Problem

[jess_her]

I'm wrong   Pin 28 is power pin 27 is ground  pin 1 is reset    

so on the pic
pin 1 to pin 27 about 3 volts
pin 1 to pin 28  0 volts

I so wish I had a schematic of this board



So so sorry

[jess_her]

OK if any trust is left, Check the resistance of your volt meter leads (hold them together)  to see if you have  <1ohm. Check voltage on pin13 and pin12 of the SSA1046 display driver. Should be 5 volts if more than 5.5 we got problems. From Pin 12 to to pin 24 and pin 12 to pin 23 check voltage we should see something, These are the data lines to the display driver. Big guess here should see 1.5 to 3.5 volts. If it is close to 0 or 5 volts we got problems back at the pic.  The 2700  cap,  check from pin 12 to both sides of the cap 0 volts on one side and something on the other side which goes to pin 2 of the display driver. If you don't get anything here don't panic I'm just  curious you may not have the right type of meter.
 Let me know, I'm here for you buddy 

[mnarel]

I replaced the 2700pf cap with no results other than to learn that I REAAALLLLLY don't want to be replacing components unless pretty certain it'll solve the problem.  I destroyed the old (and probably good) cap getting it out, almost scratched the daylights out of the boad trying to clear enough solder from the holes to get the new one in, almost destroyed the new one doing the same and finally got it connected, but only by seating it a mm or so into the board face and soldering it there 

...and that was one 2 pin cap.... I can't imagine successfully replacing a 28 pin pic socket at this point.   Not without hours and hours of practice and work anyway.

[jess_her]

Yea it can get tough with out the right tools. But there are some good ones reasonable.  Me I like to use flushing side cutters and solder wick being carefull about not to much heat. ( staying on the board to long)

[RJ]

Can you pm me and lets set up a time to meet in the teamspeak chat and I will help you troubleshoot it.

RJ

[mnarel]

No solution yet... Just taking the day off from solder fumes.   If I ever figure is one out I'll post what it was and how it was found just so everyone will know should it come up again.

[mcangeli]

 Was this le part of the coop?

If it was you do not have to program the pic.

[LondoB5]

Did you guys ever figure this one out? It would be good information on what exactly was wrong in case someone else runs into the same issue.

[mnarel]

I have not resolved this one yet but I will definitely come back and share what the problem was once I do.  I put it aside for the last week or so to work on some other stuff and to be able to come back to it fresh  (I was getting to the point where I was afraid I would just crack the board in half so I figured I'd best back off).

[Dholley]

I have the same problem as spider326, I tired to install the firmware and got the the following message:

Program operation of Program Memory Failed.
Address 0X0, read 0X0, expected 0X200.

I have attached a screen shot of the message.

This if for an Express 4. Is the firmware the same regardless of the version?

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Danny

[Dholley]

Okay I was able to update the firmware.  I did not choose the correct device in the drop down menu and I believe that was why I was getting the error message.

So the Mode and Select LED's are working but when I ran a test in Vixen no lights.

Here is what I have so far:

1. I have checked the com port settings and matched those to Vixen
2. I have the terminated jumper on. I am testing only one Express
3. The Wireless jumper is not on
4. I have tested the USB Dongle with another express to confirm it is working
5. This is an Express Version 4

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

[RJ]

Okay I was able to update the firmware.  I did not choose the correct device in the drop down menu and I believe that was why I was getting the error message.

So the Mode and Select LED's are working but when I ran a test in Vixen no lights.

Here is what I have so far:

1. I have checked the com port settings and matched those to Vixen
2. I have the terminated jumper on. I am testing only one Express
3. The Wireless jumper is not on
4. I have tested the USB Dongle with another express to confirm it is working
5. This is an Express Version 4

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

The wireless jumper says remove for wireless. You need it on and this should fix your issue.

RJ

[Dholley]

Hi RJ.

Correct.  I put it on but still no lights.  This is a board I recently put together and received the parts approximately 3 weeks ago. For the LE 4 is a jumper suppose to be installed from one of the legs of the 3.3 regulator to one of the legs of the 5.0 regulator? If so is there a picture of this connection?

Thanks!

Danny

[RJ]

Not to start off. It was done to solve a cold temp issue. I have replacement 3.3 regulators that solve this with no modification to the pcb. I can send you them if you need them but the board will work as is until it gets in freezing conditions.


Can you post good close ups of the board so we can try to start fixing it.

RJ

[Dholley]

Hi RJ,

I did not have power to the right side of the board and the only channel I was testing was 16, so it didn't work because it didn't have any power. I have not installed all the power cords and all the channel cords because I do not have my case yet and just wanted to see if the unit was working to this point.

I moved the the test channel cord to 5 and it came on briefly but then began to flicker and then went out all together. Is this an indication of a bad solder joint? I checked all my joints with a light and magnifying glass and there are all reasonable except some of the triacs joints might be a little iffy.

Do you need power to both sides to run the express test? With just one power cord when I run the test the 16 LED's are barely lite when they chase.

Any ideas are greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Danny