DiyLightAnimation
Hardware => Lynx Smart String => Topic started by: Penfold on July 17, 2012,
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I went over to Home Depot and bought some Schedule 40 1" PVC pipe and caps. Last night I was going to start housing the SSCv2 that I got from the COOP and I realized that the PCB will not fit in the pipe either because it is Sch 40 or v2 is a little wider.
Was I supposed to go with Sch 40?
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No schedule 40 is too thick. You need the thinner walled pipe. There is a link in the wiki. I think it is 200 psi. Or just take a ssc with you.
Sent from my Thunderbolt using Tapatalk 2.
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Schedule 20 PVC is what I used and it works just fine.
Pete
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1" Thin wall 200PSI PVC.
Lowes calls it 'Charlotte Pipe 1-in x 10-ft 200 PSI PVC Pressure Pipe'. I'ts best to take a pcb into the store and verify.
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The HD near me does not carry schedule 20/ thin wall PVC.... but the Loew's across the street does!!!
I used 1" thin wall for my SCCs.
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Know I don't feel to bad, I also bought the SCH 40 and i'm going back tonight to exchange it.
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what's the next size up to use for the ssc v2? is there a 1-1/4" ? or a 1-1/2"?
The SSC v2 uses the same size pipe as v1
The DSC needs a larger pipe
Rick R.
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what's the next size up to use for the ssc v2? is there a 1-1/4" ? or a 1-1/2"?
What ever size pipe you get, just make sure the End Caps are available. Price will go up also.
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I have some 1 1/4 PVC that I am going to check when I get my DSC's
SCott
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A tip I picked up from a Sep. 15 meeting - consider bringing BOTH cables in through the same endcap.
Then, you can open up the PVC by just removing the tube. The whole board would be exposed; no sliding over the wires.
Since you won't be disturbing the cables each time you open it for updates, you could seal them with Liquid Electrical tape.
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A tip I picked up from a Sep. 15 meeting - consider bringing BOTH cables in through the same endcap.
Then, you can open up the PVC by just removing the tube. The whole board would be exposed; no sliding over the wires.
Since you won't be disturbing the cables each time you open it for updates, you could seal them with Liquid Electrical tape.
I do something similar. The Cat5 connection comes out the bottom cap. The connection to the string comes out the side by way of a hole angled up to discourage water entry. The top cap has a hook so I can hang the SSC assembly to keep it off the ground. The light string is connected to the SSC by way of a 3 pin PCB connector. With this arrangement I can quickly remove and/or replace a SSC without any soldering.
I label the tube with the number of nodes and the bottom cap with the utility programming settings.
Rick S
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So many issues with the 1" thin wall ssc PVC IMHO .... Not available in many regions, tighter fit .... Just get the 1 1/4 and avoid the issues .... Just my opinion. The only downside is the caps cost a bit more.
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What issues?
If its not available in your region, that's an issue. For those that can get it, what issue are you referring to?
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Just seems like I've read a lot of threads about not being able to find the 1" thinwall PVC ... so just sayin the solution is to use a size up, a size thats more widely available, vs. chasing down a hard to find product this close to the season.
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Just to be clear, if the thin walled 1" PVC (200 psi) is available in your area, there are no issues. All versions of ssc will fit. The v1 and v2 SSCs are the same width.
The SSCs will not fit in the 1" schedule 40 stuff because the walls are thicker making the inner diameter smaller.
The DSC also will not fit in any of the 1" stuff.
The 1.25 schedule 40 stuff cost twice what the 1 inch 200psi does.
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Does this help?
http://www.diylightanimation.com/wiki/index.php?title=Equipment#SSC_Pipe_Size_Chart
Rick R.
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Great points Rick.
I was just inferring the KISS principle, of just going with 1.25" ... for SSC or DSC .. then you can find it everywhere ... and only need one 8' section of PVC and you can make a ton of them.
Then because you can use for either, perhaps save $$ that way ... plus no driving around for those of us who can't find it easily.