Smart String 2011 COOP - assembly tips, gotchas

[ronniek]

I’m wondering if others are out there like me. I get one or two strings working and think I have it figured out then the next two I build does not work. Am I programming the pics wrong, am I using the wrong order, why is one string working and the other not, why does the string that worked not work when I reprogram it to different channels?

Do I need to reprogram all the strings with the updated firmware on 6-15-11?

Could someone tell me if it matters if I program the pic with a windows vista computer but use a windows 97 computer to program the ssc channel start number and to run vixen?

Is there any order I need to take when programming the ssc channel then testing the string on vixen? I only use one program at a time and have the other closed.

Where should the jumper be when programming the ssc with firmware, on or off or does it matter?

If I forget to move the jumper off before testing it on vixen after setting the channel, do I need to start over or just remove the jumper?

It seems like I have several bad strings from what I have tested for now, still more to test.

Thanks for all the help so for, you guys are awesome.

Ronnie Kelley

[smartcontrols]

A real quick answer, to hope to get you going.

It sounds like the trick you are missing is,
After you start transmitting and the nodes are all flashing white. Remove the program jumper and be sure to power down the SSC (disconnect it from the hub) before you do anything else. That is what locks the configuration data into the SSC.

After a minute you can plug it back in and test it with Vixen or what ever software you are using.

[ronniek]

Thanks, I'll give that a try.

Ronnie

[chrisatpsu]

Could someone tell me if it matters if I program the pic with a windows vista computer but use a windows 97 computer to program the ssc channel start number and to run vixen?

wow, Windows 98 was sooo long ago, that i totally scanned right over that sentence a few time before i realized there wasn't a windows 97.  Unless you count Windows 95 Rev "C"   hehe.  My long term memory must be failing

[hbomb341]

Figured a picture (Even a HORABLE one - from my cell phone) is worth a thousand words - also may help someone on the SSC cases.  Been working on these this last week

Harrison

[dandyman]

Do the end caps get glued-on, or are they just friction fit (so that the SSC's are accessible)?

[jeffcoast]

Do the end caps get glued-on, or are they just friction fit (so that the SSC's are accessible)?

I wouldn't glue them, cause if you need to access the SSC to reprogram the PIC you will have trouble connecting to the header.

[hbomb341]

Do the end caps get glued-on, or are they just friction fit (so that the SSC's are accessible)?

friction fit - they are TIGHT so I have no fear of an issue with this

Do the end caps get glued-on, or are they just friction fit (so that the SSC's are accessible)?

I wouldn't glue them, cause if you need to access the SSC to reprogram the PIC you will have trouble connecting to the header.

Yep - technically you COULD glue one side so the other is still free floating but with how tight they are no reason too.

Harrison

[tbone321]

You might be supprised on what water can get into.  Since most if not all of my SSC's will be hanging, I will be gluing the bottom cap in place and letting the RJ45 wire slide in the lower cap.  The upper cap will be friction fit but the output wire will be siliconed in place.  This way any water that may collect on the joint between the lower cap and the body or running down the output wire cannot get it and if any does, it can weep out from the lower wire.  This also allows me to open the SSC when required and get to the board for any changes that may be needed.  I will also be putting a strain relief on the lower wire above the cap so that it cannot be pulled from the board is something snags the wire.  I may also put a sheet metal screw into the joint between the uper cap and the body so the case cannot be pulled apart for the same reason.

[RJ]

I did not worry about the top. I did put the caps on the bottom and wipe a thin film of clear silicon rtv on the edge of the joint to seal them. You can then still take them off.

Sent from my Charge by Tapatalk

RJ

[Corey872]

Step 16 of the SSC assembly manual seems a bit ambiguous - looks like the picture shows putting the wires through the strain relief, then stripping them?  Using my old hobby knife as a stripper, that would be pretty tedious.  I found it easier to strip the wires, twist and tin the leads, then insert the wire through the strain relief, back down through the solder holes, and finally solder into place.

[rm357]

For the cat5, I just soldered through the insulation and then snipped off the excess. The heat of the solder burned through that insulation with no problem at all. Now on the other end, I had to strip the wires first to get it through the holes...

RM

[taybrynn]

I'll admit I was a bit lost attaching the cat5 to the SSC also.  I ended up trimming very little off the ends and just tinning them with some solder.  It then made them so much each to feed into the tiny SSC holes and then solder in from the other side (with just a little bit of solder).  I had wondered if this was the best way or is this an even better way?  Those holes are really close and I worried a lot about bridging them, but didn't.  I felt like I was operating on stick of gum.