Electrical tape

[zwiller]

Anything inherently wrong with using black electrical tape for soldered joints, splices, or ends?  I tried shrink tubing and I am not a fan.   I suppose I could use vampire plugs but I don't need additional connections.  What's your take?

[inzeos]

Electrical tape tends to degrade quickly over time and make sure to grab the weatherized out door version if that is applicable to your use.

What are you finding about shrink wrap tubing that you do not like?

[zwiller]

The tubing does not seal tightly on its edges when used on a splice and it doesn't work for ends.  Tried using the iron barrel to heat and takes forever.  Used a heat gun and melted the tubing.  It is the Rat Shack variety.  Maybe there is better tubing?

[inzeos]

Tubing has heat ranges that you need to work with it at.  Sounds like you just are not using it at the appropriate temperatures.

You could also try liquid electrical tape, I've heard good things about it; however, have not used it first hand.

[tbone321]

It sounds like you used the wrong sized tubing.  I always get a better seal from shrink tubing then I get from tape and it looks far more professional than electrical tape.  I just use a lighter to shrink it.  It has a reasonable amount of fire resistance so you can put the flame right on it and it shrinks very quickly that way.  Sure, if you keep it in the flame too long it will melt or burn but it is easy to get the time down.  Now remember, I am talking about a lighter, not a torch.  I don't know what you mean by ends.

[smartcontrols]

For wire ends I use heat shrink caps.

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[deanathpc]

I agree with the above...  Trying using a smaller diameter tube first.  We used the stuff in the military a lot and with what that stuff has to go through it has to be good.  If your ends aren't tight enough then you do need a smaller diameter to start.

I've even put on shorter sections of smaller diameter then used a larger diameter to fit where i need then shrink 'em down so it seals everything better.

Dean

[CB]

I typically use heat shrink tubing but I have also noticed problem situations where the tubing didn't work as desired; for those time I aways use the liquid electrical tape which if you look hard you can find it in green as well. 

[dmaccole]

It is the Rat Shack variety.  Maybe there is better tubing?

This may be your problem. I have used RS stuff and it's just not very good.

I always buy the Gardner Bender (Gb) tubing ... it's probably not the cheapest, but I have had wonderful success with it. I have found Gb products at Ace HW and maybe L or HD (can't remember). Also at Orchard HW, but those are only on the West Coast.

As others have said, you need to use the smallest diameter possible.

I don't have a heat gun and use a fire-stick (aka "utility lighter," aka "fireplace lighter") ... I keep the flame away from the tubing and let it warm up slowly.

It does take patience to use heat-shrink tubing correctly, but once you learn, you'll forget where you even keep that electrician's tape.

\dmc

[Rainlover]

There are different kinds of shrink tube and different qualities. The most common is 2:1 shrink tube and for most applications, this works good. I buy some 1/4" stuff here at work that is perfect for spt wire. After you do a few, you get a fell for how far away to hold the heat gun and for how long. There is also 3:1 shrink tube that is great for splicing together wires of different sizes or weatherproofing a connector. It is a lot more expensive, but it works great.
I have also used crimp and seal butt connectors. You crimp them like a regular butt connector and then use a heat gun to seal the ends.

John

[zwiller]

I will try some new heat shrinking tube and those butt joints.  However, I think I figured this out: I wasn't splicing, I was pig tailing my connections!      I don't think the tubing will work for pigtails bent in line.

I will try to properly splice from now on.  This helped: You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login

Also saw a mention of heat shrink tubing with adhesive which is water proof. 

[meman]

That is a good tutorial...I saw it awhile back. 

I had over 80 inline splices to do this year to get the spacing right on some cheap lights I bought. I found the heat shrink tube at Harbor Freight to work great and they have lots of sizes, dirt cheap. I used a heat gun on low setting and got a good seal every time. With SPT1, you can use a  piece of 1/8" tube for each wire and leave them separated it like that, or use a piece of 1/8" on one wire, then slide a piece of 1/4 over both to make a clean looking splice.
If you are splicing wires that also have a thick weatherproof jacket (like I had to), you have to get a good seal on the jacket, while making sure that the soldered splices inside the heat shrink don't touch each other. Building them up with electrical tape is OK if you have just a few, but I tried something new and it worked great.  Little pieces of Tyvek, the white house wrap stuff.. I keeps scraps of it around that I've found a t jobsites. I just put a little strip between the bare wires, fold it over, slide the shrink wrap over the whole thing and seal it all up. The Tyvek is like tough plastic that won't let the rough solder splices rub through and short out like they can with tape sometimes. 

Good Luck,
Mike E.

[NavyGator]

I will try some new heat shrinking tube and those butt joints.  However, I think I figured this out: I wasn't splicing, I was pig tailing my connections!      I don't think the tubing will work for pigtails bent in line.

I will try to properly splice from now on.  This helped: You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login

Also saw a mention of heat shrink tubing with adhesive which is water proof. 

The joining method shown in the link is a rough version of a Western Union Splice. It is just about the best option for joining two solid core wires without solder. For stranded wire if you add solder it makes a great splice and I recommend using it over any other splice if possible.

When it comes to heat shrink, as long as the splice is made correctly heat shrink tubing that is just a bit bigger than the splice should fit perfectly. High ratio heat shrink  is typically used for extreme circumstances and can be a bit more expensive. Heat shrink with adhesive is extremely expensive and is typically used in marine/harsh environments.

My recommendation if weather proofing, UV or durability is a concern is to use 2-3 layers of increasing lengths to heat shrink and forgo the expense of the stuff with adhesive. Also, staggering the splices a bit will create less bulk in the wire around your splices.

Rich

[wwwgator]

  please do not used tyvek as an insulating media.
by design, it passes moisture and if water/rain gets inside it can short the splice. Low voltage- not much of an issue, 110VAC- whole nother story!

The "recommended " way is to isolate each splice by U/L approved shrink tube rated at minimum 150V rating.
 then cover the entire splice with a single piece to provide physical protection.


(ps, I have to recomend the U/L stuff as my License requires me to give you the "NEC approved" way of doing things.)

[zwiller]

I will be doing the soldered Western Union Splice style from now on.  I am sure I will catch on with some practice.  I used the pigtails because I could do them in my sleep.  This will definitely help with the heat shrinking.

I did actually want to know the NEC approved method.  Each splice and over both for protection.  Not that big of a deal.  I have already had someone comment about the electrical inspector showing up at my house.  Can't be too careful.   

What does NEC say for ends or butt joints?

Didn't know the adhesive stuff was expensive.  Forget it then. 

This year my wiring will be MILSPEC!