Author Topic: Assembling the DONGLE V2 with the DLP-USB245M-G2, second generation USB Module  (Read 1853 times)

Offline JoeFromOzarks

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Assembling the DONGLE V2 with the DLP-USB245M-G2, second generation USB Module:  (pictures attached)

Follow all of the DONGLE Assembly instructions [http://www.diylightanimation.com/wiki/index.php?title=Dongle_Manual_v2] up to the point of installing the 28-pin PIC socket.  Skip installing the 28-pin PIC socket until immediately after installing the DLP-USB245M-G2 USB module.   

The USB module installs as directed, soldered flush against the PCB.   I use a clothes pin to secure the USB module against the PCB.   Solder two diagonally opposing USB module PINS to hold the USB module in place.

Next, place the 28-pin PIC socket into its holes, observing correct orientation.  The socket edge will nudge against the USB module and those pins will not penetrate the PCB completely, but more than adequate for soldering.  To help hold the 28-pin PIC socket in place, bend over two pins, PIN-1 and PIN-14 and then solder those two pins.  Check your work.  Ensure PIN-15 through PIN-28 of the 28-pin PIC socket poke through the PCB adequately and ensure the 28-pin PIC socket is securely against the USB module.  If all is excellent, solder all pins, both the USB module and the 28-pin PIC socket. 

Follow the rest of the DONGLE assembly instructions.

Program the PIC18F2450 with either the DMX firmware or the PIXELNET firmware, straighten the pins and carefully insert into the 28-pin PIC socket observing PIN-1 orientation.   

As a test, I programmed the PIC first with the DMX Firmware and successfully operated (VIXEN 2.1.4.0) an AETHER-2.  Then I programmed the PIC with the PIXELNET Firmware and successfully operated an SSC-1, SSC-4 and two DSC’s along with the DMX AETHER-2.  I experienced no problems; with the slight modification described above, the DLP-USB245M-G2 performed flawlessly.

-joe


« Last Edit: September 12, 2019, by JoeFromOzarks »
"If it was easy, everybody would be doin' it!!!"        :)

Offline winwin

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Thank you for posting these instructions.
What are the reasons for this modification? part replacement for one that is no longer available, or something else?

I have a DMX V2 dongle that is a few years old (6-7 years), still working perfectly. I don't have a backup and I am thinking I should have one. Wondering if what you suggested is the way to go (would need to find a board). or maybe there are other alternatives?

AL.

Offline JoeFromOzarks

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Howdy!

The modification is due to the new USB Interface Module, the recommended replacement for the discontinued model, is a a tad bit wider than the old, discontinued model.  Because it is a tad bit wider, it won't allow the PIC socket to sit perfectly flush with the PCB.  The BOM is here: [https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=3e72e3c7a8] and is part of the Wiki [http://www.diylightanimation.com/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page].

I chose to not go the "super-advanced" pixel route, DLA's stuff is good enough for me at the relatively low node counts I'm using, so XLights and Falcon and RPi controllers is a step I chose not to take, I'm keeping a couple of spares of DLA stuff such as Dongles and Smart String Controllers, Hubs, etc.   Post in the Sale/Trade [http://diylightanimation.com/index.php?board=21.0] section you're wanting a Dongle PCB (or a good used Dongle) and see what is offered.  The good part is, RJ's DLA Dongle with the new USB Interface Module can be programmed to be DLA's PixelNet or DMX!

I repaired a couple of DLA Dongles for folks last year, the number one problem was poor or incomplete soldering, number two (apparently) was accidentally connecting the dongle to a Pixelnet output (though I tried it **NOT RECOMMENDED** and couldn't fry the USB Interface Module) so it's quite durable. 

:) joe




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Thank you for posting these instructions.
What are the reasons for this modification? part replacement for one that is no longer available, or something else?

I have a DMX V2 dongle that is a few years old (6-7 years), still working perfectly. I don't have a backup and I am thinking I should have one. Wondering if what you suggested is the way to go (would need to find a board). or maybe there are other alternatives?
« Last Edit: September 21, 2019, by JoeFromOzarks »
"If it was easy, everybody would be doin' it!!!"        :)

Offline winwin

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Thanks a lot for the explanations. I'll use them to build my spare USB dongle, if I can find a PCB...
Cheers!
AL.