1 cord or 2?

[IndianaChristmas]

Is it just plain ole safer to use 2 cords to power the Express unit?
Is the one cord mod done by most folks?

Thanks,
Eric

[inzeos]

I think choosing between 1 or 2 power input is primarily based on what you intend to draw from the Lynx Express.  If you are only putting a few small sets of LEDs off of the express you can probably get away using one power input; however, if you are using tons of incandescent lights you obviously would need more available power, which would imply wanting 2 inputs.

[PJNMCT]

I don't even do the PCB mod. I just wire the two connectors in parallel...take the input power to one connector and then add a long jumper to the other one. Make sure the polarity (hot & neutral) is right at both connectors! Again this is just for the lower amp rating.

-Paul

[rm357]

The 50 bulb strings I bought at Wallgreens last year only draw about 0.1 amp per string (these are supposedly a more efficient design) . I could put 9 of those per channel and still be just under 15 amps for the LE... but that all depends on your lights - a single 300 watt halogen bulb draws just shy of 3 amps by itself.  If you are not familiar with such things, I recommend getting a "Kill A Watt" or similar wattmeter to measure the amperage of what you plan to put on each channel and see how it adds up... If you are pushing more than 15 amps, you need to use the two cord configuration. Less than 15 amps, one cord will be fine.

btw - the 300 bulb icicle light sets I have draw 0.6 amp each. Each type/brand of light set is different and needs to be checked. If you can find a wattage on the package, divide that by 115 to get the amps. For example a 60 watt bulb draws just a little more than 0.5 amp...

RM

[wbuehler]

I don't even do the PCB mod. I just wire the two connectors in parallel...take the input power to one connector and then add a long jumper to the other one. Make sure the polarity (hot & neutral) is right at both connectors! Again this is just for the lower amp rating.

-Paul

That's what I do, that way I can easily make the controller a dual input by removing the jumper and adding a second power cord.

[inzeos]

The 50 bulb strings I bought at Wallgreens last year only draw about 0.1 amp per string (these are supposedly a more efficient design) . I could put 9 of those per channel and still be just under 15 amps for the LE... but that all depends on your lights - a single 300 watt halogen bulb draws just shy of 3 amps by itself.  If you are not familiar with such things, I recommend getting a "Kill A Watt" or similar wattmeter to measure the amperage of what you plan to put on each channel and see how it adds up... If you are pushing more than 15 amps, you need to use the two cord configuration. Less than 15 amps, one cord will be fine.

btw - the 300 bulb icicle light sets I have draw 0.6 amp each. Each type/brand of light set is different and needs to be checked. If you can find a wattage on the package, divide that by 115 to get the amps. For example a 60 watt bulb draws just a little more than 0.5 amp...

RM

I think in general it is good to have a "Kill A Watt" type device, which you can load test all your existing and new lights.  Then label them with a good quality outdoor rated label with the actual draw or an ID number, which you can reference back to a spreadsheet.  That way you can really truly understand how your loads should be spread across channels and controllers.

[Kwajtony]

A kill-o-watt does a fairly good job of reading power draw even for one strand of led's from my experience.  Since my setup is 99.5% led I only use single power sources.  I used the fixed jumper (on the board) for my first LE, but subsequent boards have been without.

R,,
Tony "C"

[PJNMCT]

A kill-o-watt does a fairly good job of reading power draw even for one strand of led's from my experience.  Since my setup is 99.5% led I only use single power sources.  I used the fixed jumper (on the board) for my first LE, but subsequent boards have been without.

R,,
Tony "C"

I second the thought about the "Kill-o-watt". I recommend it to everyone here. It's so simple, I don't know how I did without it in the past...

-Paul

[jnealand]

Regarding one cord or two without regard to what you are going to put on it "this show".  I never know what I will be putting on any particular controller from one year to the next since I often move items around in my yard to new locations.  I think it is safer to put two cords on the controller and then if you have a small load on that controller, for any given show, just put both cords into one of the 3 way connectors that you can buy at any hardware store or Wally World.  Now you are prepared no matter which way you want to go.  I use mostly LEDs so not only could I use one cord, but I can put multiple controllers on one outlet, but better safe than sorry.  We are not talking a lot of money here, especially compared to everything else we have in our inventories.

[Made2Rock]

I get 6 foot extension cords from wally world and will use 2 of these on each express box. I cut the end off and I'm left with a 6' sealed plug that will give me 13 amps to each side of 8 outputs. From year to year you'll change things but this way I am covered for all but the most demanding of outputs.

As you can see everyone has their own way of doing it. The important part is make sure you don't end up pushing to much current thru the wire. This will cause the wire to heat up and you'll find yourself looking for some mashmellows