Express Ver 5

[abell]

I would like a clarification on Data.

If my board is actually receiving a wireless data signal will that light glow? I would love it if it did. I could care less if just letting me know through cat5. Its the wireless connection that I would like to know.

[RJ]

The LED will tell you that it sees the Long break from the DMX signal at the PIC. This is not normal possible in normal data streams so it should only exist in DMX streams. The problem with the wireless is that if the receiver is powered up it is sending out DMX no matter if it gets wireless infromation or not it sends its current data (all off) so the test function says there is DMX even if you are not in touch with a TX.

This is because there is DMX there. The New led is just a permant way to see the same thing. I am in beta of a modified wireless firmware that handles this so the leds can work correctly.

Also the ver 2.0 EX / RX will have an led indicator of if it is receiving wireless Data to it so this will show what you want. 

RJ

[joshuashu]

Also the ver 2.0 EX / RX will have an led indicator of if it is receiving wireless Data to it so this will show what you want. 

RJ


Will the previous Pcb's work for version 2 or do we need new PCB's?

[tbone321]

Version 2 is a new PCB.

[Nic]

Is the version 5 board still 240v ready? If so exactly what modification is required?

[rrowan]

Is the version 5 board still 240v ready? If so exactly what modification is required?

Please see the LE manual in the wiki

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Rick R.

[RJ]

Is the version 5 board still 240v ready? If so exactly what modification is required?

Along with what Rick showed you there are another 16 resistors (snubber resistors) that must be either be left off or changed to use 240volt. We will get a write up in the manual for the V5. These cost very little.

RJ

[bmsgaffer86]

I realize it is too late to modify the ver. 5 coop, but I was curious as to something.

Seeing as this deals with high voltage and fragile electronics out in the environment, is there a reason that each channel does not have a fuse? I'm curious because it scared me this winter when running shows with old extension cords and such. It was pouring down freezing rain on new years eve eve and I didnt want to smoke my whole board because of one bad cord. And it was too late to get a new one.


Is it a cost thing? I would easily pay the $0.30 or so per channel for them. I guess I was just looking to see what the general consensus and RJ's opinon is on that whole thing.

Thanks for a great board (forum AND lynx)!

[cmorda]

I'm not sure I like the idea of individual channel fuses myself. I think if you are concerned about shorts to ground in the rain your GFCI will take care of that WAY before you overload the board.

Chris

[knguyen916]

agreed, a simple GFCI will protect you from any damage done to the board. If you don't have them I suggest you think about adding them in. 

I'm not sure I like the idea of individual channel fuses myself. I think if you are concerned about shorts to ground in the rain your GFCI will take care of that WAY before you overload the board.

Chris

[rcouto]

Well, I too agree that you should plug your LE to a GFCI outlet however that only protect the LE's input and does not protect any of the 16 channels.  Individuals fuses would.  I seriously doubt that some of you are putting GFCI's on all your channels.

I too would like to hear from RJ on the reasoning for not having any fuses.

Personally and due to the fairly low cost of the boards, I have elected to take my chances and not to protect the individual channels.  I would however not hesitate to add a fuse or an inline GFCI on a worrisome channel.
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These are expensive hence the fuse question.

Ricardo

[scharbon]

You have fuses on each light strand if you use minis.   If you are talking about putting a fuse on each individual channel between the power out and the triac, I suspect the cost would be substantially more than $.30 per channel.  First you would have to buy the fuse holder and then the fuse.  Then you would have to increase the size of the board (more cost) and then pay for the new set up fee (~$100).  Al of that for a marginal if not negligible improvement in safety that is already afforded by the GFCI, the LE Main fuse(s), and the light string fuse.

Steve

[RJ]

I think everyones answers pretty well covers it. Are you aware of Christmas light controllers that DO fuse each output? I am not, Even LOR who is commercial and by far the largest controller company does not have fuses on the outputs. And as stated it is many times the $.30 quoted to add it. the fuses are in the strings themself just as the Express has fuses of  its own fuses. It should be connected to a GFCI to protect us all.

You see a GFCI on the line out to the Express does protect the 16 channels. If you grab a bare light cord and get a shock it is likely going from the hot side to the earth your standing on. In this case since the GFCI detects more current going out the hot leg to the express than the current coming back in on the neutral side it shuts power off in a big hurry. This saves you and likely the Express itself since most of the time a dead short in that short time will not damage the unit.

You see the triac used if you look at the spec sheet can survive a 63 Amp surge for 16.7 ms and a GFCI is a very fast piece of equipment.  So if I fuse a channel and use a 4 amp fuse then you will need to pull more than 4 amps for a while for it to blow. Since this is 100's of times what it takes to kill you then you can be shocked to death with the new fused system proposed. On the other hand if we use a GFCI to protect the channels by putting the feed to the express on it we just saved your life. 

Hope this helps.

RJ

 

[bmsgaffer86]

Oh it does. I was not really concerned about the shock value so much (I did have GFCI, but everytime it rains I loose the circuit, so I need an alternative form of protection). I am more concerned about extension cord shorting. THAT would destroy a channel because they dont have built in fuses.

As someone mentioned, and I kinda agree, is the low cost of the board in that sort of situation -being as rare as it is- you would just replace the board.

Thanks for your insight guys!

P.S. GFCI's will only protect from electrocutions, not short circuits. *for those that may not know* they measure the current difference between the Line and Neutral wires and so only if current goes elsewhere (ground) will they trip. If the current is just going between those wires it will not trip. Thus the circuit breaker, which will trip on a short but not till well over 20 amps.

[satskier]

Odds are good you will have a leak to ground before you develop a short in your line cord, so the GFI will trip.  If you actually short the cord the fuse on the LE may go before the Triac goes again your protected.  If you do burn out the triac, open, then it's not a large task to replace it. 

I get a hint of "I'm going to remove the GFI because it's tripping too much." rather than remove the GFI improve the weather proofing of your connections.  I think this may be a topic worth exploring and adding to the wiki.

A final thought, you can always add in-line fuse holders.