SSC won't program but runs test mode fine

[einstein2883]

Your soldering looks good.  From your ohm's testing we have proven that your path from the data pins to the big chip is good.  The next thing to check is that the 485 chip is getting power.  Check that you have 0 ohm’s between pin’s 2, 3, 5 and gnd.  If that’s ok connect it to power.  When doing the next test make sure you don’t short out 2 pins with the meter probe on the chip. Now measure volts from pin8 on the 485 chip to gnd, you should have +5 volts.

[zwiller]

Yes, 0 ohms on 2,3,5 and ground.

Yes, 4.96v (5v) on pin 8 to gnd.

Thanks   

I haven't seen any troubleshooting on SSC's here, I hope this will help others with similar issues. 

[injury]

I decided to pick it up and the low voltage regulator was REAL HOT.  I see no bridges anywhere etc.  I'd like to think it is a bad LD33 but unsure.  Any ideas now?  As fate would have it I have a LD33 from my 12V hub supply kit...  I assume there is a

Let us know how that swapout goes, I've got one that won't work correctly and has the same heat issue.

One thing I don't see mentioned is you said you are using the original version 3 mod, are you also using that firmware and programming utility as well? I don't believe the newer versions are compatible with that hardware mod.

[zwiller]

Yes, I have all the firmware for the first V3 renamed and backed up and the various mods are NOT compatible. 

Some more info and vid here: You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login

[zwiller]

Bringing this one back from beyond...  Swapped LD33 with a fresh one and still same results and runs too hot.  Any more thoughts?  Hoping to add any parts needed to the SSCv4 order.  Thanks!

[rdebolt]

Sam unless I missed it somewhere you don't mention if you keep trying the same lights. Have you tried it with another set of lights? Or does it get hot just plugged in no lights attached?

[rm357]

That looks like the first "mod" attempt which didn't do so well.
My advice is to mod it to the new v3 configuration.

If you don't want to mod the board, can you easily disconnect the lights?
I would be willing to bet that the pin from the programming header being attached to the sting is preventing the programming from working.

[zwiller]

Actually never connected any lights since the LD33 gets hot fast and ready for magic smoke... 

Very happy with that mod since I have 22 that worked well last season.  Not opposed to scrapping it since v4 is due out but at this point it mostly a challenge to find it and understand what is wrong. 

Just tried removing string connector, then removed mod wire, still cooking the LD33.   

[rdebolt]

Actually never connected any lights since the LD33 gets hot fast and ready for magic smoke... 

Very happy with that mod since I have 22 that worked well last season.  Not opposed to scrapping it since v4 is due out but at this point it mostly a challenge to find it and understand what is wrong. 

Just tried removing string connector, then removed mod wire, still cooking the LD33.   

I do not know the design end at all, but to make heat there must be current flow. Another words a positive connection going to a ground some where (a short). Since the LD33 reg is getting hot and you have already replace it the short would have to be after the LD 33 Regulator (unless 2 bad LD33...not likely, but possible). Just thinking out loud here.

[RJ]

Pull the pic and see if it still get hot.

Check that the 5v regulator is putting 5volts out. It should be hard for the 3.3v reg to get hot on 5v as it must have a large amount of current running through it.

RJ

[zwiller]

Does not get hot with pic pulled.  Hopefully a good thing. 

Yes.  5v output from regulator.  (Looked up datasheet.  Cool stuff: Left leg input, center leg ground, right leg output 5v) 

THANKS!

[RJ]

Check that you have no solder bridging on the pic socket pins. Make sure your mod was to the correct pins.

RJ

[oj70chevy]

Hi just checking if you got the ssc to work. As I am having the same issue. Test works fine but when I program I get no blinky lights unless I remove the data line then I get all white. Have checked all soldering points as well as the pigtails and no dice. I am new and may be missing something so thought I would see if what fixed yours would work for me.

[RJ]

Make sure your wiring is not swapped, there is no solder bridges and the parts are all in the correct direction.

Believe it or not this fixes 95% of the issues builders have.

RJ

[zwiller]

I am the 5%    I tried a ton of things and never got it to work.  If I didn't know any better I got a bad pcb.  Harvested the key parts and used on another and worked fine.  This was the only bad project out of out like 50+.