DiyLightAnimation
Hardware => Lynx USB DMX Dongle => Topic started by: lawn patrol on July 28, 2012,
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Ive built my first pixelnet dongle and cant get my smart string lights to work. I was having issues with the com port not working but got that working. Ill post pictures later today i need all the help I can get. I need advice on how to test the ssc for voltage and will voltage only be going when data is being sent or does it always have voltage going to it and how much? Below is how i am setup and what ive done so far.
lynx usb pixelnet dongle flashed with 613b firmware using pickit3
windows 7 using fdti drivers changed com port back to 6
baud rate set at 115200
rowewill 1000watt power supply using 24pin connectors and 3 4 pin connectors
16 port active hub green power light on
pixelnet and dmx universe set all to 1
pixelnet input ethernet patch cord to dongle
and ethernet patch to ssc from ss outputs
verified that all chips are facing the correct way
programmed pic on hub with 8196 firmware using pickit3
ssc is v2 programmed with 1a6b firmware
the shunt is only on 1 pin
from the pigtail the wire is solid not stranded not sure if that makes a difference
also I made my own ethernet patch cords and tested them with a meter to verify wires were not crossed
Question is does it matter which order the wires go in for the patch cord?
vixen ive added the output plugin for v2.1
addins dmx is not selected
enttec dmx pro is selected and changed to port 6 baud rate changed to 115200
also tried the pixelnet input not sure which one is correct but neither worked. pixelnet dongle led does flash when data is being sent
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i would change it to a different port - com3 or 4 in case your MB has a serial port on it...
Myk
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it was first assigned to port 6 so today i changed to port 1 and purchased another cable still same issues
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So ive built my first lynx dongle flashed it with pixelnet firmware. Loaded the fdti drivers and it also shows up in device manager. Dongle is on port 1 changed the baud rate to 11500. Tried two different usb cables. When im trying to test the dongle in xlights or vixen it says access to port com1 is denied. Sometimes in xlights the green led will blink but nothing happens with the smart strings.
Your header says dmx dongle , is this a pixelnet dongle or usb to dmx dongle ?
the first link is for dmx firmware
the second is for a pixelnet dongle
http://www.diylightanimation.com/wiki/index.php?title=Equipment#DMX_Devices
http://www.diylightanimation.com/wiki/index.php?title=Equipment#Hardware
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its a usb pixelnet dongle...i think the firmware wasnt programmed right so i redid that and now in vixen when i play a sequence the green light will flash with music. Only problem is my ss lights still arent coming on. Ive tried rj's ss utility to try and program and the string but when i hit transmit nothing happens the string doesnt blink or anything.
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did you load the virtual drivers for ftdi ?
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yes and it shows up in device manager...is there any way to test the ss hub i havent built a le yet but i have lor's can i use those to test the dongle. I think i would have to change the firmware back to dmx though unless the ss hub can output dmx.
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I think what would help is a little more information. What settings have you set in Vixen? What device are you trying to get the dongle to control? How do you have them hooked up? It sounds like you have a whole lot of new and untested equipment and that can make it very difficult to figure out what is and isn't working.
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OK, I know you are frustrated, but let's make sure all the pieces are in place.
PC with driver installed
USB cable
Dongle flashed with pixelnet firmware
Strait through Ethernet cable
Passive or Active 16 port hub with PC power supply attached and all 4 power connectors have plugs in them from the power supply.
Strait through Ethernet cable - stranded wire - not solid wire
SSC
Smart string pixels, squares, rectangles, flex strips, or rigid strips ordered through the wiki - not ordered from somewhere else!
First, flash the ssc with the test firmware.
Connect pc power supply, hub, ssc, and nodes. With the program jumper removed, nodes should cycle through red, green, blue, and white (order may vary depending on the pixel type). If this is not happening, check node wiring to make sure pixels are connected properly. If the first node lights a very dim blue color, the ground and data may be backwards...
If you have a multimeter, make sure you have something close to 12 volts on both the input and output side of the SSC when the LEDs are off. When the LEDs are on and you are using a long cat 5 cable, you may see some voltage drop...
If all that works, flash the SSC with the appropriate SSC firmware. Versions 1 & 2 require different firmware!!!
Connect everything and use the address utility to attempt to set the start address.
After exiting the address utility, use the color picker utility to see if the pixels will respond to control data. The advantage of using the color picker is that it transmits data across the whole universe - if the address did not take or are wrong, the pixels will still respond to the color picker.
If the color picker works, you can move to other programs for testing.
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Here are some suggestions.
Comm 1 is normal used internally in you computer, sometimes for you mouse port. You can check that in your Window Device managers, Unplug your Lynx Dongle then check you Device Manager to see if Comm 1 is still showing up, if so it is being used for some other device.
It is not good to use Comm 1.
The error trying to use vixen or another program might be you have 2 programs running trying to access the same comm port.You cannot have that. Exit any program using the comm port and then start the other program.
While in Windows Device Manager, you can plug in your Lynx Dongle and see what comm port it assigns to the Dongle, You must plug you dongle into the same USB port all the time, if you just plug into any USB port the device manager can assign another comm port number to the Dongle.
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Ok so ive fixed the port error that i was getting when trying to run vixen or any other program and it seems is recieving data being that the green led flashes. Later today ill have to check the ssc to see if its getting voltage. I think the problem lies within the active hub or the ssc.
The smart string pigtail came with solid wires not stranded is that going to be an issue?
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ok so alittle more information on what i have
lynx usb pixelnet dongle flashed with 613b firmware using pickit3
windows 7 using fdti drivers changed com port back to 6
baud rate set at 115200
rowewill 1000watt power supply using 24pin connectors and 3 4 pin connectors
16 port active hub green power light on
pixelnet and dmx universe set all to 1
pixelnet input ethernet patch cord to dongle
and ethernet patch to ssc from ss outputs
verified that all chips are facing the correct way
programmed pic on hub with 8196 firmware using pickit3
ssc is v2 programmed with 1a6b firmware
the shunt is only on 1 pin
from the pigtail the wire is solid not stranded not sure if that makes a difference
also I made my own ethernet patch cords and tested them with a meter to verify wires were not crossed
Question is does it matter which order the wires go in for the patch cord?
vixen ive added the output plugin for v2.1
addins dmx is not selected
enttec dmx pro is selected and changed to port 6 baud rate changed to 115200
also tried the pixelnet input not sure which one is correct but neither worked. pixelnet dongle led does flash when data is being sent
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If you have a voltmeter,checkout the ssc and make sure you have 12 volts DC. If a wire was crossed in the cable, it would pop the little green fuse (better the fuse than melting the wire...).
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If you have a voltmeter,checkout the ssc and make sure you have 12 volts DC. If a wire was crossed in the cable, it would pop the little green fuse (better the fuse than melting the wire...).
ok so ive tested to ssc and im getting 11 volts or so i think never really used a multimeter so hopefully im using it correctly.
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Looks like you are using it correctly. Just a tip. If your test for 12 volts then set your meter to 20 that is the setting just above 12. It will be more accurate.
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Excellent. Got power.
I'd go to the software page on the wiki and download the "SS Color Finder" program.
It gives you three sliders and sends out the whole pixelnet universe as rgbrgbrgb... It avoids the added complexity of setting up vixen, LSP, or some other program and touches all addresses...
If I had to guess, my next area of concern is the actual connection to the pixels, there are 11 wrong ways to hook them up...
I'm assuming that you are using pixels as the other nodes have their inputs marked. Make sure you are using the wires that go into the pixel on the side that the big black chip is on. The back side has several smaller resistors. This eliminates 6 wrong ways...
Red wire is +12v, but you knew that...
Blue and green... Green should be ground and blue data, but if the first pixel glows a faint blue, try swapping them.
Run the SS address utility, set up your nodes, use the drop-down to select the number of nodes, hit transmit, and do the jumper thing. Pixels should start blinking white, unplug the ssc and plug it back in (reset). Close/exit the SS address utility, then start the color finder.
In an early version of the ss address utility, manually typing the number of nodes did not work. I think this was fixed, but it's always safer to use the drop down. Also, be careful about addresses near the end of a universe. If the start address + (#nodes times 3) is greater than 4096, the ssc will have issues.
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ok thanks for the tip so with a more accurate im getting 12.13 volts...I still dont understand why the ss arent working...once in a while a single led will turn on when i connect the dongle or powersupply.
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nothing happens when i hit transmit in ss utility
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Did you flash the Hub and the SSC with the firmware. as the did not come flashed in the COOP.
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ok thanks for the tip so with a more accurate im getting 12.13 volts...I still dont understand why the ss arent working...once in a while a single led will turn on when i connect the dongle or powersupply.
if the single led is the first in the string and it is a blue color the wires from the ssc to the string can be incorrect.
Sent from my Thunderbolt using Tapatalk 2.
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Flashing the hub would not matter - that pic and firmware is only needed to drive the DMX output on the hub.
The pixelnet data From the dongle passes through a couple of the '485 chips for buffering and regeneration before it goes to the pixelnet outputs.
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I'm assuming you did, but just in case...
You move the jumper to the program position after you hit transmit. Once the string starts flashing move it back. String should continue to flash until you disconnect the ssc from the hub.
When the dongle is transmitting DMX, the green led is very bright. When the dongle is transmitting pixelnet, it's difficult to see it flashing, but it is.
The wire order in the Ethernet cables follows the industry standard, but I always have to look it up...
Do you have anything else that we can test with, like another SSC or a DMX device? I've got 1 ssc that just wouldn't work last year, so I plugged in a spare and never got around to fixing the bad one... Right now we have too many variables... It would be nice to try something else so that we can confirm some known good items...
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I'm assuming you did, but just in case...
You move the jumper to the program position after you hit transmit. Once the string starts flashing move it back. String should continue to flash until you disconnect the ssc from the hub.
When the dongle is transmitting DMX, the green led is very bright. When the dongle is transmitting pixelnet, it's difficult to see it flashing, but it is.
The wire order in the Ethernet cables follows the industry standard, but I always have to look it up...
Do you have anything else that we can test with, like another SSC or a DMX device? I've got 1 ssc that just wouldn't work last year, so I plugged in a spare and never got around to fixing the bad one... Right now we have too many variables... It would be nice to try something else so that we can confirm some known good items...
correct i hit transmit then i move the shunt to program...the led on the dongle is very faint and blinking is that because its pixelnet when running vixen its alot brighter. as for ethernet cables there are two standards i think im using method b not quite sure but would that even matter?
I do have two other ssc that i have not assembled yet and i have two le that are not assembled either. If i have time ill build the ssc but the le will have to wait till the weekend. other than that i only have lor equipment.
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if the single led is the first in the string and it is a blue color the wires from the ssc to the string can be incorrect.
Sent from my Thunderbolt using Tapatalk 2.
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the led is blue but it doesnt come on every time and it might be the first light on the string but im not positive.
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In Vixen be sure no add-ins are selected.
For Output plug-ins select only the "Pixelnet" plugin. This file is in the wiki. Configure it in VZicen for your comport.
Keep us posted.
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We now know you have power to the SSC, If you have the ability to, flash the SSC with the test firmware. This is a good way to check that you have the pixels connected correctly and they are working. If that all goes correctly then reflash with v2 firmware and test with the color picker tool. If that works you should then be able to set your start address.
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I mentioned the test firmware before, but I don't see a version for the v2 ssc and I'm not sure if the v1 ssc test firmware is compatible with the hardware changes on the v2 board...
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It is not and using it cn possibly damage the SSC V2
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ok so an update...i built another ssc tonight and flashed it with firmware used rg's utility to program it and still no lights flashing. ssc does have 12 volts going to it and it is programmed with 168b firmware.
Does it matter what way the resistors go? when building the lor i know it didnt matter just want to double check i dont think it matters.
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direction on resistors does not matter.
direction on the small 0.1uf capacitors does not matter either... the larger capacitors DO matter.
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Resistors are not polarized so it really doesn't matter which way you put them in. Perhaps you might want to take closeup pictures of the board and post them so that we can see it.
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When you say you moved the shunt to program, that DOES mean you have it on BOTH program pins at the same time?(in the picture the shunt is only on one pin) I don't know why but I've always put the shunt on both pins BEFORE I hit transmit.
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ive tried it both way ways it never works
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If the shunt is not on both pins then it is doing nothing. Setting it on one pin is simply the storage position which is I suspect, why he has it like that, so he doesn't lose it.
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Aafter build 2 SSC and still no lights, I would look at the Hub, that's what I think would be the next logical thing to do.
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It's time to start posting pictures of your boards.
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This just happened this morning when i was plugging in the 4 pin power i forgot to disconnect the power supply and i had pin in wrong direction...board still has led on. will post pictures later tonight have to go to work.
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This just happened this morning when i was plugging in the 4 pin power i forgot to disconnect the power supply and i had pin in wrong direction...board still has led on. will post pictures later tonight have to go to work.
Ouch, did that burn through the copper track?
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Following the trace that is fried, It connects the first pin on all (3)- 4 pin power connectors and sends power to the st485Bn chip just above the first power connector. Then in the other direction it sends power to 1 pin on the 24 pin connector. This could cause some additional issues.
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either way ss dont work now and didnt work before im so frustrated im about to toss it in the trash. im going to start building my le now and hopefully that will work with the dongle.
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After you build the Express, reprogram the USB Dongle for DMX and hook it directly to the Express. This way for sure you will know that the USB Dongle and the Express are working. You can always reprogram the USB Dongle again for PixelNet. Then you can start looking at the Hub again.
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still working on the express building two of them...will the damage to the hub be fixable? maybe put a jumper wire in?
If all goes well i should be done with the build by friday
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A jumper wire might work but be very careful. You may have damaged some components as well.
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If the led is still working, I think you dodged a bullet. The 5v is only used for the 485 chips, which require very little power. The led is lit from the 5v line at the 485 chip - most likely getting power from the outside 4 pin connector.
I don't think you need to worry about a jumper.
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Just make sure you take your time. I might suggest trying xlights instead of vixen as its tester is really nice and easy to use.
You need to take good quality pictures of your boards in natural diffused daylight with the flash off and post them. I think that would help a lot and allow members to review your board in greater detail for problems. Capture a clear picture of both the front and back of the board.
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ok so ive completed the build of two express boards and in the process of testing them. Im new to diy so im probably making a mistake here but i keep getting errors when selecting the com port. Ive tried numerous programs to send dmx to the le but nothing seems to work. In vixen it says the port does not exist or access denied. In le config utility it says access to the path c:\program fiules (x86)dla\lynx epress configuration utility\configs\config.xml' is denied.
Your probably thinking that I have multiple programs open trying to use the same port and the answer is no i dont. Ive even reset my computer and changed the port and still get the same error. This is the same error i used to get trying to use pixelnet but somehow i stopped getting it. This may have been the issue the whole time.
Ive done a test with the power on the board and all 16 channels light up.
Question is terminate supposed to have a jumper on it? or is that for wireless?
3v and 5v light come on the data light not sure didnt solder that in yet cuz i was short one bulb but i have it now. Its late now and ill test the other board tomorrow.
yes i did change the firmware to the dongle for dmx and the express is programmed too.
For vixen what plugin am I supposed to use ive been trying enttec dmx usb pro and with the baud rate at 115200 addins dmx selected. Not sure if those are the right settings or not.
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It looks like some of the picture may be missing here. What dongle are you using to connect to the Express? If you are using the USB dongle, make sure that you have indtalled the FTDI driver located in the WIKI. If you don't Windows will install the native USB drver but that doesn't work. Then you can take a look in thehardware manager to see if Windows recognized it ansd it will give you the correct com port. Until you get the dongle working, it really doesn't matter what you have connected to it because nothing will work. Also remove the DMX addin because that will stop it from working properly. The DMX addin makes the computer format the DMX data stream and that is the job of the Dongle. The DMX addin is used for devices lik the Enttec open which is a dumb communications link.
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The process for using the USB dongle should go something like this:
1. Download the FTDI drivers from the wiki and install them.
2. Plug in your dongle (the first time you do this it should say "found new hardware and installing drivers").
3. Go to your Control Panel and open the hardware manager (in XP system -> hardware) and click on "Ports COM and LPT" and you should see "USB serial port", click on the properties for that and write down the COM number and set the BAUD rate to 115200 the rest should be fine.
4. Down load the LE config utility and the DMX deck from the wiki and install.
5. Connect your (1) express to your dongle and run the setup utility setting the start address and lighting curves (if you know them yet). Repeat for your remaining expresses.
6. Run the DMX deck and test your expresses.
7. Set up Vixen with the Entec USB Pro plug-in setting the correct COM port number and you should be good to go!
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ftdi drivers installed
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firmware and back of usb dongle
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front of usb dongle
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front of hub
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back of hub
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Still no luck with dongle. I uninstalled the ftdi drivers and reinstalled them and got rid of the no access to port errors but when i use lynx express config utility and try and program the express it never resets the board. I have the express in the program prg. then i hit tranmit on the config utility and nothing happens the program just says transmitting and the green led dongle is flashing but the express doesnt reset.
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what is the terminate on the express board for and should a shunt be on it?
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If this express is the last one in a chain (or the only one) you must put the jumper in place over both pins to "terminate" it.
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yeah that was the problem express is working fine now with the shunt installed on wireless and terminate. If I were to use two express units would I not use shunt on first express? For the led display is that number for the assigned unit?
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ok so now that i know the dongle is working in dmx i need to figure out why the hub wasnt working with the pixelnet dongle. im going to order parts from mouser to make another dongle put in the meantime ill just flash the dongle i have with pixelnet. ive posted the pics of the hub if someone can help me troubleshoot the hub more id appreciate it.
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ok, the first thing I would do to the hub it take some Isopropyl Alcohol and an old tooth brush and clean off the flux. Then if it were me, knowing that the USB Dongle works is as follows
1. Re-Flash teh USB Dongle for pixelnet.
2. Take an ethernet cable and cut one end of it to expose the orange-white and orange wire these 2 are used to send the signel hook then directly to the SSC.
3. Using 2 20 guage wires hook the +12 volts to the positive of the SSC and ground to the negative of the SSC. if you search google for pc power supply connector you will find which pins are +12 and Ground. You will also have to use a jumper wire between two of the pins.
This way you can TEST (NOT FOR GENERAL USE) using the USB Dongle, a 12 power supply such as a PC Power supply, and the SSC.
This will verify that your SSC is working.
Be sure to hoolk up some lights to the SSC.
I'm not sure but you may be able to flash the SSC with the TEST firmware and only supply the 12 volts and then maybe the test pattern will run. I'm not sure on this part.
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yeah that was the problem express is working fine now with the shunt installed on wireless and terminate. If I were to use two express units would I not use shunt on first express? For the led display is that number for the assigned unit?
Correct.
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ok, the first thing I would do to the hub it take some Isopropyl Alcohol and an old tooth brush and clean off the flux. Then if it were me, knowing that the USB Dongle works is as follows
1. Re-Flash teh USB Dongle for pixelnet.
2. Take an ethernet cable and cut one end of it to expose the orange-white and orange wire these 2 are used to send the signel hook then directly to the SSC.
3. Using 2 20 guage wires hook the +12 volts to the positive of the SSC and ground to the negative of the SSC. if you search google for pc power supply connector you will find which pins are +12 and Ground. You will also have to use a jumper wire between two of the pins.
This way you can TEST (NOT FOR GENERAL USE) using the USB Dongle, a 12 power supply such as a PC Power supply, and the SSC.
This will verify that your SSC is working.
Be sure to hoolk up some lights to the SSC.
I'm not sure but you may be able to flash the SSC with the TEST firmware and only supply the 12 volts and then maybe the test pattern will run. I'm not sure on this part.
I would advise NOT doing this because if you have wired the SSC incorrectly you could damage the Dongle. The hub isolates the dongle from the SSC's. If you have a version 1 SSC then you can flash it with the test firmware and it should flash the lights a soon as it is plugged into the hub and the hub is powered up. I you have a ver 2 SSC, don't install the test firmware because it can cause damage to the SSC. One thing that you can do is to test for voltagfe accross the fuses. If you get a reading then the fuse is blown which is almost always due to an issue with the SSC wiring. Also be sure to measure for voltage at the 12V inputs. If your power supply is giving it voltage, you will see 12 VDC there.
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i tested for voltage at ssc awhile back and i was getting 12v...couldnt figure out what was going on so i built the two express units to see if the was bad. Now that we know the dongle is sending dmx to express units it should work for pixelnet once i flash the pic. I have v2 ssc so cant use the test firmware.
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Im trying to program the pic on the hub and I keep getting no device detected. Is this becasuse the board needs power to it? I selected 3.3 power on program and still get nothing I also powered up the hub and same result. I had no problem before trying to program the hub. Im wondering if when I fried the board if that affected something. Ive even tried using a new pic.
Should I try and make a jumper now and where does it go?
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ok got the pic programmed now...Had the pickit3 in backwards
I made a jumper wire from the 24 pin connnector to the 3 4 pin power cables just not sure if jumper needs to go to a chip also
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would it make a difference by the wiring diagram for cat5? Should I be using a or b?
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Use B it is the most standard so if you every buy pre-made cables they will all be the same.
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well all my ethernet patch cords are A since the company i work only using that standard. but ill make some 568b cables when i get home tonight.
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As long as they are strait through, it doesn't matter.
If you use a crossover cable, you will have issues and probably pop the fuse...
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Cross over cables make no difference either. Where the problem might be is if you are connecting based on the wire color since A and B use the same pin pairs but use different colors on some of the pairs. That would have you connecting the wrong pairs to the inputs of the SSC.
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I thought cross over cables reversed 2 of the + and - for power and would short?
Mk
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Yes crossovers do matter and will short out stuff. They are bad on Smart String stuff. I think he means at a different level but I do not want any confusion for the users.
RJ
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I think this keeps comming up, maybe it should be in the wiki under a cables section. What type to use and what type not to use. With the what not to use in red and bold and approved in bold and green. Just a thought.
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i was using 568b from the dongle to the hub and 568a from the smart string to the hub. Ill be out of town for 3 weeks and i dont have time for troubleshooting. When i come back hopefully i can get this darn hub to work.
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Straight patch cords really shouldn't matter that much as the orange and green pair are reversed http://www.btfh.net/howto/cat5.html the problem would come in using jacks and wiring one end A and the other B
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I thought cross over cables reversed 2 of the + and - for power and would short?
Mk
You are correct and that's not what I meant. What I meant is that like a straight thru cable, a type A crossover is no different than a type B crossover. Using a crossover cable on a smart string controller will cause a short regardless or whether it is a type A or B crossver.
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ok i just got back in town and Im completely lost in what to do and how to get this hub to work. PM me if your willing to work on it and ill see if I can ship it.
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If you are sure you are getting pixelnet to it then, On the top five st485 chips swap the leftmost two with the right most two and then test using the right columns of the outputs. This way if a bad st485 chip is your problem it should then work. The right most one is the receiver so it if was bad or had bent pins ect it would cause the whole 16 outputs not to work.
RJ
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I had a spare set of parts for another build and i tried that before with no luck.
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Then it has to be a solder connection or similiar. The data simply comes in the plug and depending on the jumper location jumpers two wires from the cable to the input of the 5th st485 chip which output the data to the four others and then connecto straght to 4 of the outputs each.
You need to have good power the jumpers in place and data to them. Are you sure Pixelnet data is getting to the pcbs ok?
RJ
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Well right now I'm not sure of anything since the board got damaged. I know dmx worked even after the board was fried.Which is why i wanted you to look at it.
I've ordered a new pcb. I think I'm short a couple parts but hopefully when i get it built it will work.
I could of had the smart strings connected the wrong way. Does it matter which end of the string is connected? I think i read somewhere connect the chip side of the string to the pcb.
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That is correct.
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ok ive just built another active hub and im getting the same thing. No blinking lights.
Ive tested to verify ssc is getting voltage. 12volts into the smart string and its outputting 12volts too which leads me to believe the smart strings are not working. Is there anyway I can test the strings?
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You do have the strings connect to the correct side? The node strings do have a input and an output side.
Rick R.
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I have them connect with the the big chip faccing the ssc
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Just a recap on what Ive done so far. If anyone is willing to help plz pm me I'm in desperate need of it.
Built two 16 port active hubs
Built 3 ssc 2 75 node strings and i also have 3 ribbons
Built two dongles 1 flashed for pixelnet and the other for dmx
Built two Le and they are working
Ive had problems ever since the start of trying to get a ssc programed with the smart string utility for some reason when I go to program it the lights never flash. The big chip is facing the ssc and for the ribbon I'm not sure which way the arrow is supposed to face i have it facing away from the ssc. So if that's wrong please correct me.
What I need is for someone to test the equipment for me and verify what is working and what isn't because with me just starting and not having anything its hard for me troubleshoot whats good and what isn't. If you have any questions please feel free to post. If you live in Florida and are willing to test the ssc, dongle and hub pm and ill get back asap.
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On the ribbon the arrow goes with the flow of current. So pointing away with from the SSC.
If you want to ship it to me I can look at it. I have lots of known good equipment that I can put it to the test with.
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I'm not sure if this will help, but I couldn't get any of my smart strings to power up either. The biggest difference I had was that I was still using the USB dongle, not the pixelnet dongle (waiting patiently for that to come in).
I found another thread which recognized that the smart string utility didn't work for the USB dongle. There's a post in this thread from RJ with an updated executable. I used that, and *WOW* my smart strings started to work. Here's the thread, and hoping that this might help.
http://diylightanimation.com/index.php?topic=9539.0
- Lora (Another newbie in the DIY realm )
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That has to do with the new firmware which I do not think he is working with.
RJ