Everyone please report you build status here for everyone

[JonB256]

There are several things that should not be soldered tight/flush against the board. The reason is almost always heating and expansion/contraction. LEDs, Crystals, some diodes - if they are tight against the board, when they contract it will pull on the leads, eventually damaging the internals. Big electrolytic capacitors have the same concern.

[TexasStingray]

The reason I said not flush is because the metal casing is pretty much all the way around and I was afraid that the solder might run thru and make contact. But like JonB256 please check the LED, Capacitors, etc...

[PJNMCT]

OK so after finally getting the right power supply - somewhere I thought I saw that the range was 9-12vdc so I used an old 9v one I found laying around (even though I measured somewhere around 15v it said 9v so I tried it and nothing worked and the regulator got VERY hot - but no smoke!!). Decided to use the etherdongle supply rated at 6v(!?!) and things worked great (STILL!). Sort of makes sense that the 6v would work since its a 5v regulator.

Then my show PC keeps dying - I think the power supply is going.

Then I had to get a card reader for my laptop.

The instructions read as if the CONTROL.TXT file is on the SD card by default but after searching the .zip files, I found the show/control/sequence files.

Then -
Got through all of the B1 tests except for test 5. No matter if I replaced the CHASE002 with ABDCEFGH or I added it or I left line 2 blank (which is probably ok),the test would not fail - solid red and green leds.

I have received my programmer and will try the B2 version at some point.

Another thing I need to do is hook up the DMX out. I was just doing the board tests at this point.

-Paul

[DanHouston]

If you have a multi-meter here are some voltage points. On the Status LED the voltage may pulse if there is an error, so hold it on there for a couple of seconds and see what happens. If it does pulse or stays at +5 volts then chances are the LED is on backwards.

I have the voltages labeled on the diagram....bad led...tested it both ways and never did anyting...grabbed a spare I had and I now have a blinking green LED....running through the tests now

[DanHouston]

TEST1 - Success
TEST2 - FAIL (Green LED stayed on constant...no blinking)
TEST3 - Success
TEST4 - Success
TEST5 - Success (might be worth explicitly noting that it does not repeat that signal...or it did not repeat it with mine)

Successful bench test with rainbow brain and flood.

Curiosity question....is that GREEN LED integral to the circuit such that if you have a bad one the player won't work? It appears that is all I had was a bad LED and replacing it has everything working.

[TexasStingray]

If the any of the LED's are out the system does not know it out and it should still work, that is unless there is a shot in the LED in which case it could cause a problem. It may just burn out the 330 ohm resistor which I do not think would prevent the system from working. No sure what going on test #2. but glad it working.