Express Ver 5

[RJ]

This is the Lynx Express Version 5 that I am about to order the proto pcbs for testing. These will be what is on the next coop.

There are a number of enhancements to improve or fix things.

1 - Replaced 3.3 volt regulator with one suited for colder climates.
2 - Added requested Reset push button to allow reseting the system with out unpluging it.
3 - TO220 parts solder pads where elongated to add area without losing seperation
4 - Few other pads where enlarged to make easier soldering such as the large 4700uf capacitor
5 - 5v good led was turned around to make all LEDS fit the same direction to lessen chance of mistakes.
6 - Added 47K 1/2 watt resistors across each output to help with LEDS so there will be no need for external snubbers to be added to your lights.
7 - Changed some pad holes sizes for tighter fits to help with assembly alignments.
8 - Changed socket part numbers to use 3m sockets with kinked solder tail to hold socket in for you while soldering.
9 - Since they do not make 6 pin versions of the above sockets I made the pad holes smaller for tighter fitting 6 pin sockets.
10 - Replaced the .1uf caps to better rated units for cold temps.

RJ

[WWNF911]

Can't see the PCB yet. typing this on my cell. Was just curious if V5 might incorporate a position of the PIC that might allow easier removal of the PIC while the LE is installed in the enclosure? If not, I'll be buying anyway.  just asking. Had situation this season and was difficult. Not impossible just difficult.

[RJ]

Can't see the PCB yet. typing this on my cell. Was just curious if V5 might incorporate a position of the PIC that might allow easier removal of the PIC while the LE is installed in the enclosure? If not, I'll be buying anyway.  just asking. Had situation this season and was difficult. Not impossible just difficult.

No it does not change.

1 - Why was it hard? are you using a different Case?
2 - Why remove the pic you can flash it in the unit with the header?

RJ

[KeithTarpley]

Greetings,,,

You might want to pick up one of the cheap chip pullers, if you expect to change chips more than once or twice.  They make things much easier.

Keith

[wbuehler]

You could also use a small piece of thread or silk under the IC and leave a bit of slack sticking out of the ends.  The ends can then be pulled to remove the chip.

Bill

[castortiu]

Great improvement RJ,

Pretty cool about the pads and the 47K resistors, that was in my wish list.

About remove the chip I also had some troubles to remove the Pic. When I finished my boards I plugged and they did not boot, didn’t know if the Pic was bad or was not programmed properly, I ran several iterations changing several Pics and reprogramming them until the 3.3V led turned on, was not sure what the problem was since the board boot with some Pics and not with others, was not really too hard to remove the Pic but it can take some time and some legs can be a little bended since the angle to access to the bottom of the PIC is large, especially after the board is assembled.

Programming the Pic on the board is a great feature, but could be nice to leave a small open space on the top of Pic to easy removal, especially for troubleshooting.

I’ll be ordering several of them when the co-op is open.

Gus.
 

[tpctech]

RJ,

I don't know if this has been sugested and probably to late for ver 5.  I also don't know if you have any outputs available.  But the addition of a "DMX Link connected LED" would be a nice addition.  I have remoted the status LED on my LOR units to the outside of the box.  I simply used a 2-pin header where the LED was to go and put a pigtail w on the LED with a 2-pin header plug (salvaged from a disposed PC) I makes it real easy to walk the yard make sure all of the boxes have signal.  This would also help with wireless also.  Just a thought!!

Have a great new year!

KEN

[Blackbeard]

Will the wireless PCBs be offered at the same time. I'd like to keep the same number of each (LE & EX/RX) always around in the event something changes on either for compatability.

steve

[RJ]

RJ,

I don't know if this has been sugested and probably to late for ver 5.  I also don't know if you have any outputs available.  But the addition of a "DMX Link connected LED" would be a nice addition.  I have remoted the status LED on my LOR units to the outside of the box.  I simply used a 2-pin header where the LED was to go and put a pigtail w on the LED with a 2-pin header plug (salvaged from a disposed PC) I makes it real easy to walk the yard make sure all of the boxes have signal.  This would also help with wireless also.  Just a thought!!

Have a great new year!

KEN

Ok,

do not have any pins avaliable but Working on it for you anyway.

RJ

[RJ]

Will the wireless PCBs be offered at the same time. I'd like to keep the same number of each (LE & EX/RX) always around in the event something changes on either for compatability.

steve

Wireless will not be avaliable until after the Ver 2.0 beta is done in about 3 months sorry.

RJ

[RJ]

Ok added Data Link Light,

There are a number of enhancements to improve or fix things.

1 - Replaced 3.3 volt regulator with one suited for colder climates.
2 - Added requested Reset push button to allow reseting the system with out unpluging it.
3 - TO220 parts solder pads where elongated to add area without losing seperation
4 - Few other pads where enlarged to make easier soldering such as the large 4700uf capacitor
5 - 5v good led was turned around to make all LEDS fit the same direction to lessen chance of mistakes.
6 - Added 47K 1/2 watt resistors across each output to help with LEDS so there will be no need for external snubbers to be added to your lights.
7 - Changed some pad holes sizes for tighter fits to help with assembly alignments.
8 - Changed socket part numbers to use 3m sockets with kinked solder tail to hold socket in for you while soldering.
9 - Since they do not make 6 pin versions of the above sockets I made the pad holes smaller for tighter fitting 6 pin sockets.
10 - Replaced the .1uf caps to better rated units for cold temps.
11 - Added Data Link led to show when data is present.

RJ

Ordered proto pcbs for testing

[WWNF911]

Can't see the PCB yet. typing this on my cell. Was just curious if V5 might incorporate a position of the PIC that might allow easier removal of the PIC while the LE is installed in the enclosure? If not, I'll be buying anyway.   just asking. Had situation this season and was difficult. Not impossible just difficult.

No it does not change.

1 - Why was it hard? are you using a different Case?
2 - Why remove the pic you can flash it in the unit with the header?

RJ

About the header thing RJ,... Pure genius!!!
One of the things I like the best about your designs. I had an instance this season where one of the arch controllers wouldn't work no matter what I tried. Let me be clear,... it worked and then suddenly wouldn't the following night. The show ran with half of the arches out for the night then the next day I got off work and troubleshot it but ran out of time. Long story short I had isolated it down to the last ditch effort,... changing the pic. I did so and the controller sprang back into life. A lesson learned was that I recalled that even before I mounted it in the case it was difficult to pull the pic. I usually do so with a small screw driver. (sorry Bill the thread method you mentioned sounds like something I might have tried before I learned that you can easily damage the pins and once that is done they can also just as easily break off trying to bend them back) However, on this design there are things in the way that prevent you from doing this. On the one end the header that I love sooo much and on the other the heatsink. So, I tried giving up the hillbilly method and was off to find my chip extractor like Keith had mentioned. Unfortunately, I had been a bit to thorough and had left no clearance between the PIC and the socket. So the chip puller wouldn't work either. To make matters worse I had the clever idea of trying to put my controllers in an less noticable spot making them very close to the ground. Like I said, not impossible but difficult. Took about a half hour to find something that would work enough clearance to allow the chip puller to work. I think thats the way to go from now on. I'll just have to remember not to push the PIC so far down in the socket. (same case almost everyone is using by the way) Sorry to ramble. Thanks for your time.

Leon

PS - The PIC I removed could quite possibly turn out to be good after all. All this happened prior to people noticing the problems with the temps and it was quite cold then. After that I adopted a different method of getting the show ready which included turning things on around the warmest part of the day. For the controllers that were stubborn, I just warmed up the regulator heatsinks with my fingers (as you suggested) and all was well.  

[RJ]

Ok got you,

 So let me help you guys out. 

Go to Radio shack and buy one of their cheap chip puller tools. Then using a file taper to an edge the very tip of the teeth. But only file the top of them leave the bottom flat. and only do this for a short distence so it is a sharp angle on the end.

When you squeeze it now even when the chip is done tight is levels the chip up and lets you pull them with no problems.

RJ

[kylec]

Awesome improvements to an already amazing design!

Kyle

[ThaiWay]

Stupid question #233315:

What does the Data Link LED actually indicate?

John