DiyLightAnimation
Hardware => Lynx Smart String => Topic started by: tng5737 on May 20, 2011,
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I have completed my first CoroFlake using the Smart String Metal-Backed squares. It is being driven by a TH2010 controller and is NOT sequenced by LSP or Vixen since don't have my SSCs or hubs yet. The flake has five legs containing 9 squares each. (45 total). Originally I was going to make it one string of 45 but the Whites were off-color after abt 26 nodes due to the voltage drop. I re-wired it so that each leg has its power tied back to the power supply. Only the data line runs continuously through-out the 45 nodes.
Here is a video a made of some of the rtns the TH2010 had applied tothe CoroFlake. Actually the flake is sideways in the video with the bottom being to the right of the screen. I had to do this in order to get it all in the frame. The camera I used is a Kodak Zi8.
http://vimeo.com/24030000
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That is absolutely awesome!
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Looks great what controller did you use? Also which LEDS?
Mike
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I'm not sure, but I may have already posted these details -
Here are the instructions for my wiring - refer to the photo.
There are 9 square modules in each leg. I spliced lengths of wire to better center the squares into each 'petal' (don't know what else to call them).
Here is the layout (refer to picture):
1) Between squares 1,2,3,4 -normal spacing
2) Between squares 4,5,6,7,8,9 - add a 10" length of wire (could probably shorten, but I wanted plenty of room)
3) After square 9 - Take 20" of wire and attach it to square one of the next leg.
4) (see arrow) - Separate the red, blue and green wires.
5) Connect the other end of the GREEN wire to sq 9. ONLY the GREEN data wire connects between sq 9 and sq 1 of the next leg.
6) the Red (V+) and Blue (Gnd) wires are tied back to the power supply
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That is truly awesome!!
I just got two of the coroflakes the other day. This weekend I am planning on building them depending on the honey-do list.
I plan to use the rectangle modules. I suppose that I could follow your plan there's not much difference except the shape of the modules.
Great JOB!!!!!!!
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Really Nice Job!
RJ
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Really real nice job! I want to do this on my 2nd floor roof. Thank you for sharing.
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It does look really cool. Might have to invest in some of those. Although not sure where I would put them. There isn't a lot of unobstructed view of my house, with the trees out front.
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Time to trim the trees. I trimmed two right above the ground. lol
Of course here in NM we hit a -9 degrees which has never happened in recorded history and they died. we usually never get below 25 degrees and that is only for a few hours.
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Thank you for sharing, looks great. So many great things smart strings can do.
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Thank you for posting the CoroFlake video.
It reaffirms that there is no reason to put further resources into the pre-smart string ways of doing things (the vintage look of incandescent pre-RGB Christmas lights will always be appealing).
I hope Light Show Pro delivers the software to simplify this approach.
Rbar
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Was the voltage drop a problem after 26 modules for colors other than white? I've noticed power use of white can be 2+ times that of other colors. I wonder if the extra 10" lengths of wire made the voltage drop worse (quicker)? Nice job, looks great ,good job dealing with some technical issues!
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I am thinking there will be a run on Coroflakes pretty soon. Looks great. You are making me rethink what I want to do with my SSC and hubs. Think I'll go putter in the garage and think it over for a while. Thanks for sharing the video.
Steve
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The color white was definitely the worst. I would say that ANY hue which was predominately white would also be noticeable - but you probably wouldn't use those in a lighting display - like a light pineapple color. The darker reds, blues and greens you won't really notice it.
I first noticed this BEFORE I modified the strings but was going to let the issue "slide" but a couple of people remarked on the pinkish tint! I DID try two different sets of lights with similar results though. All I can say is to try your lights out first maybe you'll have better results! I had to cut them to fit the flake anyway so just bringing the power back for each leg was not much of an issue for this layout. I think that the 100 limit mentioned in the wiki probably speaks more the the current issue of the wire and controllers than it does about color correctness. I definitely wouldn't plan on using 100 of these on one string though without some power injection.
I took a photo of some un-modified strings - had to cover the lights with paper towel to decrease the light for the camera. What you are seeing the the first few nodes and the last few nodes. In this case I had 56 nodes (two strings of 20 nodes and a partial string).
Here are some voltage readings"
@Power Supply = 12.11v
@20th node output = 10.19v
@40th node output = 9.31v
@56th node output = 9.13v
Total current draw 1.67 amps
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what power supply did you use to power these?
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I have a 12v 2amp brick.
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I have used a 2A brink on a lot of plastic rectangles without the last nodes flaking out. hmmm...
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My next project will use the rectangles, but I'll only use 17 or 18 per string on those. I haven't started working on THOSE yet!
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The Squares take a lot of current compared to the strings and rectangles. You can run alot more of the nodes and also of the rectangles.
RJ
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Why would the squares take more, aren't they just the same as the rectangles, just laid out differently?
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the led's "look" the same on both, but some of the resistors are the same, some are different, and there aren't the same number of components on board (at least the visable side)
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Nope they run higher current. Not sure why they made them different but they pull alot more current. And if you buy the new 4 led ones! well they are even more current.
RJ
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Man I am glad I bought 200 rectangles and only 20 square.
Ron
added......
Now I hear it is the other way around. I did buy the high current ones. Oh well..... I have no doubt they will look awesome in my show.
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why is that, the rectangles are the ones that use more power
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Ok maybe my mind is going to goo! I was thinking it was the Sq that took more. <fp.
RJ
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CRS occurs in old peole sooner ;D
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Now let me ask a quesiton here.
With the SSC that we will be getting very soon (Thanks Bill and family!) I would assume we would also have to inject some sort of power into the lines as well, if we want the pure white color (not the pineapple white he called it haha). Now obviously that isn't going to cause any issues with the SSCs...correct?
I just ordered the flakes today and want to have an impressive looking flake like tng did. Plus, because they are snowflakes, I would really like them to be as white as possible.
Greg
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Pardon the interruption
But everytime I see this post I read it as Cornflakes <fp.
back to the regular schedule program
Rick R.
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Now let me ask a quesiton here.
With the SSC that we will be getting very soon (Thanks Bill and family!) I would assume we would also have to inject some sort of power into the lines as well, if we want the pure white color (not the pineapple white he called it haha). Now obviously that isn't going to cause any issues with the SSCs...correct?
I just ordered the flakes today and want to have an impressive looking flake like tng did. Plus, because they are snowflakes, I would really like them to be as white as possible.
Greg
Greg -
I am behind on updating the posted assembly manual to include the information provided by Charles for pixels. I'll forward you his email with instructions.
Thanks,
David
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Am I safe to assume that the 4 LED "SQUARES" are bright than the pixels? That is my instinct...just not sure :)
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They seem brighter (than nodes) to me. Both the 3 and 4 LED RGB modules ... are all quite bright. But they will be diffused behind the coro.