Question on V2 Board

[z327]

Just below the Oscillator there is a spot labeled for a 1k resistor. I did not see it in the BOM or in the build manual in the wiki. I assume this is required for operation?

[RJ]

It is for the data led and might have been missed. it will work without it but the data led will not.
Can you give me a link to the bom you are using.

RJ

[z327]

You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login

I uploaded the direct BOM from the wiki to Mouser and then compared parts to the manual on the wiki.

Also can you check my PIC programming. I have attached a screen capture.

I've applied 24V but the power LED is not lighting. I've checked the positive terminals and they all have 24V, the voltage regulator is putting out 5V (I did install the heatsink). Pointers on where to trouble shoot are always welcome.

My plan is to use this controller for my mighty mini's. The Lynx controllers work great with my LOR and iDMX set up so I figured the MR16 would be the best way to get the MM's into my show.

[RJ]

Ok so that I understand, You are having problems with this not working?

What are the symptoms?
Can you post some pictures to look over?

RJ

[bisquit476]

I think you should have a checksum other than 4 zero's. The all protect thing isn't allowing the programming to work, I had that happen before, but I don't remember which PIC it did it on, I think it was the one for the MR16 though. I just remember that I had to erase the hex file, close the programmer, reinstall the hex file and all worked as it should.

[RJ]

I think you should have a checksum other than 4 zero's. The all protect thing isn't allowing the programming to work, I had that happen before, but I don't remember which PIC it did it on, I think it was the one for the MR16 though. I just remember that I had to erase the hex file, close the programmer, reinstall the hex file and all worked as it should.

Good catch! I did not notice it.

RJ

[z327]

I think you should have a checksum other than 4 zero's. The all protect thing isn't allowing the programming to work, I had that happen before, but I don't remember which PIC it did it on, I think it was the one for the MR16 though. I just remember that I had to erase the hex file, close the programmer, reinstall the hex file and all worked as it should.

I'm unable to get a good write now. PICKIT2 gets a error at a memory address, so I guess I will be ordering another PIC from mouser.

[z327]

Ok so that I understand, You are having problems with this not working?

What are the symptoms?
Can you post some pictures to look over?

RJ

I'll be ordering another PIC, but I still may have some other issues. Should there be 5V at the output spades when the unit is powered up and no PIC is installed? If yes then maybe it is just a PIC problem. I did not even try to address the unit through Vixen when the power LED failed to come on when I applied 24V. I have a laser thermometer, so I will be able to get some good temperature readings off of the 5V regulator using 24V power, once I get the unit squared away.

I'm still not sure if I am supposed to install a 1K resister below the Oscillator.

I don't see any solder bridges using my magnifier. The MOSFETS were a little hard to solder with all the copper under them grabbing the heat. Please let me know if you see any errors on my part placement etc....

[RJ]

Ok so that I understand, You are having problems with this not working?

What are the symptoms?
Can you post some pictures to look over?

RJ

I'll be ordering another PIC, but I still may have some other issues. Should there be 5V at the output spades when the unit is powered up and no PIC is installed? If yes then maybe it is just a PIC problem. I did not even try to address the unit through Vixen when the power LED failed to come on when I applied 24V. I have a laser thermometer, so I will be able to get some good temperature readings off of the 5V regulator using 24V power, once I get the unit squared away.

I'm still not sure if I am supposed to install a 1K resister below the Oscillator.

I don't see any solder bridges using my magnifier. The MOSFETS were a little hard to solder with all the copper under them grabbing the heat. Please let me know if you see any errors on my part placement etc....

The ouput + spades will all have what ever is put in on the DC input. They are wired striaght to it. The unit switches he ground side of the circuit.

The red power led should be on if you have 5 volts as it is just in line with the 5v side through the 180 ohm resistor. If not most likely reason would be it is in backwards. The longer leg should be in the hole with the + sign on it.

It does sound a little like a bad pic as rare as that is.

RJ

[budude]

There looks to be a chunk of solder on the back side, middle, where the spade lugs start - can't tell if it's actually touching the solder mask underneath...

[z327]

Ok so that I understand, You are having problems with this not working?

What are the symptoms?
Can you post some pictures to look over?

RJ

I'll be ordering another PIC, but I still may have some other issues. Should there be 5V at the output spades when the unit is powered up and no PIC is installed? If yes then maybe it is just a PIC problem. I did not even try to address the unit through Vixen when the power LED failed to come on when I applied 24V. I have a laser thermometer, so I will be able to get some good temperature readings off of the 5V regulator using 24V power, once I get the unit squared away.

I'm still not sure if I am supposed to install a 1K resister below the Oscillator.

I don't see any solder bridges using my magnifier. The MOSFETS were a little hard to solder with all the copper under them grabbing the heat. Please let me know if you see any errors on my part placement etc....

The ouput + spades will all have what ever is put in on the DC input. They are wired striaght to it. The unit switches he ground side of the circuit.

The red power led should be on if you have 5 volts as it is just in line with the 5v side through the 180 ohm resistor. If not most likely reason would be it is in backwards. The longer leg should be in the hole with the + sign on it.

It does sound a little like a bad pic as rare as that is.

RJ

Finally got the Hex code to write to the PIC and verify and it has the same check sum as the hex code. Not sure how, I must have tried twenty times and got all kinds of voltage or unable to write messages. I'm guessing the ICSP adapter may have a problem. I put the jumpers on according to the directions but maybe I should have done something else.

Wired up my CAT5 cables to spades and plugged everything in. Channel 6 and Channel 11 are not coming on.

In the morning I plan to check check all the solder joints, hopefully its an easy fix.

The 5V voltage regulator is running at 90F according to my laser temp gauge. That is with 5 MM's running at 100% (except for two channels).

[z327]

Thanks for all the help. All channels are working and I now have 5 LOR, 5 Lynx and a MR16 (176 channels total) all playing nicely together. Now I guess its time to build the TX/RX boards.