A huge Thanks to Dave for helping to get this tester working. I was having trouble with the wired side of it in that it didn't work, but the wireless did. We changed out the RS485 chip, and immediately the wired side started working. I offer a few tips I hope will help future builders,
1) As the tester starts up on channel 256, the 1/2 way point by design, I recommend for a first time startup to set your controller to start address 256 so you know immediately after you turn it on in wired mode if the tester is working.
2) The wireless takes about 1 to 3 seconds before the LE "sees it".
3) If the tester is shut off in wireless mode, the DMX light on the LE goes out, but the DMX light on the LE mounted EX/RX just freezes.
4) The build video has you solder the EX/RX PIC directly on the board, you can use the socket, it comes in the BOM, and there is enough room to install it.
5) I recommend using the RC Servo wires that RJ had us use for the Aether, according to Dave they will carry enough current. Cut the wire like we did in the Aether (connecting the 2 ends of the connector, and cutting the wire in half), then solder the wire to the PCB, and battery box connectors, then you have a way of disconnecting the battery side of the case from the PCB in case you need to troubleshoot the board. (Guess how I figured that one out?)
6) When marking the case for the cutouts, I recommend mounting the PCB in the case (careful about orientation, it should be opposite of the battery box) and using a pin or needle, push them through the holes in the circuit board for the display, 2 switches, and the rotary encoder, which will mark the case. Then remove the PCB, use a #60 and #70 drill bit to put holes in the case. Then mount those parts in the correct orientation on the outside of the case, and scribe the shape on the case (I used a razor blade, be careful if you do), then remove the parts. You now have an outline to cut out that is very close to the correct size needed. Trim to fit.
7) Talking of marking the case, I also recommend mounting the PCB in the case before building the board and using a scribe or razor blade, mark the inside of the case (at the PCB level) for the cat 5 connector, this will keep you from cutting too deep in the case for the connector. The bottom side is a hit or miss as to depth, trim it shallow, and keep trimming until it fits.
8 ) The switches are open to the top of the case, which leaves them vulnerable to dust, dirt, and liquid contamination, so I took a heavy duty ziplock bag and cut a "cover" for the switches, see photo. I cut the pieces large enough so that when moving the switches the bag was still able to cover the entire switch and the hole in the case. Then use a razor blade or exacto knife and trim out a rectangle that will allow the bag to be a tight fit over the switch, slide the bag over the switch and you're done. Home made contamination resistant switch.
I had the wireless working yesterday, it is awesome and will make checking your setup so much easier, you will now be able to control each individual channel, and verify correct placement of each item. I've got a lot of testing yet to do, but if this first phase is any indication, Dave, Mike, and Charles have made a fantastic tool to help each of us make setup much easier. I Thank them for allowing me to participate in such a cool project, Thanks again,
Bill
