cant get it to work

[mschell]

Take voltage readings on the output lugs (should go from zero to almost 12 volts)



Rick R.

Joshua,
   As Rick mentioned earlier in this thread, first try reading the voltage on the output lugs to see if you're getting a smooth ramp up to 12V from 0 when you turn the channel on in LSP or whatever Software you're using.

Another thing to check is to lookup the chip or triac part number on Mouser or just google it for the manufacturer's website.  You can then lookup the specifications for that chip or triac and see which pin is supposed to have a 5V or 3V supply signal.  Most schematics will say Vcc or something similar to designate this pin.   That's the supply that makes the chip work.

For the triacs, find out which one is the "input" signal - the one that doesn't switch the 12V or go to the output lug.  That signal tells the triacs to turn on or not turn on.  You could also monitor that pin with the voltmeter to see if the triac is getting the right signal to turn on.  Again, the spec sheet for the triac will tell you what voltage should "turn on" the triac.  For those channels that don't seem to work, check to see if the input signal is changing when you turn on the channel in the software.

If you check out the specifications for the driver chip, you can tell what function the pin that was broken does.

I'm sharing all the detailed info with you so that you have enough information to figure out what's going on with your board.   If you work thru some of these items, you will be learning some electronics basics which will help you along the way.

[RJ]

As I said before. With the 5940 chip damaged there is no reason to do any diagnostics as this is the chip that controls the channels so you need to get that fixed before any real meaningful work can be done to fix any issues. The first step to diagosis is to fix the know problems and then work from there. Once you get he chip replaced, I think Keith found some if you check with him. Then I will be more than happy to help you get it up and running. One of the good parts of keeping the designs all the same is we know what you are working on and we know it works, we just find whats different on yours and we have it beat.

RJ

[joshuashu]

RJ,

Thanks for the detailed info i really appreciate it.  i will find a new chip and test out what you said.  this chip may have been broken from the beginning and i just never noticed it.  The thing i don't understand is why in LSP it wont control the lights when playing a sequence but when i use the test hardware feature i can turn on the channels and it will dim the lights and turn them on and off?  i have asked over at LSP and they havent responded other than to set the the intensity to 0 to 255.

[RJ]

RJ,

Thanks for the detailed info i really appreciate it.  i will find a new chip and test out what you said.  this chip may have been broken from the beginning and i just never noticed it.  The thing i don't understand is why in LSP it wont control the lights when playing a sequence but when i use the test hardware feature i can turn on the channels and it will dim the lights and turn them on and off?  i have asked over at LSP and they havent responded other than to set the the intensity to 0 to 255.

LSP has some steps that have to be right before it will output. The channel test Always sends out data so it sounds as if you do not have the output turned on. It will does everything normal but nothing goes out on running a seq when the output is off.

Test with The channel test or Vixen till all is working, then work on that problem you are going to drive yourself crazy trying to fix too many problems all at the same time.

RJ

[b_legg]

Just my 2 cents... The solder 'tails' can also be a sign of the tip of your iron being dirty (accumulation of flux residue and impurities from the solder, etc). Make sure that every few connections you are cleaning your tip. A nice shiny tip heats the leads faster and keeps the solder from clinging to it when you move away from the connection. The best cleaner I have found can be had a Fry's too. Might pick one up while your there. I have the Hakko 599B, basically an aluminum housing that looks sorta like R2D2 after about 12 hours of soldering.   It uses a brass mesh kinda like a Brillo pad to clean the excess solder and junk off the tip. It doesn't cause the sudden drops in tip temperature like using a moist sponge does and is better at removing the flux residue.

Hope this helps some too.

Brian

PS: I am in no way affiliated with Fry's. Just found a good tip cleaner there.