Author Topic: 5v Voltage regulator and extreme temperatures (need suggestions)  (Read 5359 times)

Offline wbuehler

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RJ,

I hate to hijack a thread but do you see any benefit in having a reset button on the low voltage side so the controller could be warm booted?
Just a thought and I know that I can always pull the power cord but most of the time if I am looking into an issue, I already have the case open and having a push button that to reset the logic side would be cool, this would keep from having to track down the end of the power cord.

Thanks

Bill

« Last Edit: December 14, 2009, by wbuehler »

Offline RJ

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I do not mind but it will cost. My question is does everyone want to do this with an additional cost? I just do not want to feature load the express to where it cost to much for people to build.

RJ
Innovation beats imitation - and it's more satisfying

Offline Brad

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RJ

If I may chime in....My controllers and power cords are under 8" of snow. I have had to reboot my computer and unplug power/flip breakers to reboot LE's (statement, not a complaint) when one controller has a problem.
I agree with Bill, it would be very handy to have the ability to cut power from inside the box.
In fact I already have plans to mod my current inclosure's and add a power switch inside. This may be a simpler solution than reworking the Ver4 pcb.

2 cents.

Brad
2007- 32 Ch Grinch, >6K lights...2008- 128 Ch Freestyle, 23,000 Lights, 2009- Lynx Freestyle & Lynx Express, 26K Lights....Wife thinks I'm nuts!

Offline RJ

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Then I will look at the cost effective way to accomplish this. I would not be cutting the high current power feed but the low current power for the logic system momentary. I do not want the logic permantly able to be off with power still applied as this is a danger of someone thing one of them is off and grabbing something they should not. So I am thinking a NC momentary open button for a reset. I do not want to do a pic chip software reset but a complete logic power reset.

What is the reason for the reboots?

RJ
Innovation beats imitation - and it's more satisfying

Offline wbuehler

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In my case sometimes the controller will lock, and the unlock trick will not work, which then requires a power cycle.

Offline memphislights

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Same as Bill, usually after a failed power up or using a bad ethernet cable sometimes.
It's not about more, it's about enough.

Offline Brad

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In my case sometimes the controller will lock, and the unlock trick will not work, which then requires a power cycle.


Same thing with me. Occasionally one of the LE's will lock or hang as I call it.  I'm not sure what the "unlock trick" is, so I shut everything down and reboot. Seems to work.

Brad
2007- 32 Ch Grinch, >6K lights...2008- 128 Ch Freestyle, 23,000 Lights, 2009- Lynx Freestyle & Lynx Express, 26K Lights....Wife thinks I'm nuts!

Offline memphislights

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Thanks for the hard work RJ. I don't however want to toss my version 3's aside.  :)

Is it possible to modifiy our older version boards with the newer regulator/ more temp forgiving parts?

Yes the LM3940T-3.3 david is pointed at can replace the 3.3 regulator to fix it on current pcbs. I do not mean for you to throw away your current pcbs just looking at improving newer ones.

The  LM3940T-3.3 is not avaliable from mouser so I am not using it on the new pcbs.

RJ
 


Mouser popped this up as a equivalent part...

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update:  Nevermind.  I was trying to understand the difference between the LDO vs standard versions of the VR.

« Last Edit: December 16, 2009, by memphislights »
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David_AVD

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A a quick look, it seems like that mouser part is ok.

Offline memphislights

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It does look like that the LD1117V33C might work as well, and it is 1/3 the price.

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Offline Hauvega

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The LD1117v33c has a different pinout. I am probably buy the LM3940t-3.3 since the pinout of the reg is correct.  I am looking to do a drop in instead of making mods.  Digi-key has cheaper shipping on small amounts of light parts using first class mail.
Eric Vega
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Starting all over again.

Offline wbuehler

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I found another way to warm the controllers this evening as the cold claimed 5 of them on start up.
I found that breathing on them 3 to 4 times will cause the 3.3 to wake up.  Yes as you can imagine you get some strange looks from the neighbors when they see you do this.  ;D

Bill


Offline KeithTarpley

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Greetings,,,

Talk about resuscitating devices!

Keith

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"Now I know the only foe is time." -Moody Blues

Offline memphislights

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I still have cold induced flickering with leds on a couple of units.  I didn't have a non-responding unit tonight though.  I believe that it is the 3.3v regulator close to the 0c temp specs.  2 7w c7 bulbs inside the enclosure seems to be working pretty well.  I just tried this tonight.

I'll try and get pictures tomorrow.  Basically it is 2 bulbs, and I use the clips on the socket to attach them to a paint stirrer, cut to fit snugly, that is wedged vertically in the case above the transformer.  It warmed the case up, and the flickering went away after about 10 minutes.  The show was still flicker free after about 2 hours with the lights on.
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Offline RJ

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It does look like that the LD1117V33C might work as well, and it is 1/3 the price.

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This is not a regulator that will work in the current pcbs it will be what is in the Ver 5 express pcbs.

RJ
Innovation beats imitation - and it's more satisfying