Express Ver 5

[austindave]

The problem with doing that is then you would need a switch capable of handling the full current load that could be applied to the right hand side of the controller which is 15 amps. 

Right. I envisioned a 20A DPST normally closed momentary contact toggle switch like You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login. A little pricey at digikey at ~$10 a pop, but it could probably be found for less elsewhere.

A cheaper option would be a regular "on/off" switch (non-momentary contact) - digikey has these with 20A capacity for about $4). I've seen rubber boots for these sorts of switches so it could be mounted through the case.

However, if mounted through-case, they wouldn't be tamper proof (though I'd think tampering with the momentary contact switch would only have a short term impact on the show). Mounting it inside the case prevents tampering (assuming you lock the case - if you don't, then much worse than flipping the switch might be expected).

--Dave

[austindave]

Can't you reset the PIC by connecting a normally-open pushbutton between pins 1 and 3 of the programming (ICSP) header?  That's much easier and safer than dealing with the incoming power.
/mike

Maybe so. But I don't have a schematic (for all EX versions) to confirm - and wouldn't recommend others make circuit mods even if I did.

But I do know that inserting a switch in the power feed would provide the same function as unplugging the controller -but making it much more convenient (like if your power cords are buried under 8" of snow).
And sure, messing with low voltage stuff is safer than high voltage stuff. But since you've built the controller & wired-up all the high voltage connections yourself, you (hopefully) know that you have to be careful when doing this. And when you need to reset the controller, since you're opening the box to get to the reset switch anyway, I don't see that flipping a (properly installed and insulated) switch is any more dangerous than pushing a low-voltage reset button buried on the board (no offense, RJ - the reset switch is a great idea).

Nor am I saying that everybody should go out and do this - I'm just saying that this is an option for those who need to be able to reset / disconnect older version controllers without having to go back to unplug it from the wall outlet.

So don't do this, if you aren't comfortable doing it. 

--Dave

[Caliente Christmas]

Quote“(Properly installed and insulated) switch is any more dangerous than pushing a low-voltage reset button buried on the board (no offense, RJ - the reset switch is a great idea).”

Here is just a thought and I am not recommending any modifications to any of RJ instructions,
 
Just thinking outside the box and a possible solution for those whose environment isn’t so friendly.

With RJ's Push Button switch for V5, if you were to extend the push button to the exterior of the case (Drilling a hole and mount the push button to the case), and then connect wires from the push button to the board. That would avoid in opening the case.

Again, this is just an idea that has not being tested.    so please don't take this information and run. 
YV

[RJ]

I am sorry, Is you cases doors hard to open? I guess I just am not getting why you need the reset outside the case? As far as the reset push button it is located way outside of  the danagerous voltages and you are seperated by a big metal wall from getting into it. I at first did not think it was needed at all when brought up but when the ice and snow issue was explain it became more of a real issue to me. As far as being worried about adding it to the older units why? I am ready to bet if it had not been added to V5 no one would be talking about this. Every time we add something to a new version everyone gets caught up in the "mine does not have that" mindset. What were you doing about it up to now?

Please do not read any thing bad into what I am saying it is just thoughts that hit me when I read the thread. They are only meant to make you think.

RJ

[Caliente Christmas]

Personally i like your set up,  and RJ i take advice anytime from anyone, this whole thing is a large learning curve. 

when i typed it, it was just thought.  I was waiting for a responce to either it was a good idea or just "WHAT THE HECK ARE YOU THINKING"  enough said.  thanks for all the cool toys we can play with. 

YV

[Jeffl]

I really don't want the reset button. (well not really)  Once I deploy a controller I don't want to see it until I box it up to put it away.  I agree that some of the extra features can cause extra headaches and waste time.

[Brad]

I will install a normally closed pushbutton switch inside the case hard wired to the positive 3.3v ok LED, and the 1uf cap just north of the pic. Of course I'll have to cut the trace too.
Since it's the low voltage side it doesn't have to be a more expensive 15 or 20A switch.


 

[deplanche]

I used a remote controlled switch (the type that is in the Christmas aisles with all the green extension cords) between the LE and the GFCI.  The purpose was to be able to turn on and off some lights that were constant on during the show (I ran out of LEs to make them blink).  But it also served as a type of reset button for the LE.  Sure beats opening the case and letting snow or rain in, or cutting a hole in the case which could do the same.  I don't think I ever NEEDED to reset the LE, but I did each day by default when turning on and off the other lights.

[n1ist]

Brad-

  Check the board when you get it - I can almost guarantee that trace doesn't connect to the reset switch but to a via right below it.  The ICSP header is a better place to get MCLR* and doesn't require any trace cutting.  For that, use a NO button.

/mike

[Brad]

Brad-

  Check the board when you get it - I can almost guarantee that trace doesn't connect to the reset switch but to a via right below it.  The ICSP header is a better place to get MCLR* and doesn't require any trace cutting.  For that, use a NO button.

/mike

Mike,

There are several ways to do it. I was just pointing out RJ's method. Simple and clean. I already have 4 Ver 4 boards. I'm not waiting to receive any at this time.

Thanks,

Brad

[RJ]

Video of test of the Ver5 in coldest temps I can create.

RJ

[rrowan]

Video of test of the Ver5 in coldest temps I can create.

RJ

RJ

You crack me up LOL

Cooool Video

Cheers

Rick R.

[RJ]

Video of test of the Ver5 in coldest temps I can create.

RJ

RJ

You crack me up LOL

Cooool Video

Cheers

Rick R.

please do tell?

  That I live in Florida where it doesn't get that cold? That I am the only person in the world with a christmas show in their Freezer?  We want to know. 

[rrowan]

Video of test of the Ver5 in coldest temps I can create.

RJ

RJ

You crack me up LOL

Cooool Video

Cheers

Rick R.

please do tell?

  That I live in Florida where it doesn't get that cold? That I am the only person in the world with a christmas show in their Freezer?  We want to know. 

Light show in the Freezer

btw: I hope you remembered to put the temp back to its normal setting.

Cheers

Rick R.

[KeithTarpley]

Greetings,,,

Yummy!  512 flavors of ice cream!  All in sync!

Keith