Dongle Problems II

[Night Owl]

I need a little help please.  I downloaded the .exe file from ftdichip.com and ran it to install the drivers.  But when I plug in the dongle, I get a Windows Error Message "USB Device Not Recognized" telling me to click the message.  A popup window titled "USB Device Not Recognized" and in one of the ports, "Unknown Device" is in bold type.  Windows is telling me to reconnect the device and if that doesn't work, to replace the device.

I'm not 100% sure the PIC is programmed correctly.  My brother was using an old programmer, and it was giving him error messages.  He ordered a new programmer, but said I could try and see if it programmed correctly. 

Would an incorrectly programmed PIC cause this kind of error message, or could I have messed up some other way? 

[WWNF911]

Would an incorrectly programmed PIC cause this kind of error message, or could I have messed up some other way?

I don't believe so. Windows is recognizing the USB device which should be ready to go following installation of the drivers. If the PIC is not programmed correctly, Windows would recognize the USB device but you would not get any blinky flashy.

I'd try to download and install the drivers again. If that doesn't work you may have a bad USB component for your dongle and would need to replace it but I would start with the drivers first.

Other thing is to check and see if some other conflicts may be present that would prevent Windows from seeing your dongle/USB device.

Leon

[Night Owl]

*sigh* I reinstalled the driver as you suggested and get the same error.  Installed the driver on my laptop and it doesn't even register that something is connected.  Tried different USB cables and different physical USB sockets with no luck.  I pulled the PIC and tried again and I still get the same error so I think you might be right that the USB component is bad.  Which really sucks rocks since that is the most expensive part on the board. 

Does anyone else have a suggestion?  Or am I SOL and have to order another USB interface module?

[wjt3]

Contact technical support at DLP. We've had several bad USB adapters this year. DLP is very responsive. If they determine the adapter is bad, they will send you a replacement from Mouser. In my case, it was a bad connection from the USB connector to the board. Also, see the thread below in troubleshooting...Bill

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[Night Owl]

Thanks for the link.  I will have to go through all that step by step.  However I contacted DLP first, since today would be the only day I can contact them during their working hours and be next to both my computer and the device.  They told me to download and run the USB View program from their website.  His first guess was that the Product ID and Description ID was different.  However when I ran the program, all the settings were either 0X00 or 0X0000 and ConnectionStatus said DeviceFailedEnumeration.  He had me check to see if pins 3, 10, 11, and 12 were connected together.  They are, looking at the circuit board trace.  He said that those pins should be enough for Windows to recognize the board.

He asked if I had seen this circuit working, to which I replied personally no, but a number of people have and this is based on a proven design.  He seems to think that the circuit design is faulty, or the module is bad.  His suggestion is to purchase a new module, or send it back to them for testing.

Kinda sucks, since I wanted to use this for a Halloween display, but I guess it will have to wait until next year.  Hopefully I can get this working by Christmas. 

I'll run through the thread and all the troubleshooting tips.  But I suspect the module is bad, which means a lot of desoldering.  Ugh.

 

[Night Owl]

Ok, I have no power on the RS485 between pins 5 and 8.  I do have 1.4V  between pins 2 and 3 and 2 and 12.  I hooked it up to a powered USB hub to ensure enough power was being supplied, but no change.

I will reflow all the solder joints, but all look bright and shiny to me.  Anyone have other suggestions before I start desoldering?  I would appreciate it.
 

[wjt3]

OK. Because you have 1.4 volts between pins 2 and 12, it sounds like a connection (high resistance) problem on the USB adapter. Do this. Look on the bottom of the USB adapter. You'll see 4 pins from the USB connector that are soldered to the board. Plug the dongle in to your PC. Check between these pins for +5 volts. This isn't easy, because you only have about a quarter of an inch between the USB adapter and the dongle board. I'm not sure of the pin configuration of the USB connector. Put the negative lead from your voltmeter on one pin and check for voltage between the other three. Repeat this for the three remaining pins. Hit the pin and not the solder joint. If you get +5 volts on the connector pins, you know you're good up to that point. Now, unplug the dongle and check resistance between the +5 volt pin of the USB connector and pin 12 on the USB adapter board. Let us know what you find. I know this is frustrating. Hang in there. We'll do everything to get you up and running...Bill

[Night Owl]

Thanks for the help, I really appreciate it.

First I checked the USB cable from the computer: 5V between pin 1 and 4

I'll draw up a diagram later and post it for future troubleshooting efforts, but the pin-outs for the USB connector is
Pin 1: +5V DC
Pin 2: Data -
Pin 3: Data +
Pin 4: GND

Looking at the USB module upside down (easier to see the soldered pins of the USB connector)

Pin 1: left rear
Pin 2: right rear
Pin 3: right front
Pin 4: left front

Voltages:
1 - 4: 5V
2 - 4: 3.14V
3 - 4: 3.22V
2 - 3: 0V
1 - 2: 1.86V
1 - 3: 1.89V

Resistance between pin 1 on USB connector and Pin 12 of the USB module: 0 ohm
Pin 12 of the USB module to pin 4 of the USB connector: 5V
Pin 12 to pin 2 on USB module: 1.4 V (Just wanted to double check)
Resistance between pin 4 on USB connector and Pin 2 of USB module: Open.

Shouldn't pin 4 of the USB connector (GND) and pin 2 of the module have no resistance between them?   

[wjt3]

Correct. You should have very low resistance between pin 4 on the USB connector and pin 2 on the adapter. Now, to verify this is the problem, do this. Plug the dongle up to your PC. Turn the volume up on your PC. Take a small jumper wire and touch between pin 4 on the USB connector and pin 2 on the adapter. You're not shorting anything out. You're just completing the power circuit. If this is the bad connection, you should hear your computer recognize the adapter. Let us know...Bill

[Night Owl]

Yep that did it.  Connecting the two pins completed the circuit and the computer both recognizes it as a valid USB device and as COM 3.  Thank you SO much for the assistance!

Now to see if I can desolder this unit and send it back.

[wjt3]

Before you desolder, double check your solder joint on pin 2 of the adapter. If this doesn't do it, move on with desoldering. I used a Dremel tool with a cutting disk and a hacksaw blade. It sounds crude, but the hacksaw blade worked the best and caused less damage. If you have a sheet rock cutter with a hacksaw blade attached, I found this was best. Put the blade in the middle of the black plastic spacers between the adapter board and the pcb and start cutting slowly. Once you get all pins cut, remove the remaining plastic spacers from the pins left in the pcb. Grab each pin with needle nose pliers and hit the solder joint with your iron. The pins will pull right out. Next, use a desoldering iron like the one Radio Shack sells to blow the remaining solder from the pin hole. Hope this help...Bill

[knguyen916]

if you really want to use it for your halloween display i don't mind letting you borrow mine. Just cover shipping expenses. 

[Night Owl]

if you really want to use it for your halloween display i don't mind letting you borrow mine. Just cover shipping expenses. 

Wow, I really appreciate the offer.  But I don't think I am going to get to it this Halloween anyway.  I'm trying to hack a bunch of talking skulls so the jaws open and close automatically to the soundtrack.  Thanks!

[Night Owl]

Before you desolder, double check your solder joint on pin 2 of the adapter. If this doesn't do it, move on with desoldering. I used a Dremel tool with a cutting disk and a hacksaw blade. It sounds crude, but the hacksaw blade worked the best and caused less damage. If you have a sheet rock cutter with a hacksaw blade attached, I found this was best. Put the blade in the middle of the black plastic spacers between the adapter board and the pcb and start cutting slowly. Once you get all pins cut, remove the remaining plastic spacers from the pins left in the pcb. Grab each pin with needle nose pliers and hit the solder joint with your iron. The pins will pull right out. Next, use a desoldering iron like the one Radio Shack sells to blow the remaining solder from the pin hole. Hope this help...Bill

The joints I made to the dongle board looked good.  The pins on the top of the module all looked a bit iffy, but that could be due to solder oxidation vice a cold joint.  I ended up desolding the joints and cutting the pins close to the board.  Then put a little tension between the two boards and heating each pad and it slowly came loose.  However your method probably would have saved me a few burnt fingers.     Thanks again for your help!

[wjt3]

Glad you're making progress. Keep us updated...Bill