Author Topic: Bad Triacs  (Read 2934 times)

Offline RJ

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Re: Bad Triacs
« Reply #15 on: December 20, 2010, »
Yes the good thing about this way is you can not create enough force with the air to damage a trace like you can with pulling. And when the lead comes out it is only because it is free so it does not pull on anything.

RJ
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Offline Jimm

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Re: Bad Triacs
« Reply #16 on: December 20, 2010, »
I had one fail also.  I have 16 Expresses so that's 256 triacs and 1 failed.  Not too bad.  The load was only one set of mini 100's and it has not been very cold.  I will take a look and see who the Mfg. was and post.
Jim

Offline Dennis Cherry

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Re: Bad Triacs
« Reply #17 on: December 20, 2010, »
The way I remove mine is.

Remove the screw and nut from the triac.

Using a solder sucker, remove as much solder as possible from the pads.

Now bend the triac slightly away from the heatsink.

Touch the soldering iron to one pad while slightly rocking the triac back and forth until the lead in the pad starts moving, remove the soldering iron from the pad but keep rocking the triac until the solder cools.

Do the same with the other 2 leads, if done right all three leads will now move in the solder pads holes.

Now just take the triac and move it side to side with needle nose pliers while  slightly pulling it out of the board.

The new triac will now fit the holes made with out doing anymore solder removal.

Put the screw and nut back on the triac and tighten.

Solder the 3 leads and trim the leads.

Inspect for solder bridges or solder splash.


« Last Edit: December 20, 2010, by Dennis Cherry »
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Offline crazybob

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Re: Bad Triacs
« Reply #18 on: December 20, 2010, »
Thanks for the instructions. Will be making repairs after the season.