No 3volt or 5 volt LED on Power up

[lineman]

Need some help trouble shootin, I don't have any 3 volt or 5 volt leds lit up on LEv5 also the transformer gets extremly hot , here are some pic,s

[n1ist]

That sure sounds like a short - don't leave it plugged in for more than a few seconds at a time to avoid burning things out.  The capacitors look like they are in the right way.  I can't see enough of the bridge rectifier (the round critter above the big capacitor), but I'd check to make sure it's in correctly.  Also verify that the two regulators (with the silver heatsinks) are facing the right way and are the right ones.  Do any of the other parts (especially the bridge rectifier and regulators) get hot?
/mike

[lineman]

The bridge rect. is in correct + on the +  check to see if it was gittin hot and it started to get warm along with the trans so I poweed off

[austindave]

As Mike says, it *looks* like the components are in right (though we can't see the rectifier or the regulators).

Look for shorts in your soldering - bridging two pins.

The glare from the lighting (flash?) makes it very difficult to see enough detail on the solder joints to tell if there's a bridge - though I do see a couple of possible ones. It also looks like there might be a couple of joints that weren't soldered (though that shouldn't cause the problem you're seeing - and it could just be my imagination anyway).

I'd suggest you go back & touch-up any joints that might be questionable.

--Dave

[n1ist]

Did you check the regulators?  If the LEDs are in correctly and not lighting, that implies that the problem (short, wrong or reversed component) is somewhere between the transformer and regulators (electrically).  There's not much there; just the bridge, big filter cap, and regulators.   The regulator pinouts are different, so maybe they are swapped?
/mike

[lineman]

Did you check the regulators?  If the LEDs are in correctly and not lighting, that implies that the problem (short, wrong or reversed component) is somewhere between the transformer and regulators (electrically).  There's not much there; just the bridge, big filter cap, and regulators.   The regulator pinouts are different, so maybe they are swapped?
/mike

I am pretty sure the 7805 and ld1117 are correct but to verify how can I do this with out desoldering the heat sink so I can read them More PICS

[Dennis Cherry]

It is hard to remove the heat sink.

When building by LE's I took a pencil and on the heat sink tab marked them 3.3 & 5, then inserted the appropriate regulator in the heat sink.

[austindave]

If the LEDs are in correctly and not lighting, that implies that the problem (short, wrong or reversed component) is somewhere between the transformer and regulators (electrically).  There's not much there; just the bridge, big filter cap, and regulators.   

Mike,

Sorry, but that's not correct. Everything "down-stream" of the regulators is also in the circuit & must be checked. Note that the LEDs connect from the regulator outputs to ground - they don't "feed" the rest of the circuitry (they're effectively in parallel with the rest of the down-stream components). Any shorts "down-stream" of the regulators will draw enough current to "kill" the transformer output (preventing the LEDs from lighting).

Lineman,

Again, check your solder joints first. After touching them up, making sure there aren't any solder bridges, then you might need to check the regulators. The only way I know to do that is to de-solder the heat sinks & remove them. In my opinion, that's a last resort.

--Dave

[Jeffl]

I know this has nothing to do with it but; is it really important to solder the heat sink to the board?  It appears they would have the same effectiveness even if they were not.

[austindave]

I know this has nothing to do with it but; is it really important to solder the heat sink to the board?  It appears they would have the same effectiveness even if they were not.

Electrically, no - but mechanically, yes. If / when the LE gets bounced around, the mass of the heat sinks could cause the regulators to bend over, possibly breaking a lead or shorting something out. So, it's a good idea to solder them down.

--Dave

[lineman]

Ok I have resoldered everything still no go did a little testing not long though hope I didn't burn up anything anyhoo First Bridge rec. HOT between legs is 1.5 volts, on the trans also hot  from neutral on power cord to pin 1 nothin pin2 120 volts pin 3 nothin pin4 120 volts PINS 5,6,7,8 about 8 volts hope this helps I guess next step desolder 3.3 reg and 5v reg but I will wait for yalls suggestion THANKS FOR THE HELP

[RJ]

Pictures look good. I think it is likely the regs are swapped. Start with desoldering just one heat sink. You do not need to remove the regulator to get the heatsink off.  It will take lots of heat because it is a heat sink so it will get rid of the heat.

RJ

[lineman]

Pictures look good. I think it is likely the regs are swapped

 The regs are where there suppose to be I took a pair needle nose and pulled up on the front lip of the heatsink and verified they were correct then bent the metal tap back down hope this was ok not any good at desoldering anyhoo whats should I do next I did notice the LD1117 on the PCB did not match the reg it say LD33cv I believe in a post RJ said thats because they did not have room for the whole # but it is where the LD1117 goes. Thanks for Helping ME

PS I looked at the legs when I had the tap up no solder bridges there

[KeithTarpley]

Greetings,,,

The 5 volt reg was actually the 5 volt and not a triac?

Keith

[lineman]

Greetings,,,

The 5 volt reg was actually the 5 volt and not a triac?

Keith

It says L7805abv it was packaged with the LD1117 that is the 5 volt right