WTB: LE Heatsink

[kpurcell]

Bought my first LE v5.0 board from another member. Got my parts from mouser and just realized I need either an "offical" heatsink (preferred) or make one up myself. Anyone have 1 spare they would like to sell?

Gotta get this board up and running to get a start playing until the next LE coop.

Ken

[Jeffl]

I would contact RJ for an official heat sink.

If that isn't possible a piece of aluminum that is similar in size and thickness will work.  The only problem is you really need and original to get the hole pattern from.

There very well may be a scientific approach to how he came up with the original but I have used angle aluminum on LOR boards before and it worked just fine.  Of course they just don't look as nice as factory built.

[CaptKirk]

RJ's heat syncs are superior, but it is possible to make one yourself.

you do need at least an "L" shaped reasonably heavy aluminium piece 7" wide with about 2.5"-3" tall and the bottom of the "L" around 1/2" deep (this lets you mount to insulated standoffs to the board).

The hole spacing from side to side for the triac tabs is just the triacs sitting right next to each other so you can just lay those out on your aluminium. You want the triac back to be fully on the aluminum so the row of holes need to allow the heatsync to NOT stick down too far.  The legs of the triacs allow a degree of up and down so the two standoffs from the heatsync to the board just needs to be close enough that the legs reach the board to solder AFTER the triacs are mounted to the heatsync and te heatsync is attached to the board.


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[tbone321]

If your are going make your own heatsink then you really don't need to mount the triac's to the heatsink prior to soldering in the triac's and in many cases it is easier and makes more sense not to.  Since there are no existing holes, it is easy to line up the heatsink with the triac's already soldered to the board and mark it for drilling.

[CaptKirk]

True, but there is a bit more "give" if the holes are not precisely drilled if you wait to let the legs fall where they lay.  I sure needed the "fudge factor" of waiting to AFTER to solder.  Either way will work!