Waterproofing

[magic8192]

One of my electrical know how friends was over looking at my newly installed 200 amp temporary power pole and I described my setup to him.  He told me that the first time it rained, I was going to be running around for hours and hours trying to solve GFCI trip problems unless I water proofed all my light connections. 

He recommended:
For all lines on the ground, put a loop in the line and wire tie it at each connection and then put a tin can over the loop with the loop up into the can.  Then drive a small wooden stick into the ground and put the can over it to hold the can upright.

For all connections that aren't on the ground , silicon them.

I know that I have heard some people complain about GFCI breakers and that some people don't worry about waterproofing and have no problem. 

Any thoughts?

[sirwesley]

I know I had a problem with GFCI last year.  Kept tripping when it rained.  Caused me to get locked out of my house, since it tripped power to my garage door

[Ron]

From a board perspective RJ always suggests giving your boards a good coat of corrosion X.

I did not do this last year, but it is on my list for this year.

RJ, if you see this, can you spray the boards or do you need to have a dip pan?  If spraying, do you leave the chips in or spray with the chips out?

Thanks.

Ron

[Greg]

I think your friend is overstating the problem, just a little IMO.

Obviously it makes sense not to have cord interconnections laying in a puddle.  Same goes for light strings.  But if you have lights on metal poles/wire frames staked into the ground like tomato cage mini trees the likelihood of sufficient current leakage to trip GFCIs is high.  Even with a ground break of some sort on the wire frames, during rainy conditions cumulative leakage between hot and common conductors on the light strings assisted by the conductivity of the wire frames can cause trips.

I don't think siliconing everything is practical however a wrap of electrical tape on interconnects and unused plug sockets might be worthwhile. I say might because I personally don't do it and haven't had any problems because of not doing so.

I also try to limit use of metal structures and keep those grouped on separate GFCIs so if a trip occurs it doesn't unnecessarily take out other stuff in the display.

Use your common sense and deal with the problems as they arise and you should be fine.

Greg

[Greg]

RJ, if you see this, can you spray the boards or do you need to have a dip pan?  If spraying, do you leave the chips in or spray with the chips out?

Ron, I can't speak for RJ, but I leave the board completely assembled, and use the spray to wet the board front and back. The corrosionX works its way into pretty much every nook and cranny.  Amazing stuff.

Greg

[RJ]

RJ, if you see this, can you spray the boards or do you need to have a dip pan?  If spraying, do you leave the chips in or spray with the chips out?

Ron, I can't speak for RJ, but I leave the board completely assembled, and use the spray to wet the board front and back. The corrosionX works its way into pretty much every nook and cranny.  Amazing stuff.

Greg

He nailed it. We just spray it on with it all together. The stuff will work its way into anything.

RJ

[blearning]

Second that on the CorroisonX stuff.   It is pretty amazing ... it has several properties that make it excellent for us.

A water dispersement agent, a non conductive lubricant, and a lasting film that doesn't degrade over time (for our stuff).   

there is a demo somewhere that shows them spraying a TV and then dunking it in a tank of water with it continuing to work ... 

The corrosionX extra strength one is what I used on some of the gear from the flood which was corroded, the corrosion was removed right to the board around the tightest of places and the board worked when plugged in.  It is now coated with a film that will protect it.

I suspect if you sprayed /coated your dry connections as you set up, it would suffice to keep it dry. (YMMV) 

I am very suspicious of the tin can thing ... from a qualified electrician ?

[magic8192]

I appreciate the replies.  I think I will get some corrosionX for sure. 

blearning,  Why are you suspicious of the tin can thing?  All it really boils down to is a simple mechanism to keep the connectors dry.   

[Greg]

I'd think a plastic container would be preferable if you decide to go that route since plastic is less conductive than metal. Under the right circumstances the metal can could actually enhance the probability of a GFCI trip. 

Greg

[magic8192]

I'd think a plastic container would be preferable if you decide to go that route since plastic is less conductive than metal. Under the right circumstances the metal can could actually enhance the probability of a GFCI trip. 

Greg

I think you are probably right. 

[blearning]

I appreciate the replies.  I think I will get some corrosionX for sure. 

blearning,  Why are you suspicious of the tin can thing?  All it really boils down to is a simple mechanism to keep the connectors dry.   

Actually they make weatherproofing devices for outdoor connections, very expensive for our use.   It is similar to heat shrink but has some other properties as well.   In telecom we use a greased crimp connector which is very effective (referred to a penny).  I never tried it on lights and wont.  SMILE    

Second inverting a container above the cooler ground makes a condenser, BOY scouts fresh water maker, it really doesn't matter what it is, tin, plastic, wood.  

The principle is very basic, the container setting above the ground gets warmed in the ambient air, the cooler damp air from the ground condenses on the container.  It is a pretty amazing thing for the first time.   Northern climates it will freeze as it condensates and is good to make cold drinks with.  If the container is clean.

a quick way to see it ... turn one of your empty totes upside down ... wait 10 to 20 minutes and check it ...  it will be damp inside.  

solar desalination ... *SMILE*

[magic8192]

I appreciate the replies.  I think I will get some corrosionX for sure. 

blearning,  Why are you suspicious of the tin can thing?  All it really boils down to is a simple mechanism to keep the connectors dry.   

Actually they make weatherproofing devices for outdoor connections, very expensive for our use.   It is similar to heat shrink but has some other properties as well.   In telecom we use a greased crimp connector which is very effective (referred to a penny).  I never tried it on lights and wont.  SMILE    

Second inverting a container above the cooler ground makes a condenser, BOY scouts fresh water maker, it really doesn't matter what it is, tin, plastic, wood.  

The principle is very basic, the container setting above the ground gets warmed in the ambient air, the cooler damp air from the ground condenses on the container.  It is a pretty amazing thing for the first time.   Northern climates it will freeze as it condensates and is good to make cold drinks with.  If the container is clean.

a quick way to see it ... turn one of your empty totes upside down ... wait 10 to 20 minutes and check it ...  it will be damp inside.  

solar desalination ... *SMILE*

OK, here is something I saw on planet christmas.   

Take a small wooden stake and pound it into the ground near the electrical connection. 

Cut the bottom out of a plastic bottle that has a cap and remove the cap

Put a zip tie on the wire next to the eletrical plug.

push the electrical plug up in the bottom of the plastic bottle and thread the zip tie end out the top of the bottle.  Now screw the cap back on over the zip tie end.  This holds the electrical connector in the bottle. 

Now put the plastic bottle over the wooden stake.  This holds it a few inches off the ground to stop the solar desalination.