to test with. The one on the BOM in an earlier post has no detents and 24 total transitions per revolution. It should work way better for accuracy, but the x10 feature will be necessary to move quickly through the input values if you want to get from one value to a another distant one.
Add a "loop-around" for the channel select. What I mean by that is if I'm rolling down, when I get to channel 1, the next transition down will get me to 512. I actually have an "all" selection just above 512, so we can dim all 512 channels together. The "loop-around" feature would give the channel selection range of 1...512.ALL.1...512.ALL.1...512.ALL. and would continue to loop around as long as you keep turning the encoder in the same direction. Looping will work in either direction.
Look at driving a transmitter component as an option. I'm sure the Lynx transmitter will work fine, but it would be nice to have wireless inherent in the same device. Maybe having dual output or a selection switch to choose. What do you think?
ICSP port.
PCB design. We've got a couple of people on this already. I think Mike is already pretty close to done with the current prototype design.
Once we get all this stuff done, we'll have a pretty handy little device. Given that the ST485BN works, I put the cost for non-bulk pricing at roughly $23 to build this prototype (without PCB and case). Some of that cost is for the power plugs and power port to supply 6v to the the Lynx transmitter. Eliminating them would lower the cost more yet.
Dave
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Good work - looking forward to the coop! Thanks for all your effort.
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Here's a quick first pass at the board. At Dave's suggestion, I ended up putting all of the components other than the switches and display on the back side of the board, and had to stand the resistors on end for them to fit. There are still a few tweaks I would like to do for cleanup, and am open to any suggestions.
/mike
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N1ist,
Are the Gerber274 files available? what is the size of the board? I would send of and get a few prototype boards made.
Thanks,
Charles S.
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What does a prototype of a board like this cost? I'm guessing there is a minimum number that you have to order.
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nope I can get just one, or as many as I would like, but it gets expensive. if you want more than 10, then a board house would be best.
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It's 2.5" x 3". I'll get gerbers up tomorrow; I want to do a quick review to make sure I didn't miss anything first. At BatchPCB, that will come to $18.75 for one. In quantity, you can get 26 boards for $89 from pcbgeek. It would drop a bit for 50 from pcbcart, but their real savings comes in at larger quantities.
/mike
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Here's a quick first pass at the board. At Dave's suggestion, I ended up putting all of the components other than the switches and display on the back side of the board, and had to stand the resistors on end for them to fit. There are still a few tweaks I would like to do for cleanup, and am open to any suggestions.
/mike
Mike, This is awesome! It's coming along nicely. Thanks for your work on this. I'm really getting excited about how quickly this is moving along.
Some things to think about as you already mentioned in your PM. What do we do about a battery pack? Making this portable would be fantastic and is what I had in mind all along. Being able to stroll around outside with it in hand and either plugging a short cat-5 into the controllers or interfacing in wireless mode would be really nice. How about we consider some rechargables in the box with a charge jack? That would alleviate your concerns about having to open the box to change batteries on occasion (given the plastic screw holes). Power consumption is good. As a wired device, it's only pulling about 70ma. With the alkaline AAA's, that's good for around 14 hours of "on time". With wireless, it will consume somewhere around 200ma. Maybe five hours of "on time" with AAA's. So rechargables might be a nice option.
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I believe I have everything just about finished on the software side. I'm sure we'll find a glitch or two, but I've been hitting it pretty hard with testing and it's been pretty well bullet-proof. I got as much out of the debounce as I'm going to get. Given the priority I have to give to the DMX, it just can't keep up with ultra-fast encoder spinning. when you spin really fast, it just doesn't respond as well. It does not skip values though. Although it's still pretty quick. The x10 and wrap-around logic is done. Other than adding more whistles and bells, I think it's stable enough to share the hex file whenever you guys want it.
One of the features I like about this tester is that you can put it in channel select mode and turn the encoder back and forth. It will chase through the adjacent channels. So if you had say a mega tree or some arches where the lights are organized in adjacent channels, you can simulate spinning the mega tree of chasing through your arches. Pretty cool. I got some ooohs an ahhhs when Cindi walked in while I was testing. She can't wait til next year's holiday season. :)
Dave
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This is great news! I can't wait for my parts to arrive, so I can breadboard this and test it out.
Thanks
Charles S.
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Guys,
I hate to be the rain cloud but this is starting to sound like a unapproved coop. I am exicted to see this come to be to but we can not get carried away and start ordering large numbers of pcb people without following the rules. If someone wants to order a prototype or two is one thing but 50 for others is the same as a coop.
You can do it, but you need a approved coop manager to run it.
RJ
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This project still has a ways to go before even thinking of a coop. I just posted board pricing to give people the idea of what boards cost (in general) for prototype quantities. At this point, this project is still in the design phase, and I wouldn't expect anyone to order boards other than me, Dave, and Charles to verify the design. For everyone else, enjoy the popcorn.
<pop..
/mike
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I am just enjoying the progress and the ability the this DLA group has to pull together to make something that we can all benefit from. Thanks again
Glen <pop..
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Sorry. I was asking the price of a prototype board because I would like to know how people get prototypes made. I'm just eager to learn.
-
This project still has a ways to go before even thinking of a coop. I just posted board pricing to give people the idea of what boards cost (in general) for prototype quantities. At this point, this project is still in the design phase, and I wouldn't expect anyone to order boards other than me, Dave, and Charles to verify the design. For everyone else, enjoy the popcorn.
<pop..
/mike
Agreed. I had no intentions of starting a coop. Lots of work to be done before we hand it over to the coop managers. I suspect there might be a PCB revision or two along the way as well. So this thing is definitely not ready for prime-time yet.
RJ, thanks for chiming in. I think people are just anxious to get their hands on one.
-
RJ,
Sorry if I made it sound like we were planning or trying to do a COOP. This is not the case. My intention was to get the board dimensions to see how many prototype boards I wanted to foot for us to test. At 20 bucks a pop and 3 to 4 weeks lead, I might do two or three out of my pocket and provide them to n1ist and dlhoppe.
Once again, sorry.
Thanks,
Charles S.
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It is no problem and the forum staff will work with everyone when you are ready I just did not want to dissappoint people farther down the line. I am as excited for it to happen as anyone and we will get a coop manager if need for it. We have had a number of members step forward recently so even if none of you can, it will happen we just have to do it proper. No need to be sorry no one did anything just making sure everyone understands.
RJ
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Another "whistle/bell". I'm adding a bit of logic so the unit will remember the settings from last use. It's a rather simple device, but if anyone has any other suggestions for enhanced usability, I'd be happy to hear them. I believe we're pretty well tapped out functionality-wise, so all we can do is polish the features we have.
Current Feature List:
Dual Modes: Channel Selection or Dimmer Value with LED readout of value (slide switch)
Rotary Encoder: For dialing up or down the values
x10 multiplier: Increment/decrement value by 10 (momentary pushbutton enabled)
Dimmer Value Range: 0-255
Channel Value Range: 1..512.ALL.1..512.ALL...etc. ("wrap-around" in both directions)
Settings Persistence: Recalls channel and dimmer values from last use when powered on
Portable: Battery operated (battery type not yet determined)
RJ45 Output: For Cat-5 cable connectivity
Built-In Wireless: TBD - already compatible with Lynx Tx (supplies pwr to Lynx Tx for portability)
Chase Simulation: Adjacent channels only
All Channel Dimming: Select "ALL" in channel mode to apply dimmer value to all 512 channels together
Cheers,
Dave
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<pop..
-
It's a rather simple device, but if anyone has any other suggestions for enhanced usability, I'd be happy to hear them.
Uh, put it all in my Droid phone! <yk..
<pop..
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Does it come in red for Bill! ;D
RJ
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Does it come in red for Bill! ;D
RJ
Sorry, I don't know how to code the red ones. :P
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can you make me a Bumble Bee version? I would really like one of those.
lol
kevin
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have you selected a case to house this in yet?
Larry
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It's not final yet (we still need to build prototypes and test things) but we are looking at the Serpac H-65-9V-A case (H-65-9V-TR-RD for Bill :) ) We may have to go to the H-67 case if the -65 one isn't thick enough for the RJ45 connector...
/mike
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Can I make a suggestion for the case and look at one from polycase such as the vm-24 or similar. That way if a member is buying cases for a dongle or wireless tx/rx and this tester they pay shipping to one vendor instead of multiple. Just a thought...
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Nevermind, I just realized you can get the serpac case at mouser - I guess I should've googled first. Is googled an actual verb???
-
Yes, it is a verb. I google when I drink too much.... <;d
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I just fall down (http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/smiley-eatdrink007.gif) (http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys.php)
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Hi all,
I thought you might like to see a little demonstration of the functionality this tester will provide. This is not a hardware demo as I still only have my breadboard setup so far.
Fortunately I have a couple of enthusiastic people from this group who have stepped up to help out. Mike (n1ist) has really helped me with the circuit design and I will defer to him on the direction this thing takes from a hardware perspective. He also has experience with microcontroller programming as well, so I'm getting good mileage out of his involvement! RJ has stepped up with some technical advice and also some software suggestions. I hope to lean on him in some other areas of this project as well. Charles (egenoup) has also stepped up to help with various aspects of this project, but we'll be valuing his testing efforts the most. Thanks to everyone else for their supportive comments and private messages. Keep the exchange going. It sure makes this a fun place to visit.
http://www.vimeo.com/19305948
Cheers,
Dave
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Looks Awesome Dave
Many thanks for the video
Cheers
Rick R.
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Looks Awesome Dave!
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Just watched the demo.
Looks good.
1 feature suggestion...
could you use the decimal point character on the LED display to indicate what mode it is in
ie. if it is channel mode light the decimal point between the 1s and 10s digit and if it is in dimmer mode light the 10s and 100s digit.
Dan
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Yes, we thought about using the decimal points. In fact, Mike added a trace to an available PIC pin in the PCB layout. However, I would prefer to conserve as much power as possible. That's why I also suppress leading zeros on the LED display. I assumed labels next to the slide switch would be sufficient to indicate the mode, and personally I think it would be more intuitive. But if enough people think using the decimals are more intuitive than labels by the switch, I would consider it. I think you'd probably have to add labels below the decimal points anyway to indicate what it means. Tough call. Like I said, we have discussed it.
Thanks for your input,
Dave
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Dave,
I love it!
How about a 9v battery pack - multiples in parallel and some kind of power save mode after a timeout like you do with the data settings?
<pop..
-Paul
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Yeah, the PIC does have a sleep mode, but that would interrupt the DMX stream. Might as well power it down that being the case. If you're talking about shutting down the LED output, that's a possibility. The downside is you could leave the device on, not know it and kill the batteries. Maybe that's a possible use for the decimal point? Hmmm...food thought. Thanks!
As far as multiple 9v batteries in parallel, I haven't seen any enclosures with that kind of setup. We really want an enclosure with a built-in battery compartment. Like I mentioned in the video, we're still toying around with battery options. If we can come up with a nice way to incorporate a wireless transmitter that runs on 3.3v (RJ?), we can quit worrying about powering the Lynx Tx and switch to an enclosure that takes 4 AAA or AA batteries. As Mike pointed out to me, the problem with a 6v battery setup is the lack of headroom over a 5v regulator (what the Lynx Tx has). I actually tried some used (but not dead) batteries in a 6v configuration to power the Lynx Tx and it wouldn't function correctly. The batteries have to be fresh for that to work. Mike is looking at the alternatives for power. Hopefully he'll chime in on the power options. He's way more capable than I am in the hardware dept.
Dave
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Great Job!
I will get with you on some answers for you to think about.
RJ
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Thanks for Sharing the video and your time and talents.
this is fun to watch <pop..
Glen
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Looks good and cool to see the progress from forum post to breadboard design.
Waiting for some more... <pop..
Still hoping sometime down the line for a wireless strength meter for the "multi house" or larger landscape set up ;D
-JS
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Take a look at this enclosure...FWIW
http://www.boxenclosures.com/category/category_product.html?cats__id=965
<pop..
-Paul
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Looks good and cool to see the progress from forum post to breadboard design.
Waiting for some more... <pop..
Still hoping sometime down the line for a wireless strength meter for the "multi house" or larger landscape set up ;D
-JS
Check this out: http://www.qsl.net/n9zia/wireless/appendixF.html#8
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I have ordered a panel of prototype boards. I'm not sure if they will get delayed by the Chinese Spring Festival (a lot of board houses shut down for two weeks...).
/mike
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I have been testing the Channel tester with a couple of LE's. I also through in the wireless equipment and played around with the tester. So far it looks like Dlhoppe has a winner! The following is a video of the LE's responding to the channel tester in wired and wireless modes. There is a small issue that seems to be related to the wireless TX/RX or EX/RX, but RJ will have to chime in and he is currently a very busy guy. Thanks RJ for being busy for us and doing the large LE COOP!
The link to the video is: http://vimeo.com/19319158
Enjoy,
CharlesS
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Hi Charles
Great video. Thats for showing both wired and wireless
Cheers
Rick R.
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Nicely done Charles. Keep pounding on it! :)
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Excellent work! I know I'd be interested...
I was going to suggest and LED for a power indicator but since the displays already have one then no sense in adding more hardware to this. I love the idea you have here! I can see myself praising you while using it during a troubleshooting frenzy! lol
Dean
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One thing that you might want to consider is a seperate battery pack for the unit itself. Perhaps something with a belt clip so you don't have to hold on to it and large enough to hold a RC type 7.2V nicad battery pack. This would give you the voltage head room needed for 6V devices, allow much more run time between recharging, and provide more than enough power for a full strength transmitter that can run for extended periods of time as well. I would also consider one other function for the device, a pulse or alternating command capability. RJ had planned to put this function in the Ver 2 dongle but with everything else he has on his plate and with the new Smartstring stuff comming out, who knows if he will ever have the time to complete it. I would make it an option in your all channel function. The purpose for it would be to test transmitter locations. You could put it in this mode and walk around your yard to possible transmitter locations while watching your display. If any part of it stops blinking or does not start then you know that you have a dead spot in that location and may need to find a better location for the transmitter.
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Excellent suggestions! Thanks!
I especially like the pulsing idea. That's purely a software thing. I can see adding that as a dimmer value one positioin above 255. Maybe a dimmer range of 0-255-PLS. Doing it this way keeps it independent of the channel selection. It would allow you to pulse any single channel or all channels as needed. What kind of frequency would you want to see? One second on, one second off?
Yeah, a variety of battery power/wireless scenarios are being considered. I want to explore all options to see what's feasible and then we'll decide probably based on most common needs of the DLA community as a whole. Not to say there couldn't be options, but trying to be all things to all people will paralyze this project. If we end up keeping this thing simple as a purely wired-only device, it will end up in the users hands much quicker. The silver lining in that scenario is that it will still interface just fine with the Lynx Tx. It would be up to the user as to how to power the Tx in a portable fashion for long durations.
Thanks again for the input!
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No problem, glad to help. I was under the impression that one of the ideas was to incorporate the wireless transmitter into the tester itself, perhaps as an option. This is why I suggested the seperate battery pack. I hope that integrating a transmitter into the unit is still an option being considered. Doing that would in my opinion make it a far more capable and usable unit but either way, you guys are doing a great job as seen by the videos.
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O.K. after some sleep today and thinking about this...
Power.... ALWAYS a problem right? Batteries batteries batteries..... So chances are you're going to be near your controller when doing this or at least some of the time. So what if you incorporate the option of plugging it in? Use an off the shelf wal wart (call 'em what you want) from Radio shack or Mouser etc. You won't have to do any external engineering. The connectors to put on the case can have a cut off in it for the batteries so if you have it "plugged in" then the batteries wouldn't be affected.
It's just a thought and gives you options. The jack on the case wouldn't add much more cost and like I said it's optional anyway. Cuz I'm telling ya if I get one and figure it out I'll add one myself like I've done to other devices. Just think of it as a battery eliminator! :)
Dean
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Good suggestions!
I have a list that I'm compiling. I'll certainly give consideration to each one. However, my goal has always been to meet the "basic needs" of the "majority of users". I can't make any promises for individual preferences and "exception scenarios". As with all development projects like this, and I've been involved in countless over the years as a software developer, it's absolutely impossible to be all things for all people. So when throwing suggestions out there, please think about how the majority of users would benefit, not just unique individual preferences.
This message isn't aimed at anyone in particular. Every suggestion is worth hearing, and some I've already implemented. I just wanted to give some guidelines and set some expectations. Please don't take it the wrong way if your ideas don't make it in. It's ok for different people to have different visions.
Again, thanks! I'm more than happy to get the feedback. Keep it coming.
Dave
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Alrighty! I have uploaded a new video showing the new features that have been implemented in the Lynx Channel tester. It also demos the tester running a Lynx RX/TX entirely on battery power.
http://vimeo.com/19374103
Enjoy!
Charles S.
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<pop.. >.d9 <pop..
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Thanks for the update
This is getting better all the time
<pop..
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Awesome! It's getting better and better.....
-
<pop..
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Like the new features!
RJ
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<res. really like where this is going <res.
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Thanks!
I was messing around trying to get a feel for what this thing will look like in it's current incarnation. Attached is a mockup with some labeling to give you an idea. The positioning of switches might be slightly off, but should be close enough for a mockup.
We're still working through a couple of things and hope to have them ironed out real soon. I'm really looking forward to getting an actual prototype in my hands. :)
Cheers,
Dave
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Awesome+ <res.
<;d
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looks great can't wait to build one when the coop start
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Ok, here's an update I thought you might like to hear about.
I just did some initial testing for a built-in wireless solution. RJ was kind enough to lend a hand and we came up with a way (via special firmware) to use a "stripped-down" Ex/Rx as a wireless transmitter. I feel this is the best wireless solution for this portable device. Very low power consumption, yet plenty of transmit power. In my tests, the wireless connection is rock-solid throughout my entire house (3rd floor to basement, any room to any room). I haven't tested max range in a line-of-sight configuration yet, but given the performance through structures, it should be more than adequate for a test device. We've been in a holding pattern until we got this solution worked out, so we can now move forward and get a couple of prototypes put together. We're probably looking at a few weeks at the earliest before we'll have the prototype PCBs.
Attached is a photo of the Ex/Rx build as needed for the tester. One thing to note on the photo. The ICSP header could just be omitted. RJ pointed out that he successfully programs PICs by just temporarily inserting the pins from the PICKIT long enough to write the firmware. So it could be stripped down even more than is shown here.
By the way, we designed this tester so that the wireless is optional. You'll be able to build a wired-only tester if you want to save costs. You can always add the wireless at a later time. The Ex/Rx will connect to the tester as a daughterboard the same way it's used on the LE. As far as coops go, I don't know if having an "option" throws a wench into that process. We'll cross that bridge when we get to it. That will be up to the coop managers.
Cheers,
Dave
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Looks cool. <pop..
-
Simple mods it looks like. Can't wait! <pop..
-Paul
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It'll be like Christmas in April/May hopefully! A new gadget!
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By the way, I tested the low battery indicator quite thoroughly. It gives plenty of headroom between the indicator coming on and the controller acting up. In wireless mode, it just quits. In wired mode it'll produce an interesting light show on it's own when you get to the point where the DMX signal starts falling apart. So if you see strange behavior from the controller, check the low battery indicator. I made it so it will flash (third decimal point) so it should be easy to notice.
Battery life shouldn't be too much of an issue with the 4 AA's. A good set of rechargables (2400mA) should give about 24 hours of on-time in wireless mode, and about 40 hours in wired mode. I did my best to make it as efficient as possible.
-
Looks like you are close to wrapping up a great design.
Does it make any sense to talk about PixelNet?
Could the current PixelNet receivers handle a short frame (512 values) with 171 data filter at slow clock rate?
Just asking.
Now everybody can get mad cuz they cant wait to get their hands one of these test boxes.
-
Good question. I would think RJ has some ideas for that.
This DMX tester design was really his idea anyway. I just stole it and ran with it. ;D
-
I'm in the coop for a dongle and smart hub so PixelNet testing is in my future but do not have practical experience with microcontrollers. Do you use a buffer with an index to output your data stream like the app note or do you just have a few buffers that hold the current data? BTW I looked at the TX device that RJ has listed and it is quite small, uses 3.3V and has an SPI interface which is supported by your micro. Can you take advantage of that and just put the little transmitter board on a small motherboard to both form the counterpoise for the antenna and support the interface connector? It would seem that such a small device might actually be interfaced to the test box through an RJ45 connector. The pins 1 and 2 would be used in the hardwired connection and would not be used in wireless mode. Pins 7 and 8 could be the 3.3volts and ground for power to the device and four pins remain for carrying the data and controls for the SPI interface. So for a hardwire link just use a short cat5 jumper that only uses pins 1 and 2. For the wireless link plug in the little TX board with its male RJ45 that uses all pins except 1 and 2. By a quick swap, you change from wired to wireless and just keep the TX dongle stored in a safe place when not in use. One problem though is that with the UART (old terminology) you get time to do things while it is processing a block of data but I don't know if that is possible with the SPI port. Maybe providing a clock and the uart data to the device will get you there. Just don't know enough about the protocol. I also noticed that the TX only supports up to 250KHz so it would not work for PixelNet.
-
Roger,
Please PM him on this. This is techincal in nature and really does not fit in the DLA intent of keep things non techincal on the forums. I am sure he will be more than happy to discuss it with you that way.
RJ
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We haven't looked into supporting Pixelnet yet. As for wireless, yes, that's planned in the current version and has been prototyped and tested. There are no jumpers to play with; it's all controlled from a front-panel switch.
I'm hoping the boards will be here this week for more testing.
/mike
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Thanks for the update
<pop..
-
Quick update.
Mike just got word that the prototype PCBs were delayed. Looks like another couple of weeks, give or take.
-
Just assembled the first of my Express kits. Went very well. I must say I never really gave this scenario much thought as a good use for the tester. It was ultra convenient to just plug in the tester and put the Express through it's paces to verify the build. No need to be near a computer with a dongle to test. Nice! Can't wait to release this to the coop managers for everyone. Hopefully soon...
Dave
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Just got word that the proto PCBs have shipped and should be here this coming week.
/mike
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Just got word that the proto PCBs have shipped and should be here this coming week.
/mike
Nice, looking forward to building one of these :)
-
Of course, just when I get tired of waiting and order a set from a US board house, the ones from China finally ship...
I have loaded one, but haven't had a chance to test it.
/mike
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Awesom! Getting closer....
So how much cheaper is it to use a China board than a US based company?
-
In this case, the board house in China (pcbgeek) charged $89 for a 200-square inch panel (16 boards), including shipping. The American house (4pcb) has a prototype special - 4 boards for $33 each with a fifth tossed in free, plus shipping. There are likely better choices out there; I am running a proto of the DMX servo controller at iteadstudios (10 boards for $28 plus shipping).
/mike
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Nice, looking forward to putting one together. Thanks for leading the effort on the hardware side Mike!
As soon as we assemble a couple and test them, we'll send some boards to the coop managers so they can do their own build and see how best to organize a coop. I guess the only real question is how to handle the wireless "option". We'll let the coop managers decide that.
Cheers,
Dave
P.S. Mike and Charles, please photo-document your builds so we'll have them for the wiki.
-
In this case, the board house in China (pcbgeek) charged $89 for a 200-square inch panel (16 boards), including shipping. The American house (4pcb) has a prototype special - 4 boards for $33 each with a fifth tossed in free, plus shipping. There are likely better choices out there; I am running a proto of the DMX servo controller at iteadstudios (10 boards for $28 plus shipping).
/mike
Wow big difference. cool...
Can't wait for the availability of these! Should be cool! And I've gotten in on the wireless coop so this should be a great option!
Dean
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I got the boards in the mail today. I have one almost fully assembled. Just need a 14pin socket for the line driver. I could solder the chip in, but decided against it. I'll run into the shack later and get one so I can get this finished tonight. Look for pics later this evening.
Dave
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Just need a 14pin socket for the line driver.
Remember, a 14-pin socket can also be a six-pin and an eight-pin soldered in next to one another ;) ...
\dmc
PS: Or, a 16- or 18-pin with some pins cuts off (someone on this or another board said they cut theirs up with a bandsaw).
-
Update:
I completed the assembly and everything works exactly as it should. Awesome job on the PCB design Mike! Works like a charm. Now I just need to do some cutting on the enclosure and button it all up.
Dave
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<pop..
Can't wait - HOPE to have one by LSH Academy - be an awesome item to show off and spike intreats in DIY.
Harrison
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Here's my prototype unit. Don't look too hard at the hack job I did on the enclosure... :-[
-
A couple more pics...
I'm going to play around with some graphics using my vinyl cutter. I'll post more pics when I get that done.
Cheers,
Dave
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Dave....
That looks great!! Been following this for a while and really excited to see it coming to a end user product prototype!
Duane
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If you are thinking of building the tester (or the servo controller) with the wireless option, don't forget to get at least a PCB in the current coop... Hold off building it as there are some minor mods that you will need to do.
/mike
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Looks Great!
RJ
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Great Job!
-Paul
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Looks Good
Bill
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This thing is going to be awesome!
-
It's not the prettiest thing, but it's functional. :)
We're still testing. I've only found one minor issue that we hope to resolve with only a different part.
-
<pop..
-
Went back and watched the last video and looked at the prototype - Am I missing the 10x (Multiplier) button?
Harrison
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Yes, the 10x multiplier is controlled based on encoder speed. You have to turn the knob a certain speed to get the multiplier to kick in.
-
Yes, the 10x multiplier is controlled based on encoder speed. You have to turn the knob a certain speed to get the multiplier to kick in.
Now that is COOL!!!! >.d9 <;d
Harrison
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Dave - Any recent update / teaser?
Harrison
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Harrison,
We're very close to contacting the coop managers. Just need to make sure we have a few more builds under our belt and plenty of testing. So far, it's looking good for a release very soon.
I've been using mine to test my new LE's and SSR4's as I build them. It's just so easy to fire it up and send some DMX to the controllers on the workbench. Wired or wirelessly, it's way easier than having to putz around with Vixen or other software on the computer for testing the equipment. It's also getting used quite heavily in my development work on the servo controller. I've personally gotten a LOT of use out of it so far. Functionally, it worked almost perfectly right from the start. There's only one capacitor upgrade that's needed in the BOM (alleviates a voltage sag which caused the PIC to reset when switching on the Ex/Rx from wired mode). Other than that it's been rock-solid. The batteries are lasting forever as advertised. It's not the prettiest or the most ergonomic packaging, but it's not bad either. I'm quite happy with it.
Maybe Mike and Charles will chime in on their experiences so far as well.
Cheers,
Dave
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Dave,
That is AWSOME!!!! And Thank you for sharing – I can imagine the use you are getting out of it – I know it is an item I could of used last year and even this weekend while building an LE would be nice. Of course I know I won’t be happy with just one – so you can go a head and mark me down for 2 – 1 to live on my work bench and 1 to use around.
Harrison
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I still want one of these.... <pop..
-
I still want one of these.... <pop..
Don't we all ;D
-
I still want one of these.... <pop..
Just one (1) .... I want 2 ... and maybe a 3rd PCB & case.
Harrison
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Dlhope should give the final word, but the tester is working both in the wireless and wired mode. For wireless you will need a modified EX/RX, so you might want to get an additional PCB from RJ. The Tester build is easy and straight-forward. It should not take anyone more than about 1 hour 30 minutes and an experienced user probably 30 to 45 minutes. The modified EX/RX should not take more than 30 minutes for a novice and maybe 15 minutes for an experienced builder.
I'm sure that when Dave is ready to release it, he will be in contact with RJ and the COOP managers to get the COOP running. Once the COOP is over and if there is anyone needing a tester (built) I will have a few available, since I have built 2 and will have to build a third one for the final build video.
I am posting this just to make sure everybody knows that this is not vaporware and it is actually in its final stages before being COOP'd.
<yk..
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Dlhope should give the final word, but the tester is working both in the wireless and wired mode. For wireless you will need a modified EX/RX, so you might want to get an additional PCB from RJ. The Tester build is easy and straight-forward. It should not take anyone more than about 1 hour 30 minutes and an experienced user probably 30 to 45 minutes. The modified EX/RX should not take more than 30 minutes for a novice and maybe 15 minutes for an experienced builder.
I'm sure that when Dave is ready to release it, he will be in contact with RJ and the COOP managers to get the COOP running. Once the COOP is over and if there is anyone needing a tester (built) I will have a few available, since I have built 2 and will have to build a third one for the final build video.
I am posting this just to make sure everybody knows that this is not vaporware and it is actually in its final stages before being COOP'd.
<yk..
This is GREAT news and THANK YOU for the update - Also THANK YOU to all the beta testers!!!!
Harrison
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I'm still trying to come up for air from a crazy work schedule. A huge project is coming to fruition and it's taking a large amount of my time.
I'm going to try and do a final test build of the tester in the next week or so before I contact the coop managers. This could have been done sooner if I hadn't been swamped with work. Sorry all. It's coming, please have patience.
Dave
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crazy work schedule, it's taking a large amount of my time.
I think we need to find that SOB that makes us all work and kick his butt, don't he know we got Blinky to do, ain't got time for this workin sh_t
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crazy work schedule, it's taking a large amount of my time.
I think we need to find that SOB that makes us all work and kick his butt, don't he know we got Blinky to do, ain't got time for this workin sh_t
I agree - I wish I had one of these for this weekend LSH Academy be a nice unit for teaching and doing demos.
Harrison
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Don't worry, I've given some thought to taking out my boss. lol
I'm just now reaching out to the other project team members to try and get this thing released before we get too much closer to the holiday season.
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I'd like to get a few more test builds done.
Is there anyone who would like to build one for yourself? I have a few PCBs available as well as a couple of cases that I will contribute. The BOM is on Mouser's website (I will get the link for that).
Let me know,
Dave
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I'm in, PM sent,
Bill
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Ok, I have 4 boards available.
Bill, mokeefe, JDM1oc and dmaccole, please PM your mailing addresses. I only have two extra cases, so I will choose at random who gets them.
There may be more boards available for test builds. Mike and/or Charles should chime in to indicate how many they have to contribute.
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Fellas, Don't forget that if you want to build the wireless option, you'll need an Ex/Rx PCB.
Feel free to post any questions here or via PM/email if you need any details.
Dave
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I might be in. How much does it cost?
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I'd like to get a few more test builds done.
Is there anyone who would like to build one for yourself? I have a few PCBs available as well as a couple of cases that I will contribute. The BOM is on Mouser's website (I will get the link for that).
Let me know,
Dave
Dave,
I'd be happy to do a test build.
-Paul
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I might be in. How much does it cost?
For a single-unit, you're looking at $33 to cover the Mouser parts (not including PCB). That doesn't include the wireless Tx.
For a single-unit wireless Tx add-on, the Mouser parts will run you $14.36 (not including PCB).
I appreciate the willingness of those who are joining in as beta-testers at the higher costs. For the functionality, it's still a good bang for the buck. Not to mention the service you're providing to the rest of the DIY community.
When we get to the point of handing this over to coop managers, the price will come down quite a bit based on volume.
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Dave,
I'd be happy to do a test build.
-Paul
Paul,
Keep an eye on this thread for prototype PCB availability.
Thanks,
Dave
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Here are the BOMs:
See first post of this thread for BOM links.
If anyone is looking to build a "wired only" version of the tester, there are some savings that can be had by eliminating a few parts from the Main Tester Component BOM. Although you're only looking at a 2-3 dollar savings. It really doesn't make sense to do that. Building it as designed allows for instant plug-n-play wireless by just adding the Tx (modified Ex/Rx).
I will work on a modified BOM for that if needed.
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I went through my stash of boards; I have three of the current revision, and 9 of the previous version, Those 9 will need to have two resistors soldered on to the back of the board; it's an easy fix (that's why there was a second rev :-). The BOM is the same for both.
PM me if you are interested.
/mike
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And here's the wired-only BOM: (link removed)
Not worth the hassle in my opinion to save less than $3.
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I went through my stash of boards; I have three of the current revision, and 9 of the previous version, Those 9 will need to have two resistors soldered on to the back of the board; it's an easy fix (that's why there was a second rev :-). The BOM is the same for both.
PM me if you are interested.
/mike
I too have 4 of the Rev 1 boards. I was not going to let them out, but Mike makes a good point that the work-around is a simple one. When Mike's boards are exhausted, PM me for the ones I have.
Remember this is a testing phase and not a coop. We are only providing the remaining prototype PCBs for testing as well as information and firmware for the PICs. You are on your own for Mouser purchases.
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Well I'm in for beta testing. I have some boards around here somewhere. I'll double check on Sat. to be sure.
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I might be in. How much does it cost?
For a single-unit, you're looking at $33 to cover the Mouser parts (not including PCB). That doesn't include the wireless Tx.
For a single-unit wireless Tx add-on, the Mouser parts will run you $14.36 (not including PCB).
I appreciate the willingness of those who are joining in as beta-testers at the higher costs. For the functionality, it's still a good bang for the buck. Not to mention the service you're providing to the rest of the DIY community.
When we get to the point of handing this over to coop managers, the price will come down quite a bit based on volume.
I mean i would be testing it with wireless and wired; as well as, runing dmx commercial lighting i built myself.
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I'm interested in assisting, but I am not yet Lynx wireless.
If I signed up, could you include the needed wireless PCBs needed to participate?
Thanks,
Steve
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I'm interested in assisting, but I am not yet Lynx wireless.
If I signed up, could you include the needed wireless PCBs needed to participate?
Thanks,
Steve
I do not have any extra Ex/Rx PCBs to offer. You might try checking with RJ on that.
You can use the tester in wired mode with no problem. It has the RJ45 jack for that purpose. Wireless is not mandatory.
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If I have multiple dongles (networks) I'd only be able to test the network where I had my wireless Tx attached, or the network where I plugged the cat5 into... right?
I've got a lot to read up on regarding the DLA wireless solution.
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I will check tomorrow to see how many boards I have. I think I have about 3 or 4 boards left. I will post tomorrow with the list.
Dave send me a list of people that would get the boards I have. I will send them in the order you put them.
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I guess I should formally request one. :)
Thanks!
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If I have multiple dongles (networks) I'd only be able to test the network where I had my wireless Tx attached, or the network where I plugged the cat5 into... right?
I've got a lot to read up on regarding the DLA wireless solution.
For wireless, the tester has a universe selector (universes 1,2,3). For wired, simply disconnect the cable from your dongle and plug in the tester. One of the important points about making this device portable is it allows you to go outside and plug it directly into your controllers with a short cord. Or for wireless mode, turn off your normal transmitter and walk around the yard completely wireless and test the different channels (or all channels at once) on any of the three universes.
This device is also excellent for bench testing new builds as well. Or even physical animation projects with the new servo controller. Tons of uses.
Might be a good idea to spend a little time reading through this thread. All the features are sprinkled throughout. I will make an effort very soon to list the features and the different ways this can be used depending on your layout.
Dave
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Will do! Thanks.
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All parts/PCBs I'm providing will be in the mail tomorrow.
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I sent you the money n1ist.
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I sent you the money n1ist.
Please use PM/email for that.
Thanks.
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I was just informed that the transceiver for the Ex/Rx is back-ordered at Mouser. Bummer. You might try some other vendors if you don't want to wait for it.
http://octopart.com/mrf24j40ma-i%2Frm-microchip-8312712
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so many people ordering them i guess.
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The enclosure is also back-ordered, but looks like they're only 1 week out.
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OK, just to make sure everyone is clear on the status of this project. We are involving some volunteers for beta testing. This is not a coop. As soon as we're done with our testing phase, then we'll approach the coop managers to get this thing officially released. Please check back for updates. We should start seeing feedback from the testers before too long.
Thanks for your patience,
Dave
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Looks like the transceiver wont be available till 11/11/2011. So i ordered from somewhere else, paid 2 dollars more, but i dont wanna wait for mouser to get them in.
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holland,
Can you share where you got it? Others might want to know for their test efforts as well.
Thanks!
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Yes that would be nice to know. I've already ordered it from Mouser but wonder if I can cancel it and order elsewhere.
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I went to the http://octopart.com/mrf24j40ma-i%2Frm-microchip-8312712 as posted and ordered from
http://avnetexpress.avnet.com/store/em/EMController?langId=-1&storeId=500201&catalogId=500201&term=MRF24J40MA%252DI%252FRM&x=12&y=10&N=0&Ne=100000&action=products
Which i bought 2, and they only have 4 in stock. so that leaves 2 available.
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No one seems to have them in stock hardly.
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FYI,
I made a change to the BOM to fix a couple of things. (BOM links are on first post of this thread)
The first change is a swap of RJ45 side-entry jack for a different brand. The one that was there originally does not come out flush with the case. I replaced it with the same one that I prototyped with and it's a much nicer fit. It's worth the extra few pennies.
The second change is a replacement of the RS485 chip. The original one is not compatible with a 3.3v bus. My apologies. We were trying to save costs, but didn't realize this chip was not as tolerant of the lower voltage. I prototyped successfully with the ST485BN and am still using it without any issues. So I changed the BOM to include that one instead. There are however other alternatives that are designed for 3.3v. However the cost is higher (a little more than double for the cheapest one). Feel free to substitute a 3.3v version (SN75HVD12P) if you like. Although I have a proven track record with the ST485BN. I have no problem recommending that one as the BOM update will show.
For you beta testers that have already place your orders, you can swap the 485 chip from the previous BOM with one from one of your controllers. The Lynx controllers all supply 5v to the 485 chips, so this one will happily live there. You can then put the one from the controller into the tester (assuming it's the ST485BN).
Cheers,
Dave
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A huge Thanks to Dave for helping to get this tester working. I was having trouble with the wired side of it in that it didn't work, but the wireless did. We changed out the RS485 chip, and immediately the wired side started working. I offer a few tips I hope will help future builders,
1) As the tester starts up on channel 256, the 1/2 way point by design, I recommend for a first time startup to set your controller to start address 256 so you know immediately after you turn it on in wired mode if the tester is working.
2) The wireless takes about 1 to 3 seconds before the LE "sees it".
3) If the tester is shut off in wireless mode, the DMX light on the LE goes out, but the DMX light on the LE mounted EX/RX just freezes.
4) The build video has you solder the EX/RX PIC directly on the board, you can use the socket, it comes in the BOM, and there is enough room to install it.
5) I recommend using the RC Servo wires that RJ had us use for the Aether, according to Dave they will carry enough current. Cut the wire like we did in the Aether (connecting the 2 ends of the connector, and cutting the wire in half), then solder the wire to the PCB, and battery box connectors, then you have a way of disconnecting the battery side of the case from the PCB in case you need to troubleshoot the board. (Guess how I figured that one out?)
6) When marking the case for the cutouts, I recommend mounting the PCB in the case (careful about orientation, it should be opposite of the battery box) and using a pin or needle, push them through the holes in the circuit board for the display, 2 switches, and the rotary encoder, which will mark the case. Then remove the PCB, use a #60 and #70 drill bit to put holes in the case. Then mount those parts in the correct orientation on the outside of the case, and scribe the shape on the case (I used a razor blade, be careful if you do), then remove the parts. You now have an outline to cut out that is very close to the correct size needed. Trim to fit.
7) Talking of marking the case, I also recommend mounting the PCB in the case before building the board and using a scribe or razor blade, mark the inside of the case (at the PCB level) for the cat 5 connector, this will keep you from cutting too deep in the case for the connector. The bottom side is a hit or miss as to depth, trim it shallow, and keep trimming until it fits.
8 ) The switches are open to the top of the case, which leaves them vulnerable to dust, dirt, and liquid contamination, so I took a heavy duty ziplock bag and cut a "cover" for the switches, see photo. I cut the pieces large enough so that when moving the switches the bag was still able to cover the entire switch and the hole in the case. Then use a razor blade or exacto knife and trim out a rectangle that will allow the bag to be a tight fit over the switch, slide the bag over the switch and you're done. Home made contamination resistant switch.
I had the wireless working yesterday, it is awesome and will make checking your setup so much easier, you will now be able to control each individual channel, and verify correct placement of each item. I've got a lot of testing yet to do, but if this first phase is any indication, Dave, Mike, and Charles have made a fantastic tool to help each of us make setup much easier. I Thank them for allowing me to participate in such a cool project, Thanks again,
Bill
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Bill,
Thanks for participating. Really appreciate the feedback.
Excellent idea for doing the case cut-outs by the way. Wish I thought of that when I did mine.
Dave
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Got my part today and will start assembly here soon. The case is on backorder and now I have to worry about the chip issue. One step at a time though. :)
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Got my part today and will start assembly here soon. The case is on backorder and now I have to worry about the chip issue. One step at a time though. :)
Dean, as I mentioned, you can swap the 485 from one of your controllers for the time being. The one from the tester BOM works fine in the controllers. The ST485BN that RJ specifies in all the controllers that use wired DMX IS compatible with the tester. The only difference is their tolerance to run at lower voltages (the tester runs it at 3.3v rather than 5v like the controllers).
Again, my apologies.
Keep us posted.
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Got my part today and will start assembly here soon. The case is on backorder and now I have to worry about the chip issue. One step at a time though. :)
Dean, as I mentioned, you can swap the 485 from one of your controllers for the time being. The one from the tester BOM works fine in the controllers. The ST485BN that RJ specifies in all the controllers that use wired DMX IS compatible with the tester. The only difference is their tolerance to run at lower voltages (the tester runs it at 3.3v rather than 5v like the controllers).
Again, my apologies.
Keep us posted.
Oh yes I read that.. And that's what I'll be doing. I'm starting the build now so we shall see how it all goes.. :) Since I have two boards the second build will be in the next couple of weeks just to give some time for other testers to build too and go from there. :)
Dean
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[/quote]
Oh yes I read that.. And that's what I'll be doing. I'm starting the build now so we shall see how it all goes.. :) Since I have two boards the second build will be in the next couple of weeks just to give some time for other testers to build too and go from there. :)
Dean
[/quote]
Awesome! Thanks a bunch for stepping up to do this!
Let me know if you need anything.
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FYI for any of you beta testers that were given Rev1 boards. There is a mod that needs to be done to add two resistors to the control side of the board. The two resistors needed are part of the BOM.
Oh, by the way, the symptoms associated with not having these resistors in place is that it will not send DMX out via the RJ45 jack when there's no Ex/Rx installed. So it's only an issue without the wireless option.
I've posted a photo that shows how to identify the Rev1 board as well as the mod. Rev2 boards do not required this mod.
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I held back my own Rev1 boards because I was more interested in beta testing with the latest version (Rev2) only. However, the difference is so minor (the two resistors) that we felt it was worth letting the Rev1's out to get more units into the tester's hands. We only had a small number of prototypes. There are no fundamental design differences that will cause any problems with our beta test efforts. Only a slight difference in the build.
With that in mind, I've decided to release the few Rev1 boards that I have left to any additional members who would like to contribute to the beta test activities on this project. I have 3 available and I'd like them to go to folks who are not already participating in this beta test effort.
Please PM me if you're interested.
Dave
P.S. We're looking for members who can build and test sooner than later. Trying to get this released to coop managers as soon as we can.
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How do i know which is rev 1 ? I have 2 boards and they are different from the other.
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How do i know which is rev 1 ? I have 2 boards and they are different from the other.
Look at the second picture in post #208. If it looks like that, it's Rev1. Otherwise it's Rev2.
There's a lot of good info in this thread. I know it's spread out a bit, but worth the time to back-track a little and read. At least until we get the wiki entries up and running.
You should have gotten information as to how to identify them and what mod is required for Rev1. So I'm trying to alleviate that problem with all my posts from the last day or two.
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Ok so it looks like if it has the resistor holes, its rev 2 correct?
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An easier way to tell... Look next to the PIC. If there are places for 4 resistors (3 1k5 and one 4k7) then it is a rev 2 board. If there are only three resistors (3 1k5) then it is a rev 1 board and needs the modification.
/mike
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Yea ill build the rev 2 then. The rev 2 board is also square, where the rev 1 board hs that addition on the top of it. So i have a spare rev 1 board now.
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Yea ill build the rev 2 then. The rev 2 board is also square, where the rev 1 board hs that addition on the top of it. So i have a spare rev 1 board now.
Good choice! :)
Thanks!
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I'm getting ready to build this - what are you using to connect the exrx board to the tester? The Mouser BOM did not include the 4 pin headers or sockets normally used for this. I'm pretty sure I have some around, but since space is a premium I am wondering what you guys have done.
Thanks!
Josh
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I used the regular EX/RX header stuff, it works great.
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I used the regular EX/RX header stuff, it works great.
Awesome. Thanks! I can't wait to get this built and test it out.
Josh
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Yep, that is correct. I have updated the BOM. Thanks for bringing it to my attention.
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I completed my build of the tester, these are my initial thoughts:
Build- The build was easy and straightforward. I would change the 0.1uf caps on the wireless BOM to the inline style like those on the regular EX/RX BOM. I used the socket for the pic on the EX/RX but it is a really tight fit, almost too tight when the case is assembled. I followed Bill’s lead and soldered the ICSP header on the rear of the EX/RX board and found that to work well.
Case- the case is a good size and functional, I hope that when this is cooped we’ll be able to get the cases machined. Mine is the definition of “hack job†:D
Testing- The tester functioned great right off the bat. I plugged it in place of a dmx lighting board and it functioned very well. I then tested it with two expresses both wired and wireless and it worked flawlessly. I was able to get about 150 feet away line of sight from the expresses and still control them, any further and it had some lag. 50 feet without light of sight was very usable. The encoding wheel is slick and functions great, but it does feel a bit flimsy. Overall this thing is awesome and will be a real benefit to this community.
Thank you to everyone who participated in the development of this device, it is a valuable tool. <res.
Thanks for giving me the opportunity to contribute to this community in a small way by helping test this device.
Josh
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Now if there was just a pixel net version. Another challenge to you guys. I was looking forward to this until I realized I would getting my DMX via the SS Hub although I will probably just go from the hub to a wireless TX so I guess I would be ok for those elements that are still DMX.
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I would change the 0.1uf caps on the wireless BOM to the inline style like those on the regular EX/RX BOM.
I forgot to mention that I did install those inline style caps on the EX/RX board, they work fine. (The benefit of RJ using the same parts on most of his designs)
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Nothing wrong with having consistency in parts between devices. Thanks for the feedback. I will update the BOM first chance I get.
Regarding the encoder, there are higher quality alternatives, but at substantially higher costs. I have quite a bit of use on mine and it's holding up well. So that's a tough call at this point. We can always retro fit something different down the road if this one doesn't hold up.
Again, thanks for the feedback. Exactly the kind of stuff I want to hear.
Dave
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Well i got the dmx programed and able to run through all of the functions, but i have no output. The SN74HC125NE4 chip had pins bent on it when i got it, tried to straighten them out, but if you dont get them just right that may be my problem. So ill have to order another one of them.
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Do you have a version 1 or version 2 board? If it is a version 1 board (3 resistors next to the PIC), did you add the two 4.7k resistors? The attached picture shows an easy way to do this if your resistors fit between the socket pins.
If you think the '125 is damaged, try removing it and jumpering between pins 11 and 12. That will bypass it, but the board will only work in wired mode then.
/mike
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Ok ill try that, well i might only use wired anyways, or i might go wireless i dunno yet.
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Do you have a version 1 or version 2 board? If it is a version 1 board (3 resistors next to the PIC), did you add the two 4.7k resistors? The attached picture shows an easy way to do this if your resistors fit between the socket pins.
If you think the '125 is damaged, try removing it and jumpering between pins 11 and 12. That will bypass it, but the board will only work in wired mode then.
/mike
I have a ver 2. It has 4 resistors next to the pic.
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Well i put a jumper between pins 11 and 12 and it works now. I just need to order another chip i guess now.
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Have the board in the case now. And have a wireless board in the back, just no parts on it yet. Still have to wait to get the antenna unit anyways. But its working just fine as a wired tester.
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There are a few things that have been brought up by those testing. I just wanted to point them out so others will know about them. These are things that I've been able to reproduce and explain.
1. When changing universes while powered on, the previously selected universe is still active.
Explanation: This is the designed behavior of the Ex/Rx. The universe change will not take effect until the Ex/Rx is powered off and back on again. The universe selection occurs during the Ex/Rx boot sequence.
Solution: When changing the universe setting on the DMX Tester, you must cycle the power off and back on again to the get the Ex/Rx to detect the new universe setting.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2. When testing with the LE and setting it to wired while leaving the Ex/Rx in place, the data light shows DMX is being received, but no light output occurs.
Explanation: This is an LE issue. The same thing happens with any DMX source (dongle, DMX Tester, etc.). I have no idea if this issue is already known with the LE. In any case it's not a DMX Tester related issue.
Solution: If you're changing connectivity from wireless to wired, you'll have to remove the Ex/Rx from the LE. I can see where someone may want to use a cat-5 cable in a wireless environment to do some trouble-shooting using the tester. However, you'll just have to remember to pull the Ex/Rx in addition to putting the "Remove for wireless" jumper in place to interact with the LE in wired mode.
Update: This is confirmed by RJ as normal operation for the LE and has been posted a number of times throughout the forums. When using the LE in wired mode, the Ex/Rx MUST be removed.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
3. When pressing the "Mode" button on the LE with a high starting channel value while DMX data is flowing (either wired or wirelessly), the LE will lock up. Sometimes light output will continue, sometimes not. In all cases, the LE will not respond to the "Mode" button any more. This requires the power to be cycled on the LE to clear the lockup.
Explanation: I'm guessing this is some kind of DMX frame timing issue on the LE when a high starting address is set. I can re-create this using the dongle with Vixen as well. The problem only shows when using high start addresses (anywhere from about 380 and up). So this appears to be an LE issue only.
Solution: Regardless of your DMX data source, disconnect or pause the DMX data stream when using the "Mode" button where the LE has a high start address, or if you're setting it to a high start address.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I will pass on any LE related issues we find to RJ. I can't speak for him, but I'm guessing these things won't be on any high-priority list since they're very obscure problems. If they were causing issues for everyone, they'd have been fixed a long time ago.
Testers, keep up the good work! I'm impressed that people are finding such things. That tells me you're working hard to find flaws. Excellent!
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Hi Dave,
I was wondering if we can use an older v1.2 ex/rx? I have a couple that I wanted to use with the tester.
Thanks,
-Paul
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Yes, that should be fine. We don't use the LEDs anyway for this purpose.
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Are there any approved coop managers that would be interested in running a coop for this device?
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I don't know if I'm approved or not but I would give it a shot.
-Paul
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Please check out this template and let me know if it works. It seems to for me.
BTW, the build went great. A couple of gotchas but they were self-inflicted.
-Paul
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...turned the template into a label to cover the self-inflicted wounds... <fp.
-Paul
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What do you use to open a php file?
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What do you use to open a php file?
Holland Lights if you are using firefox 8 change the name of the file to the file you downloaded with that extension to open it properly.
See my post here:
http://diylightanimation.com/index.php?topic=6529.0 (http://diylightanimation.com/index.php?topic=6529.0)
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ok it worked. Who would of known to do that. Now how do you get the neat graphics that are on the tester in the picture?
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...turned the template into a label to cover the self-inflicted wounds... <fp.
-Paul
Paul,
Very cool!
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You can use a vinyl cutter for a dremel tool and it would make the job alot easier to accomplish.I already have had my holes cut out for awhile now. Only thing is i didnt realise it; but i cut the hole around the led display just a 16thth of a inch to much.
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ok it worked. Who would of known to do that. Now how do you get the neat graphics that are on the tester in the picture?
I've got to say that i cheated a little bit. I added some random graphics I found on the net to the CAD program used to create the original template.
As you can see, I saved the cad file as a pdf to make it easier for others to keep the correct dimensions when they printed it out..
I was hoping that someone knew how to add graphics to the pdf to use it as a label.
I can post the cad file but I would rather someone figure out how to add the graphics to the pdf.
-Paul
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...turned the template into a label to cover the self-inflicted wounds... <fp.
-Paul
Paul,
Very cool!
WRONG.
What's cool is the tester - love it, VERY handy, great job.
Thanks for putting all the work into this - that includes all the people that have contributed in some way!
-Paul
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I was hoping that someone knew how to add graphics to the pdf to use it as a label.
I can post the cad file but I would rather someone figure out how to add the graphics to the pdf.
-Paul
I can take care of the graphics end if you want. PM me or upload files here and I can do the rest.
-Aaron
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I was hoping that someone knew how to add graphics to the pdf to use it as a label.
I can post the cad file but I would rather someone figure out how to add the graphics to the pdf.
-Paul
I can take care of the graphics end if you want. PM me or upload files here and I can do the rest.
-Aaron
Hi Aaron,
Is there a certain program you use to incorporate the graphics?
-Paul
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I was hoping that someone knew how to add graphics to the pdf to use it as a label.
I can post the cad file but I would rather someone figure out how to add the graphics to the pdf.
-Paul
I can take care of the graphics end if you want. PM me or upload files here and I can do the rest.
-Aaron
Hi Aaron,
Is there a certain program you use to incorporate the graphics?
-Paul
Illustrator would be my first choice. It would depend on how well the CAD file plays with others.
-Aaron
---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=37.758362,-89.150223
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Just as a quick search, Adobe says that Acrobat Pro 9 will convert DWG files to PDF, in addition to some free programs available on the net.
I have Adobe Master Collection CS4 in case you guys need help to convert it.
Brian
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This is why I want to try to find something that will take a base pdf (as opposed to a dxf/dwg) and add graphics to it.
-Paul
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At a quick glance, I think this will do what I had in mind.
http://www.foxitsoftware.com/
-Paul
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Since we're playing around with graphics, I thought I'd putz around with Cindi's vinyl cutter and see what happens. I'm not much of an artist, but I bet this would produce a nice result in the hands of someone more creative.
Dave
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Well, some personal issues finally cleared enough for me to put together my beta board (V2) of the DMX Tester.
The build went very smoothly. Anyone who has put together something like the Lynx Dongle will have no problems with this build. I basically followed the the same steps that were used in the build video although I think it would have been almost as easy to do even without the video. The only parts that confused me slightly were the the 3 capacitors that went into areas on the board with 3 holes instead of 2. I installed them the way the build video showed. I would recommend that a build manual clearly explain how to install those 3 caps once this is available via coop. I did substitute in a ST485BN chip as has been previously discussed in this thread. I have not cut holes in the case yet for mounting so I did all my testing without the case.
As a beta tester I always hope to find issues I can report back, but in this case "it just works". I ran through tests on one of my LE's and was unable to find a problem testing the channels, values, and features like "pulse".
I didn't have a chance to install the wireless option on the board yet, but I may get to that this weekend.
This is clearly a tool that many DLA members will want to have for both troubleshooting and testing components of your display. Kudos to David and his team.
-Mike
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Mike,
I have covered the 3-hole capacitor issue among other things in the manual. See the wiki under "DMX Devices".
Please note that the photos in the manual are not final. I'm still hoping to get a better sequence of photos. They will be changed soon.
Dave
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Thanks Dave,
I didn't even realize there was a build manual done yet. Just goes to show how easy this unit is to build even without a manual. I have photos I shot during my build that I will pass onto you.
-Mike
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An update on 3-hole cap locations...
We're going to go with 2-hole to eliminate any possible confusion. It's very low-risk change to the PCB. The manual will be updated accordingly.
Dave
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The build photos in the manual just got a whole lot better.
A big thank you to mokeefe!
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Just a quick followup to my earlier beta test post.
I built the modified EX/RX board and attached it to the DMX Tester. It performed flawlessly with one of my LE's setup with wireless. I didn't try it at any significant distance, but within the same room it worked fine.
-Mike
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This is why I want to try to find something that will take a base pdf (as opposed to a dxf/dwg) and add graphics to it.
-Paul
Any new developments on this? It would be very cool to post a collection of these in the wiki for download.
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The COOP for the servo boards and DMX testers has begun. You can find it
here (http://diylightanimation.com/index.php?topic=6684.0)
/mike
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Will the case being offered in the coop already be machined with the proper cutouts?
-Mike
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I believe Mike is looking into that. However, it may not be cost effective. Not sure yet.
If we don't go that way, there has been some templates posted earlier in this thread that will help in cutting them yourself.
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Yeah, I know about the templates. It's just hard (for me, anyway) to make the cutouts even close to the quality of a machined piece. If it's too expensive or time consuming we can live with the manual cutouts.
-Mike
I believe Mike is looking into that. However, it may not be cost effective. Not sure yet.
If we don't go that way, there has been some templates posted earlier in this thread that will help in cutting them yourself.
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Unfortunately, Serpac has a $300 tooling charge; in quantity 50, the machined cases would have been $20 each; I can get the cases for under $5 from Mouser
/mike
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Now that this device has been released and is currently in coop, please use the new dedicated discussion board for any further questions and topics.
http://diylightanimation.com/index.php?board=45.0
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Mike,
Any plans on looking into a Pixel Net version? I know it couldn't be done on this one due to limitation on the display charters (3) for DMX 512 limit.
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I don't know if they are wired, but there are three decimal points that could be used to give you a binary representation of which of the eight E1.31 blocks you are in.